Conditions Report -- September 30, 2009

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Due to the warm temperatures seen in the Cascades this summer the snow which typically covers our countless glaciers has melted, exposing the glacial ice below. To read more about the hazards this presents, particularly on Mt. Rainier click here.

--Mount Baker is now in very icy late season conditions. To access the Football Field and the Black Buttes Camp on the north side of the mountain, climbers must traverse significantly right of the normal approach. Climbers on the Coleman-Deming are traversing far to the right from the top of the Pumice Ridge and are joining the Easton Glacier route on the right side of the Roman Wall.

The Easton Glacier - Photo Taken September 22nd
Photo by Jason Martin

--The Easton Glacier route on the south side of Mount Baker is also quite broken up. Many crevasses currently require belayed crossings to safely surpass. There is exposed gravel in the ice on the Roman Wall.


Climbing on the N. Face of Mt. Baker. Photo (Archived) by Alasdair Turner

--One of our guides, Forest McBrian, recently has a successful climb of the North Ridge of Mt. Baker on Saturday, Sep. 26. He approached via the moraine between the Roosevelt and Coleman glaciers. He accessed the ridge using the left variation. While on the route he was forced to climb 10 ice pitches along the ridge. The final crux was the bergschrund on the top of the route, but he was able to circumvent it to the right. He reported finding bullet-proof ice on much of the route. He also reported significant rockfall on the decent down the Roman Wall.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Crews have closed the road to Artist's Point above the Mt. Baker Ski Area on Tuesday morning due to 4 inches of new snow. The snow level dropped to 4,000 ft this week and more snow is expected this week. To read the full story click here.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

Climbers ascending the V-Notch Couloir. Photo (Archived) by Michael Powers

--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.


RED ROCK CANYON:

--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.


The Eielson Visitor Center. Photo courtesy of Ron Niebrugge (wildnatureimages.com)

--Denali National Park and Preserve experienced its first significant snowfall of the season last week. Accumulation ranged from 2 inches at the Park Headquarters to almost 2 feet at the Eielson Visitor Center. The Denali Park road is still open to private vehicles to the Teklanika River Rest Area at mile 30.

--Forecast for Denali.

--Webcam for Denali National Park.