Conditions Report -- September 30, 2009

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Due to the warm temperatures seen in the Cascades this summer the snow which typically covers our countless glaciers has melted, exposing the glacial ice below. To read more about the hazards this presents, particularly on Mt. Rainier click here.

--Mount Baker is now in very icy late season conditions. To access the Football Field and the Black Buttes Camp on the north side of the mountain, climbers must traverse significantly right of the normal approach. Climbers on the Coleman-Deming are traversing far to the right from the top of the Pumice Ridge and are joining the Easton Glacier route on the right side of the Roman Wall.

The Easton Glacier - Photo Taken September 22nd
Photo by Jason Martin

--The Easton Glacier route on the south side of Mount Baker is also quite broken up. Many crevasses currently require belayed crossings to safely surpass. There is exposed gravel in the ice on the Roman Wall.

Climbing on the N. Face of Mt. Baker. Photo (Archived) by Alasdair Turner

--One of our guides, Forest McBrian, recently has a successful climb of the North Ridge of Mt. Baker on Saturday, Sep. 26. He approached via the moraine between the Roosevelt and Coleman glaciers. He accessed the ridge using the left variation. While on the route he was forced to climb 10 ice pitches along the ridge. The final crux was the bergschrund on the top of the route, but he was able to circumvent it to the right. He reported finding bullet-proof ice on much of the route. He also reported significant rockfall on the decent down the Roman Wall.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Crews have closed the road to Artist's Point above the Mt. Baker Ski Area on Tuesday morning due to 4 inches of new snow. The snow level dropped to 4,000 ft this week and more snow is expected this week. To read the full story click here.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

Climbers ascending the V-Notch Couloir. Photo (Archived) by Michael Powers

--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

RED ROCK CANYON:

--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.

The Eielson Visitor Center. Photo courtesy of Ron Niebrugge (wildnatureimages.com)

--Denali National Park and Preserve experienced its first significant snowfall of the season last week. Accumulation ranged from 2 inches at the Park Headquarters to almost 2 feet at the Eielson Visitor Center. The Denali Park road is still open to private vehicles to the Teklanika River Rest Area at mile 30.

--Forecast for Denali.

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

Blake Herrington Slide Show in Bellingham

Bellingham local and Northwest hardman, Blake Herrington, just emailed us to let us know that he will be doing a slideshow on his many adventures at Backcountry Essentials in Bellingham on October 1st. It should be a lot of fun!

Click on Poster to Enlarge

Aid Climbing Tips - Using Two Aiders

Some time ago, we ran an article on basic aid climbing technique. We introduced aid climbing with a little breakdown of what it is all about and with a couple of videos. Today, however, we would like to present a short video on refining aid movement.

Chris McNamara, guidebook author and manager of supertopo.com, has put together a nice series of videos on aid climbing. Following is a short video on using two aiders instead of four:



To see our original post on aid climbing, click here.

To see other Chris McNamara videos on aid climbing, click here.

To read about the American Alpine Institute's new aid climbing course, click here.

--Jason D. Martin

American Alpine Institute - Alpinism 1

Last week I taught a Alpinism 1 course for American Alpine Institute. It was a great trip with good weather almost every day except the summit day. In this course we start out teaching the skills needed to climb the mountain, and then on the final day we make an attempt at the summit.

Teaching basic mountaineering skills at the base of the Colman Glacier on Mt. Baker.

The Colman Glacier is a huge glacier and perfect for teaching glacier mountaineering skills.

One of our climbers enjoying the weather and figuring out how to use an ice axe.

Angela leads a rope team through some crevasses for a little practice.

Hiking back to camp.

Jack

Stephen

Angela

Seng

Our complete group practicing working as a rope team.

Practicing snow skills.

A two person rope team crevasse fall is a serious thing. Here we allowed each person to catch a fall and fall in a real crevasse. The two extra ropes in the photo are back up lines in case the fall is not stopped.

A perfectly executed self arrest.

The guides. Me, Angela and Richard.

Baker looking very pretty.

Group photo.

Our headlamps lighting up the fog on our summit attempt. As you can see the weather was not cooperating, and very strong winds were causing a huge lenticular cloud to cover the summit. Due to the strong winds and low visibility we turned the group around at about 9,000ft.

Angela at our high point.

Descending out of the clouds

Negotiating crevasses on the way back down from our high point.

Working our way down.

Crossing a snow bridge.

A nearby crevasse with the Canadian part of the North Cascades in the background.

The second rope team making their way down.

The lenticular cloud sitting over the summit.

--Alasdair Turner, AAI Instructor and Guide

September and October Climbing Events

--September 30 -- Golden, CO --Pictures From Space, Taken from the Camera of the Late Bradford Washburn

--September 30 -- Seattle, WA --Colin Haley Slideshow

--September 30 -- Grand Junction, CO --Sir Chris Bonington, "I Choose to Climb"

--October 1 -- Bellingham, WA -- Climbing Across the Hemisphere: Storms and Success in Patagonia and Alaska

For anyone who likes climbing mountains. Join WWU Alumni and Bellingham native Blake Herrington for a night of photos, video, and sotries from climbing expeditions to Alaska and Argentina. The event will be held at Backcountry Essentials. There will be a $3 suggested donation to the Access Fund, and will be lots of free gear given out. For more information, please contact Blake at blakeherrington at gmail.com

--October 1 -- Indian Creek, UT --International Climbers' Meet

--October 1 -- Atlanta, GA --AAC and High Country Present Dr. Kenneth Kamler, 1996 Everest Disaster Slideshow

--October 2-4 -- Clifton, ME --1st Annual Clifton Climber's Weekend Service Project

--October 3 -- Horsetooth Resevior, CO --14th Annual Horsetooth Hang

--October 3 -- Coopers Rock State Forest, WV --Coopers Rock Adopt a Crag

--October 3 -- City of Rocks, ID --Moondance at the City of Rocks

--October 3 -- Dallas, TX --ABS Regional Competition

--October 3 -- Bear Valley, CA --4th Annual Bear Valley Boulder Bash

--October 7 -- Seattle, WA -- AAI Guide Dawn Glanc: Slideshow, Presentation, and Door Prizes

Meet AAI Guide Dawn Glanc, Mountain Hardwear Athlete and AMGA guide. Dawn will be presenting a slideshow and discussing her various climbing adventures and accomplishments. Learn about the "Big Expedition for Cancer Research and win door prizes! The event will be held at Mountain Hardwear, 250 Pine Street, Seattle, WA. For information, please contact AAI (info at aai.cc or (360)-671-1505), or call Mountain Hardwear at (260)-441-2639.

--October 9-11 -- Salt Lake City, UT --Craggin' Classic 2009

--October 9 -- Slade, KY --Rocktoberfest

--October 18 -- Estes Park, CO --Lumpy Ridge Trail Day

--October 19 -- Birdsboro, PA --3rd Annual Clean and Climb at Bridsboro Quarry

--October 23-25 -- Joshua Tree, CA --Climb Smart 2009

--October 24 -- Chapel Hill, NC --2009 Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 26 -- Golden, CO --Celebrate Eldo: Ace And AAC Book Release Party

Autumn Rolls In...

Autumn started last week with a heat wave. High freezing levels and cloudless skies brought the temps up and the climbers out. Plenty of guided parties and independent climbers summitted last week. As the snow continues to melt, interesting objects around the mountain have been appearing. Climbing Ranger Cliff came upon some old aviation wreckage on his patrol last week.

The conditions are still okay for late September. Approaches to the standard routes (Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons/Winthrop) are icy and have crevasses, but are definitely passable. Wintry weather can change climbing conditions quickly. The National Weather Service forecast read "The first storm of Autumn will begin to affect the region late Monday with cool and damp weather lingering through most of the week." Hopefully a week of stormy weather will bring decent skiing conditions.

Sunday, September 27th is the last day the Climbing Information Center will be open for the 2009 season. Self-Registration in Paradise will be open through the winter.

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Time for another dose of the stoke...enjoy, have fun, and be safe out there!

Flightseeing the North Cascades

AAI Backpacking Guide Jeff Reis has been behind a number of our aerial photo blogs. Jeff is a private pilot who gets out in his little plane with a camera quite often. Recently he invited me to join him on a tour of the Cascades...

Our flightseeing tour took us over Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, the Pickets, Cascade Pass and part of the Ptarmigan Traverse. It was an awesome experience to see so many remote peaks by plane in such a short time. The following photo essay details some of the trip's visual highlights!

Note that the pictures may be enlarged by clicking on them.

The Easton Glacier on Mount Baker
Due to the warm summer, this glacier is far more broken than normal.
Many parties are finding that they must belay across numerous crevasses.

A close-up of the icefall between the Easton and the Deming Glaciers.

Mount Baker's Boulder Glacier is in late season conditions.
Any ascent of this route this late in the season will require ice climbing skills.

The Twin Sister Range
The peak in the center of the picture is the South Twin and the peak on the right is the North Twin. In 1995 I made the first recorded winter ascent of the Northwest Face of the South Twin.

Mount Shuksan's Sulphide and Crystal Glaciers

The top of the Sulphide Glacier and the Summit Pyramid of Mount Shuksan
It's hard to see in this photo, but during the flight we were able to spot a few ski tracks on the Sulphide.

Icefalls on the Sulphide -- The climbing route avoids this mess.

Mount Challenger in the Northern Pickets
Mount Challenger is arguably the most easily accessible peak in the Pickets.
However, it still takes most parties four to five days to climb.

This is arguably one of the most remote places in the Cascades. The peaks pictured above are in the Southern Pickets. From left to right we are looking at the McMillian Spires, Inspiration Peak, Mount Degenhardt and Mount Terror. AAI Guide Alan Kearney recently wrote an excellent article about his 35 year obsession with the McMillian Spires. To read it, click here.

The Northwest Face of Forbidden Peak with Boston Peak in the Background
Note the ice patch just left of center. This is where the ice climbing on the Northwest Face/North Ridge of Forbidden Peak may be found. AAI Guide Mike Pond recently found five pitches of steep ice on this feature.

Eldorado Peak and the Inspiration Glacier with Mount Baker in the Background
The Inspiration Glacier along with the McAllister and the Klawatti Glaciers make up one of the largest non-volcanic glacier systems in the state.

The Torment-Forbidden Traverse
Mount Torment is the peak on the left end of the ridge.
The respected climbing guide and writer, Craig Luebben was killed in an icefall accident
on Mount Torment earlier this summer.

The top of the Sahale Arm, Sahale Peak's summit and Boston Peak.
If you look carefully, it's possible to see the Forbidden Glacier and the North Ridge of Forbidden in the background.

It is clear that there is not much snow left in the Cascades. We did get a dusting late last week and you can see the remnants of that in some of these pictures. The glaciers don't look as dirty or as gray as they did prior to the snowfall...but other than that, this is one of the driest times of the year. As such, it is really interesting to look at an array of peaks throughout the range...!

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- September 24, 2009

Northwest:

Former Mount Rainier Head Ranger Mike Gauthier

--You know you've become famous when they're talking about you on the Senate Floor. Former Mt. Rainier head climbing ranger Mike Gauthier's name came up when talking about this year's wildfires. While the following transcript isn't that cool, the fact that Mike's name is in it is. To read the transcript, click here. To see Mike's correspondence with the climbing community about it, click here.

--This weekend will be the annual Cascade Climbers Fall Rope-Up. Cascadeclimbers.com is the popular climbing website for the Pacific Northwest. Those who are interested in attending this weekend's event in Leavenworth should click here to learn more.

--The sixth issue of the Northwest Mountaineering Journal was recently released online. The feature story in the journal was written by AAI Guide Alan Kearney and details his 35 year obsession with the McMillian Spires. To view the journal, click here.

Sierra:

--Troy Kellenberger isn't your ordinary Yosemite hiker. Last Saturday, the 19-year-old Fresno City College student hiked to the top of Half Dome, El Capitan and Glacier Point -- all in one day. There's a reason this butt-kicker of a hike -- called the Yosemite Triple Crown -- is seldom done. It's 43 miles long and requires 24,000 feet of elevation change (12,000 going up, 12,000 down). Most amazingly, Kellenberger finished the linkup in 14 hours, 53 minutes. To read more, click here.

The Mojave Desert:


--A man claiming that he was paying tribute to dead golfers tossed up to 3,000 golf balls into the biggest sand trap he could find -- Joshua Tree National Park. But where 57-year old Douglas Jones saw commemoration, park rangers saw wholesale littering. He now faces possible jail time and other sanctions. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--A 39-year-old Canadian backpacker who fractured his spine and arm in a 20-foot fall in Denali National Park set a stand of trees on fire after deciding it was his only hope for rescue. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A climber who fell 15 feet from a rock formation near Boulder Falls on Thursday morning died en route to a Denver-area hospital, the Boulder County Sheriff's Office said. A Colorado Department of Transportation worker found the fallen climber around 11:30 a.m. at the 34-mile marker of Boulder Canyon at the Cob Rock formation, authorities said. To read more, click here.

--Rock and Ice magazine puts it best, "the most difficult mountain on Earth now sports a ski run." Yes, that's right, Dave Watson recently became the first person in history to ski down K2. Due to the weather, Watson was unable to ski from the summit, but did make a challenging descent from the bottleneck. To read more, click here.

The Terrifying North Face of the Eiger

--Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli completed the first free ascent of the Japanese Direct on the north face of the Eiger this summer. This line required the team to climb up to 5.13b and M5. To read more, click here.

--Brett Nelson and Phil Gruber recently completed a new free line up the Diamond on Colorado's most well known piece of rock, Longs Peak. Their line link clocked in at 5.12 with six pitches that required climbing of 5.11 or harder at altitude. To read more, click here.

--Landon Wiedenmann and Paul Rachele recently completed a difficult new mixed rock and ice climb on the North Face of the Enclosure on the Grand Teton. The new route is a four pitch variation on the Visionquest Couloir. To read more, click here.

--Visits to National Parks are on track to hit 280 million for only the third time since 1989. Visitation to 360 sites managed by the National Park System hit 207 million for the first eight months of the yar, putting the 280 million mark within reach. To read more, click here.

The Start of a Grand Adventure - Day One

"I'm going to climb the Grand!" I practically screamed into the phone. "Iowa" was not as happy that I was going to be gone but she was happy that I was finally happy. It had not been a sure thing. "Busterman" was good with his time away from home but I was worried things would fall apart with people covering for me at my jobs. The time of departure was getting closer and things came together and

A Weekend of Debauchery

It was to be a one-day assault on the 'Gunks. Saturday called for beautiful sun and Sunday called for rain. There was a hint of flirtation in the air and enough childish innocence amongst the gathering of thirty somethings to make gizzard blush. But we weren't there for anything but the climbing...or were we?- "Caboose": So "Blow"'s at a bachelor party down at Foxwoods.- "Ratherbe": Is he going

Guidebook: Gunks - Double Crack

Double Crack (5.8) - Two Pitches (recommended) - Trad - Mixed AnchorsApproach: Take the fifth trail up to the left after the overhanging, roof-like Andrew Boulder (about a 10-min walk down the Carriage Trail after the Uberfall area). At the top, head right and up hill to an arrete that has a low roof on the left and an obvious vertical crack system on the right face.Pitch One (5.8) - 75 feet -

The First Time

Well, I've been injured much of the past few weeks, so I thought I'd give you guys something to read. Sorry for the delay, but I can't write much about climbing when I'm strapped into a boot that's meant to keep my ankle from twisting. I am hoping to get out this weekend if only to remember what rock feels like again. In the meantime, here is a short fiction story that I wrote last week...He

Conditions Report -- September 23, 2009

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

Colchuck Peak on September 18th
Photo by John

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Due to the warm temperatures seen in the Cascades this summer the snow which typically covers our countless glaciers has melted, exposing the glacial ice below. To read more about the hazards this presents, particularly on Mt. Rainier click here.

--Mount Baker is now in very icy late season conditions. To access the Foot ball Field and the Black Buttes Camp on the north side of the mountain, climbers must traverse significantly right of the normal approach. Climbers on the Coleman-Deming are traversing far to the right from the top of the Pumice Ridge and are joining the Easton Glacier route on the right side of the Roman Wall.

The Easton Glacier - Photo Taken September 22nd
Photo by Jason Martin

--The Easton Glacier route on the south side of Mount Baker is also quite broken up. Many crevasses currently require belayed crossings to safely surpass. There is exposed gravel in the ice on the Roman Wall.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

--This soloist has been trying to link up all the peaks in the Enchantments. His pictures of the area are excellent.

Note--AAI Guide Jason Martin took a flight tour with Backpacking Guide Jeff Reis on Tuesday. They surveyed Mount Baker, the Pickets, Cascade Pass and Mount Shuksan. His photos will be posted on Friday.

SIERRA:

--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

--This party made a first ascent of the North Face of Mount Langley. This party climbed North Peak.

RED ROCK CANYON:

--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.

--Forecast for Denali.

--Webcam for Denali National Park.