Golden Eagle Nest Work

AAI Guide Alasdair Turner just returned from an incredibly unusual trip. Alasdair was hired to do the rope work for a study on golden eagles. Following is a blog he originally posted on his personal blog last month...
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I just got back from a week of working with WA Dept of Fish and Wildlife. The work was some of the more interesting that I have done this summer. I spent the week collecting prey remains from from golden eagle nests in an attempt to identify what the eagles are eating. Eagles will put their nests on cliff faces often in caves to protect them from the weather. Getting to many of these nests was pretty challenging and each presented a unique problem. Some nests have no overhead anchors and very loose rock making for difficult climbing conditions. Once at each nest I would collect any pellets and any remains of prey that were in the nest.

Me sitting in a particularly challenging nest.

I found all sorts of animal parts in the nests including deer faun legs, coyote skulls, lots of marmot skulls, game bird legs, raptor skull, and snake parts. From a non-biologist perspective it appears that eagles will eat anything available and are pretty good hunters.

One of the last nests we did still had a chick in it. Soon after this photo was shot the bird fledged and made a remarkably graceful first flight out of the nest and down to the valley below.


The bird was captured, banded and fitted with a GPS tracking device.

Banding the bird. This is the business end of an eagle. The talons are the main danger in dealing with eagles.

Adding the band.

The eagle with the GPS tracker.

And a couple of eagle portraits.


The eagle then had to be returned to the nest. This involved wading across a creek, hiking up a hill, climbing down to the nest and putting the bird in.

In this photo I am standing in the nest so I can put the bird back. After grabbing the bird I put it in the nest and quickly climbed out. The bird stayed and we left. (WDFW photo)

--Alasdair Turner, Instructor and Guide

The Mountaineer's Rest Step

When I first started mountaineering it became clear to me that there were two things I needed to be successful. And no, I'm not talking about a lighter ice axe or more breathable clothing.

Nope. What I need were legs and lungs.

I realized that I needed to be able to walk uphill forever. And I realized that I needed to be able to breathe while I walked uphill forever.

The problem is that nobody can really walk uphill forever. Going up into the sky on a snowy peak really works the quads. Tired quads, plus walking uphill early in the morning, plus altitude, equals tired lungs.

There is a simplistic trick that can help you to preserve both your legs and your lungs. The Mountaineer's Rest Step is a technique that slows you down a bit -- which helps you keep your breath -- and allows you a micro-rest on every step. In the simplest terms, all that you have to do is lock your knee on every step. Locking your knee allows your body to rest on your skeletal system instead of on your muscles.

The Rest Step definitely slows you down. Some might say that this is far from ideal when trying to cover a lot of ground, but the reality is that slow and steady wins the race. It's always better to go slower and take less breaks than to go fast and have to stop a lot.

The Rest Step is a key mountaineering technique. On long summit days it doesn't get any better than taking a mini-rest with every step.

--Jason D. Martin

September and October Climbing Events

-- Sept 2 -- Aspen, CO -- Deep Water Solo Film Showing

--Sept 12 -- Bishop, CA --John Cyril Fischer Celebration

-- Sept 16 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- HERA Foundation Climb4Life

-- Sept 18 -- Pocatello, ID -- Pocatello Pump, Idaho State University

-- Sept 19-20 -- Bidsboro, PA -- 3rd Annual Clean and Climb

-- Sept 19 -- Index, WA -- WCC Index Purchase Celebration

-- Sept 25 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Adopt-a-Crag American Fork

-- Sept 25 -- Indian Creek, UT -- SushiFest

-- Oct 2 -- Boone, NC -- Trip Crown Bouldering Comp

-- Oct 7-9 -- Seattle, WA -- Mountainfilm Tour

-- Oct 8-10 -- Red River Gorge, KY -- Rocktoberfest 2010

-- Oct 8-10 -- San Luis Obispo, CA -- Pine Mountain Pull Down

-- Oct 10-12 -- Golden, CO -- Craggin Classic

-- Oct 14 -- San Diego, CA -- Allied Climbers Annual Fundraiser

--Oct 24-26 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- ClimbSmart

--Oct 24-26 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Warrior's Way SPORT Camp

--Oct 29-Nov -- Southwest various locations -- Chris Sharma Slideshow Tour

--Oct 30-Nov -- Banff, Canada -- Banff Mountian Film Fest

--Oct 30-Nov 7 -- Italy -- International Mountain Summit Festival

Autumn is Coming...

As we push into late August the first signs of fall are starting to show themselves. Returning clouds, crisp days leading to cold nights, and fewer climbers are a familiar scene this time of year. We actually had some snowflakes fall on rangers the past couple of days, but the report from Muir today was of sunny skies, gentle breezes, and cool fall temperatures.

September is still a great month to climb, one of my favorites actually. Although the weather can be variable, it is still very pleasant for the most part. Climbing in September can also lead to a lot more solitude on a mountain where that is sometimes hard to find. Routes like the Emmons and the Kautz, which can be extremely busy during mid-summer, turn into full-on wilderness experiences in September. Something very notable about this year that is different from previous ones is that the routes still have a lot more snow on them than normally would be present in late August. This means instead of climbing glacial skeleton and having to wind around what may seem like endless fields of huge crevasses to reach the summit, climbers are treated to what can only be described as excellent climbing!

There are a few changes coming in the next couple of weeks of which climbers should be aware. One is that the ranger stations where you register to climb will no longer be open on their summer hours. After Labor Day the Longmire WIC, White River WIC and the Climbing Information Center will all still be open but on a more limited basis. Stay tuned for the exact hours,which we will be posting as we get confirmation on the schedules. Climbing rangers will be around throughout September, but on a more limited basis. So make sure to get your urgent questions answered by a ranger when you register.

Come on out and enjoy this next season change on Rainier. There is still a lot of climbing to be done, and watching the leaves change color from 14,000' is a pretty spectacular sight!

Cover Photo Contest!

The American Alpine Institute is currently looking for a photo to be featured on the cover of our upcoming 2011 catalog. We would like a photo that signifies what the American Alpine Institute is all about; namely working, teaching, and playing in the beautiful mountain ranges around the world. This is a chance for you to show off your artistic side and submit a few photos to be considered for our catalog cover. We are really leaving it up to you to decide what you would like to see on the cover! Runners up will be used on the inside.


What’s in it for you? Well, besides the opportunity for the fame and glory that comes with photo credit in a very public and widely distributed place, the winner will receive a $200 credit on any of our programs or on gear at the Equipment Shop at AAI. The top six shots for the inside will receive $25 credit each. Please submit your photos no later than September 10th.

Email your photos with your name and where the shot was taken to: andrew@aai.cc

Please submit photos that are no larger than 4mb, however if your photo is selected, we will need a full size copy that can be printed at 300 dpi. Essentially, the photo would need to be more than 8.2 Mega pixels (3350x2382) and could be printed at 300 dpi at a size of 8.5" x 11". Smaller sizes are OK for inside the catalog.

We look forward to seeing your stunning mountain photography soon. Best of luck!

-Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 8/26/10

Northwest:

--Search and Rescue crews have now covered the entire length of the Boise Creek Trail near Squamish, where missing hiker Tyler Wright was last seen, with no sign of him. It’s been 12 days since the 35-year-old Vancouver resident took off for a 50-kilometre hike starting 35 kilometres up the MacMillan Bloedel Forest Service Road on route to Pitt Lake, Coquitlam Lake or Indian Arm. To read more, click here and here.

--The Clackamas County Sheriff's Search and Rescue team will ascend Mount Hood in the near future to recover human remains that may be those of a Longview climber who died there in December. Clackamas County Sheriff's spokesman Jim Strovink said Monday the remains have not been positively identified, but the family of Anthony Vietti of Longview believes they could be his. Vietti, 25, climbed Mount Hood Dec. 11 with two friends, Katie Nolan and Luke Gulberg. They reached the summit but didn't return. Gulberg, 26, of Des Moines, Wash., was found dead of hypothermia the next day. No trace was found of Vietti or Nolan, 29, of Portland. To read more, click here and here.

--A husband and wife were rescued on Friday about 1,000 feet below the Mt. Adams summit, a point they reached only to get stuck late Thursday on their way down when terrain turned icy, authorities said. At about 10:42 p.m., crews were called on to rescue the husband and wife who were stranded by bad weather and dealing with medical complications, according to emergency police scanners monitored at The Columbian. A search and rescue official said Thursday night the twosome was poorly equipped, cold and likely dehydrated. To read more, click here.

President Obama
Photo by Alasdair Turner


--AAI guide and photographer Alasdair Turner had an interesting assignment last week. Through a series of fortunate events, he was hired by the Washington State Democratic Party to photograph President Obama when he visited Seattle. To see a photo essay of Alasdair's work, click here.

Sierra:

--A hiker in the Horsehoe Lake are above Mammoth made a grim discovery over the weekend. The Mono Sheriff's Office reports that a hiker on the trail that circles around Horseshoe Lake came across the body of 78-year-old Real Balthazar of Mammoth Lakes. The Sheriff's Department said that the hiker found Mr. Balthazar lying in the middle of the trail. When Mr. Balthazar did not respond, the hhiker returned to his vehicle and called 911. The man also let Forest Service personnel in the area know of the incident. To read more, click here.

--The iconic Sierra climber Peter Croft and Matt Ciancio recently linked four major lines on the Incredible Hulk, a 1,200 foot granite peak in the Sierras, in a day. The speed of their ascent is amazing and is even more amazing when you consider that the approach takes a half a day. To read more, click here.

--From the Boston Globe to the New York Times, ABC, NBC, CBS and the Animal Planet - Steve Searles of Mammoth Lakes tops celebrity status with his unique brand of bear management. In his home town, it's not that simple. A recent Mammoth Wildlife Committee meeting once more revealed the schisms in agency perception of bear control. Mammoth Mayor Skip Harvey, who sits on the committee, has hope that all parties will find ways to work around each other's requirements. Mammoth politicians acknowledge Searles, who claims large popular support in town. At this week's Wildife Committee meeting, Fish and Game's Tim Taylor talked about bear population studies. Taylor did not give up information about Fish and Game's past destruction of bears, as requested. To read more, click here.

--Two rock climbers, trapped by the El Monte fire near El Capitan Reservoir east of Lakeside, California, were rescued by a helicopter that could not land at their location, but hovered close enough that the climbers could step into the helicopter. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--A tip from an observant forest ranger led to the arrest of an Arizona prison escapee and his alleged accomplice who had been on the run since last month, authorities said late Thursday. John McCluskey and Casslyn Mae Welch were arrested at a campground on the edge of Apache and Sitgreaves National Forests in Springerville, Arizona, according to U.S. Marshal David Gonzales. To read more, click here.

--Two people were hospitalized in critical condition Wednesday after an early-morning motorcycle crash in Joshua Tree National Park, a California Highway Patrol spokesman said. The crash on Keys View Road just north of Juniper Flats Road was reported to the highway patrol about 3:15 a.m., according to a CHP dispatch system. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--Colin Haily and Mike Schaefer recently completed an amazing Alaskan traverse. The pair linked every peak in the Devil's Thumb massif, including the summits of the Witches Tits, Cat's Ears Spires, and the Devil's Thumb itself. To read more, click here.

The Moose's Tooth Massif peaking through the Clouds
Photo by Jason Martin


--In mid-May Renan Ozturk, Zack Smith and Freddie Wilkinson attempted to complete a traverse of the entire Moose's Tooth massif. They completed a new route on the south face of the Moose's Tooth, but ultimately failed in their traverse. To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

--On the soft snow above Everest Base Camp at 17,400 feet, Chad Kellogg is trudging uphill in trail-running shoes. Attempting to reach the summit of the world's highest mountain alone, without oxygen, and in record time, Kellogg is on a mission both physical and intensely personal. But it's not going well. Abnormally high temperatures this spring afternoon have turned the snow to slush, and for every step he takes forward, Kellogg is sliding half a step back. Most of the 140 climbers attempting the summit had left in the crisp early morning, wearing heavy plastic climbing boots with crampons. But if Kellogg was going to beat the speed record, he needed to avoid the crowds and go it alone. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A man who was found dead this afternoon about a quarter-mile up Red Rock Trail at Settlers Park in west Boulder likely committed suicide, according to Boulder County sheriff's officials. Cmdr. Rick Brough said the man, 43, likely died from a self-inflicted gunshot wound. The victim's name was not immediately released. Boulder County sheriff's deputies and Rocky Mountain Rescue volunteers were still at the scene about 5 p.m, and had closed the trail. To read more, click here.

--An experienced climber and Boulder water rights lawyer was seriously injured in the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area west of Brainard Lake on Saturday morning and rescued via helicopter after a lengthy search of the area. Glenn Porzak, 64, was flown to St. Anthony's Central Hospital in Denver. He was in the surgical intensive care unit on Sunday, but the hospital would not provide information on his condition. To read more, click here.

--Rescuers last week brought a 17-year-old climber to safety off Huntington Ravine on New Hampshire's Mount Washington.Fish and Game Department officials said Sean McCarthy, of Exeter, N.H., was rock climbing in the Central Gulley of Huntington Ravine on Thursday morning when he fell. He came to rest about two-thirds of the way up the headwall and is believed to be seriously injured, officials said. To read more, click here.

--By this time, everybody and their grandmother knows the Aron Ralston story. That is the story of the young man who got his arm pinned behind a boulder in the Canyonlands and was forced to cut it off with a pocket knife. And perhaps some of you were aware that the academy award winning director Danny Boyle of Slumdog Millionaire fame was directing actor James Franco in a screen version of it. But I bet you didn't know that James Franco made an appearance at AAI Guide Kurt Hick's wedding last week. Yup, the actor is going out with Kurt's wife's sister...so take that Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon. In any case, the trailer to the new film can be viewed below:



--Chad Kellogg and Dylan Johnson recently abandoned plans to climb All Along the Watchtower, a famous Grade VI on the west face of North Howser Tower in the Bugaboos of British Columbia to pluck a new line out nearby. The Simulator (5.11 C2, 19 pitches, 3,000') climbs the Southwest face of the peak. To read more, click here.

--The national parks’ history is full of examples of misguided visitors feeding bears, putting children on buffalos for photos and dipping into geysers despite signs warning of scalding temperatures. But today, as an ever more wired and interconnected public visits the parks in rising numbers — July was a record month for visitors at Yellowstone — rangers say that technology often figures into such mishaps. People with cellphones call rangers from mountaintops to request refreshments or a guide; in Jackson Hole, Wyo., one lost hiker even asked for hot chocolate. A French teenager was injured after plunging 75 feet this month from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon when he backed up while taking pictures. And last fall, a group of hikers in the canyon called in rescue helicopters three times by pressing the emergency button on their satellite location device. When rangers arrived the second time, the hikers explained that their water supply “tasted salty.” To read more, click here.

Missing Day Hiker Walks into Toklat Road Camp

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:

At approximately 12:30 p.m. today, John MacGregor of Jasper, Georgia, the object of an intensive search effort, walked into the Toklat Road Camp with some hikers he had encountered earlier in the day. He was cold and tired, but uninjured. The road camp is located at Mile 53 on the Denali Park Road. It is a seasonal housing facility for approximately 40 people.

The employees at the camp will warm him up, get him something to eat, and then transport him to park headquarters. He is expected to arrive there by late afternoon. Rangers working on the search will interview MacGregor to find out what took place since he left the Eielson Visitor Center Sunday morning.

The National Park Service wishes to thank everyone who contributed their efforts to this search.

Search Underway in Denali National Park for Missing Day Hiker

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:

An aerial search of routes and trails in the vicinity of the Eielson Visitor Center is underway for missing day hiker John MacGregor, 54 of Jasper, Georgia. On Sunday, August 22, MacGregor took a parkconcessioner-operated shuttle bus that departed the Wilderness Access Center at 6:15 a.m., bound for the Eielson Visitor Center, which is located at Mile 66 on the park road. He was seen at the Visitor Center that morning, heading north up the Alpine trail towards the Thorofare Ridge.

The Alaska State Troopers notified the National Park Service on Monday, August 23 that MacGregor had not arrived at a Fairbanks hotel on Sunday as he had planned and had not appeared for a meeting on Monday. His car was located in the Wilderness Access Center parking lot, and an investigation is ongoing.

John McGregor

The air search will continue until dark today. Plans are being made to dispatch ground teams to search trails and likely routes near the point last seen.

MacGregor is in good health, and an experienced hiker. He weights 150 pounds, has brown hair, and brown eyes. Anyone who may have seen him in the park is asked to call the National Park Service emergency dispatch center at (907) 683-9555.

Conditions Report - August 25 2010

NORTHWEST:


The Price Glacier. Photo Jiri Richter.

--It's not often we see TR's for this route. You probably won't see one for three years so better read it now. Check out this trip report for the Price Glacier on Shuksan. Another TR for Shuksan can be found here, via the Sulphide Glacier.

--A Bugaboos report from Public Mountain Conditions Report:Getting into East Creek from the Pigeon Howser Col is still pretty straight forward with mostly snow on the upper half and quite a bit of exposed ice on the lower half of the glacier. We managed to get around without crampons but only because we were not experiencing strong overnight freezes due to the thick smoke and warm temperatures. There has been quite a bit of recent ice and rock-fall from the South Howser Tower on the skiers right side of the glacier as you get closer to the Minaret and East Creek camp. If you are heading to the west face of the North Howser Tower, the glacier below the rappels from the Howser Bivy Boulder is still mostly snow covered and easier travel than it often is this time of year. It is still a very steep slope that is very exposed to rock-fall from the glacier below the Central Howser and can be difficult to manage if frozen.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

-- Here is a report from AAI Lead Guide Ian McEleney for Venusian Blind:

Photo Credit Ian McEleney.

"Cynthia and I met up and did a quick gear check in Bishop before driving down to the trailhead outside Big Pine. We've climbed together before, so Cynthia had all of her gear and food and gear check went quickly. The first part of the hike in to Second Lake is pretty sunny, but there was a nice breeze to keep us cool. After a mile and a half the trail starts following a creek and we saw lots of great wildflowers, including Leopard Lily and Monkshood. We arrived at Second Lake with time to enjoy the views of the arete, the surrounding peaks, and the lovely lake itself.

The next morning we woke early and made quick work of the talus approach to the route. The first few hundred feet of the route take one up mixed third and fourth class terrain and into the sun. At a suitable ledge we roped up and started pitching out the 5th class climbing. Almost every pitch has some cool 5.6 to 5.7 climbing. The movement is varied with excellent crack, face, and friction climbing. The exposure is ever present but not overwhelming. The first 3/4 of the route are relatively straightforward. Near the top the route gets horizontal and passes through some towers and notches. This terrain is complicated, but Cynthia's climbing experience let us keep our momentum to the top.

The descent is scrambling with one rappel. After the rappel, the standard Sierra talus hike took us back to camp, where we could soak our tired feet in the lake."


--A great Whitney report can be found here, Mountaineers Route beta solo. Remember sox and your car keys!

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.


ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.


RED ROCK CANYON:


--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

-- Some campgrounds will close for the summer season. See here for more info.


--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

ALASKA RANGE:

--
For the most current updates on Alaska, please see our Dispatch Blog.

--Forecast for Dena
li.


The Piton

We don't really use pitons very much anymore. Some climbers will use them on mixed mountain routes and other will use them for high end aid climbing, but even in these venues pins are certainly less used than in the past.

Why?

There are two reasons. First, modern clean climbing equipment like nuts and cams have replaced the widespread need for pins. And second, modern pitons tend to damage the rock. Every pin placement subtly changes things until you have very well-defined pin scars.

The Canadian guide Mike Barter has put together a very nice video on pitons and piton placement. Check it out below:



There are two notes that I'd like to make about Mike's cleaning method.

First, some climbers will use a "cleaner carabiner" that they clip to the pin while pounding on it. This is then attached to the climber. This is so that the pin is not dropped while taking it out. The cleaner carabiner is commonly a very old and very beat-up carabiner. It's important that it is not a carabiner that you will be climbing on, as it will likely be struck by the hammer when the pin is being cleaned.

And second, Mike clips two quick draws together to pull the pin out. While this is fine for an occasional pin, climbers on big walls that require a lot of hammering will use a funkness device to pull out pitons. This is essentially a metal cable that has been designed specifically for this purpose. To see a funkness device, please click here.

Practicing with pitons is a tricky thing. The fact that they damage the rock makes them heavily frowned upon. I would strongly suggest that ground-school with this kind of hardware should take place primarily in areas where there is little to no climbing, otherwise someone may get very upset at you...

--Jason D. Martin

Insect Repellent

It's summer in the Cascades, which means that it's bug season. Sometimes it comes a little before July, sometimes a little after, but this year it came right smack dab in the middle. And it's still here. Racking up at the Blue Lake Trailhead parking lot for a climb in Washington Pass is near suicidal this time of year, as the bugs can seriously ravage you in minutes if you don't start hiking as soon as you step out of the car. You can however, take some preventative measures. Sure you can cover as much skin as possible by wearing pants, long socks and long sleeves, but it sure is hot out and your face, neck, and hands are still exposed. The next thought is, bug spray.


There are many repellent options out there, some which are just down right ridiculous (ultrasound based electronics) and others which may spark arguments among friends. Personally, I find it is an argument (or at least a discussion) starter when I whip out the 100% DEET. Personally, I have found nothing that works more effectively and universally than DEET 100%. Some may recommend that you try products such as Deep Woods OFF which is made up of a mixture of 25% DEET and 75% who knows what. What I find people generally do, is use these compressed aerosol can mixtures and spray copious amounts of repellent all over themselves. The result of this is that they get the same, if not more DEET on them than if they used a more concentrated version sparingly, as well as 75% more of whatever else was in the can.

I choose to use the 100% DEET version and place perhaps one spray pumps worth, or a couple of drops, on my hands and rub the chemical on my exposed skin. Most companies say 100% DEET will last around 10 hours, and I think that's about right, but it doesn't matter because you will know when its effectiveness stops (it's rather dramatic). There are arguments against DEET, such as it discolors skin, decomposes synthetic fabrics and can cause seizures. There have even been four deaths which the EPA says DEET may have played a part in. However the number of reported cases lead the EPA to say that the likely seizure rate is only one in one million users, and I feel like my chance of contracting West Nile Virus, Malaria, Lyme disease, or the bubonic plague is much greater than one in one million. Not to mention the complications of those diseases are generally much worse than seizures.

There are other options besides DEET however, and I suppose I should mention those at least briefly. Avon Products produces a "Skin So Soft" line that contains the chemical IR3535 and some tests have shown that it is just as effective as DEET (if not better), at least when it comes to repelling mosquitoes. I think that this is probably the next best option and what I would try if I took the time to shop around for this product.


"Avon Skin So Soft Bug Gaurd Plus IR3535 Gentle Breeze SPF 30 Sunscreen with Aloe and Vitaman E." Man, I just want to keep the bugs away... not moisturize.

And then there are natural options, which honestly I'm not going to bother discussing. I have never used a single natural product that did anything more than make me smell delicious to koalas. You are more than welcome to experiment with these options, however I encourage you to have some anti-itch cream on hand as well.

Andrew Yasso - Program Coordinator

International: Round 2

Climbing rangers have second round of joint international training operations!

Last week we had the privilege of hosting a group of climbers from the Korean Mountain Rescue Association here at Rainier. A group of four climbers came over from Seoul, and spent a week
with us on the mountain learning about how our climbing program operates within the national park. Their association has over 600 members who climb all over the world and promote climbing throughout Korea. Most of their time here was spent training in advanced rescue techniques with climbing rangers and climbing Mount Rainier. Word on the street is they can cook up some good food, and we think some stories might have even been exchanged, thus leading to a fully successful week.

Thomas Payne, our official liaison with S. Korea, shown here with three of our guests after coming down from the summit on a beautiful sunny day.

August and September Climbing Events

--Aug 27 -- Fairhaven, Bellingham, WA -- Mountain Film Festival with a slideshow by AAI Guide Alasdair Turner

-- Aug 28 -- Truckee, CA -- Craggin' Classic

-- Sept 2 -- Aspen, CO -- Deep Water Solo Film Showing

-- Sept 16 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- HERA Foundation Climb4Life

-- Sept 18 -- Pocatello, ID -- Pocatello Pump, Idaho State University

-- Sept 25 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Adopt-a-Crag American Fork

-- Sept 25 -- Indian Creek, UT -- SushiFest

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!

If you are anything like me, you find yourself saying at times, "man, that person would make a great climber!" I always wonder what sports would lend themselves well to making good climbers, and vice versa. Well, I stumbled across this video of some pretty impressive dudes, who I think would make some amazing climbers. Look out Sharma, your biggest competition is coming out of India.


And then, there are guys working out on kid's playgrounds that could just crush you so hard. Turn off the sound on this one if you are offended by explicit lyrics. But keep your eyes open to witness the demolition.

Guidebook: Gunks - Baby (5.6), Blistered Toe (5.7), Filipina-Boldville Link-up (5.7), Shit Creek (5.7), Drunkard's Delight (5.8-),



Baby P1
Baby (5.6) - Two pitches - Trad - Mixed anchors

Approach: Take the trail up left immediately before the rescue box. Stay left at the split. Baby is the crack that comes out of the broken rock at the bottom and has a pod about 35 feet up.

Pitch One (5.6) - 80 feet - Bolted anchor: Climb the broken rock up to the pod. Clear the pod (crux - a #4 camalot works really well here if you're

Ratchets for Rescue

As stated in the past, we love Mike Barter's videos. The Canadian guide is currently doing perhaps the best job at creating instructional videos for climbing...and usually their pretty funny too!

Recently Mike posted a video on ratchets for rescue. One major component of any hauling system in a crevasse or rock rescue scenario is the ratchet. This is essentially the element of the system that allows the rescuer to retain any advantage that he has gained in the rescue.

Mike's video discusses four different types of ratchets:

1) Autoblocking Device:

Examples of autoblocking devices include the Petzel Reverso, the Black Diamond Guide ATC, the Trango GiGi and the B52. Each of these devices allows one to pull rope up through the device, but won't allow the load line to release without a few shenanigans...more on the shenanigans in a different post.

2) Garda Hitch

Also known as the alpine clutch, this quick system is very effective. However, it is extremely important to check that the hitch has been tied properly before using it in a rescue scenario.

3) Self-Minding Prussik

If you have taken a basic course from the American Alpine Institute, you know that we don't usually teach a means to create a self-minding prussik hitch. In the system that we teach, we leave the prussik cord a bit longer so that the rescuer can mind it himself. This is not quite as effective as either having a pulley that is designed to mind the prussik or a tube-style belay device that will operate the same way.

In the video, Mike also quickly demonstrates a way to make this prussik load-releasable by adding a munter-mule into the shelf. A load-releasable system is desirable in all rescue applications.

4) GriGri

The Petzl GriGri and the Trango Cinch are both highly underutilized tools for rescue. In part, it's because they are heavy, so a lot of climbers don't take them on long routes or into the alpine, but they are very effective. They work as both a pulley and a ratchet simultaneously and are -- by their very nature -- load releasable.




It is imperative that anyone going into the mountains has a rudimentary understanding of ratcheting in rescue. If you haven't had the opportunity to take a class, it might be very valuable to watch this video a few times over and to practice each of the skills shown...

--Jason D. Martin

Great Places to Go Climbing Group

Climbing has much to offer. achieve a sense of fulfillment and joy at the top are difficult to beat. Today, many social groups in the 'packages' are looking for pure joy of rock climbing and team building experiences. Climbing can help build teamwork and friendships.
There are a number of sites in the UK for internal and external groups in the form of climbing. You can view the days activities, normally should be fully recognized trainers offer beginners the chance to learn to navigate safely through a rock. These days are good for your corporate team building, although the costs 50-120 pounds a person can. Here are some sites that you want to attract in your group could get said.
Indoor climbing If you are just a little bit of climbing with a limited effort will be indoor climbing is a good opportunity to pick up. Lakeland is an indoor climbing course, that the private sessions for groups and offering families. Located in Kendal in the Lake District this property offers beginners courses and individual sessions to build skills.

Peak District Climbing in the Peak District began with the pioneers in 1890 and has been expanded so that every weekend, thousands of climbers on the rock. The peak has a wide range of large and small rocks, and with over 10,000 registered increases - probably do not know exactly how much - and the proximity of some major urban areas means that it is a very popular place to climb.
The peak offers a wealth of climbing for all. Valkyrie - Froggatt Edge, north of Cima is a good place tiles and rocks Chew Valley may offer strenuous tiles instead of hard routes.

Wales Wales has a land far more interesting than the mostly flat UK. There are many places to go to centers. Hot spots are Snowdonia and North Pembroke.
Dinas Mot one of the best rock Llanberis (Snowdonia). On the south side, but rarely reaches the sun and is better for a hot summer day of sunshine waiting. There are different types of climbing with spurs, and the roads are long and multi-pitch. The hilly area is 300-500 meters high, with over 100 routes of all levels.
The most popular and best reef in North Pembroke, Carreg-y-Barcud. The rock here is compact sandstone slabs of large sizes in uniform, thin edges and small tears. General face of Carreg-y-Barcud is the largest flat area and a wide choice of routes from E1 upwards.
Other factors When one day climbing to organize a group, you must take into account other factors. Transportation to and from the center, accommodation for a stay of more than a day and food products. If the group is large enough, it might be easier for a mini-bus or coach hire. You must, however, given the size of the vehicle and check their sites you have in mind access to contribute. In basic terms that are the center of climbing on the housing site, or want to find a nearby hotel.

Rock Climbing Why not? Climbing

Why climb? Many consider climbing is very dangerous and will try to talk to you like this, if you plan to do them. Do not stop the thoughts of others should continue to rise. You are responsible for your safety and security of your climbing partners. To reduce the risk of injury, paralysis or death, climb safe and good decision at all times.
Yet, I would like to improve your career secure.
Remember that an increase Matters.
This article is intended for everyone, tell everyone. The novice or experienced climbers that certain something that you want to win will increase your ability to climb.
And do not forget that the goal is to get on and enjoy!
I hope that when they finish reading this article, you must:
Acquire a basic knowledge of climbing.
Why climb?
Personally, it is because there are many paths to climb, you'll never be bored of climbing. Some people enjoy the dynamic total body workout, while others, such as the Community at their local gym. For experienced climbers, are competitors who train all year to the victory. And then you can go just for pure relaxation.
Climbing is the ultimate challenge. Every day on the rocks is a Opportunities for you to your limits and go beyond the powers already difficult paths of study.
Most climbers are also looking for adventure and freedom. Outdoor climbing is an opportunity to combine your favorite outdoor activities. Like many climbing areas are located in remote areas, camping and hiking are often a necessary part of a climbing trip. Enjoy nature and wildlife from when Boulder Boulder is a great compliment for each hiking day. This feeling that you are free to choose where and when to go is great. The exceptional nature and the landscape at the summit, a breathtaking view that will not see many people are treated.
Among other things your children?
Climbing can build stronger ties with your children. Climbing with them at home or outdoor use. Soon it will certainly deserves "respect" them if what you can do to show! You can also try to host a birthday party at your climbing and watch your children the time of their lives.
Friendship
This is almost impossible not to meet new friends, as you climb. And this is one of the main reasons for me getting into. The type of climbing requires responsible involvement and help from other climbers. We always need a good spotter or insurer to climb safely. Moreover, there is always more fun when you're climbing partner to go by train or road.
Fitness
There are two schools of thought. One that, if people get up to get ready to impress with your body that will disappointed, Because it is much easier ways to work instead for a walk in the woods and rocks are dangerous.
The other school of thought is that climbing is easy to get and stay fit. dynamic muscle strength, flexibility, balance, coordination will be developed by varying the type, intensity and duration of the climb. And that is why having a strong, lean muscles with perseverance to develop.
to reach for me, climbing is balance and positioning of the body to a stable equilibrium.
creative movement and adapt quickly will be key to climbing. The experience and fitness, work hand in hand. And many women have a strong climbers climbing men humiliated.
Spiritual
Climbing challenges your reflexes and calm. Although the wall, the path is the mind is so moved that challenge harder.
At least once not to extend back to its original condition.
Any increase for a number of reasons.
There are no right or wrong philosophy of climbing. And no matter what the reason for learning to climb is very similar to learning a bicycle. You never forget the basic moves, but will need much practice to perfect them, if you register for the competition.

Basic Rock Climbing kit

Rock climbing is an adventurous and exciting sports. The challenges of the steep rock formations requires strength, endurance and mental control. It is also important to have a thorough knowledge of climbing on techniques and the use of Het climb the right equipment and facilities have is essential.
Belt, helmet and Belay Plate
It has two types of cables - fully adjustable, and partly set. During the first season all the tools, but even more climbing in the winter, the second usually has only in the summer. Harness Whatever your choice, make sure he spends a lot of robust materials that are well filled. Belt buckles with different types and different ways of linking to get the rope. Before purchasing the cable to stay out for ten minutes and check the level of comfort. The gear must fit properly, especially that the leg slips to loss in inappropriate places. The belt should be above the hips, tight enough to prevent slipping in them.
There are many different types of plate to break, but not all dishes suitable for all types of climbing. Check the security level for the purchase of one. ATCs are popular and easy to use, but a big crash on a wet rope 9mm. A VC (Variable Controller) is a good choice in the round and can be designed for high or low friction. A plate with a double-locking snap hooks and rope Sticht is a good craftsman.
The helmet is a must for climbers. To prevent head injuries from falling rocks or accidentally stumbling on the rocks. A view of the mountains, with a helmet with a top of the torch. Choose a helmet that can withstand the impact of safe breakage. The helmet should be one inch to one inch above the eyebrows. It should sit level on the head, and even with the chin strap undone, should not lead into everyday language.
Rock Boots
Boots of comfort, fit the gears are key to climbing. For bouldering, tight boots are good, but slightly loose fitted ones are best for long days on big mountain trails. Her tight boots climb well, but can also lead to the foot of the black and a little bit "before the fall. Even the boots fitted separately to the toes with just a little to destroy," but when you're uncomfortable with tight shoes, select the most flexible option. Except in very cold conditions Rock Boots are worn without socks. Having progressed to advanced climbing is also to new developments and best quality shoes. Anasazi are a few people recommended by many climbers.
Prussik (basic emergency kit)
If you are planning a multi-pitch climbing Prussik become a must. Get a clip to protect with three meters of cable in the store 4mm climbing and understanding how this equipment to climb with a rope, and fell pulley systems and open beer bottles. The fittings are HMS carabiner, chalk bag and a sling 120cm. They also need warm clothing, rain gear, a bag, compass, first aid, canteen, gloves, if they do not climb, a towel for rock boots, headlamp, sleeping bag cleanly.
Ropes
Paths only occasionally sports a 60m rope. Ropes come in a variety of styles and should be clearly labeled as to its use.
Dynamic internal use only designed to be, is great for a pitch and indoor use. Thickness varies from 9.5 mm to 11mm. More subtle were lighter and less safe but more expensive and sometimes have a lower score if the number drops significantly before bed.
Double Dynamic should be as part of a couple and well-used for multi-pitch climbing and zig-zag path around a lot. Width a bit about 9mm. You can also abseil twice the distance without running out of rope. Finally, I am sure, very rarely calculated, on a sharp edge, known to some ropes to break - but that's never happened to both of the strings in a few half.
Double Dynamic should be a part of the torque and well-used for multi-pitch climbing and zig-zag path around a lot. Width tends to about 9mm. Alternative, two double-rope from a distance without Running Out of rope. Finally, I am sure, many times when it is loaded on a sharp edge, are known to break ropes - but this has not happened for half the strings to some.
are static rappelling ropes and rigging alone.
Ropes for rappelling and rigging alone. The route is expected to depend on the type of rock up what you want, and what equipment is lost. If only climbing sports, all you need is 12 articles. For the rest, we recommend the following.
2 x 120 cm sling (the length which is twice around the chest Wraps - the length of the belt is cm, but the half of this cycle 240)
Set the size of the dice 10-10
8 references in various lengths
A few large rock Centrics
Four additional module notes and save it to rock Centrics
Screw two additional stops Gates
A mother with