Showing posts with label Climbing News. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Climbing News. Show all posts

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- September 4, 2008

Cascades:
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--A 27 year old man fell to his death from Mount Si on Thursday afternoon. While not a technical route, the super popular hiking trail on the mountain has a difficult finish. The last two hundred feet to the summit requires third class scrambling and the summit itself. This incident came on the heels of two other rescues last week.
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--And not too far from Mount Si, a 47 year-old man fell to his death on Guye Peak on Tuesday. The details of this accident have not yet been released, but it appears the man was a hiker and not a climber. The South Face of Guye Peak is a steep climbing objective, but other aspects are accessible to hikers.
--The question is as old as the sport, why do you climb? Seattle climber Kij Johnson wrote and read a fantastic essay on the subject for NPR's series, "This I believe." In the essay, Johnson explains how climbing saved her from black thoughts and dangerous actions.

Himalaya:

--A Slovenian climber, Dejan Miskovic was rescued last Thursday on the Muztagh Tower in the Karakoram area of Pakistan. The climber was attempting to descent the mountain after his partner broke through a cornice and fell several hundred meters. The team was attempting an alpine style first ascent of the northeast face of the tower.

Alps:

Mont Blanc
--The London Times Online published an article last week that was extremely critical of climbers on Mont Blanc. The article's author complains about the amount of people on the mountain while engaging in a climb of his own. The article is interesting, but should be read with a critical eye. As a side note, American guides do not ascribe to the guiding techniques described in the article.

--Italian climbers Franco Nicolini and Diego Giovanni recently broke the "82x4000" record in the Alps. There are 82 four-thousand meter peaks. Nicolini and Giovanni smashed the previous record by completing this feat in 60 days. The pair traveled to each peak under their own power on bikes or on foot.

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Two Swiss climbers were busy over Labor Day weekend and completed a team free redpoint of the Eiger's hardest route, a 23-pitch 5.13b. The route was completed in two days and the team had to hurry on the second day because one of the climbers had a slideshow that evening.



Notes from All Over:

--Four climbers were rescued from Bugaboo Spire in the Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park. It appears that a rescue helicopter made contact with the climbers and thought that they were able to descend on their own. Unfortunately that was not the case. The helicopter left the scene and the climbers remained stranded for two more days.

--On Friday, the New York Times ran an article about thru-hikers on the Appalachian Trail and their relationship to Kent, a small upper-crust town. Apparently many hikers resupply in the ritzy little hamlet, much to the shock of some out-of-town visitors. The best line of the article describes an out-of-town woman's statement after seeing one too many hikers, "how could a town like Kent have such a homeless problem?"

--Are the public's skills at map reading going the way of the dinosaur? According to Mary Spence, the President of the British Cartographic Society, people's skills are diminishing due to the increased use of the internet and satnav technologies.
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--When you worry about how busy our mountains are getting, just think of Mount Fuji in Japan. Officials estimate that over 247,000 people scaled the mountain in July and August.

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- August 28, 2008

Northwest:

--Last week a large group of skiers and snowboarders got together in Mount Rainier National Park to participate in the sixth annual Turns-All-Year Slush Cup. This event requires wildly costumed participants to ski down a slope and across a body of water.  The following photos of the event were provided to us by Andre Nguyen:





--Two Seattle teenagers were pinned under massive blocks of snow and ice for five hours this last Thursday. Alessandro Gelmini and Alec Corbett were exploring snow caves near Snoqualmie Pass when one of the caves collapsed. Both boys sustained serious injuries, but survived.

--Three teenagers were rescued from Three Fingers mountain yesterday. Two seventeen year-olds and one sixteen year old from the Marysville area spent the night at the 5,500 foot level. They were found by a SAR team early in the morning and were hiked out shortly thereafter.

--AAI Guide Alasdair Turner recently launched a website that features his mountain photography.

--Northwest climber Steph Abegg put together a website that compares mountaineering photos from today with those that her parents took nearly thirty years ago. In some cases the glaciers look radically different, in others they don't.
Alps:


--A massive avalanche swept down Mont Blanc on Sunday capturing fifteen climbers. Eight climbers were killed in one of the most serious tragedies to hit the Alps in decades.
--A small team of Italians established a new rock route on the east-southeast face of Punta (10,154'), a granite tower on the east flank of the Dent de Jetoula (10,846') above the Rochefort Glacier. The new line requires climbing up to 5.11b, A0.
Himalaya:

--Slovenian alpinist Pavle Kozjek is missing on the Muztagh Tower (23,897') in Pakistan's Karakoram range. Though the details are scarce, it appears that Kozjek and his partners set-up a tent near a cornice. Kozjek approached the edge and fell.
--On August 1, 2008, Spanish climbers Alberto Inurrategi, Ferran Latorre, Jose Carlos Tamayo, Juan Vallejo and Miguel Zabaleza made the fifth ascent of Gasherbrum IV (26,000'), in the Karakoram of Pakistan.

Notes from All Over:

--Fifty-Nine year old New Zealand climbing guide, Gottlieb Braun-Elwert died while guiding the New Zealand Prime Minister and her husband. The group had just returned to their hut after a day of ski touring when Braun-Elwert collapsed, the apparent victim of a heart-attack. The group performed CPR on the man for two and a half hours to no avail.

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!

Do any of you know what time of the week it is? If you said that it is time for another edition of Weekend Warrior than you are absolutely correct! I hope that all of you are making the most of your weekends this summer and if you aren't....just watch these videos and you won't be able to keep yourself from going outside and playing.

If you don't have a lot of time to spare this weekend then this first video is for you. It is short but jam packed with incredibly dramatic alpine scenery and exciting climbing footage. This video is the trailer for the Alps IMAX movie and even though it came out quite some time ago it is still worth a watch for a quick adrenaline rush.

The second video is for anyone who can't stop daydreaming of powder turns and the beautiful backcountry that so often accompanies them. Watch "The Spirit of Snow" and get stoked to search for those elusive summer slopes high in the mountains.

The last video on the line-up features some amazing desert rock climbing. Watch as Rob Pizem and Mike Brumbaugh attempt to climb 5 huge desert towers in a 24 hour period. They aren't just taking the easy way either. After I watched this video I couldn't wait for the desert to cool down and make climbing there tolerable.

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- July 3, 2008

NORTHWEST:

--Firefighters are currently battling a blaze just north of Kendall in the North Fork of the Nooksack River.

--A cool new mixed line went up on Sacajawea Peak in the Lost River Range of Idaho. Dean Lords and Justin Avenius found M7 moves on the eight hundred foot east ridge of the peak.

--The Bellingham Herald ran a story last week about recognizing and treating altitude sickness.

--The Northwest Avalanche Center is working to upgrade their website in order for it to be more user friendly. They are looking for input on this project and have posted a survey online. If you would like to help them with their upgrades, .

--A climber was rescued after a crevasse fall from the Kautz Glacier on Mount Rainier yesterday morning.

ALASKA:

--American Alpine Institute Denali Teams 7 and 8 summitted Tuesday! They are now in the process of working their way back down the mountain to the airstrip. To read our daily trip dispatches, 

--A grizzly bear attacked a 14-year old girl competing in a bike race near Anchorage just outside Chugach State Park this week. The teenage girl suffered severe injuries on her head, neck, torso and legs. She is listed in critical condition. To read more about this incident,

SIERRA:

--More than one thousand wilderness fires are burning across California right now. Most of these were started by the lethal combination of lightning, warm weather, and high winds. To read more about these fires and the effort to contain them,. Up to date reports may be found here.

--Heart transplant recipient, Kelly Perkins, 46, recently completed the Regular Northwest Face Route on the Half Dome in Yosemite. Perkins completed the two and a half day 2000 foot big wall route on Saturday. The climb caps a string of notable ascents since Perkins received a heart transplant in 1996. To read more,

--This morning NPR had a great story on the new Yosemite El Capitan speed record.

SOUTH AMERICA:

--Damian Benegas completed a new line on Huallomen (Wyoming) Peak (17,923') in the Condoriri Valley of Bolivia. The line is 14 pitches long with sections of WI 5. Former American Alpine Institute guides Geoffrey Bartram and Miles Newby opened up a number of routes in this valley in the late eighties. To read more about Damian's ascent, 

NOTES FROM ALL OVER:

--More than one thousand wilderness fires are burning across California right now. Most of these were started by the lethal combination of lightning, warm weather, and high winds. To read more about these fires and the effort to contain them

--New York City is implementing an "Anti-Spidey" law. The new law will make it illegal to climb or jump off any building over 25 feet tall. Adventure seekers will now face a fine of up to a $1000 and will be charged with a Class A misdemeanor. It is likely that climbers and BASE jumpers that are strangely attracted to buildings instead of mountains will be willing to risk such a fine. To read more

--Nine young hikers were rescued Monday from a ledge above a swollen creek in Western New York. The hikers -- dressed in nothing but t-shirts and shorts -- were hiking in the Zoar Valley, 30 miles south of Buffalo, when they were cut off by a flood. The group was forced to spend the night before being rescued.

--Climber, photographer and skier, Jimmy Chin solo climbed and skied the Grand, Middle and South Tetons in Grand Teton National Park in a remarkable 10 hours and 55 minutes. To read more about this super fast climbing and skiing trifecta,

--A peak in Nepal has been named for the legendary chronicler of Himalayan climbing, Elizabeth Hawley. French ice climber François Damilano named a peak in the in the Dhaulagiri Group after a solo ascent. Hawley has been documenting ascents in the Himalaya since 1963. Her biography, I'll Call You in Kathmandu, by Bernadette McDonald was recently published by the Mountaineers Books. To read more about Damilano's ascent,

--The extremely popular rock climbing forum, rockclimbing.com was recently sold to NameMedia. This company also recently acquired dropzone.com and BASEjumper.com. To read the NameMedia press release,. To read the announcement on rockclimbing.com and to see both the positive and negative responses to the sale,

Cancer Research Expedition about to Begin!

From the Big Expedition for Cancer Research website:
  • Life is full of challenges. Some are more daunting than others. Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center's mission is to eliminate cancer and related diseases as causes of human suffering and death. Meeting that challenge is a long and arduous endeavor. Climbing a mountain peak is also an arduous task requiring skill, special tools, tenacity and determination. Like science you can see the summit in the distance but as you continue up, it may not seem to be getting any closer. The Big Expedition for Cancer Research — Unclimbed Mountains to Conquer is intended to show that seemingly insurmountable challenges are attainable and that they can lead to successes — such as finding a cure for cancer.
  • These mountains are unclimbed because they are hard to reach and only a goal-oriented group with a mission would take on such a difficult task. The Big Expedition for Cancer Research brings together a group of professional mountaineers who will take on the challenge of one of these unclimbed mountains somewhere in the world. The general public will be able to be a part of this adventure through the news media and the Internet. They will see that success can be achieved through planning, teamwork and commitment.
AAI Guide Dawn Glanc is one of the climbers on the unprecedented expedition. We got the following email from her this morning:
  • Hello all. The big expedition is set to begin in a few short hours. It is late and I am doing my last minute things so that I can go into the mountains for 3 weeks. We fly to AK in the afternoon and then on Saturday we will take a boat to the inlet where the journey begins. I am very excited for this trip to begin. It has been a very hectic last few days trying to get all the food and gear straight. I feel like we are ready. We have plenty of food, music and whiskey to make for a great trip. While we are on the mountain, please feel free to check in with us on the website below. They should be blogging with updates as we call them in. Remember no news is good news, so do not worry if we miss a day of dispatches. Do whatever dance you need to do so that we will have good weather for climbing. We will do our best to be cautious and we will make wise and smart mountain choices so that we can all celebrate when we return sometime in the first few days of July. Until next time, take care and have fun!
  • Cheers,
  • Dawn