We have a bit of a tendency to poo poo bouldering around here. Many of our guides boulder regularly, but few look at it as a major form of climbing. A large percentage of the climbing population does not share this view. Indeed, there are many climbers out there who only own a pair of rock shoes, a chalk bag and a bouldering pad.
Today, we are going to celebrate and art and beauty of bouldering. Extremely short climbs, extremely hard moves, no rope, no gear, and no fear! That's what it's all about!
First, we have a bunch of climbers sponsored by DMM in a video where they show off absolutely perfect bouldering technique.
And in this second selection, we have a group of climbers that don't look quite as smooth. This little gang of non-professionals boulders in the dark forests under the Stawamus Chief in Squamish. It's fun to see people work routes occasionally too!
Paradise Road Damaged!
Updated Winter Access to Paradise
The washout approximately 6 miles above Longmire at mile 12.4 on the road to Paradise (just above the Nisqually Bridge) has been rated to be acceptable for 1-way traffic by the Federal Highways Administration inspectors.
Mount Rainier National Park has arranged for weekend and holiday access to Paradise. There will be one-way-at-a-time traffic operation with a flagger at milepost 11.3 (Glacier Bridge chain-up area) and another flagger up above at milepost 13.3 (Canyon Rim Overlook). Expect about a 5 to 10-minute wait for cars to pass each way before the opposite direction traffic is allowed.
Overnight use, climbing, and backcountry camping are allowed, but your trip itineraries need to be limited to these periods that the road is open to the public (weekend and holiday periods).
Updated: January 31st, 2009 The NPS is trying remain flexible about road closures during the mid-week. If the weather forecast for the day looks good (clear and sunny, or at least no snow forecast), we are currently making a strong effort for the road to be opened to the public. This means that if the forecast looks good, you should be able to plan a climb!
On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays the road will close each evening at 5:30 p.m. No traffic is allowed down or up the road after the road is closed. The road crew typically is able to re-open the road sometime between 7:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. each day, depending on the amount of new snow received during the night.
Listed below are good guidelines to follow regarding estimating when the road may open. Please bear in mind that these estimated times are by no means a promise, so your patience is requested. Many variables exist that determine when the road is ready to open. Snow density affects plowing operation, with lighter snow being easier to move. Wind is another factor, since drifts and wind-packed snow take longer to remove. A large front-end loader or extended times with a blower are often needed to remove avalanche debris. How many plow drivers are on duty is a yet another factor. But generally, at Paradise:
0-3 inches of new snow: 7:00 - 8:00 a.m. opening
3-6 inches of new snow: 8:00 - 10:00 a.m. opening
6-10 inches of new snow: 10:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m. opening (avalanche danger may be an issue with this much new snow)
10-15 inches of new snow: 11:00 a.m. -1:00 p.m. opening (avalanche danger may prohibit the road from opening at all)!
15 inches or more: The road may remain closed either due to snow removal problems or due to avalanche danger!
It is very important for visitors to realize that during or for an unspecified time after heavy snow periods, the road may not open at all. Be flexible! To make the best use of time at Rainier during these periods plan an alternate trip itinerary, perhaps to a backcountry destination such as Eagle Peak, Indian Henry’s, or even up into Van Trump Park and onto the upper mountain via the Kautz Glacier Route!
The washout approximately 6 miles above Longmire at mile 12.4 on the road to Paradise (just above the Nisqually Bridge) has been rated to be acceptable for 1-way traffic by the Federal Highways Administration inspectors.
Mount Rainier National Park has arranged for weekend and holiday access to Paradise. There will be one-way-at-a-time traffic operation with a flagger at milepost 11.3 (Glacier Bridge chain-up area) and another flagger up above at milepost 13.3 (Canyon Rim Overlook). Expect about a 5 to 10-minute wait for cars to pass each way before the opposite direction traffic is allowed.
Overnight use, climbing, and backcountry camping are allowed, but your trip itineraries need to be limited to these periods that the road is open to the public (weekend and holiday periods).
On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays the road will close each evening at 5:30 p.m. No traffic is allowed down or up the road after the road is closed. The road crew typically is able to re-open the road sometime between 7:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. each day, depending on the amount of new snow received during the night.
Listed below are good guidelines to follow regarding estimating when the road may open. Please bear in mind that these estimated times are by no means a promise, so your patience is requested. Many variables exist that determine when the road is ready to open. Snow density affects plowing operation, with lighter snow being easier to move. Wind is another factor, since drifts and wind-packed snow take longer to remove. A large front-end loader or extended times with a blower are often needed to remove avalanche debris. How many plow drivers are on duty is a yet another factor. But generally, at Paradise:
0-3 inches of new snow: 7:00 - 8:00 a.m. opening
3-6 inches of new snow: 8:00 - 10:00 a.m. opening
6-10 inches of new snow: 10:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m. opening (avalanche danger may be an issue with this much new snow)
10-15 inches of new snow: 11:00 a.m. -1:00 p.m. opening (avalanche danger may prohibit the road from opening at all)!
15 inches or more: The road may remain closed either due to snow removal problems or due to avalanche danger!
It is very important for visitors to realize that during or for an unspecified time after heavy snow periods, the road may not open at all. Be flexible! To make the best use of time at Rainier during these periods plan an alternate trip itinerary, perhaps to a backcountry destination such as Eagle Peak, Indian Henry’s, or even up into Van Trump Park and onto the upper mountain via the Kautz Glacier Route!
Don't forget to pick up a climbing or backcountry permit and a climbing pass at the Longmire Museum, open 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily.
Have fun, stay out of avalanches, and be safe!
2009 Denali NP Research Fellowship Programs
AAI just received this email from Denali National Park:
The National Park Service and the Murie Science and Learning Center (MSLC) have extended the application period for two research fellowships that are available to individuals wishing to conduct research in Denali National Park and Preserve and other arctic and subarctic Alaska national parks. The Discover Denali Research Fellowship is for research in or near Denali, and the Murie Science and Learning Center Fellowship is for research taking place in Denali or other arctic or subarctic Alaska national parks.
The deadline for both fellowship applications is now February 20, 2009. The selections are expected to be made soon after March 1, 2009. The fieldwork of fellowship recipients must be arranged before September 1, 2009.
The Discover Denali and the MSLC Fellowship Programs are open to undergraduate and graduate students, college and university faculty, state and federal agency scientists, and private-sector researchers. Proposals for research that will help managers make decisions about critical resource issues are particularly encouraged. A typical fellowship grant is expected to be around $3,000 – $3,500; however, proposals for up to $5,000 will be considered. If an applicant wants to be considered for both funding sources, only one application is needed.
This is the second year that the Murie Science and Learning Center research funds will be available to researcher-applicants whose studies help managers in all of the parks that are partners with the MSLC: Bering Land Bridge National Preserve, Cape Krusenstern National Monument, Denali National Park and Preserve, Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Kobuk Valley National Park, Noatak National Preserve, Wrangell – St. Elias National Park and Preserve, and Yukon – Charley Rivers National Preserve. A total of approximately 3-6 fellowships may be funded in 2009.
This is the fourth year that the Discover Denali Research Fellowship Program has been available for researchers. It is projected that 3-5 projects may be funded in 2009. Any previous fellow may reapply, but is not assured of additional funding.
An information guide about either of the fellowship programs, which includes specifics on how to apply and other information helpful to the application process, may be downloaded from www.nps.gov/dena/naturescience/discodena.htm. For more information contact Denali’s Research Administrator Lucy Tyrrell at (907) 683-6352 or lucy_tyrrell@nps.gov.
The Discover Denali Fellowship Program is made possible through proceeds from Discover Denali, an MSLC program developed in partnership between the Denali Education Center and the National Park Service. The Discover Denali program helps Royal Celebrity participants learn about Denali’s natural and human history. The Murie Science and Learning Center Fellowship Program is made possible through the proceeds of the Center’s many education programs.
The Murie Science and Learning Center provides research, discovery, and learning opportunities within arctic and subarctic Alaska National Parks to promote appreciation and caring for our national and cultural heritage. The Denali Education Center seeks to connect people to Denali through research, education, and communication.
Guidebooks -- How Much Information is Too Much?
There are two kinds of climbers in the world. First, there are the kind that are completely bewildered by a guidebook description. You'll see them wide-eyed and stumbling around at the crags, or even in the mountains looking for a route. Once they're on the route, they often have no idea which way to go. They simply have to follow their noses and their noses are not very good.
Second, there are the kind of climbers that glance at the guidebook and then walk straight to the route. Once they're on the route, they might glance at the route description occasionally, but they always seem to know where they are going.
Certainly, there are climbers who have more experience and better mountain sense. Those climbers barely need a guidebook as it is. But this article isn't about them. Instead, it's about the guidebooks that each kind of stereotypical climber might use. In other words, "the good guidebooks" and the "bad guidebooks."
What is a so-called "good guidebook"?
Most would consider a good guidebook to be one that is very clear. There are photos of everything. There are route topos. Pitch lengths are described. Bivi sites are detailed. And there is excellent approach and descent beta. In other words, nothing is left to the imagination.
Then what is a "bad guidebook"?
Jason on the third ascent of Sunspot Ridge (5.8 IV) in Red Rock Canyon
This was a phenomenal "secret" route with almost no beta.
A bad guidebook has little valuable information. There are few photos and many routes are described so briefly that no one would ever want to attempt them. Climbers often wander around looking for their climb or even their approach. Pitch lengths are incorrect and there is little to inspire one to climb a given route.
There is actually an argument for "bad guidebooks." The argument goes something like this, if you have too much information, it kills the adventure. If you have too much information, the experience is somehow tarnished. If you have too much information, it's just not as fun.
Coley Gentzel climbs an obscure route on Early Morning Spire in the Cascades.
Note the Guide Tennies while wearing crampons.
"It was an adventure...I'll put it that way," Coley said of the route.
I have to admit that occasionally it is kind of fun to climb an obscure, poorly described route. Particularly one that is in the mountains. Such adventures tend to take one away from the crowds and sometimes even introduce a route that is a little bit of a secret, but quite cool. So there is something to be said for the so-called "bad guidebooks."
A few years ago, I guided one of the couloir routes on Whistler Peak. There were approximately two sentences in the guidebook on the route. Essentially there was no beta. We climbed the route and found it to be utterly spectacular. It was a moderate climb with a bit of steep snow and a bit of mixed terrain.
There was also nobody else on the route...
In other words, I think that people should give certain guidebooks, (i.e. the Beckey books) a break. Historically, all that people had were limited descriptions. I think that every climber should try to climb at least one obscure, poorly described route a year. Every now and again, you'll find it to be worth it.
--Jason D. Martin
Certainly, there are climbers who have more experience and better mountain sense. Those climbers barely need a guidebook as it is. But this article isn't about them. Instead, it's about the guidebooks that each kind of stereotypical climber might use. In other words, "the good guidebooks" and the "bad guidebooks."
What is a so-called "good guidebook"?
Most would consider a good guidebook to be one that is very clear. There are photos of everything. There are route topos. Pitch lengths are described. Bivi sites are detailed. And there is excellent approach and descent beta. In other words, nothing is left to the imagination.
Then what is a "bad guidebook"?
Jason on the third ascent of Sunspot Ridge (5.8 IV) in Red Rock CanyonThis was a phenomenal "secret" route with almost no beta.
There is actually an argument for "bad guidebooks." The argument goes something like this, if you have too much information, it kills the adventure. If you have too much information, the experience is somehow tarnished. If you have too much information, it's just not as fun.
Coley Gentzel climbs an obscure route on Early Morning Spire in the Cascades.Note the Guide Tennies while wearing crampons.
"It was an adventure...I'll put it that way," Coley said of the route.
A few years ago, I guided one of the couloir routes on Whistler Peak. There were approximately two sentences in the guidebook on the route. Essentially there was no beta. We climbed the route and found it to be utterly spectacular. It was a moderate climb with a bit of steep snow and a bit of mixed terrain.
There was also nobody else on the route...
In other words, I think that people should give certain guidebooks, (i.e. the Beckey books) a break. Historically, all that people had were limited descriptions. I think that every climber should try to climb at least one obscure, poorly described route a year. Every now and again, you'll find it to be worth it.
--Jason D. Martin
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- January 29, 2008
Northwest:
--On Wednesday, January 21, 31-year-old Brooke Colvin and her husband, Thad Stavn, were climbing near the Hog's Back rock formation near the 10,000-foot level on Mount Hood when they were hit by ice-fall. Colvin was struck by the debris and killed. To read more, click here.
--The Stevens Pass Ski Resort has proposed plans to add new ski lifts and to develop new summer lift-accessed mountain biking trails. Most projects like this require large scale environmental impact studies (EIS). But in this particular case, the, the Forest Service wants to examine the master plan for Stevens under an abbreviated environmental assessment of only the first phase of the project. Other steps in the expansion would be examined as phases of the project progresses. Environmental groups are protesting this as an ineffective way to look at the big picture. To read more, click here.
--A recent study in the Olympic Mountains indicates that the extinction of local wolf packs decades ago has had a far reaching impact on the health of the area. Wildlife biologists believe that the disappearance of the predator has caused problems not just with elk numbers, but with everything from degredation of vegetation to the loss of fish habitat. To read more, click here.
Chad Kellogg on moderate ice during the first ascent of
Colonial Peak's Split Shot (IV, WI 4+)
Photo by Dan Aylward
--Over the weekend, Chad Kellogg and Dan Aylward made the first ascent of a new line on Colonial Peak. The have named their route, Split Shot (as in, a coffee beverage with one regular and one decaf espresso shot) and it clocks in at a reasonable IV, WI 4+. This peak is well-known for the difficult and committing Mark Twight route, Watusi Rodeo; but in recent years a number of other winter snow and ice lines have been explored on the face. To see a photo of the face, click here and use the zoom feature. The yellow line on the far right is Split Shot. To read more, click here.
--There are three bills before the Washington legislature that will have an effect on backcountry users below treeline. The first will require hunters under the age of fourteen to be accompanied by an adult. The second would require hunters under the age of sixteen to be accompanied by an adult. Obviously, most outdoor adventure enthusists would like to see the second bill passed. And the third would require all backcountry users to wear bright orange during the hunting season. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
The First Ascent of Eichorn's Pinnacle
Photo by Lewis Clark
Courtesy of Mike Rettie
--Mike Rettie of Alameda, California found two interesting boxes in 1993. It turns out that they were full of photos and negatives from Sierra Club outings in the 1930s. The images are chocked full of Sierra first ascents. Rettie is still developing the negatives and is in the process of creating a website to honor the images. To view the site, click here.
--Winter air service to the Eastern Sierra has been going exceptionally well. There is currently a proposal on the table to expand the air service to include summer flights by 2010. This will make summer trips to the Sierras much easier to manage for climbers from all over the world. To read more, click here.
--After many years of studies and debates, the Forest Service announced today that officials have approved the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area Ski Back Trail with a finding of No Significant Impact. The decision allows for construction of a Ski Back Trail from near the top terminal of Chair 7 to The Village. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--In a terrible turn of events over the weekend, an avalanche slammed into a large group of climbers in Turkey, dragging them more than 1,600 feet into a valley. Ten were killed in the accident. The team, which included 17 members of a skiing and mountaineering club, were taking part in an annual winter sports celebration on the 7,200-foot Mount Zigana. To read more, click here.
--The mortality rate of old-growth forests across the West has more than doubled in recent decades, and those forests are now losing more trees than they gain, according to a new study that identified the most probable cause as warming temperatures. The trend is happening at every elevation, in trees of different sizes and of various species, researchers with the U.S. Geological Survey and universities reported in the peer-reviewed journal Science. To read more, click here.
--On Saturday, NPR ran a story on ice climbing on Iowa grain silos. The man-made ice is fabricated through the use of a garden hose and a shower head. Those Mid-Westerners will do anything to get out and climb! And you got to admire that! To read more, click here.
--The infamous Huber brothers have done it again. Alex and Thomas Huber, along with Stephan Siegrist, just completed an Antarctic trip to Queen Maud Land. The trio successfully completed two massive new rock routes on the North Buttress of Holtanna and the West Buttress of Ulvetanna. To read more, click here and here.
--On Wednesday, January 21, 31-year-old Brooke Colvin and her husband, Thad Stavn, were climbing near the Hog's Back rock formation near the 10,000-foot level on Mount Hood when they were hit by ice-fall. Colvin was struck by the debris and killed. To read more, click here.
--The Stevens Pass Ski Resort has proposed plans to add new ski lifts and to develop new summer lift-accessed mountain biking trails. Most projects like this require large scale environmental impact studies (EIS). But in this particular case, the, the Forest Service wants to examine the master plan for Stevens under an abbreviated environmental assessment of only the first phase of the project. Other steps in the expansion would be examined as phases of the project progresses. Environmental groups are protesting this as an ineffective way to look at the big picture. To read more, click here.
--A recent study in the Olympic Mountains indicates that the extinction of local wolf packs decades ago has had a far reaching impact on the health of the area. Wildlife biologists believe that the disappearance of the predator has caused problems not just with elk numbers, but with everything from degredation of vegetation to the loss of fish habitat. To read more, click here.
Chad Kellogg on moderate ice during the first ascent ofColonial Peak's Split Shot (IV, WI 4+)
Photo by Dan Aylward
--Over the weekend, Chad Kellogg and Dan Aylward made the first ascent of a new line on Colonial Peak. The have named their route, Split Shot (as in, a coffee beverage with one regular and one decaf espresso shot) and it clocks in at a reasonable IV, WI 4+. This peak is well-known for the difficult and committing Mark Twight route, Watusi Rodeo; but in recent years a number of other winter snow and ice lines have been explored on the face. To see a photo of the face, click here and use the zoom feature. The yellow line on the far right is Split Shot. To read more, click here.
--There are three bills before the Washington legislature that will have an effect on backcountry users below treeline. The first will require hunters under the age of fourteen to be accompanied by an adult. The second would require hunters under the age of sixteen to be accompanied by an adult. Obviously, most outdoor adventure enthusists would like to see the second bill passed. And the third would require all backcountry users to wear bright orange during the hunting season. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
The First Ascent of Eichorn's PinnaclePhoto by Lewis Clark
Courtesy of Mike Rettie
--Mike Rettie of Alameda, California found two interesting boxes in 1993. It turns out that they were full of photos and negatives from Sierra Club outings in the 1930s. The images are chocked full of Sierra first ascents. Rettie is still developing the negatives and is in the process of creating a website to honor the images. To view the site, click here.
--Winter air service to the Eastern Sierra has been going exceptionally well. There is currently a proposal on the table to expand the air service to include summer flights by 2010. This will make summer trips to the Sierras much easier to manage for climbers from all over the world. To read more, click here.
--After many years of studies and debates, the Forest Service announced today that officials have approved the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area Ski Back Trail with a finding of No Significant Impact. The decision allows for construction of a Ski Back Trail from near the top terminal of Chair 7 to The Village. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--In a terrible turn of events over the weekend, an avalanche slammed into a large group of climbers in Turkey, dragging them more than 1,600 feet into a valley. Ten were killed in the accident. The team, which included 17 members of a skiing and mountaineering club, were taking part in an annual winter sports celebration on the 7,200-foot Mount Zigana. To read more, click here.
--The mortality rate of old-growth forests across the West has more than doubled in recent decades, and those forests are now losing more trees than they gain, according to a new study that identified the most probable cause as warming temperatures. The trend is happening at every elevation, in trees of different sizes and of various species, researchers with the U.S. Geological Survey and universities reported in the peer-reviewed journal Science. To read more, click here.
--On Saturday, NPR ran a story on ice climbing on Iowa grain silos. The man-made ice is fabricated through the use of a garden hose and a shower head. Those Mid-Westerners will do anything to get out and climb! And you got to admire that! To read more, click here.
--The infamous Huber brothers have done it again. Alex and Thomas Huber, along with Stephan Siegrist, just completed an Antarctic trip to Queen Maud Land. The trio successfully completed two massive new rock routes on the North Buttress of Holtanna and the West Buttress of Ulvetanna. To read more, click here and here.
Conditions Report -- Januray 28, 2009
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
A Climber on Mr. Z (III, 5.7)
Photo by Jason Martin
--The hours to the scenic drive recently changed. The BLM has begun to open the loop at 7 AM in order to save money. Please call Mark Tenaka-Sanders, the Las Vegas Field Office manager at 702-515-5365 to complain.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
Josh Harding enjoys another beautiful winter day in Joshua Tree.
--The climber's coffee program runs every Saturday morning and will begin to run both Saturday and Sunday mornings beginning in February. This program takes place in the Intersection Rock parking area and allows climbers and rangers to exchange ideas and information. Climbers generally meet at around eight in the morning.
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
Kevin Oberholser sends the short ice step on the Northeast Couloir of Argonaut Peak
Photo by David Kiehl
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
Siew Moi Khor on the Zipper on Lane Peak in Mount Rainier National Park
Photo by Joe Dumelin
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth and Highway 2.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest m ay be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.
--Icy conditions in the Pacific Northwest lead to a fair number of mountain ascents this weekend. Numerous parties climbed Chair Peak. A party climbed the ice on Bryant Peak. Many parties climbed the Zipper on Lane Peak. This party climbed the North Ridge of Mount Stuart. And this party climbed a steep couloir on Argonaut Peak in the Stuart Range.
--And though the conditions were icy, a lot of parties got out skiing too. This party skied Mount Rainier. This individual skied Mount Shuksan. And this party found decent snow near Blewett Pass.
SIERRA:
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
--There hasn't been a lot of snow in the Sierra this summer, but parties are still getting out and skiing. Large groups are now visiting Lee Vining Canyon to ice climb every weekend.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
--The Alaska season will start up in April. We are now accepting applications for our 2009 Denali expeditions and our 2009 Alaska Range Mountaineering Programs.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
A Climber on Mr. Z (III, 5.7)Photo by Jason Martin
--The hours to the scenic drive recently changed. The BLM has begun to open the loop at 7 AM in order to save money. Please call Mark Tenaka-Sanders, the Las Vegas Field Office manager at 702-515-5365 to complain.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
Josh Harding enjoys another beautiful winter day in Joshua Tree.Photo by Ian McEleney
--The climber's coffee program runs every Saturday morning and will begin to run both Saturday and Sunday mornings beginning in February. This program takes place in the Intersection Rock parking area and allows climbers and rangers to exchange ideas and information. Climbers generally meet at around eight in the morning.
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
Kevin Oberholser sends the short ice step on the Northeast Couloir of Argonaut PeakPhoto by David Kiehl
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
Siew Moi Khor on the Zipper on Lane Peak in Mount Rainier National ParkPhoto by Joe Dumelin
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest m ay be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.
--Icy conditions in the Pacific Northwest lead to a fair number of mountain ascents this weekend. Numerous parties climbed Chair Peak. A party climbed the ice on Bryant Peak. Many parties climbed the Zipper on Lane Peak. This party climbed the North Ridge of Mount Stuart. And this party climbed a steep couloir on Argonaut Peak in the Stuart Range.
--And though the conditions were icy, a lot of parties got out skiing too. This party skied Mount Rainier. This individual skied Mount Shuksan. And this party found decent snow near Blewett Pass.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Forecast for Denali
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
Arete Images
Here are some video stills of me on the arete I just did. Scott Neel shot these to use in the upcoming film "Rocky Mountain Highball." I think it is going to be premiering at the Boulder Theater some time in March.
Top names in the running so far are: "Firstborn" and "The Oldest Child". Vote on which you prefer in the gadget to the right - or suggest another name in this post.
Top names in the running so far are: "Firstborn" and "The Oldest Child". Vote on which you prefer in the gadget to the right - or suggest another name in this post.
Self-Arrest Techniques
Self-arrest is perhaps the most important skill that we practice in snow school. The British Mountaineering Council put together a nice video on the self-arrest techniques that one should practice.
Though this video is quite good, there are a couple of things that we teach differently:
Many people like wrist-leashes because they limit the possibility of dropping the axe. Our guides prefer them for steep terrain. There are two downsides to the constant use of a leash. First, it adds time to a turn, because the axe must be on the uphill side of your body. Moving the wrist-leash from one hand to the other many hundreds of times throughout the day adds time to the clock. Second, if you fall and lose control of the axe, it may become a liability. The last thing that you want in a fall is to be punctured by the axe.
Some people like to attach the ice-axe leash to their harness. This is a very bad place to attach a leash. Any loss of control during a fall could lead to a catastrophic torso puncture injury.
People are very adamant about wanting to use a wrist-leash while climbing for fear of dropping the axe. But really, how common is it for a climber to drop an axe? Not common at all. An ice axe is like a mountaineer's weapon. How many soldiers in the heat of battle drop their weapons? While mountain climbing is definitely not as intense as a war, it can be a dangerous pursuit and most climbers are unlikely to drop the most important tool they carry.
In preparing this blog, I watched a number of videos about self-arrest techniques. There were quite a few bad examples and indeed, some that were just flat dangerous. If you practice self-arrest, always wear a helmet and do not attach the leash of the axe to yourself. Always practice in a place where there is a good run-out. And be conservative in your practice of the head-first/stomach technique as this is a very easy one to get hurt practicing.
Jason D. Martin
Though this video is quite good, there are a couple of things that we teach differently:
- It is breezed over in the video, but the best way to self-arrest is to avoid falling. Good snow climbing technique should be practiced on low-angle slopes so that when you are on high-angle slopes it comes as second nature.
- We teach the piolet canne (cane) position as the baseline position. We only hold the piolet in the self-arrest position when it appears that a fall is likely. As the piolet canne position is the most stable walking position and it provides the most security, we like to see people move up the mountain in this position. One should practice self-arrest starting from the piolet canne position.
- There is some debate on whether you should put your feet up or not. The concern -- as the guide in the video points out -- is that if you put your feet down and your crampon points catch, that you might flip head-over-heels. On the other hand, it might stop you more quickly. We teach people to put their toes into the snow to arrest the fall.
Many people like wrist-leashes because they limit the possibility of dropping the axe. Our guides prefer them for steep terrain. There are two downsides to the constant use of a leash. First, it adds time to a turn, because the axe must be on the uphill side of your body. Moving the wrist-leash from one hand to the other many hundreds of times throughout the day adds time to the clock. Second, if you fall and lose control of the axe, it may become a liability. The last thing that you want in a fall is to be punctured by the axe.
Some people like to attach the ice-axe leash to their harness. This is a very bad place to attach a leash. Any loss of control during a fall could lead to a catastrophic torso puncture injury.
People are very adamant about wanting to use a wrist-leash while climbing for fear of dropping the axe. But really, how common is it for a climber to drop an axe? Not common at all. An ice axe is like a mountaineer's weapon. How many soldiers in the heat of battle drop their weapons? While mountain climbing is definitely not as intense as a war, it can be a dangerous pursuit and most climbers are unlikely to drop the most important tool they carry.
In preparing this blog, I watched a number of videos about self-arrest techniques. There were quite a few bad examples and indeed, some that were just flat dangerous. If you practice self-arrest, always wear a helmet and do not attach the leash of the axe to yourself. Always practice in a place where there is a good run-out. And be conservative in your practice of the head-first/stomach technique as this is a very easy one to get hurt practicing.
Jason D. Martin
February and March Climbing Events
--January 30-February 1 -- Munising, MI -- Michigan Ice Fest
--January 30-February 1 -- Jeffersonville, VT -- Smuggler's Notch Ice Bash
--January 31 -- Bishop, CA -- Peter Croft Slideshow
--January 31 -- Mojstrana, Slovenia -- Ice Climbing World Cup Comp
--February 5 -- Portland, OR -- Madrone Wall Fundraiser
--February 5-8 -- Busteni, Romania -- Ice Climbing World Cup Comp
--February 10 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Book Club Meeting
--February 13-16 -- Cody, WY -- South Fork Ice Festival
--February 20-21 -- Dayton, OH -- The Adventure Summit
--February 20-21 -- Vancouver, BC -- Vancouver Mountain Film Festival
--February 21 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Annual Benefit Dinner
--March 20-22 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Red Rock Rendezvous
--January 30-February 1 -- Jeffersonville, VT -- Smuggler's Notch Ice Bash
--January 31 -- Bishop, CA -- Peter Croft Slideshow
--January 31 -- Mojstrana, Slovenia -- Ice Climbing World Cup Comp
--February 5 -- Portland, OR -- Madrone Wall Fundraiser
--February 5-8 -- Busteni, Romania -- Ice Climbing World Cup Comp
--February 10 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Book Club Meeting
--February 13-16 -- Cody, WY -- South Fork Ice Festival
--February 20-21 -- Dayton, OH -- The Adventure Summit
--February 20-21 -- Vancouver, BC -- Vancouver Mountain Film Festival
--February 21 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Annual Benefit Dinner
--March 20-22 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Red Rock Rendezvous
AAI Ski Guide Training 2009 - A Photo Essay
AAI guides and staff, Richard Riquelme, Ben Traxler, Andy Bourne, Nick Webb, Justin Wood, and Forest McBrian, participated in a ski guides training course the second week of January. The group led by AMGA Ski Instructor Peter Leh found excellent weather conditions and challenging snow (note: there is no bad snow!) for the course located near the Mt. Baker ski resort. Guides were able to further develop their skills during the 2-day outing which included many useful ski-oriented workshops. Members practiced rescue drills, ski instruction, and terrain selection among many other topics within a peer critiqued course format.
This type of experience has been used within the profession to help facilitate a format in which guides can freely share ideas to come up with safe and creative ways to deal with a variety of situations one might encounter in the backcountry. All were thoroughly pleased with the outcome and made some great turns while they were at it! Thanks to Peter for such a great learning experience!
AMGA guide trainer Peter Leh explains ski anchors.
Mt. Shuksan shows her true colors at the end of the day.
Guide Justin Wood and Guide/victim Forest McBrian practice rescue sled construction
Guides contemplate hazard management in the Mt. Baker backcountry
Andy Bourne lays the tracks on the descent from the Herman saddle
Nick Webb demonstrates a kick turn on the way up Mt. Herman
-- Ben Traxler, AAI Guide
This type of experience has been used within the profession to help facilitate a format in which guides can freely share ideas to come up with safe and creative ways to deal with a variety of situations one might encounter in the backcountry. All were thoroughly pleased with the outcome and made some great turns while they were at it! Thanks to Peter for such a great learning experience!
AAI Staff Nick Webb demonstrates a jump turn!
AMGA guide trainer Peter Leh explains ski anchors.
Mt. Shuksan shows her true colors at the end of the day.
Guide Justin Wood and Guide/victim Forest McBrian practice rescue sled construction
Guides contemplate hazard management in the Mt. Baker backcountry
Andy Bourne lays the tracks on the descent from the Herman saddle
Nick Webb demonstrates a kick turn on the way up Mt. Herman-- Ben Traxler, AAI Guide
Snowy in Boulder
This photo was taken this morning - looks like outdoor climbing will be out for at least a few days. Fortunately I sent my arete project in the Flatirons yesterday (see photo on previous post). The crux move, and only move I hadn't previously done, gave me some serious hardships at first. I just couldn't get my body into a position that would allow me to move slowly enough to the next hold. I was a bit worried that it wasn't going to go down. I switched into a slightly tighter pair of shoes to dig into the small edge a bit more and tried the move a few more times. I finally stuck it when I tried to squeeze really hard. I also leaned my body out to get a slightly better look at the hold just before going - is it possible that this subtly different body position made all the difference? Psyched that I had a chance at doing the problem, I took my shoes off and rested to de-numb my feet and rest my skin. I sent the whole problem next go, though not without difficulty. I didn't really get any of the upper holds perfectly, but persisted. At the end there is a big dynamic to the lip which is quite scary because of the height and landing. When I got there I questioned trying the move for a sec because things weren't feeling perfect. Then I decided I had a good chance and realized that I didn't want to have to link through the crux again. I overshot the lip but then came down on it and stuck it. The mantle was casual and a new classic flatirons problem was born.
I'm thinking about calling it "The Oldest Child" but not fully decided yet - I'm open to suggestions. It lies just below a big climbing feature called the Matron and seems to be the biggest in the set of boulders, like the oldest sibling of the matron. I'm thinking that it's probably V11 though it could be V12 - other people will have to try it and give their opinion (would definitely be V12 in hot weather). I think the problem is 3 stars (perhaps 3-). It's a beautiful feature in a beautiful setting with cool moves. The main detractions are a rocky landing (though no dab potential) and sharp holds. I'm lucky that I did it yesterday because the gully in which it resides will be closed from Feb 1 to sometime in July or August.
We got the send on video too and it should be part of the movie coming out soon, "Rocky Mountain Highball." Hopefully I'll have some video stills to post here soon.
Psyched on a cool FA!!! Perhaps my first good bouldering FA in Boulder.
Winter Recreation Opportunities at Denali National Park
AAI received this email from Denali National Park on Friday:
Denali National Park and Preserve News Release
January 23, 2009
For Immediate Release
Contact: Maureen McLaughlin (907) 733-9103
Ranger Hikes and Other Winter Recreation Opportunities at Denali National Park and Preserve
Park rangers at Denali National Park and Preserve invite the public to join them in exploring the park on weekend hikes this winter. The hikes will be done on snowshoes when snow conditions are favorable, and will take place on Saturdays and Sundays, beginning on Saturday, January 31, 2009. Hikers will meet at 1:00 p.m. at the Murie Science and Learning Center (MSLC), located at Mile 1.3 on the Park Road just west of the traffic circle.
The hikes will take place on trails in the park’s entrance area, providing opportunities to experience and learn about the winter environment of the park and interior Alaska. A limited number of snowshoes are available at the MSLC for use on the hike, and those interested in participating are encouraged to bring their own equipment. The programs will last for 2 to 3 hours. Participants are advised to dress warmly and bring lunch or snacks. The hikes will not take place if temperatures are colder than -10ºF.
Besides the ranger-led weekend hikes, winter visitors have several recreation and learning opportunities in the entrance area of Denali National Park and Preserve. A new winter trails map is available at the MSLC showing ski and snowshoe routes of varying difficulties and lengths. Inside the MSLC, visitors can view exhibits on winter ecology, wildlife and park research, watch documentary videos about Denali, and warm up after a ski or hike. Visitors may plug in vehicles during the day at the MSLC parking lot.
Denali National Park and Preserve collects an entrance fee year-round. The entrance fee of $10 per person or $20 per vehicle is good for seven days. The majority of the money collected remains in the park to be used for projects to improve visitor services and facilities. Interagency Federal Recreation Passes such as the Annual, Senior, and Access Pass, and the Denali Annual Pass are also valid for entry into the park and can be purchased at the MSLC.
Additional information on winter activities is available at the Murie Science and Learning Center from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. daily, by calling (907) 683-9532, or on the park website at www.nps.gov/dena. Near the park entrance, drivers may listen to visitor information on the radio at 1610 AM.
Breaking News -- Clif Bars and Luna Bars Recalled!
From CNN:
It's not just inside neon orange crackers or slathered on the other side of jelly.
Peanut butter is everywhere.
Products including Trader Joe's celery with peanut butter packs and nutrition bars from Clif Bar, NutriSystem and Luna are among the 125-plus products recalled in a salmonella outbreak.
Cookie dough, candy and even dog treats have been affected as authorities attempt to track down what products contain the contaminated peanut butter and peanut paste.
To read more, click here.
Climbers beware! Clif Bars and Luna Bars both made the list of potentially dangerous peanut products!
--Jason D. Martin
Featureless arete climbing
Aretes have always been one of my favorite features to climb on - bouldering or roped. They come in all shapes and can require very different styles of climbing. Plus they almost always have a distinct aesthetic line. One interesting arete type is the slightly overhanging blunt prow. Partage in Font is a great example of this. These problems always require subtle body movements, strong footwork, and poor handholds. It is really amazing the what can be a hold on an arete, like a little dish that wouldn't be a good foot hold on a face of the same angle. What makes these holds useable is the fact that you can contort your body to the other side of the arete and reach around the arete to grab the hold. In doing this, you essentially change the angle of the hold by the angle of the arete. This is often the trick to climbing hard aretes. Another aspect of this type of arete climbing is the tension you keep between one hand and the opposite foot. It's a really cool feeling to be clamping the arete between a right hand sloper and a left toe smear or heel hook.
What brought up this topic, you ask? Well, yesterday I tried this project that Andy Mann showed me that pretty much fits this bill. At first we were convinced that it wouldn't go because there weren't enough holds. Then I started trying the moves and surprised myself by what was holdable. I ended up figuring out beta for all the moves and successfully did all but one. It turned out to be really cool in the subtlties of holds and body positions. It's a bit sharp and crimpy which makes it slightly less pleasant than something like the near-5 star Partage. Still I'm pretty psyched. I'll have to go back soon and try to send the whole thing. It will definitely be intersting as the top is about 15ft above the talus and the last move is a dynamic move for the lip off of a small crimp that could easily pop. I did the move on TR a few times because we only had two pads. Hopefully the weather holds around Boulder long enough for me to give another go on this.
Here's a picture of me trying this project taken by Andy Mann. Below are two photos of me climbing Partage during my trip to France last March. The conditions were perfect that day and I eeked out a flash of this amazing problem (perhaps the first flash). Needless to say, this was one of my greatest climbing achievements and was a truly special experience.
What brought up this topic, you ask? Well, yesterday I tried this project that Andy Mann showed me that pretty much fits this bill. At first we were convinced that it wouldn't go because there weren't enough holds. Then I started trying the moves and surprised myself by what was holdable. I ended up figuring out beta for all the moves and successfully did all but one. It turned out to be really cool in the subtlties of holds and body positions. It's a bit sharp and crimpy which makes it slightly less pleasant than something like the near-5 star Partage. Still I'm pretty psyched. I'll have to go back soon and try to send the whole thing. It will definitely be intersting as the top is about 15ft above the talus and the last move is a dynamic move for the lip off of a small crimp that could easily pop. I did the move on TR a few times because we only had two pads. Hopefully the weather holds around Boulder long enough for me to give another go on this.
Here's a picture of me trying this project taken by Andy Mann. Below are two photos of me climbing Partage during my trip to France last March. The conditions were perfect that day and I eeked out a flash of this amazing problem (perhaps the first flash). Needless to say, this was one of my greatest climbing achievements and was a truly special experience.
2009 Ouray Ice Festival - History is Made
The 2009 Ouray Ice Festival came to a close on Sunday Jan 11. This is the biggest ice festival held in this country, and it is an amazing event. Officials say that 1000 climbers attended this year’s festival. People of all ages and from all corners of the world attended the fundraising event. There were many activities that filled the evening line up. Slideshows, auctions and dinners are all avenues for funds to be raised. All money raised goes to the operation and maintenance of the free Ouray Ice Park.
The Petzl dance party is always the crazy crescendo of the event. It is the only time a year that the quiet mountain town of Ouray has a DJ dance party. “Beach party” was the theme this year, and people did not hold back on their costumes. A lot of flesh was exposed, and the party raged through the night.
The award ceremony marked the end of the event. Josh Wharton won the men’s division as well as the overall title. In the women’s division, history was made. It is the first time that an Ouray local has taken first place. Dawn Glanc, an AAI Guide and a winter resident of Ouray, won the women’s division.
The event was a success. Many climbers attended the clinics and demoed new gear. Climbers new to the sport and sponsored athletes all came together in one park to enjoy a unique event that celebrates the sport of ice climbing. Crucial money was raised so that this amazing park will be available in the future. I believe everyone is already looking forward to next year’s festival.
-- Dawn Glanc
The Petzl dance party is always the crazy crescendo of the event. It is the only time a year that the quiet mountain town of Ouray has a DJ dance party. “Beach party” was the theme this year, and people did not hold back on their costumes. A lot of flesh was exposed, and the party raged through the night.
Dawn Glanc, an AAI Guide and winner of the women's division in the Ouray Ice Festival
The award ceremony marked the end of the event. Josh Wharton won the men’s division as well as the overall title. In the women’s division, history was made. It is the first time that an Ouray local has taken first place. Dawn Glanc, an AAI Guide and a winter resident of Ouray, won the women’s division.
The event was a success. Many climbers attended the clinics and demoed new gear. Climbers new to the sport and sponsored athletes all came together in one park to enjoy a unique event that celebrates the sport of ice climbing. Crucial money was raised so that this amazing park will be available in the future. I believe everyone is already looking forward to next year’s festival.
-- Dawn Glanc
Appropriations Pay for Roads, Trails, Facilities
AAI just received this email about storm damage in Washington's National Forests:
Olympic and Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forests repair old storm damage
The Olympic and Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forests can start work this year repairing storm damaged roads, trails and facilities with special funds appropriated by Congress in September 2008. The Pacific Northwest Region approved 10.3 million dollars worth of projects last week, with those two forests obtaining 60 percent of the funds to pay for storm damage, some of it dating back to 2003.
With this money the Forest Service will improve public access and benefit the environment. “Repairing roads and removing other roads will reduce the risk of future road failures, controls road-related sediment production, and restores riparian vegetation, all of which will improve water quality and fish habitat,” said Amy Lieb, soil and sater program manager for the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
“It is crucial to repair and maintain our roads to high quality standards so they provide healthy watersheds and clean water. The Olympic National Forest has been hit hard over the past several years and these dollars are welcome as we make these much-needed improvements,” said Dale Hom, forest supervisor. Funds for that forest total $4,646,163, with $4,104,663 going to repair roads damaged during the 2007 and 2008 floods. The forest will remove 31 miles of road and treat nine miles of road to require minimal maintenance. This money will also upgrade eight culverts and repair one bridge. Engineers expect to finish road repairs in two to three years.
The $273,500 for trails on the Olympic National Forest will restore three major trails, including the Bogachiel Rain Forest Trail, which is part of the Pacific Northwest Trail system and popular access to the Olympic National Forest and the National Park. Trail repairs include:
--Quinault National Recreation Trail, repair, reroute and remove heavy blowdown.
--Quinault Rain Forest Interpretive Trail, the most heavily used trail on the Olympic National Forest, will be resurfaced and rerouted, with signs, a handrail and bulletin board repaired.
--Bogachiel Rain Forest Trail, remove blowdown trees, resurface the trail and repair water crossings.
The Olympic National Forest’s $268,000 facilities funding will fix roofs on seven administrative buildings in the Quinault area, repair the Hoodsport workcenter and restore the Hamma Hamma, Willaby and Klahowya campgrounds. The forest plans to finish the trails and facilities projects by 2010.
The Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest funding totals $2,711,396. “Our focus will be on sustainable fixes. We are very pleased to have received the funding to start the repair work,” said Forest Supervisor Rob Iwamoto. He added that these repairs are important to ensure public safety. The $2,057,996 for roads will rebuild three bridges; repair one road and remove nine miles of road no longer needed for management or public access purposes, and should be finished by the end of this year. Some of these projects will restore road access to Glacier Peak Wilderness trailheads inaccessible for nearly six years.
Funds totaling $653,400 will repair trail damage on the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. These funds will allow planning to be completed and permanent repairs to be made on several popular trails, including Big Four Ice Caves and Skookum Flats, damaged in 2006 storms. The Forest will complete bridge repairs to the Heliotrope Ridge Trail, on the north side of Mt. Baker, and design a new crossing of the West Fork Foss River. The West Fork Foss River trail leads to popular Trout, Copper and Heart Lakes in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Work on these projects is expected to be complete by the end of 2010. Other trail repairs include:
--Suiattle River Trail, repair washed out tread, remove windfall and heavy brush.
--Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, do maintenance work between Milk Creek and Vista Creek.
--North Fork Sauk Trail, repair puncheon bridges and replace a footlog.
--Baker Lake Trail, move washed-out sections of trail. Repair Blum and Hidden Creek bridges.
--West Cady Ridge/Pass Creek Trails, repair drainage structures.
--Whitechuck Bench Trail, complete planning to relocate washed out sections of trail. Remove brush and remove windfall trees from two miles of trail.
--Iron Goat Trail, replace puncheon bridge near Wellington.
Results from MLK Weekend
What a weekend! Although the wind blew a little more than I was hoping, I think a good time was had by everyone.
Here’s the rundown on the park’s visitation over the weekend…
Cars Entering the Park Through Nisqually Entrance
1/17 (Saturday) 532 cars
1/18 (Sunday) 586 cars
1/19 (Monday) 400 cars (approx)
This is around 3500 people, many of whom skied, snowshoed, and climbed. People just day skiing reported various conditions, largely dependent on aspect, elevation, and time of day. But reports of nice spring corn were often the case. However, the road is open right now, but when I got here at 10:30, there entire parking lot was empty!
On the upper mountain, there a slight inconsistency with what people register to climb, and what they actually end up climbing, but here’s how it shakes down from the computer’s perspective:
1/17/09 to 1/19/09
Route------# Climbers------# Summits------%Success
DC-----------4-----------------2----------------50
FF-----------4-----------------2----------------50
GL-----------14----------------11---------------78
ID-----------8-----------------5----------------62
LT-----------5-----------------0----------------0
NIF----------2-----------------2----------------100
A 60 percent summit rate for this time of year is absolutely fabulous. I was psyched to see so many safe climbs.
And thanks to you who sent in route conditions reports!
Here’s the rundown on the park’s visitation over the weekend…
Cars Entering the Park Through Nisqually Entrance
1/17 (Saturday) 532 cars
1/18 (Sunday) 586 cars
1/19 (Monday) 400 cars (approx)
This is around 3500 people, many of whom skied, snowshoed, and climbed. People just day skiing reported various conditions, largely dependent on aspect, elevation, and time of day. But reports of nice spring corn were often the case. However, the road is open right now, but when I got here at 10:30, there entire parking lot was empty!
On the upper mountain, there a slight inconsistency with what people register to climb, and what they actually end up climbing, but here’s how it shakes down from the computer’s perspective:
1/17/09 to 1/19/09
Route------# Climbers------# Summits------%Success
DC-----------4-----------------2----------------50
FF-----------4-----------------2----------------50
GL-----------14----------------11---------------78
ID-----------8-----------------5----------------62
LT-----------5-----------------0----------------0
NIF----------2-----------------2----------------100
A 60 percent summit rate for this time of year is absolutely fabulous. I was psyched to see so many safe climbs.
And thanks to you who sent in route conditions reports!
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- January 22, 2009
Northwest:
Mount Hood in the Winter
--A 45-year-old Mt. Hood climber suffered leg injuries after falling ice caused him to fall about 200 feet on Saturday, according to the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office. The experienced climber, who is also a Portland Mountain Rescue member, was ascending with two other climbers at 10:30 a.m. near the Hogsback at about the 10,000-foot elevation when the ice hit, said Jim Strovink, sheriff's office spokesman. To read more, click here and here.
--There have been at least five deaths on Aconcagua in the Argentinian Andes this season. One of those who died was northwest local, Arthur DeLisle of Edmonds, Washington. It appears that DeLisle was killed by rockfall while soloing. It is not clear which route the man was on when the accident took place. To read more, click here and here.
Sierra:
--There is not a lot of snow in the Sierra! Midway through January, the snowpack measurement at Mammoth Pass shows the water content of the snow to be about half of what is normal for this time of year. December ended big for Mammoth. Mammoth Mountain Ski Area shows 174” inches, or 14’ 6”, of snow for the year. The storms that brought 123” of snow to Mammoth Mountain in December were relatively cold leading to light powdery snow. While light fluffy snow is fantastic for skiing, it doesn’t pack as much water content as the famous “sierra cement,” type snow. The DWP website lists only 11.3” inches of water content for Mammoth Pass, 52% of long term mean for that important measuring site. Bishop Creek, Big Pine Creek and other sites all check in at about half the normal amount of snow for this time of year. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--A few weeks ago, an unusual climbing accident rocked the Australian climbing community. Nick Kaczorowski, known locally as Nick Kaz, was killed on Friday, January 2nd in an accident at Pierces Pass in the Blue Mountains. What's unusual about the situation is that the bolt that the victim was clipped to pulled out. What is absolutely terrifying is that local guide Simon Carter was able to pull out a number of other bolts on the route with his fingers! Carter wrote an article about the accident and about the bad bolts. To read the blog, click here.
A massive powder avalanche tears down a slope.
--There have been 31 avalanche fatalites this year in North America. Sixteen took place in the United States and fifteen in Canada. This big year of avalanche fatalities has brought this backcountry danger to the forefront in the mainstream media. The New York Times recently reported on Professor Ed Adams, a snow science researcher at Montana State University. To read the article about this snow scientist, click here.
--On the evening of Friday, January 16th someone broke into the Harvard Mountaineering Club's clubroom in Cambridge, Massachusetts and stole dozens of their rare books. It appears that several early American Alpine Journals were stolen, along with their entire collection of Die Alpen. If you run across someone selling a large collection of rare mountaineering books, please contact the Harvard Mountaineering Club.
Reinhold Messner
--Italy's greatest living mountaineer, Reinhold Messner, came under fire on Monday for allegedly suggesting that climbers should not rope themselves together. Giving a television interview after four Italian climbers fell to their deaths on the French side of Mont Blanc on Saturday, Messner said it was possible to ''learn something from such accidents." To read more, click here.
--Height of Land Publications (HOL), owners of Backcountry and Telemark Skier Magazines, closed on a deal on Friday that lays the groundwork for the resurrection of Alpinist Magazine. Alpinist, a premium quarterly celebrating mountaineering and the climbing life, closed its doors this fall, just prior to the release of Issue 26. The new owners, HOL, plan to release Issue 26 on March 1, and will honor all current subscriptions. To read more, click here and here.
--Ines Papert and Cory Richards climbed a new ice route on the north face of Kwangde (19,721') in Nepal. The team sent the peak in a four and a half-day round trip. To read more, click here.
--Uli Steck doesn't mess around. Just three weeks ago, he soloed the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours and 21 minutes. On February 21st, 2008, he raced up the North Face of the Eiger in 2 hours and 47 minutes. Now the alpinist has climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn in 1 hour and 56 minutes. If there is an animal in the modern world of alpinism, then Uli Steck is surly it. To read more, click here.
--Last week, Climbing magazine announced the 2008 Golden Piton awards. This is the award that the magazine bestows for climbing achievement to individuals in a variety of climbing disciplines. A complete write-up on each of the winners will appear in Climbing #272. Following is a list of the winners.
Mount Hood in the Winter--A 45-year-old Mt. Hood climber suffered leg injuries after falling ice caused him to fall about 200 feet on Saturday, according to the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office. The experienced climber, who is also a Portland Mountain Rescue member, was ascending with two other climbers at 10:30 a.m. near the Hogsback at about the 10,000-foot elevation when the ice hit, said Jim Strovink, sheriff's office spokesman. To read more, click here and here.
--There have been at least five deaths on Aconcagua in the Argentinian Andes this season. One of those who died was northwest local, Arthur DeLisle of Edmonds, Washington. It appears that DeLisle was killed by rockfall while soloing. It is not clear which route the man was on when the accident took place. To read more, click here and here.
Sierra:
--There is not a lot of snow in the Sierra! Midway through January, the snowpack measurement at Mammoth Pass shows the water content of the snow to be about half of what is normal for this time of year. December ended big for Mammoth. Mammoth Mountain Ski Area shows 174” inches, or 14’ 6”, of snow for the year. The storms that brought 123” of snow to Mammoth Mountain in December were relatively cold leading to light powdery snow. While light fluffy snow is fantastic for skiing, it doesn’t pack as much water content as the famous “sierra cement,” type snow. The DWP website lists only 11.3” inches of water content for Mammoth Pass, 52% of long term mean for that important measuring site. Bishop Creek, Big Pine Creek and other sites all check in at about half the normal amount of snow for this time of year. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--A few weeks ago, an unusual climbing accident rocked the Australian climbing community. Nick Kaczorowski, known locally as Nick Kaz, was killed on Friday, January 2nd in an accident at Pierces Pass in the Blue Mountains. What's unusual about the situation is that the bolt that the victim was clipped to pulled out. What is absolutely terrifying is that local guide Simon Carter was able to pull out a number of other bolts on the route with his fingers! Carter wrote an article about the accident and about the bad bolts. To read the blog, click here.
A massive powder avalanche tears down a slope.--On the evening of Friday, January 16th someone broke into the Harvard Mountaineering Club's clubroom in Cambridge, Massachusetts and stole dozens of their rare books. It appears that several early American Alpine Journals were stolen, along with their entire collection of Die Alpen. If you run across someone selling a large collection of rare mountaineering books, please contact the Harvard Mountaineering Club.
Reinhold Messner--Italy's greatest living mountaineer, Reinhold Messner, came under fire on Monday for allegedly suggesting that climbers should not rope themselves together. Giving a television interview after four Italian climbers fell to their deaths on the French side of Mont Blanc on Saturday, Messner said it was possible to ''learn something from such accidents." To read more, click here.
--Height of Land Publications (HOL), owners of Backcountry and Telemark Skier Magazines, closed on a deal on Friday that lays the groundwork for the resurrection of Alpinist Magazine. Alpinist, a premium quarterly celebrating mountaineering and the climbing life, closed its doors this fall, just prior to the release of Issue 26. The new owners, HOL, plan to release Issue 26 on March 1, and will honor all current subscriptions. To read more, click here and here.
--Ines Papert and Cory Richards climbed a new ice route on the north face of Kwangde (19,721') in Nepal. The team sent the peak in a four and a half-day round trip. To read more, click here.
Uli Steck on his Eiger speed run. Beware, this video is in German,
but it is still well worth watching this world class climber move.
but it is still well worth watching this world class climber move.
--Uli Steck doesn't mess around. Just three weeks ago, he soloed the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours and 21 minutes. On February 21st, 2008, he raced up the North Face of the Eiger in 2 hours and 47 minutes. Now the alpinist has climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn in 1 hour and 56 minutes. If there is an animal in the modern world of alpinism, then Uli Steck is surly it. To read more, click here.
--Last week, Climbing magazine announced the 2008 Golden Piton awards. This is the award that the magazine bestows for climbing achievement to individuals in a variety of climbing disciplines. A complete write-up on each of the winners will appear in Climbing #272. Following is a list of the winners.
- --Chris Sharma (sport)
- --Beth Rodden (trad)
- --Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, and Katsutaka Yokoyama (alpine)
- --Tommy Caldwell (big wall)
- --Paul Robinson (bouldering)
- --Alex Honnold (solo)
- --Malcolm Daly (humanitarian)
- --Alex Johnson (breakaway success)
Stronger fingers, more endurance, less body weight
I watched this movie, "Bigger, Stronger, Faster," yesterday and it got me thinking about the use of performance enhancing drugs in climbing. Fortunately to my knowledge, very few people in our sport engage is this sort of stuff. There are probably several main reasons. 1) there is not much money to be made in this sport, 2) the sport is less competitive than other sports, 3) climbers don't generally have lots of money to spend on this sort of thing, and 4) most climbers think pot is all the performance enhancement needed.
This movie focuses on the use of anabolic steroids in sports including weight lifting, baseball, and running. The movie tries to make a comment on American society in general, but I think it falls short in this aim. Instead it is just an interesting review of the pros and cons of steroid use. One interesting point is that there is very little medical evidence showing that steroid use is any more dangerous for a person than many over-the-counter drugs. It is 142 on the list of most common drugs related to ER visits - not very high (lower than asprin and multi-vitamins). Additionaly, there are few studies that link it to long term illness. It seems that the main reason the use of anabolic steroids is illegal is that use of them by prominent athletes sets a bad example for children.
Surprisingly, I came away from the movie thinking that steroids are really not that bad. I don't think I would ever use them because I don't like foreign substances in my body and I'm not too fond of needles. I'm glad that they are not really used in climbing because if they were, I think I would be more tempted to use them also. Even though climbing is a personal pursuit, most people end up measuring their accomplishments with respect to others. A big question is would steroids even help in a sport like climbing where strength to weight ratio is critical? I'm not sure they would be good for route climbing, but perhaps they could be beneficial for bouldering.
An even more controversial issue that will face sports in the near future is genetic modification. In the movie they show a cow that produces twice as much muscle as a normal cow because of a genetic modification. This cow is ridiculously ripped and takes no steroids or anything else. As genetic enhancements become prevalant - if they are legally allowed - it will be very hard to compare the athletic accomplishments of two individuals. Certainly harder things will be accomplished, but can you attribute the athlete or the geneticist? Of course genetics already play huge role in a sport like climbing - there are certain people who have the perfect body for climbing. This is the luck of the draw though and there are many examples of people with non-perfect genetics still excelling. But when bodies are crafted exactly for the sport, things may be different.
Climbing is lucky that it can be a strongly personal pursuit so people will always be able to try to improve upon their personal bests. Also one doesn't need to be pushing the limit to fully enjoy the sport. So the value of climbing will never be taken away. Still things could change. In some ways, this debate is similar to the debates around the use of chalk, sticky rubber shoes, cams, bolts, hangdogging, knee bar pads, etc. It seems to be of a different nature though. Any thoughts?
Conditions Report -- January 21, 2009
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
A climber on Abbey Road (5.5)
Photo by Jason Martin
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The hours to the scenic drive recently changed. The BLM has begun to open the loop at 7 AM in order to save money. Please call Mark Tenaka-Sanders, the Las Vegas Field Office manager at 702-515-5365 to complain.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Par k.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
Eric Braswell on Sail Away (5.8)
Photo by Paulina Vashavskaya
--The climber's coffee program runs every Saturday morning and will begin to run both Saturday and Sunday mornings beginning in February. This program takes place in the Intersection Rock parking area and allows climbers and rangers to exchange ideas and information. Climbers generally meet at around eight in the morning.
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
Sunrise over Gibraltar Rock on the Gibraltar Ledges Route on Mount Rainier on Saturday
Photo by Matt Clifton
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth and Highway 2.
John Mauro, Josh Stern and Jim Cronan traverse Eightmile Mountain
Mount Stuart is in the background.
Photo by Matthew Peters
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest m ay be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.
--After all the crazy weather in the Pacific Northwest, a high pressure inversion made it's way into the area. And though the warm air didn't lead to stellar ice, it still lead to a lot of ascents. Perhaps the most interesting ascent over the weekend took place on Dragontail Peak. This party made the first complete winter ascent of the Backbone Ridge on Dragontail. This party climbed the Gibraltar Ledges route on Mount Rainier. And t his party -- which included former AAI Guide Gene Pires -- climbed the South Face of the Tooth.
--The inversion didn't lead to great ski conditions. Indeed, it was quite icy in the backcountry over the weekend...but nobody stayed inside and a lot of parties got out skiing all over the range. This party skied Mount Snoqualmie and Red Mountain. This party skied Mount Baker's Easton Glacier. And this party skied Eightmile Mountain above Leavenworth.
--So this is weird, the National Park Service is counting skiers who use the chairlifts at the Crystal Mountain Ski resort who access the backcountry. The NPS sees the use of the resort as a means to access the backcountry inside the Mount Rainier National Park as a violation of Crystal's Commercial Use Authorization. Because they consider this to be commercial use on park lands, they have been trying to limit access. To read more, click here and here.
Alice Bremmer on Mount Baker's Easton Glacier
Photo by Stacy Moon
--Speaking of Mount Rainier, it appears the the road to Paradise will only be open on weekends and holidays until the spring. To read more, click here.
--The Forest Service has delayed opening the Mount Index Road (Forest Service Road 6020) until possibly Friday. It is now open temporarily to local residents 6 p.m. to 7 a.m. daily.
SIERRA:
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
--The Alaska season is over until April of 2009, but we are already in the process of gearing up for it. We are now accepting applications for our 2009 Denali expeditions.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
A climber on Abbey Road (5.5)Photo by Jason Martin
--The hours to the scenic drive recently changed. The BLM has begun to open the loop at 7 AM in order to save money. Please call Mark Tenaka-Sanders, the Las Vegas Field Office manager at 702-515-5365 to complain.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Par k.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
Eric Braswell on Sail Away (5.8)Photo by Paulina Vashavskaya
--The climber's coffee program runs every Saturday morning and will begin to run both Saturday and Sunday mornings beginning in February. This program takes place in the Intersection Rock parking area and allows climbers and rangers to exchange ideas and information. Climbers generally meet at around eight in the morning.
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
Stacy Moon skiing Mount Baker's Easton Glacier on Saturday
Photo by Toby Tortorelli
Photo by Toby Tortorelli
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
Sunrise over Gibraltar Rock on the Gibraltar Ledges Route on Mount Rainier on SaturdayPhoto by Matt Clifton
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth and Highway 2.
John Mauro, Josh Stern and Jim Cronan traverse Eightmile MountainMount Stuart is in the background.
Photo by Matthew Peters
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest m ay be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.
John Plotz on the First Complete Winter Ascent of the Backbone (IV, 5.9) on Dragontail Peak.
Photo by Ade Miller -- For more cool shots see Ade's Website
Photo by Ade Miller -- For more cool shots see Ade's Website
--After all the crazy weather in the Pacific Northwest, a high pressure inversion made it's way into the area. And though the warm air didn't lead to stellar ice, it still lead to a lot of ascents. Perhaps the most interesting ascent over the weekend took place on Dragontail Peak. This party made the first complete winter ascent of the Backbone Ridge on Dragontail. This party climbed the Gibraltar Ledges route on Mount Rainier. And t his party -- which included former AAI Guide Gene Pires -- climbed the South Face of the Tooth.
--The inversion didn't lead to great ski conditions. Indeed, it was quite icy in the backcountry over the weekend...but nobody stayed inside and a lot of parties got out skiing all over the range. This party skied Mount Snoqualmie and Red Mountain. This party skied Mount Baker's Easton Glacier. And this party skied Eightmile Mountain above Leavenworth.
--So this is weird, the National Park Service is counting skiers who use the chairlifts at the Crystal Mountain Ski resort who access the backcountry. The NPS sees the use of the resort as a means to access the backcountry inside the Mount Rainier National Park as a violation of Crystal's Commercial Use Authorization. Because they consider this to be commercial use on park lands, they have been trying to limit access. To read more, click here and here.
Alice Bremmer on Mount Baker's Easton GlacierPhoto by Stacy Moon
--The Forest Service has delayed opening the Mount Index Road (Forest Service Road 6020) until possibly Friday. It is now open temporarily to local residents 6 p.m. to 7 a.m. daily.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
A climber sending in Lee Vining a couple of weeks ago.
Photo by Rob Yang
--Though it's still not in prime condition, parties are climbing in Lee Vining. This party made their way in a few weeks ago and found plenty of stuff to do.Photo by Rob Yang
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Forecast for Denali
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
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