NORTHWEST:
Looking down Gran Torino on the SE Face of the SW Peak of Dome. Photo by Mike Layton
--Mike Layton and Wayne Wallace established a new route on the SW peak of Dome Peak. The route is called Gran Torino (IV 5.9+ 15p). The route was climbed on July 15 and ascends the impressive SE Face over what looks to be incredibly fun and challenging climbing. To read more about this first ascent click here.
--The road to Artist's Point above the Mt. Baker Ski Area is now open. Besides providing access to some of the most amazing alpine scenery that you can drive to in the lower 48 it also provides access to the Lake Anne/Fisher Chimneys on Mt. Shuksan as well as the Ptarmigan Ridge and the Park and Mazama Glaciers on Mt. Baker. Click here for pictures of the road work.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.
The Pocket Glacier from high on the Northeast Buttress of Slesse. Photo by Scott Burrell
--Scott Burrell and friends recently climbed the iconic Northeast Buttress of Mt. Slesse. After a harrowing sprint below the pocket glacier to access the route they found enjoyable climbing to the summit and then had a bit of an interesting descent. To read the full trip report click here.
--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.
--One of our guides Kurt Hicks recently returned from leading a 12 day Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership courses. Here are some notes regarding the current conditions he found while on the trip:
South Side of Baker: No toilets, lots of poo, treat your water! Running water available near Sandy Camp. Icefall cramponing slope is snow free but dirty. No great slots near Sandy Camp for crevasse rescue. Easton is in good shape but there is the same old huge slot around 8700 ft. 'Schrund is easily passed on the left or the right. The trail is snow free with only one small downed tree.Washington Pass: Snow free trail up to the South Arete. Bug are out. Afternoon thunderstorms are cycling through. Burgandy Col approach is snow free as well. There is some water available on both approaches. Lots of flies and hornets at Early Winter campground.
--Here are a couple updates from our friends up north about the current Bugaboo conditions.
Up a the Kain hut from July 11 - 15. Great travel conditions on the Crescent, Vowel, and Pigeon glaciers with penetration in the late pm only to boot top despite no overnight freeze. All the routes of the Crescent Towers area are dry; NE Ridge on Bugaboo has snow on the very bottom of the route but otherwise dry (I suspect that the upper chimneys still hold snow); Kain route is dry and in good shape. West facing Snowpatch Routes in good shape. W Ridge of Pigeon is dry to the small col between the 2nd and 3rd summits. Snow from there to the summit; we did not use crampons but did take ice axes. Bugaboo/Snowpatch col is in good shape with the schrunds just starting to show with good footing and a nice line of steps up it. We had a great day cragging on the nice cracks of lower Applebee Dome.Cheers,James BlenchUIAGM
--We have recently received a couple updates regarding current Squamish conditions. Click here to read more.
SIERRA:
--After a recent trip up the Mountaineer's Route on Mt. Whitney our guide Ian McEleney reported the following conditions as of July 11th.
"Most people will want an ice axe, but could probably get away without crampons and boots if they're careful. The trail in is snow free. In the gully there is a short section of snow (maybe about 200 feet) that was pretty soft and might be doable without boots. From the notch to the summit via the couloir there is still some snow but this can be navigated around fairly easily. The Northwest Traverse finish is still snowy but is melting quickly."
--For information regarding wall closures due to falcon nesting in Yosemite National Park, click here.
--We recently stumbled upon a very interesting and entertaining blog written by Bruce Willey about climbing in the Sierras. To read this nice piece of writing click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
--The snow is melting very fast in the Alaska Range this year. This is in part due to the ash on the glaciers from the Redoubt volcano. All of the major landing strips are melting out. Strips on the Kahiltna, the Ruth and on the Pika are all in poor shape. Access to the range will be limited in the very near future.
--The snow is melting very fast in the Alaska Range this year. This is in part due to the ash on the glaciers from the Redoubt volcano. All of the major landing strips are melting out. Strips on the Kahiltna, the Ruth and on the Pika are all in poor shape. Access to the range will be limited in the very near future.
ALPS:
--The climbing season in the Alps has begun and we are accepting applications for our 2009 climbs of Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger and many other peaks in France and Switzerland. Please call our office (360-671-1505) for current availability.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
