Conditions Report -- August 26, 2009

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--The Hannegan Road on the Mt. Baker Highway reopened on Aug. 5. This road gives access to many great mountains and hikes in the Mt. Baker Wilderness and North Cascades National Park.

--The Glacier Creek Road, which provides access to the north side of Mt. Baker, is currently closed to all public access while road crews work on clearing the debris blocking the road. This is expected to last until August 28 and any violators will be subject to heavy fines.

--The road to Artist's Point above the Mt. Baker Ski Area is now open. Besides providing access to some of the most amazing alpine scenery that you can drive to in the lower 48 it also provides access to the Lake Anne/Fisher Chimneys on Mt. Shuksan as well as the Ptarmigan Ridge and the Park and Mazama Glaciers on Mt. Baker. Click here for pictures of the road work.


The Easton Glacier on Mt. Baker. Photo by Kurt Hicks

--AAI Guide Kurt Hicks reported the following conditions on the South Side of Mt. Baker as of August 7, 2009:


A lot has changed on the Easton Glacier over the past three weeks. The amount of snow cover has decreased dramatically, resulting in much more dangerous travel conditions. The winter snow pack has melted off to about 6500', leaving blue glacial ice; the snow line was about 5000' a couple weeks ago, with a few feet of snow covering the ice. What a difference!

Travel conditions are tolerable. There are a number of crevasses between 8700-9000' that have sketchy bridges across them. Hidden slots abound, only marked by where someone has put a leg through--most of these bridges are not sagging an appear to be quite thin over cavernous cracks. The best plan is to start quite early and be back off the glacier well before noon.


--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.


--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.

--The Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth is now open after a closure due to peregrine falcon nesting. The wall re-opened on July 15th. For more information and other conditions in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest click here.

--We have recently received a couple updates regarding current Squamish conditions. Click here to read more.

--We received the following report regarding current conditions in the Bugaboos:

The following is a report from Tay Hason, Senior Park Ranger for BC Parks. A major rockfall event occurred yesterday (Aug. 11) that originated from above the climber's right side of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. Coincidently, the old rap stations on the side of the col had been removed the previous day because of rockfall concerns. Also note that a new toilet was installed at Applebee to relieve the morning line-ups!

Rain initiated rock and mud slide on 090711 at approx 0900 hrs.

All rappel stations have been removed from the climbers' right hand side of the col. This rap route was established during a time when snow and ice covered the scree slope but currently presents an unacceptable rock fall hazard to climbers lower on the col.

Two chain stations have been added to the rap route on climbers' left allowing for 3-4 30m rappels over the bergschrund, or more safely, 1 double rope rappel to below the rock island and then another to well below the bergschrund.

Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col after the rockfall. Photo courtesy of ACMG/BC Parks

SIERRA:

--For information regarding wall closures due to falcon nesting in Yosemite National Park, click here.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--We recently stumbled upon a very interesting and entertaining blog written by Bruce Willey about climbing in the Sierras. To read this nice piece of writing click here.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.


ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali.

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

--The climbing season in the Alps has begun and we are accepting applications for our 2009 climbs of Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger and many other peaks in France and Switzerland. Please call our office (360-671-1505) for current availability.

RED ROCK CANYON:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.