We're still reeling from the sad poaching of one or more members of the Lookout Pack, Washington's only known family of wolves. But as we wait to learn the outcome of the federal investigation, we are inspired by two things. Reacting to the news, people have been very supportive of wolf recovery in Washington. Most everyone, including the Washington Cattlemen's Association, our partner in the Washington Wolf Working Group, recognizes that killing an endangered animal is wrong.
In other good news for Washington's wolves, Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife biologist Scott Fitkin recently saw two collared wolves and one of last year's pups. Not only did they all look healthy, said Fitkin, the alpha female looked to be very pregnant!
A big thank you to the 400 Conservation Northwest supporters who have sent a note to legislators expressing your concern over this poaching case and asking for the funding needed to ensure wolf recovery in Washington. Your voice is being heard and will make a big difference in the months ahead.
Wolves Thrive Despite Setbacks
AAI just received the following email from Conservation Northwest:
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- April 30. 2009
Northwest:
--A member of Vancouver's North Shore Search and Rescue died in a 30-metre fall down an icy crevasse while on a ski-trekking vacation, CKNW reported early Friday. CKNW said the skier, Johannes Müllegger, 36, was on a trip with two others when he fell on a glacier in Toba Inlet on B.C.'s central coast. The two others climbed down to where he fell and used his satellite phone to call for help. To read more, click here.
--An infusion of $62 million in federal stimulus money will fund 33 national park projects in Washington, including speeding removal of two dams in Olympic National Park and work on nine Mount Rainier projects that otherwise would be idled by a lack of funds. To read more, click here.
--A great thread is currently running on the climbers forum, Cascadeclimbers.com. The question that started it all was, "what are the five best routes in the Pacific Northwest?" Check out what people are saying, here.
Leave No Trace: Leave What You Find
This includes animal antlers. It is illegal to pick them up.
--Outlaw shed hunters can no longer depend on the dark of night. From now on, the night will have eyes. Armed with the kind of high-tech surveillance equipment usually associated with international espionage or cinematic whimsy, the managers at Oak Creek Wildlife Area and other state-managed lands are in a game of “gotcha” with trespassers looking for shed antlers. And they’re getting them, too — on film, with time and date on every frame. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--Inyo Sheriff Officials reported a fatal fall in the Whitney region Monday. Forty-eight year old Los Angeles resident Kent Ashcraft was reported to have slid down an ice chute near the Mt. Whitney Trail. The man had been climbing the ice chute that leads to Thor Peak, along with his 18 year old son and two friends. The group had stopped near the top of the chute to take pictures when the ice that Ashcraft was standing on broke, causing the fall. To read more, click here.
--Yosemite climber Tom Evans has put together a website that details his many ascents on El Capitan. This page makes for great reading for the aspiring big wall climber. To check out his website, click here.
--Tuesday was the fourth day of searching the snow covered peaks of the Eastern Sierra for two people from Colorado that went missing after their plane took off from Tonopah NV Friday. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
April 28th photo of the summit crater of Redoubt Volcano showing the rubbly north front of the active lava dome (left and downslope of the steam plume).
This view is from the west.
Photo from the Alaska Volcano Observatory/USGS
--Dodo Kopold recently soloed the southeast side of Annapurna in a single 40-hour push. The Slovakian climbed the steep southeast ridge of a sub-summit before traversing off the line to reach the main summit. This new line is the second route on the mountain's southeast side. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--The office staff at AAI recently found an incredibly cool website. Juan Hernandez Garces has put together multi-directional panoramic photos of climbers and mountain bikers. His website allows you to feel as if you have stepped into the photo and provides you with the ability to look in any direction. It feels like a video game and is a fun website to experience. To check it out, click here.
--The American Alpine Club recently announced their 2009 grant recipients. They awarded approximately $12,000 in grants to expeditions planning on trips to remote mountain ranges throughout the world. To read about the winners of the 2009 grants, click here.
--The 2009 Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) Friend of the Outdoor Industry Awards were presented druing last week's OIA Capitol Summit in Washington, D.C., to Senator Maria Cantwell (D-WA) and Congressman Raul Grijalva (D-AZ) for their leadership in advocating for public policies that support the growth and success of the active outdoor industry. To read more, click here.
--It appears that a concrete shelter with toilet facilities is in the process of being built at the base of Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea. There are a lot of arguements on summitpost.com about how this is for commercial use and will somehow mar the beauty of the mountain. We feel that toilet facilities in high use areas are generally a good thing and do a great deal to keep an area from being too heavily impacted by human waste. To read about this and the arguments, click here.
--A member of Vancouver's North Shore Search and Rescue died in a 30-metre fall down an icy crevasse while on a ski-trekking vacation, CKNW reported early Friday. CKNW said the skier, Johannes Müllegger, 36, was on a trip with two others when he fell on a glacier in Toba Inlet on B.C.'s central coast. The two others climbed down to where he fell and used his satellite phone to call for help. To read more, click here.
--An infusion of $62 million in federal stimulus money will fund 33 national park projects in Washington, including speeding removal of two dams in Olympic National Park and work on nine Mount Rainier projects that otherwise would be idled by a lack of funds. To read more, click here.--A great thread is currently running on the climbers forum, Cascadeclimbers.com. The question that started it all was, "what are the five best routes in the Pacific Northwest?" Check out what people are saying, here.
Leave No Trace: Leave What You FindThis includes animal antlers. It is illegal to pick them up.
Sierra:
--Inyo Sheriff Officials reported a fatal fall in the Whitney region Monday. Forty-eight year old Los Angeles resident Kent Ashcraft was reported to have slid down an ice chute near the Mt. Whitney Trail. The man had been climbing the ice chute that leads to Thor Peak, along with his 18 year old son and two friends. The group had stopped near the top of the chute to take pictures when the ice that Ashcraft was standing on broke, causing the fall. To read more, click here.
--Yosemite climber Tom Evans has put together a website that details his many ascents on El Capitan. This page makes for great reading for the aspiring big wall climber. To check out his website, click here.
--Tuesday was the fourth day of searching the snow covered peaks of the Eastern Sierra for two people from Colorado that went missing after their plane took off from Tonopah NV Friday. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
April 28th photo of the summit crater of Redoubt Volcano showing the rubbly north front of the active lava dome (left and downslope of the steam plume). This view is from the west.
Photo from the Alaska Volcano Observatory/USGS
The Redoubt eruption continues. Seismicity remains elevated.Himalaya:
Additional explosive events are possible with little or no warning. The volcano remains at ORANGE/WATCH and AVO is staffed 24/7.
--Dodo Kopold recently soloed the southeast side of Annapurna in a single 40-hour push. The Slovakian climbed the steep southeast ridge of a sub-summit before traversing off the line to reach the main summit. This new line is the second route on the mountain's southeast side. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--The office staff at AAI recently found an incredibly cool website. Juan Hernandez Garces has put together multi-directional panoramic photos of climbers and mountain bikers. His website allows you to feel as if you have stepped into the photo and provides you with the ability to look in any direction. It feels like a video game and is a fun website to experience. To check it out, click here.
--The American Alpine Club recently announced their 2009 grant recipients. They awarded approximately $12,000 in grants to expeditions planning on trips to remote mountain ranges throughout the world. To read about the winners of the 2009 grants, click here.--The 2009 Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) Friend of the Outdoor Industry Awards were presented druing last week's OIA Capitol Summit in Washington, D.C., to Senator Maria Cantwell (D-WA) and Congressman Raul Grijalva (D-AZ) for their leadership in advocating for public policies that support the growth and success of the active outdoor industry. To read more, click here.
--It appears that a concrete shelter with toilet facilities is in the process of being built at the base of Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea. There are a lot of arguements on summitpost.com about how this is for commercial use and will somehow mar the beauty of the mountain. We feel that toilet facilities in high use areas are generally a good thing and do a great deal to keep an area from being too heavily impacted by human waste. To read about this and the arguments, click here.
The Moab Diary: Our Grade III Climb (day three)
We'd had two days to get to the top of River Tower, and we had failed. But our line was fixed for when we arrived at the start of Day Three. This was serious now. It was time for us finish the damn thing. We threw ourselves into the car, and when "Jello" turned the key - cough, cough, cough...rrrr, rrrr, rrrr...MOTHER -This wasn't happening. After all we had put into this route, the damn car
Conditions Report -- April 29, 2009
RED ROCK CANYON
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The scenic drive loop is back to opening its gates at 6 AM instead of 7 AM.
JOSHUA TREE:
The seemingly never-ending rock fields of Joshua Tree. Photo (Archived) by Dana Hickenbottom
-Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
NORTHWEST:
The South and North (left to right) Early Winter Spires of Washington Pass. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
--The North Cascades Highway and Washington Pass are now open! The highway that provides access to many classic climbs opened on Friday, April 24th at 8pm and there was no shortage of anxious climbers waiting for those gates to open. This includes one of our new guides, Kevin Hogan, and his climbing partner Doug Seitz who had their eyes set on the impressive North Face of Graybeard. They had quite the experience on the climb and summitted after 12 hours on the face. To read the full report of their harrowing ascent click here.
AAI Guide Kevin Hogan leading the steep ice on Graybeard. Photo by Doug Seitz
--The Washington Trails Association has an update regarding the proposed closure of the Cascade River Road out of Marblemount on the North Cascades Highway. A closure of this road would effectively block access to many incredible peaks in the Cascade Pass and Boston Basin area. To read more about this potential closure and to write the Skagit County Board of Commissioners to request that the road remain open click here.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth andHighway 2.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Mt. Baker Ski Area ran it's lifts for the last time of the season this past weekend and a few of our own staff, Ruth Hennings, Emily Znamierowski, and Ben Traxler were there to enjoy the festivities.
Emily stylin' it up at Mt. Baker. Photo by Ruth Hennings
Ben Traxler shredding the slopes...sort of. Photo by Ruth Hennings
--A party made it out to Silver's North Bowl near Snoqualmie Pass last weekend. One of the skiers, Chris Schaening, wrote up a trip report and took some great photos of the trip. Click here for the report and check out the photo below.
The North Bowl of Silver. Photo by Chris Schaening
--We recently found a website which features great daily video conditions reports for Snoqualmie Pass. These are put together by the Snoqualmie Snow Troopers. Follow this link to watch.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.
--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.
SIERRA:
--We found a recent update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
ALPS:
Climbing the ridge on Balmhorn. Photo by Andrew Luks
--Seattle based skier Andrew Luks recently made a trip over the pond to Switzerland. While "officially" there on business he was able to make it up to the mountains and get some beautiful skiing in. Click here for a full trip report.
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
ALASKA RANGE:--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--We recently received an update from Denali National Park regarding the park road. Read below for more details.
Denali Park Road to Open to Mile 30 on Friday, April 24
Mild spring weather has facilitated the efforts of the National Park
Service road crew and other park employees to open the road and park
facilities to park visitors. The portion of the Denali Park Road between
the Savage River (Mile 15) and the Teklanika River Rest Area at Mile 30
will open for travel by private vehicles at 8:00 a.m. on Friday, April 24,
weather permitting. Visitors are encouraged to call ahead for updated road
and weather conditions before driving to the park.
Motorists should expect to encounter snow, ice, and mud on some portions of
the road, particularly shaded areas. Please be alert for heavy equipment
being used in road opening operations and park personnel working on the
edges of the road. There are vault toilets at the Savage River parking
areas and chemical toilets at the Teklanika River Rest Area for visitor
use. Other facilities west of the park headquarters, including campgrounds,
are scheduled to open mid-May.
The road will be open to Mile 30 through Tuesday, May 19. Beginning on
Wednesday, May 20 the shuttle bus system will provide access beyond the
Savage River to as far west as the Toklat River (Mile 53). The first
fifteen miles of the park road will continue to be open for travel by park
visitors in private vehicles throughout the summer season.
Snow conditions for skiing and mushing have deteriorated, but there is
still good snow on north-facing slopes. Visitors have reported numerous
wildlife sightings, including lynx, wolves, caribou, moose, Dall sheep,
ptarmigan, golden eagles, and snowshoe hare.
Visitor information and backcountry permits are available at the Murie
Science and Learning Center (Mile 1.3) from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. daily.
The Riley Creek Campground is open for free camping until May 15, but water
and sewer services are currently not available. A vault toilet is provided
for campers in the open loop, and water can be obtained at the Murie
Science and Learning Center.
Denali National Park and Preserve collects an entrance fee year-round. The
entrance fee of $10 per person or $20 per vehicle is good for seven days.
The majority of the money collected remains in the park to be used for
projects to improve visitor services and facilities. Interagency Federal
Recreation Passes such as the Annual, Senior, and Access Pass, and the
Denali Annual Pass are also valid for entry into the park. Visitors can pay
entrance fees and purchase passes at the Murie Science and Learning Center.
Additional information can be obtained by calling the park at (907)
683-2294 from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily or on the web at
www.nps.gov/dena.
Hueco Video on Momentum VM
After my February trip to Hueco I edited together a video piece on my trip. It's taken a while, but it's finally up on Momentum Video Magazine. Check it out. It is my first major editing project and I was pretty psyched with how it turned out. In it I climb Diabolic and Terre de Sienne. I also show footage of Andre DiFelice climbing Algerita. Last night's showing of Rocky Mountain Highball was awesome - you should all pick up the DVD when it comes out.
Climbing Ethics: Spray
Spray is a derogatory term for a monologue wherein an individual describes his or her climbing in an arrogant, narcissistic and self-promoting manner. Those who engage in spray are usually trying to elevate themselves and their egos above whomever they are talking to. In other words, spray isn't just bragging, it's a form of put-down. The subtext to spray is that, "I'm so good, you could never dream to be as good as me..."
In a discussion of spray on rockclimbing.com, a poster named Tradguy provided a great definition and example of spray:
I had a similar encounter a few years ago. We were climbing at The Gallery in Red Rock Canyon when a guy approached a group adjacent to us. The guy was simply looking for a little bit of information, but the sport climber he approached was far more interested in derogatory spray. The guy asked a simple question, "hey man, is this a good route?"
The sport climber looked at him like a he was a piece of dirt and then spoke with an indistinguishable accent, "for you, zis is a good climb." He smiled, "but for me, maybe I do zis climb when I am sick or I am tired. But for you, zis is a good climb."
In three short sentences, this expert sprayer had not only proclaimed his skill, but completely and maliciously put down the person who asked him a question. Years later, I still jokingly imitate the man's spray...which is easy to do when it was so pronounced and vicious.
Indeed, both examples here are pronounced examples of spray. It isn't the pronounced spray that people have to be careful of. Instead, it's the subtle spray. It's the mild bragging that we all do when we finish a climb that we think is cool. A little mild bragging -- or storytelling -- can be fun and engaging for everybody involved. One just has to watch the line and be careful not to step over it into spray. The line should be clear...it's the point where you are no longer telling stories and sharing adventures, it's the point where it becomes a monologue where nobody else gets to share and you start to talk about how good you are and how many celebratory climbers you climb with...
Needless to say, spraying is poor etiquette.
--Jason D. Martin
In a discussion of spray on rockclimbing.com, a poster named Tradguy provided a great definition and example of spray:
I guess I've always thought of spray as being given without having been asked for. Like if someone asked you what you climbed today, it would be expected that you name routes and grades and such. However, if you just walk up to someone and start talking smack, or throw out unneeded comparisons or references to other climbs or people, then it becomes spray. For example, I'm in Joshua Tree with a couple friends, one of whom is just starting to lead up a 5.8. Some random guy wanders up and starts chatting. Allow me to paraphrase:
GUY: "So you guys are going to climb this route, huh?"
US: "Yep. Looks pretty cool."
GUY: "Yeah, it reminds me of this sick 5.14 crack climb I FA'd up in the valley."
US: "Ok. Cool."
GUY: "Yeah, the FA on this route here is by John Long."
US: "Yep, we read that... in the guidebook."
GUY: "Yeah, I was out climbing some stuff at a new area with him last summer. We put up some sick hard lines."
etc, etc, etc.
This guy continued to spray like a firehose until we finished our climb and left. Kind of pathetic, really.
I had a similar encounter a few years ago. We were climbing at The Gallery in Red Rock Canyon when a guy approached a group adjacent to us. The guy was simply looking for a little bit of information, but the sport climber he approached was far more interested in derogatory spray. The guy asked a simple question, "hey man, is this a good route?"
The sport climber looked at him like a he was a piece of dirt and then spoke with an indistinguishable accent, "for you, zis is a good climb." He smiled, "but for me, maybe I do zis climb when I am sick or I am tired. But for you, zis is a good climb."
In three short sentences, this expert sprayer had not only proclaimed his skill, but completely and maliciously put down the person who asked him a question. Years later, I still jokingly imitate the man's spray...which is easy to do when it was so pronounced and vicious.
Indeed, both examples here are pronounced examples of spray. It isn't the pronounced spray that people have to be careful of. Instead, it's the subtle spray. It's the mild bragging that we all do when we finish a climb that we think is cool. A little mild bragging -- or storytelling -- can be fun and engaging for everybody involved. One just has to watch the line and be careful not to step over it into spray. The line should be clear...it's the point where you are no longer telling stories and sharing adventures, it's the point where it becomes a monologue where nobody else gets to share and you start to talk about how good you are and how many celebratory climbers you climb with...
Needless to say, spraying is poor etiquette.
--Jason D. Martin
April and May Climbing Events
--April 30 -- Portland, OR -- Himalaya Fundraiser
--May 2 -- San Marcos, TX -- Texas State University Bouldering Comp
--May 2-3 -- Austin, TX -- Mountain Gear's UClimb
--May 2 -- Troutdale, OR -- The 6th Annual Broughton's Bluff Bushwhack and BBQ
It's that time again! Time to get friends together, old and new, to give back to the crag that gives us so much the year round! As usual we will be bringing in all the tools, swag, beta, and food to keep you and our beloved crag stoked all season long! Come get dirty, get pumped, and get fed!
This year we will be fighting the usual battle to stabilize the hill-side trails and belay platforms, as well as, building/reinforcing trail systems on the back side of the park. We will also have a small group of experts replacing "time-bomb" bolts and anchors with 1/2" stainless steel thanks to our friends at the ASCA.
Bring your rope and appetite because the afternoon is when the day really starts to heat up with four-star vertical action and feasting a-plenty!
--May 2 -- Shawnee, OK -- OBU/Compass Wilderness Bouldering Competition
--May 3 -- Lincoln, RI -- USAC Onsight Competition
--May 3 -- College Park, MD -- UMD Climbing Throwdown
--May 3 -- Post Falls, ID -- Kootenai Klimbers Cleanup
-- May 3 -- Renton, WA -- Passages Northwest 12th Annual Courage Benefit
Passages Northwest 12th Annual Courage Benefit. For 12 years, Passages Northwest has provided wilderness adventures for girls, including rock climbing, backpacking, and sea kayaking, to help girls test their courage and leadership. We serve diverse groups of girls from the Seattle area, with a specific focus on providing access to the natural world to people who have been historically under-represented in outdoor pursuits. We have never turned away a participant for lack of funds.
For more information: wilderness@passagesnw.org or visit http://passagesnw.org
--May 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Bree Loewen: Pickets and Dead Men. Book signing and slide show
--May 7-May 10 -- Carbondale, CO -- Five Point Film Festival
The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.
On the edge between desire and fear, between the known and unknown, is a place deep inside us all where the spirit is transformed — pushed beyond its limit by our deliberate commitment to usher in something new and original. In this soulful place we are catalyzed to learn, expand and engender newfound understanding to inspire others on their journeys. It is this spirit, this thirst for adventure that the 5Point Film Festival celebrates and shares with the community and filmmakers that gather for its annual Festival in Carbondale.
The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.
The 5Point Film Festival inspires us to explore wild places and to return with a renewed vigor to protect our natural world. Proceeds from the 5Point Film Festival, a 501(c)3 non-profit, benefit 1% for the Planet, Carbondale Environmental Board and other non-profits throughout the Roaring Fork Valley and beyond.
--May 9 -- Seattle, WA -- Skip Yowell - Founder of Jansport
--May 9 -- Smith Rock, OR -- Smith Rock Spring Thing
--May 9 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Spring Mountain Clean-up
Join new friends in the cool mountain breezes among the shade of trees to help remove litter from the mountain environment and recreation sites that can be found in the Mt. Charleston area. A special group of outdoor enthusiasts (hikers, mountain bikers, and climbers) is being organized to clean the pullouts along the Deer Creek Highway (the road between Kyle and Lee canyons). This may involve off trail walking over some possibly steeper, more uneven terrain that will require sure footed and fit individuals.
Please volunteer today! This is a great opportunity to help preserve the natural beauty of the Spring Mountains. Just a little bit of work and a whole lot of fun! We depend on the mountain and the mountain depends on you.
Spring Cleaning
Saturday, May 9
9:30am - 10:00am .........Volunteer Check-in
10:00am - 1:00pm..........Volunteer Litter Pickup
1:00pm - 3:00pm...........BBQ with Live Entertainment and Raffle Prizes
Volunteer Today!
Contact: Ron Rudy
kiwanoron@hotmail.com • 702.238.4108
--May 9 -- Ann Arobr, MI -- Bouldering Competition
--May 10 -- Seattle, WA -- Festival of Trees
--May 15-16 -- New River Gorge, WVNew River Rendezvous
This 3-day climbing festival is a celebration of climbing at the New River Gorge. The weekend is full of climbing, food, friends and fun. NRMG holds instructional clinics taught by pro-climbers like Lynn Hill, Brittany Griffith and many more. Pre-registration is required to attend the event and clinics.
--May 16 -- Montreal, QC -- 2009 Canadian Bouldering Championships
--May 16-17 -- Baraboo, WI -- Mountain Gear's UClimb
--May 16 -- Portland, OR -- Madrone Wall Restoration Event and Clean Up
--May 16 -- Red Rocks, CO -- Red Rocks Canyon Open Space Clean-Up
--May 22-26 -- Kalymnos, Greece -- International Kalymnos Climbing Festival
--May 30-31 -- Fayetteville, WV -- Mountain Gear's UClimb
--May 2 -- San Marcos, TX -- Texas State University Bouldering Comp
--May 2-3 -- Austin, TX -- Mountain Gear's UClimb
--May 2 -- Troutdale, OR -- The 6th Annual Broughton's Bluff Bushwhack and BBQ
It's that time again! Time to get friends together, old and new, to give back to the crag that gives us so much the year round! As usual we will be bringing in all the tools, swag, beta, and food to keep you and our beloved crag stoked all season long! Come get dirty, get pumped, and get fed!
This year we will be fighting the usual battle to stabilize the hill-side trails and belay platforms, as well as, building/reinforcing trail systems on the back side of the park. We will also have a small group of experts replacing "time-bomb" bolts and anchors with 1/2" stainless steel thanks to our friends at the ASCA.
Bring your rope and appetite because the afternoon is when the day really starts to heat up with four-star vertical action and feasting a-plenty!
--May 2 -- Shawnee, OK -- OBU/Compass Wilderness Bouldering Competition
--May 3 -- Lincoln, RI -- USAC Onsight Competition
--May 3 -- College Park, MD -- UMD Climbing Throwdown
--May 3 -- Post Falls, ID -- Kootenai Klimbers Cleanup
-- May 3 -- Renton, WA -- Passages Northwest 12th Annual Courage Benefit
Passages Northwest 12th Annual Courage Benefit. For 12 years, Passages Northwest has provided wilderness adventures for girls, including rock climbing, backpacking, and sea kayaking, to help girls test their courage and leadership. We serve diverse groups of girls from the Seattle area, with a specific focus on providing access to the natural world to people who have been historically under-represented in outdoor pursuits. We have never turned away a participant for lack of funds.
For more information: wilderness@passagesnw.org or visit http://passagesnw.org
--May 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Bree Loewen: Pickets and Dead Men. Book signing and slide show
--May 7-May 10 -- Carbondale, CO -- Five Point Film Festival
The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.
On the edge between desire and fear, between the known and unknown, is a place deep inside us all where the spirit is transformed — pushed beyond its limit by our deliberate commitment to usher in something new and original. In this soulful place we are catalyzed to learn, expand and engender newfound understanding to inspire others on their journeys. It is this spirit, this thirst for adventure that the 5Point Film Festival celebrates and shares with the community and filmmakers that gather for its annual Festival in Carbondale.
The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.
The 5Point Film Festival inspires us to explore wild places and to return with a renewed vigor to protect our natural world. Proceeds from the 5Point Film Festival, a 501(c)3 non-profit, benefit 1% for the Planet, Carbondale Environmental Board and other non-profits throughout the Roaring Fork Valley and beyond.
--May 9 -- Seattle, WA -- Skip Yowell - Founder of Jansport
--May 9 -- Smith Rock, OR -- Smith Rock Spring Thing
--May 9 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Spring Mountain Clean-up
Join new friends in the cool mountain breezes among the shade of trees to help remove litter from the mountain environment and recreation sites that can be found in the Mt. Charleston area. A special group of outdoor enthusiasts (hikers, mountain bikers, and climbers) is being organized to clean the pullouts along the Deer Creek Highway (the road between Kyle and Lee canyons). This may involve off trail walking over some possibly steeper, more uneven terrain that will require sure footed and fit individuals.
Please volunteer today! This is a great opportunity to help preserve the natural beauty of the Spring Mountains. Just a little bit of work and a whole lot of fun! We depend on the mountain and the mountain depends on you.
Spring Cleaning
Saturday, May 9
9:30am - 10:00am .........Volunteer Check-in
10:00am - 1:00pm..........Volunteer Litter Pickup
1:00pm - 3:00pm...........BBQ with Live Entertainment and Raffle Prizes
Volunteer Today!
Contact: Ron Rudy
kiwanoron@hotmail.com • 702.238.4108
--May 9 -- Ann Arobr, MI -- Bouldering Competition
--May 10 -- Seattle, WA -- Festival of Trees
--May 15-16 -- New River Gorge, WVNew River Rendezvous
This 3-day climbing festival is a celebration of climbing at the New River Gorge. The weekend is full of climbing, food, friends and fun. NRMG holds instructional clinics taught by pro-climbers like Lynn Hill, Brittany Griffith and many more. Pre-registration is required to attend the event and clinics.
--May 16 -- Montreal, QC -- 2009 Canadian Bouldering Championships
--May 16-17 -- Baraboo, WI -- Mountain Gear's UClimb
--May 16 -- Portland, OR -- Madrone Wall Restoration Event and Clean Up
--May 16 -- Red Rocks, CO -- Red Rocks Canyon Open Space Clean-Up
--May 22-26 -- Kalymnos, Greece -- International Kalymnos Climbing Festival
--May 30-31 -- Fayetteville, WV -- Mountain Gear's UClimb
Move to Temporary Visitor Center at Red Rock Canyon Slated for May 8th
AAI just received the following email from the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area:
In preparation for the move into the new visitor center currently under construction at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, the BLM will be moving to a temporary visitor center beginning May 8. The new visitor arrival building is expected to open in late June.
The temporary visitor center will feature a staffed information desk, exhibits including microscopes, dioramas, pictographs and taxidermy animals as well as a gift shop. Exhibits will be moved from the current visitor center beginning May 1.
The temporary visitor center will be located in a portable trailer in the lower parking lot of the current visitor center. More than 100 parking spaces will remain available at the site and restrooms will remain open.
When the visitor arrival building opens in late June, the temporary visitor center will be removed and the exhibits, information desk and gift shop will move to the 8,900 square foot indoor portion of the visitor arrival center. The attached amphitheater will also open at that time.
Construction will continue on the exterior displays; the former visitor center will be converted into administrative offices; and the fee booth area/contact station will be remodeled. By mid- November, construction is expected to be completed.
When the current visitor center opened in 1982, about 20,000 people visited Red Rock. Now more than a million people a year visit the area. To address this issue, the Secretary of the Interior approved funding under the Southern Nevada Public Land Management Act to build a new visitor center to provide enhanced visitor services to the increasing number of people who visit the National Conservation Area each year.
The facility is designed to encourage stewardship for public land by providing an outdoor experience that instills a sense of personal responsibility. Both the visitor center and the administration building components of the project will undergo the U.S. Green Building Council’s Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design certification process.
# # #
The BLM manages more land –258 million acres –than any other Federal agency. This land, known as the National System of Public Lands, is primarily located in 12 Western States, including Alaska. The Bureau, with a budget of about $1 billion, also administers 700 million acres of sub-surface mineral estate throughout the nation. The BLM’s multiple-use mission is to sustain the health and productivity of the public lands for the use and enjoyment of present and future generations. The Bureau accomplishes this by managing such activities as outdoor recreation, livestock grazing, mineral development, and energy production, and by conserving natural, historical, cultural, and other resources on public lands.
RMHB Premiere Today!
Hey Front Rangers. Don't forget to hit up the Boulder Theater tonight for the premiere of Rocky Mountain Highball. Doors open at 7pm. Click here for more info.
AAI Spring Rock Guide Training
A few weeks ago, the American Alpine Institute participated in the annual Red Rock Rendezvous as a key sponsor. Eighteen of our guides attended the event and taught a variety of clinics and classes throughout Red Rock Canyon.
We had a lot of guides around...and we couldn't resist. So we ran a guide training with a focus on multi-pitch rock guiding. Dawn Glanc, an AMGA Certified Rock Guide; Forest McBrian, an IFMGA Aspirant; and I, an AMGA Certified Rock Guide; ran the training...and it was awesome.
Guides guided guides up and down routes like Alage on Parade (III, 5.7+), All that Jazz (II, 5.8), Physical Graffiti (I+, 5.7) and Community Pillar (IV, 5.9). Everybody had a great time and expanded their skills and knowledge.
Following is a photo essay from the training:
AAI Guide Viren Perumal contemplates life in Red Rock
Photo by Ruth Hennings
AAI Guide Ben Traxler guiding Algae on Parade
Photo by Ruth Hennings
AAI Guide and Guide Trainer, Forest McBrian relaxing in Red Rock
Photo by Ruth Hennings
AAI Program Coordinator Ruth Hennings at the base of Algae on Parade
Photo by Ben Traxler
AAI Guide Viren Perumal follows Algae on Parade
Photo by Ruth Hennings
Mike Pond and Kurt Hicks at the Base of All That Jazz
Photo by Jason Martin
Mike Pond belays Kurt Hicks up the last pitch of All That Jazz
Photo by Jason Martin
Somehow Forest always allows himself to get photographed when
he is asleep and looks funny.This is on the flight back
to Bellingham after he's all tuckered out.
Photo by Ruth Hennings
We had a lot of guides around...and we couldn't resist. So we ran a guide training with a focus on multi-pitch rock guiding. Dawn Glanc, an AMGA Certified Rock Guide; Forest McBrian, an IFMGA Aspirant; and I, an AMGA Certified Rock Guide; ran the training...and it was awesome.
Guides guided guides up and down routes like Alage on Parade (III, 5.7+), All that Jazz (II, 5.8), Physical Graffiti (I+, 5.7) and Community Pillar (IV, 5.9). Everybody had a great time and expanded their skills and knowledge.
Following is a photo essay from the training:
AAI Guide Viren Perumal contemplates life in Red RockPhoto by Ruth Hennings
AAI Guide Ben Traxler guiding Algae on ParadePhoto by Ruth Hennings
AAI Guide and Guide Trainer, Forest McBrian relaxing in Red RockPhoto by Ruth Hennings
AAI Program Coordinator Ruth Hennings at the base of Algae on ParadePhoto by Ben Traxler
AAI Guide Viren Perumal follows Algae on ParadePhoto by Ruth Hennings
Mike Pond and Kurt Hicks at the Base of All That JazzPhoto by Jason Martin
Mike Pond belays Kurt Hicks up the last pitch of All That JazzPhoto by Jason Martin
Somehow Forest always allows himself to get photographed whenhe is asleep and looks funny.This is on the flight back
to Bellingham after he's all tuckered out.
Photo by Ruth Hennings
--Jason D. Martin
Cache la Poudre
Yesterday I finally made my first venture to Poudre Canyon. I have been intrigued by the bouldering there since I moved to Colorado but never made the trip because of the long drive and the relative lack of information. It was nice to finally see some of the boulder problems I had heard about.
I was most psyched on Circadian Rhythm V13 and spent most of my time trying it. At first the moves seemed desperate and the holds were way more slopey than I was imagining when I saw video footage of the problem. Things started going better after I felt more warmed up. Eventually, I figured out all the moves and had one or two good links. The challenge in this problem definitely seems to be linking all the moves together because each one requires lots of tension and power - and these things will drain quickly. I never managed to stick the second move from the start, but I think I'll have a decent chance of doing the problem once I can manage that. I'm definitely psyched to get back on it again soon. Here are two picture of me trying this problem. Below is a picture of I took of my girlfriend Sandy on Scarface V6. (Sandy took the two pics of me).
I was most psyched on Circadian Rhythm V13 and spent most of my time trying it. At first the moves seemed desperate and the holds were way more slopey than I was imagining when I saw video footage of the problem. Things started going better after I felt more warmed up. Eventually, I figured out all the moves and had one or two good links. The challenge in this problem definitely seems to be linking all the moves together because each one requires lots of tension and power - and these things will drain quickly. I never managed to stick the second move from the start, but I think I'll have a decent chance of doing the problem once I can manage that. I'm definitely psyched to get back on it again soon. Here are two picture of me trying this problem. Below is a picture of I took of my girlfriend Sandy on Scarface V6. (Sandy took the two pics of me).
SR 20 Opens This Evening
From the Washington State Department of Transportation Website:
The SR 20 North Cascades Highway reopens to traffic at 8 p.m. on Friday, April 24, a full week earlier than anticipated. Washington State Department of Transportation maintenance crews began work four weeks ago clearing avalanche chutes and snow from the mountain highway that closed to traffic for the winter on Dec. 11.
“The crews are really pleased that the reopening effort took two weeks less than it did last year and that the highway will be open for the opening weekend of fishing season,” said Don Becker, WSDOT Twisp Maintenance Supervisor.
The 8 p.m. reopening gives the crews the time they need to "sweep" the entire highway for sand, rocks and debris from Silver Star to Diablo, and clean up any more snow sloughed from avalanche chutes.
"It provides the safety margin we need so the first drivers over the passes make their trip successfully," said Becker.
East and west side crews met at Washington Pass Wednesday. Today, crews are widening and cutting safety pull out areas.
“We expected the clearing to take about five weeks if weather and equipment cooperated. We had some setbacks from both, but the key to faster-than-expected reopening was having the two west side snow blowers this week. Coupled with the melt from Monday and Tuesday’s warm temperatures, both crews moved more snow than we ever imagined in a single day,” said Becker.
When the gates swing open tomorrow, drivers should find the road conditions bare and dry or bare and wet across the entire route. The weather forecast calls for temperatures in the mid 40s, clouds and a freezing level around 4,500 feet. There is a possibility of some rain forecast Saturday through Monday.
While the final clearing work is underway, an unusual activity is taking place in Spiral Gulch, east of Washington Pass. Beginning early Friday morning, a Discovery Channel crew is filming a re-creation a truck accident that originally took place on the Alcan Highway for an upcoming episode of “Ice Road Truckers”.
Over the last 10 years, the pass has reopened for traffic between March 10 and May 7. The latest opening was June 14, 1974. The reopening effort has taken from as little as two weeks to as many as eight weeks. The highway never closed during the drought winter of 1976-77. Updates and photos of the annual spring reopening are posted on the WSDOT SR 20 web page, www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/passes/northcascades
The Moab Diary: Our Grade III Climb (day two)
Jello's comments in italicsI walked out of the tent and saw our shit blown all over the campsite. I was the only one awake and was discouraged. Honestly though, I don't remember hearing the windstorm because I was sleeping pretty good by this point, but our stuff was everywhere. Mostly it was "Sungam's", but I knew it would take some time to get our own stuff together, too. Today was my birthday
Mount Redoubt Update
Steaming from the summit lava dome at Redoubt on April 21, 2009
--Update on Mount Redoubt - Climbing Affects
Although the lava dome at the summit of Redoubt has slowed, experts expect activity to continue for weeks maybe even months to come. As climbers, there are a few effects from the eruption to be keeping in mind while climbing in the Alaska Range.
Throughout the eruption a decent amount of ash has deposited in the surrounding peaks, including Denali. This will affect climbers, as they will be forced to dig deeper into the snow pack in order to find clean drinking water.
Avalanche danger will also be increased due to the dark coloration of the ash. The ash will absorb more sunlight than usual causing the snow to be much heavier and prone to slides.
On the bright side, the ash has become a source of income as one local Alaskan entrepreneur attempts to sell bags of ash for $250.00 per pound on e-bay.
Again, we haven’t received any indication of an impact on the AAI Alaska season and we are looking forward to climbing in the Alaska Range as usual.
Denali Park Road to Open to Mile 30 on Friday, April 24
The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:
Mild spring weather has facilitated the efforts of the National Park Service road crew and other park employees to open the road and park facilities to park visitors. The portion of the Denali Park Road between the Savage River (Mile 15) and the Teklanika River Rest Area at Mile 30 will open for travel by private vehicles at 8:00 a.m. on Friday, April 24, weather permitting. Visitors are encouraged to call ahead for updated road and weather conditions before driving to the park.
Motorists should expect to encounter snow, ice, and mud on some portions of the road, particularly shaded areas. Please be alert for heavy equipment being used in road opening operations and park personnel working on the edges of the road. There are vault toilets at the Savage River parking areas and chemical toilets at the Teklanika River Rest Area for visitor use. Other facilities west of the park headquarters, including campgrounds, are scheduled to open mid-May.
The road will be open to Mile 30 through Tuesday, May 19. Beginning on Wednesday, May 20 the shuttle bus system will provide access beyond the Savage River to as far west as the Toklat River (Mile 53). The first fifteen miles of the park road will continue to be open for travel by park visitors in private vehicles throughout the summer season.
Snow conditions for skiing and mushing have deteriorated, but there is still good snow on north-facing slopes. Visitors have reported numerous wildlife sightings, including lynx, wolves, caribou, moose, Dall sheep, ptarmigan, golden eagles, and snowshoe hare.
Visitor information and backcountry permits are available at the Murie Science and Learning Center (Mile 1.3) from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. daily. The Riley Creek Campground is open for free camping until May 15, but water and sewer services are currently not available. A vault toilet is provided for campers in the open loop, and water can be obtained at the Murie Science and Learning Center.
Denali National Park and Preserve collects an entrance fee year-round. The entrance fee of $10 per person or $20 per vehicle is good for seven days. The majority of the money collected remains in the park to be used for projects to improve visitor services and facilities. Interagency Federal Recreation Passes such as the Annual, Senior, and Access Pass, and the Denali Annual Pass are also valid for entry into the park. Visitors can pay entrance fees and purchase passes at the Murie Science and Learning Center.
Additional information can be obtained by calling the park at (907) 683-2294 from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily or on the web at www.nps.gov/dena.
Rocky Mountain Highball
This coming Monday (the 27th) is the premier of Rocky Mountain Highball at the Boulder Theater. It's going to be a great film so I highly recommend going if you're in or around Boulder. I'm in the film too. There should be a clip of me climbing Firstborn - the V11 arete I put up in the Flatirons this winter.
Here's the relevant info:
Yama Studio and The American Alpine Club present ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIGHBALL.
“Rocky Mountain Highball” is a new climbing film that presents an in depth look into why some climbers push themselves to boulder at the vertical limit. The film documents the many facets of bouldering by interweaving numerous classic climbs in Colorado with interview footage from the leading figures of the climbing world.
Director/Filmmaker Scott Neel, and Yama Studio have brought in a huge cast of world renowned climbers, like Paul Robinson, Mark Wilford, Kevin Jorgeson, Lynn Hill, Daniel Woods, John Sherman, John Gill, Steve Mammen, and Jason Kehl. Having filmed more than 70 climbs with more than 35 athletes, this film proves to be an exciting journey through the world of highball bouldering.
Pre-sale tickets are on sale now at The Boulder Rock Club and The Spot Bouldering Gym for $12. Tickets are $14 at the door and also available at www.BoulderTheater.com. Here is a direct link to the page - http://bouldertheater.com/event_detail.php?id=1067
Please visit www.RockyMountainHighball.com for more info, the official trailer, and interactive cast line-up.
Here's the relevant info:
Yama Studio and The American Alpine Club present ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIGHBALL.
“Rocky Mountain Highball” is a new climbing film that presents an in depth look into why some climbers push themselves to boulder at the vertical limit. The film documents the many facets of bouldering by interweaving numerous classic climbs in Colorado with interview footage from the leading figures of the climbing world.
Director/Filmmaker Scott Neel, and Yama Studio have brought in a huge cast of world renowned climbers, like Paul Robinson, Mark Wilford, Kevin Jorgeson, Lynn Hill, Daniel Woods, John Sherman, John Gill, Steve Mammen, and Jason Kehl. Having filmed more than 70 climbs with more than 35 athletes, this film proves to be an exciting journey through the world of highball bouldering.
Pre-sale tickets are on sale now at The Boulder Rock Club and The Spot Bouldering Gym for $12. Tickets are $14 at the door and also available at www.BoulderTheater.com. Here is a direct link to the page - http://bouldertheater.com/
Please visit www.RockyMountainHighball.com for more info, the official trailer, and interactive cast line-up.
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- April 23, 2009
Northwest:
--Local climber Charles Stimson "Stim" Bullitt died Sunday at the age of 89. Stim was well-known by the general public as well as by the climbing community. The climber was also the former president of King Broadcasting, a political activist, a lawyer, an author and a businessman. Stim didn't start climbing until the age of 50 and didn't start focusing on technical rock until he was 65, but succeeded on a number of classic lines in latter part of his life. He has climbed Northwest classics like the North Ridge of Mount Stuart (5.9, IV), Dreamer (5.9+, IV), and Outer Space (5.9 III+). Outside the Northwest, Stim notably climbed Canada's Mount Sir Donald, Denali and completed a clean lead of Papa Woolsey, a 5.10b in Joshua Tree at the age of 78. To read Stim's obituary, click here. To read about some of his ascents, click here.
--The Index Town Walls of Washington feature one of the best concentrations of steep, clean granite cracks and face climbs inWestern North America . Prior to its 50-year climbing history, parts of the Lower Town Wall were quarried for granite before the Burlington Northern railroad moved closer to the wall in the 1960s. While the Country and Upper Town Wall are protected on State Park and National Forest land, the family who ran the quarrying operation still own the 20-acre parcel that includes the Inner Walls, Lower Town Wall, and Quarry. The landowners have historically allowed public access and climbing. However, recent interest from quarrying companies led the landowner to post no trespassing signs earlier in March. The Access Fund and Washington Climbers Coalition are working closely together to address the access issue and work with the landowner to find an alternative solution, such as permanent protection through acquisition in the near future. To read more, click here.
A mama falcon protecting her egg.
Photo by Lisa Doubet
--It appears that a pair of Falcons have nested on the classic line, Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth. All routes from Outer Space, White Slabs Direct and White Fright, south to the descent gully including Orbit are closed to climbing until July 31st. To read about a falcon encounter on Outer Space, click here.
Sierra:
--The April first start to the new water year has come and gone leaving the official snowpack for 2008-2009 below normal. As of April 8th, the LADWP website lists the water content of the snow at Mammoth Pass at 37.3 inches, or 85% of normal for the year. Rock Creek checks in at a low 30% of normal for the year, while South Lake checks in with 71% of normal for the season. Big Pine Creek is 74% of normal for the year. On the southern end of the range, the Cottonwood Lakes station checks in with 54% of normal. To read more, click here.
Mount Whitney from the Whitney Portal Store -- Yesterday!
Photo from the Whitney Portal Store Webcam
--It looks like plans for a subdivision off of Whitney Portal Road near Lone Pine, could continue to be tied up in court. In March, the Inyo Planning Commission signed off on a revised Environmental Impact Report for the proposed 27 home development, called the Whitney Portal Preserve by the developer. Now the spokesperson for he group known as the Save The Round Valley Alliance, which has tied the development up in court for the past four years, says that they will appeal the Planning Commission decision. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--Crews continue to watch Mount Redoubt rumble. The following is from the Alaska Volcano Observatory's most recent post:
Notes from All Over:
--Actor and funny man Will Ferrell joined adventure sensationalist Bear Grylls in the mountains of Sweden to shoot an episode of the Discovery Channel's Man vs. Wild. Apparently ice climbing and rappelling were somehow involved in the shoot. The episode is slated to be aired in June. To read more, click here.
--Hidden in the bone-chilling dark beneath an Antarctic glacier, a colony of strange bacteria is thriving. Scientists investigating the flow of blood-red water from beneath the glacier discovered the bacteria, which have survived for millions of years, living on sulfur and iron compounds they report in Friday's edition of the journal Science. "Among the big questions here are: 'How does an ecosystem function below glaciers?', 'How are they able to persist below hundreds of meters of ice and live in permanently cold and dark conditions for extended periods of time, in the case of Blood Falls, over millions of years?" said lead researcher Jill Mikucki of Harvard University. To read more, click here.
It looks like these guys won't be in our National Parks --
Which is probably a good thing!
From the film Predator
--The issue of guns in National Parks has been put to rest for the time being. A recent court ruling has closed the parks to loaded and concealed weapons. To read about the ruling, click here. The popular political blog, Daily Kos has an interesting article on why this particular issue has come to the forefront. To read the article, click here.
--Some people like sledding on snow, some people like glissading down the mountain. In Nicaragua, they like sledding on pumice and other volcanic rocks. The New York Times recently posted an article about this weird form of Volcano sledding. To read the article, click here.
--Local climber Charles Stimson "Stim" Bullitt died Sunday at the age of 89. Stim was well-known by the general public as well as by the climbing community. The climber was also the former president of King Broadcasting, a political activist, a lawyer, an author and a businessman. Stim didn't start climbing until the age of 50 and didn't start focusing on technical rock until he was 65, but succeeded on a number of classic lines in latter part of his life. He has climbed Northwest classics like the North Ridge of Mount Stuart (5.9, IV), Dreamer (5.9+, IV), and Outer Space (5.9 III+). Outside the Northwest, Stim notably climbed Canada's Mount Sir Donald, Denali and completed a clean lead of Papa Woolsey, a 5.10b in Joshua Tree at the age of 78. To read Stim's obituary, click here. To read about some of his ascents, click here.
--The Index Town Walls of Washington feature one of the best concentrations of steep, clean granite cracks and face climbs in
A mama falcon protecting her egg.Photo by Lisa Doubet
--It appears that a pair of Falcons have nested on the classic line, Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth. All routes from Outer Space, White Slabs Direct and White Fright, south to the descent gully including Orbit are closed to climbing until July 31st. To read about a falcon encounter on Outer Space, click here.
Sierra:
--The April first start to the new water year has come and gone leaving the official snowpack for 2008-2009 below normal. As of April 8th, the LADWP website lists the water content of the snow at Mammoth Pass at 37.3 inches, or 85% of normal for the year. Rock Creek checks in at a low 30% of normal for the year, while South Lake checks in with 71% of normal for the season. Big Pine Creek is 74% of normal for the year. On the southern end of the range, the Cottonwood Lakes station checks in with 54% of normal. To read more, click here.
Mount Whitney from the Whitney Portal Store -- Yesterday!Photo from the Whitney Portal Store Webcam
--It looks like plans for a subdivision off of Whitney Portal Road near Lone Pine, could continue to be tied up in court. In March, the Inyo Planning Commission signed off on a revised Environmental Impact Report for the proposed 27 home development, called the Whitney Portal Preserve by the developer. Now the spokesperson for he group known as the Save The Round Valley Alliance, which has tied the development up in court for the past four years, says that they will appeal the Planning Commission decision. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--Crews continue to watch Mount Redoubt rumble. The following is from the Alaska Volcano Observatory's most recent post:
The eruption of Redoubt volcano continues. Seismicity remains elevated.
Clear web camera views show the steaming lava dome. Incandescence was visible on the web camera earlier this morning. Satellite data clearly show a thermal anomaly in the summit crater. Two AVO crews were in the field yesterday for station maintenance, sampling and observations. One crew will work on lahar deposits in Drift River Valley today.
Notes from All Over:
--Actor and funny man Will Ferrell joined adventure sensationalist Bear Grylls in the mountains of Sweden to shoot an episode of the Discovery Channel's Man vs. Wild. Apparently ice climbing and rappelling were somehow involved in the shoot. The episode is slated to be aired in June. To read more, click here.
--Hidden in the bone-chilling dark beneath an Antarctic glacier, a colony of strange bacteria is thriving. Scientists investigating the flow of blood-red water from beneath the glacier discovered the bacteria, which have survived for millions of years, living on sulfur and iron compounds they report in Friday's edition of the journal Science. "Among the big questions here are: 'How does an ecosystem function below glaciers?', 'How are they able to persist below hundreds of meters of ice and live in permanently cold and dark conditions for extended periods of time, in the case of Blood Falls, over millions of years?" said lead researcher Jill Mikucki of Harvard University. To read more, click here.
It looks like these guys won't be in our National Parks --Which is probably a good thing!
From the film Predator
--The issue of guns in National Parks has been put to rest for the time being. A recent court ruling has closed the parks to loaded and concealed weapons. To read about the ruling, click here. The popular political blog, Daily Kos has an interesting article on why this particular issue has come to the forefront. To read the article, click here.
--Some people like sledding on snow, some people like glissading down the mountain. In Nicaragua, they like sledding on pumice and other volcanic rocks. The New York Times recently posted an article about this weird form of Volcano sledding. To read the article, click here.
The Moab Diary: Our Grade III Climb (day one)
We awoke slowly. There wasn't much sense in rushing because I wanted to change campsites. The Jeeps were annoying me, and the rocky parking lot was doing a wonderful job of delaying the healing of my sprained ankle. Besides, "Sungam" had an open spot at another campground upriver and I figured there'd be more of a scene around his fire pit than what he had in the middle of 4X4-fest.Jello's
Conditions Report -- April 22, 2009
RED ROCK CANYON
Sunrise at Red Rock Canyon. Photo by Lisa Doubet
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The scenic drive loop is back to opening its gates at 6 AM instead of 7 AM.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Feel like checking out some painful looking off-width climbing in J-Tree? Click here to see a photo montage of a recent climbing trip to this incredible area.
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
-A couple climbers braved the long approach to the north side of Mt. Baker earlier this month and made an arduous, hard fought climb to the summit. Ryan Canfield, one of the climbers, created a fantastic trip report that tells the story of their climb in great detail and with plenty of pictures. He even added some videos, one of which you can watch below. Check out the rest of the report here.
Mt Baker Summit - April 5th, 2009
Mt Baker Summit - April 5th, 2009
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth andHighway 2.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--A group of backcountry skiers, while hanging out in a bar, decided to head up to Mt. Shuksan in search of some great turns. One of the skiers, Kurt Fickeisen, posted a great report of the trip on Cascade Climbers. Read more about it here and enjoy the photo below...pure North Cascade beauty!
Looking back at Mt. Shuksan from the creek bed. Photo by Kurt Fickeisen
--We recently found a website which features great daily video conditions reports for Snoqualmie Pass. These are put together by the Snoqualmie Snow Troopers. Follow this link to watch.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.
--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.
--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.
SIERRA:
--While searching for current Sierra trip reports we ran across some great accounts of some truly classic Sierra climbs. Although these trip reports aren't current they are well put together and contain great photos.
--Click here to see a climb of a serious off-width corner outside of Lee Vining.
--Don Chambers recently headed up towards Tioga Pass from the east for a recon mission on the current road and mountain conditions. He hiked a few miles past the gate and snapped some fantastic pictures. Check out the report here and the picture below. It is looking good...
Tioga Pass gate from the east. Photo by Don Chambers
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
ALASKA RANGE:--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Forecast for Denali
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
--The Alaska season has begun and we are accepting applications for our 2009 Denali expeditions and our 2009 Alaska Range Mountaineering Programs.
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