Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 10/14/10

Northwest:

The search for Kelly James and his partners on Mt. Hood in the winter of 2006
turned into an anti-climber media feeding frenzy.  James's body was found.  His two partners remain missing.

--The widow of a climber who died on Mount Hood four years ago returned to Oregon to retrieve his climbing gear and thank rescuers for their efforts.  Kelly James, of Dallas, Texas, died in a blizzard on Mount Hood in December 2006. His widow, Karen James, met with Hood River County Search and Rescue Personnel last Thursday.  To read more, click here.

--To comply with mandated budget cuts, Washington State Parks proposes mothballing six parks, including Squak Mountain, Federation Forest, Fort Ward, Peshastin Pinnacles, Tolmie and Flaming Geyser.  Peshastin Pinnacles is popular with Leavenworth climbers.  The park is often a place of refuge just a little further east when it rains.  To read more, click here.

--This year marks a banner year for visitation in Mount Rainier National Park. During the summer months, from June through August, there were 749,877 recreation visits to the park. This is 3.9 percent ahead of last year, when there were 722,008 recreation visits.  The next busiest summer in the last 10 years was 2002, when 737,508 people came to the park.  The lowest count was in 2007, when 648,718 people visited the park during the three summer months.  August’s visitation total of 287,089 was the highest for that month since 2002, when 296,000 people visited the park. It was also 8.6 percent higher than in August 2009.  To read more, click here.

--It appears that in early October a tent that was left set-up near Mount Baker's Cougar Divide was vandalized when the occupants left for the night.  As the occupants were hunters, they have made the assumption that it was hikers who didn't like hunters that did it.  To read a discussion about this incident, click here.


--For those of you who visited AAI's homebase in Bellingham late in the Summer or early in the Fall, you probably experienced some issues with construction.  We are happy to report that they are almost done!  In the preceding photo, you can see workers laying the concrete in our driveway with AAI's Director, Dunham Gooding overseeing the work.

Sierra:

Chantel above the Molar Pendulum on El Capitan's Mescalito on Monday
Photo by Tom Evans

--AAI guide Chantel Astorga has spent the better part of this last week soloing the Mescalito (VI, 5.8. A3) on Yosemite's El Capitan.  We have been watching Chantel work her way up the route on the the absolutely fantastic blog, El Cap Report.  There are numerous pictures of Chantel on the route here. It is expected that she will reach the top sometime today!

--At 11:30 on Monday morning, there was a massive rockfall event in Yosemite Valley.  The rockfall took place on the upper east side of El Capitan, far away from Chantel, but close to teams on Bad to the Bone (VI, 5.9 A4), Bad Seed (VI, 5.9 A4+) and Surgeon General (VI, 5.9, A5).  At this time it does not look like anyone was hit by falling rocks. To see photos of the rockfall, once again, Tom Evans at El Cap Report has the scoop and some photos of the rockfall.  To see it, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--On October 8th, Glen Canyon Chief Ranger Brent McGinn and Glen Canyon Dangling Rope District Ranger Laurie Axelsen took off from the Bryce Canyon Airport in a privately-owned Cessna 172 for a pleasure flight over Mount Dutton, continuing on to Page, Arizona. Both were off duty at the time and had flown to Bryce Canyon so that McGinn could meet friends and scout out hunting locations. Early on the morning of October 9th, Glen Canyon’s dispatch center received a report that the plane was overdue.  Shortly thereafter, a search was begun by Garfield and Kane Counties, the National Park Service and Classic Lifeguard, a local air medical evacuation service. Around 8 a.m., the crew of the latter spotted the plane in a rugged area known as Deep Creek on Mount Dutton in the Dixie National Forest. Both Axelsen and McGinn were killed in the crash.  To read more, click here.

--The second film trailer has come out for the new Danny Boyle film staring James Franco about the Aron Ralston incident...and by incident, I mean the time that he got his arm caught behind a boulder in the Canyonlands and had to cut it off with a pocketknife.  Check out the trailer below:



--Nevada voters appear to agree with actions taken during Legislature's special session to keep state parks open: Let visitors who use the 25 parks shoulder the financial burden for the parks operations.
A poll of 600 likely voters conducted by telephone from September 6th to September 16th found that nearly 69 percent favored raising user fees to keep Nevada's state parks open. To read more, click here.


Himalaya:

--Rescuers have recovered the body of one of the four climbers who went missing on the slopes of Mt Dhaulagiri on September 28 when a massive avalanche struck the 26,794-foot mountain. To read more, click here and here.

Notes from All Over:

--The Canadian RCMP say human remains found at the base of a mountain just outside Banff National Park are likely those of a climber who fell. Searchers found the body of a man in his 50s at the foot of Ha Ling Peak near Canmore, Alta.  Investigators say they have tentatively identified the body.  To read more, click here,

--Ten climbers died this year scaling the Colorado's tallest mountains, a possible record for tragedy in the increasingly popular pursuit of 14,000-foot peaks.  Yet even though the number of Colorado peak-baggers reaches 500,000 every season, the number of fatalities per 1,000 hikers could actually be declining.  To read more, click here.

--A deer hunter was injured Saturday when he was attacked by a female black bear and her three cubs as he sat in his tree stand, an incident that the Michigan Department of Natural Resources and Environment described as one of the weirdest outdoor events in memory.  According to the agency, Chad Fortune, was bow hunting just before dark Saturday on farmland in Bear Creek Township, Michigan, when the bears approached, climbed up his tree stand and attacked him.  To read more, click here.

-- Desert dust blowing on to the high peaks of Colorado is affecting stream flows and even changing tundra vegetation -- and now it’s been traced as a cause of avalanches in the high country, researcher Chris Landry said Friday, addressing a packed house at the annual Colorado Snow and Avalanche Workshop.  To read more, click here.

--Beto Pinto Toledo, Rolando Morales and Steven Fuente, Peruvian locals, recently completed a new line on the south face of Vallunaraju (19,251') in the Llaca Valley of the Cordillera Blanca.  The standard route -- which AAI regularly guides -- climbs up the west face.  To read more, click here.

-- Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden recently completed the first ascent of the north face of Sulamar (17,651') in the Chinese Tien Shan range. The pair sent the route in four days, giving it a TD+ on the Alpine scale. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report - October 13 2010

NORTHWEST:

-- WSDOT  just finished up installation of two new closure gates on the North Cascades Highway. The new gates are there for dealing with a mud or rock slide or possibly even a forest fire during the months the NCH isn’t closed by snow.  (We’ve had several such events over the past few years.)  The new gates are on either side of the area west of Rainy Pass where we’ve had those “summer” slides.
 
See this link to the FlickR page where some pictures of the new gates will be posted soon. 

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

RED ROCK CANYON:


Climbing in the Black Corridor. Photo Credit Jon Evans.

--Steffan Gregory, a Seattle native, reports: "Weather is good. A bit hot in the sun and nice in the shade. Bring extra layers for north facing routes."

--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:


--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.


SIERRA:

--ROCK FALL on El Cap. Click here. 

--Trails re-open after fires in Yosemite. Click here for more info.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

ALASKA RANGE:

-- For the most current updates on Alaska, please see our Dispatch Blog.

--Forecast for Denali.

ALPS:



--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.




AAI Weddings and Babies

It was a busy summer at the American Alpine Institute, and I'm not just talking about busy from the perspective of mountain climbing. During the warm months, a number of our guides had significant personal changes in their lives. Three AAI guides were married and one had a baby.

AAI guides Kurt Hicks, Andy Bourne and Dana Hickenbottom all got married this summer! And AAI guide Mary Harlan had a beautiful baby boy! 

Here is a short photo essay of this summer's weddings and babies.

Kurt and Noelle getting hitched by a guy who really loved the idea of using 
climbing as a metaphor in his sermon.  I don't think anyone anywhere has ever used climbing as a 
metaphor for anything before.  But we could be wrong...
Photo by Alasdair Turner

Kurt and Noelle trying to Escape from Alasdair and His Camera
Photo by Alasdair Turner

Here is a picture of Andy and Ann who decided that a good wedding picture must include a fire truck.
And who doesn't love a fire truck?
Photo by Former AAI Guide Matthew Anderson

Here is a picture of Dana and Monica who decided that a good wedding picture
should NOT include a fire truck, but should include train tracks.

And who doesn't love trains?  We thought it would have been funny if
there was a train coming in the background...apparently they didn't agree...

Mary's Significant Other with their new Baby in Indian Creek
If there is one thing is for sure, that baby is going to be a very very very good climber!


Sam was born on August 27th.  He was six pounds, five ounces.  And as you can see, he is very little and very cute!

Congrats to all the guides who have had major changes this year!

--Jason D. Martin

Gourmet Backcountry Food for Backpacking

AAI Backpacking guide Jeff Ries has a great advantage over our mountaineering guides. If you take out your rope and your harness and your pickets and your cams, suddenly your pack is a lot lighter. Some might argue that perhaps that weight shouldn't go completely away. Perhaps it should be replaced with food. Really good food.

Jeff has been cooking gourmet food on his backpacking trips over the last few years and has put together the following blog about how to eat really well in the mountains. Yeah, it might be a little bit on the heavy side...and if you're looking to lighten up then this won't be for you. But if you're okay with carrying a little extra and want to eat well, then check it out...
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Before leaving the trailhead, I like to have everyone enjoy the option of a treat from a nice bakery and offer everyone a scone or something similar. On the hike in on the first day I offer grapes and bing cherries at the first rest stop. They are a bit heavy to carry further but the water and sugar content are both well appreciated.

A good first lunch is some fruit and pastries, rather than a larger meal that could slow strenuous activity. I prefer eating a little around 11am and a little more around 2pm, so I offer snacks like fruit, gorp and energy bars. Gourmet crackers with flavored cream cheese, like Laughing Cow products work well.

It doesn't take as much effort to carry a little more weight to the first camp, I splurge a bit with beef stroganoff on the first evening. I grill some fillet mignon medium rare a couple days before the trip; it will cook the rest of the way just before it is served. Then I cut it up into 1 inch cubes and freeze it. It will keep other foods cold on the hike in. I cook a stroganoff noodle mix and then add fresh sour cream, a little white wine and then the fillet mignon. The rest of the wine is served with or before the meal. If it is cold and rainy, I also serve soup. If it is hot and the climb has been tough, it is a good time for Frito's or baby carrots dipped in french onion dip (made with the rest of the sour cream). Variations I have used for the first evening include grilled salmon instead of fillet mignon and apple slices dipped in carmel dip as the appetizer.

For the next morning, eggs and hash browns work well, especially with some tomatoes. I always have some flavored oatmeal for people who don't like to eat eggs. A little ham and/or cheese is nice to put in the eggs. I boil some water for tea, coffee or hot chocolate before the main course.

The second lunch is a good time for fresh fruit; apples or oranges. I also like to provide some quality dinner rolls or flavored bread (last trip the bakery had spinach feta) with some flavored cheese spread.

Dinner on the second night is a good time for ham as it keeps well for 2 days and a night (as long as temperatures are not too hot). I serve soup if it as cold and cold beer if it is hot. If I have a campfire, I wrap some potatoes in foil and put them in or by the fire while cooking fresh broccoli. If there is no campfire, I slice the potatoes and boil them. Chocolate covered blueberries make a great dessert.

The rest of the trip breakfasts offer a choice of precooked Mountain House scrambled eggs with bacon (sometimes with potatoes - the skillet selection), flavored oatmeal, granola and of course coffee/tea/hot chocolate.

Lunch on the third day includes flavored wheat thins with extra sharp cheese and salami. If there is any fresh fruit left over, we finish it up today.

The third night's dinner is time for something that keeps well for a few days. I prefer precooked flavored chicken breasts in a foil pouch, available at some grocery stores. I serve them with instant flavored potatoes and baby carrots. Chocolate covered espresso beans are a hit with the coffee drinkers.

Beef steak nuggets, Bakers breakfast cookies and dried fruit (different types) make great lunches an later days of a trip. Bagels and cream cheese also keeps well. Soup is always nice when it is cold and stopping for a long lunch, I sometimes build a campfire to warm bodies and dry clothing.

For dinner on the fourth and subsequent nights, I offer a variety of Mountain House brand freeze dried dinners. I want the backpackers to try different entrees so I bring several 2 serving choices. If anyone is still hungry after emptying the foil pouch in which it cooks, I add an envelope of instant potatoes and the appropriate amount of boiling water to make sure everyone has had enough. This keeps dish cleaning to a minimum as there are no dishes to clean these nights.

--Jeff Ries, AAI Backpacking Guide

October and November Climbing Events

-- Oct 8-10 -- Red River Gorge, KY -- Rocktoberfest 2010

-- Oct 8-10 -- San Luis Obispo, CA -- Pine Mountain Pull Down

-- Oct 10-12 -- Golden, CO -- Craggin Classic

-- Oct 14 -- San Diego, CA -- Allied Climbers Annual Fundraiser

-- Oct 23-24 -- Las Vegas, NV -- 2010 National Climbing Management Summit: This fall the Access Fund will host the 2010 National Climbing Management Summit in partnership with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and US Forest Service in Las Vegas, NV on October 23rd and 24th. The summit will bring land managers and field-level personnel who are involved in recreation policy and climbing management together to discuss best practices for

-- Oct 24-26 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- ClimbSmart

-- Oct 24-26 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Warrior's Way SPORT Camp

-- Oct 29-Nov -- Southwest various locations -- Chris Sharma Slideshow Tour

-- Oct 29-30 -- Red Rock, NV -- Make A Difference Day - Service project at Red Rock Canyon (contact Lisa at lvclc.admin@gmail.com)

-- Oct 30-Nov -- Banff, Canada -- Banff Mountian Film Fest

-- Oct 30-Nov 7 -- Italy -- International Mountain Summit Festival

-- Nov 5 -- Philadelphia, PA -- Penn Pull Down Bouldering Competition --  215.746.8622

-- Nov 6 -- Horse Pens Steele, AL -- Triple Crown Bouldering Series

-- Nov 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit

-- Nov 11 -- El Paso, TX --  Reel Rock Film Tour  

-- Nov 19 -- Sunnyvale, CA -- Bloc Party: A Planet Granite Bouldering Series  

-- Nov 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Stone Gardens 2010 Seattle Bouldering Challenge