Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/4/10

Northwest:

--One of the climber's on one of AAI guide Alasdair Turner's Mount Baker Skills and Climb trips, wrote an article on her ascent for the UK based magazine, Trek and Mountain.  The issue with the story in it is out and on news stands right now.  The piece not only feature's Alasdair as a guide, but also features a number of his photos.

--Timothy Egan of the New York Times, wrote an editorial about the goat related fatality in the Olympic Mountains.  Egan seems to believe that goats follow people for food.  However, most of us who have been around goats a lot, know that they really want the salt in urine.  To read the article, click here.

--The mountain goat that fatally gored a man in Olympic National Park wasn't diseased or disabled, but was in breeding condition, or the rut. Preliminary necropsy results show that the mountain goat, an adult male, did not have viruses such as rabies, encephalitis, plague or tularemia, according to a news release from Olympic National Park.  The animal was killed after its October 16th attack on Robert Boardman, 63. Boardman was hiking in the park with his wife and a friend.  To read more, click here.

----The death of Northwest-based alpinist, Joe Puryear, has had an incredible impact on the Washington and Alaskan climbing communities.  A fund has been set up by his family to bring his body back from Tibet.  To learn more about this, click here.

Sierra:

--The Sierra Fund released the agenda for the “Reclaiming the Sierra” Summit on Mining Impacts, an inaugural public conference on how to address the ongoing human health, environmental and cultural impacts of over a century of mining in the Sierra Nevada.  To read more, click here.

--We missed this when it happened in October, but it appears that a climber on The Nose lost part of his thumb in a leader fall.  His friends found the thumb and it was successfully reattached.  To read the story, click here.

Desert Southwest:


The Rebel Within (5.9 - 170')
First Ascent by Scott Massey and Kevin Hogan, October 2010

--A couple of weeks ago, we noted that AAI guides Scott Massey and Kevin Hogan made a first ascent in Red Rock Canyon.  Here is a link to their new route.


--In partnership with the National Parks Conservation Association, Arrowhead Mountain Spring Water held the first jointly supported, volunteer-based restoration project at the iconic Joshua Tree National Park to help revitalize and restore the park, leading up to its 75th Anniversary. Breaking ground on Saturday, October 23, Arrowhead representatives teamed-up with park officials and community volunteers to restore two highly travelled areas of the park – the Hidden Valley Trailhead and trails leading out to the popular rock climbing area, Houser Buttress.To read more, click here.


Himalaya:

--Ncell, a subsidiary of the Swedish telecom company TeliaSonera, has installed a 3G cell phone data network in a Nepalese town that should reach the summit of Mount Everest. This high-tech improvement will allow summit-ers to communicate with friends, family, and organizers from the top of the world.  To read more, click here.

--Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand recently climbed a direct direct route up the northwest face of Mt. Grosvenor (20,919') in Sichuan, China. Mt. Grosvenor, a neighbor of 24,790-foot  Minka Konka, has only seen one previous ascent in 2003, when Roger Payne and Julie-Ann Clyma ascended the western ridge.To read more, click here.


--In an amazing feat of solo endurance Silvia Vidal spent twenty-five days alone in the Kinnaur Valley in Himachal Pradesh, India, attempting first ascents.  Vidal was successful in her solo exploration and completed a new route on a kilometer high wall.  To read more, click here.


Notes from All Over:


--The preceding photo has been making its way around the web.  It appears to show an 800-lb grizzly bear chasing a seriously mauled bison down a road in Yellowstone National Park.  Many believed that this photo was faked, but Yellowstone officials have stated that the picture is indeed authentic.  To read more, click here.

--So this is fun and kind of weird.  There is a website that allows you to essentially "play dolly" with a cartoon rock climber girl.  In other words, you get to dress her however you see fit.  In other words, she can climb in teevas or rock shoes, etc.  To check out this quick diversion from whatever you're doing, click here.

--The American Mountaineering Museum, in conjunction with the American Alpine Club Library, is hosting the first-ever exhibition of art depicting climbing and mountaineering. It opens Thursday, November 18 at 6:00pm, with a free event that includes music and refreshments.  Alpine Styles is the first exhibition of its kind. It features works by Jamie Givens, Keith Svihovec, Emilie Lee, Mike Tea, and Renan Ozturk, who share their personal reflections on the climbing life through their paintings and illustrations. Many works are being shown in public for the first time.  To read more, click here.

Conditions Report - November 3 2010


NORTHWEST:

--Big storms in the PNW call for some decent skiing. Good coverage in well vegetated areas. Check out this Mazama Ridge report, and this report for Hurricane Ridge. 


Photo Credits Gary Holmquist.

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.


--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.








 

RED ROCK CANYON:

--Check out this report for Heart of Darkness. Weather is looking nice in the desert, as usual!

--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.


JOSHUA TREE:


--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.



SIERRA:


--Yosemite National Park just posted this sweet video about Yosemite glaciers:






--AAI guide Scott Massey reports from the Palisades area, treeline and above:  Prior to 10/29, conditions were less than great, with shallow snowpack on talus.  Varied degrees of crusts, all aspects.  Windloaded pockets, all aspects, definite slab characteristics.  6cm to breakable crust, facets to ground.  On 10/29, received 6" of new snow in the early morning.  That day we found light powder with massive wind transport.  Tracks were filling in within the hour below treeline, within minutes above.  Lee aspects should be rated "Considerable."  Hard to pinpoint wind direction -- lots of crossloading.  



--Check out the last El Cap report of the year, here.

-- Yosemite as Middle Earth? It's true. Check out these pictures.  


--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.


ALASKA RANGE:

-- For the most current updates on Alaska, please see our Dispatch Blog.

--Forecast for Denali.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.



Help Preserve Southeastern Climbing with an Online Vote!

The American Alpine Institute just received this notice from our friends at the Access Fund and at the Southeastern Climbers Coalition.


Help save more classic climbing!
 
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition asks for YOUR help to secure access to 2 excellent crags currently closed to climbing. We have entered the Pepsi Refresh Project grant competition at the $250,000 level. The winners are determined by public e-voting.  If we win, and that is entirely up to YOU, the SCC will use the money to secure access to climbing areas in Alabama and Tennessee.  The specific locations cannot be disclosed at this time because access hasn’t yet been secured, but trust us, they’re amazing properties to preserve and enjoy forevermore! 
 
E-voting begins November 1, 2010 and a direct voting link will be provided then.  You may vote for the SCC's Land Acquisition Proposalonce a day, every single day, from November 1 to midnight November 30, 2010.  Every vote is valuable and counts towards the cause!  The proposal with the most votes WINS! 
 
If you would like a daily voting reminder via email, please send an email to sccreminders@gmail.com. 
 
Please help spread the word!  More details and a link to the proposal for voting will be provided on November 1.  So mark your calendars, stay tuned on www.seclimbers.org, follow us on Twitter www.twitter/SEClimbers, friend the Southeastern Climbers Coalition on Facebook, and check out November’s issue of Deadpoint Magazine for the Triple Crown’s 2 page promo which includes a teaser about this grant competition!
 
The SCC is a 501c3 non-profit organization dedicated to preserving climbing areas for future generations to enjoy. To learn more about us, visit our website at www.seclimbers.org

We thank you for your support!
 
--
Paul Morley
President
Southeastern Climbers Coalition
205.886.8236
www.seclimbers.org

The link was released yesterday morning.  To vote for this cause, click here.  To vote via text message, text "104071" to the number 73774.  For more information, check out www.seclimbers.org.

--Jason D. Martin

Remembering Joe Puryear

Last Wednesday, October 27th we received tragic news that friend and former climbing ranger Joe Puryear lost his life while climbing Labuche Kang, a remote peak in Tibet. His partner on the climb was David Gottlieb, a current climbing ranger.

This loss has deeply affected everyone in our community. Joe was an incredible person and he will be greatly missed. Our thoughts are with Joe's family and with David, as he continues to deal with this situation in Tibet.


To read more about Joe's incredible life and climbing adventures please visit his
website.


"The Burrito" Hypothermia Wrap

Perhaps one of the most common and most dangerous ailments to affect the outdoor traveler is hypothermia.  And though many factors may lead to hypothermia, it is most commonly the result of wet clothing, a cold environment or improper clothing.

Most climbers encounter the onset of mild hypothermia at one point or another during their careers. Many of us have certainly hung at a belay station, shivering, and wondering why we didn't bring that extra jacket. But for most of us, things never get any worse than that.

The Mayo Clinic has an excellent description online of hypothermia and its treatment. As most of us will never encounter hypothermia in a context where a patient could be warmed in a hospital, some of the information on the site does not pertain to us. However the following description of what to look for is incredibly pertinent to the backcountry traveler.

Hypothermia usually occurs gradually. Often, people aren't aware that they need help, much less medical attention.

Common signs to look for are shivering, which is your body's attempt to generate heat through muscle activity, and the "-umbles":

* Stumbles
* Mumbles
* Fumbles
* Grumbles

These behaviors may be a result of changes in consciousness and motor coordination caused by hypothermia. Other hypothermia symptoms may include:

* Slurred speech
* Abnormally slow rate of breathing
* Cold, pale skin
* Fatigue, lethargy or apathy

The severity of hypothermia can vary, depending on how low your core body temperature goes. Severe hypothermia eventually leads to cardiac and respiratory failure, then death.

Severe hypothermia in the field requires immediate attention. Wilderness medicine providers have devised a simple treatment which relies on a variety of materials that most backcountry travelers normally carry. They use these pieces of equipment to create a "themal burrito" or a "hypo-wrap."

Thermal Burrito or Hypo-Wrap
  1. Lay out a tarp on the ground.
  2. Place 1 or 2 pads down on top of the tarp. Two pads are always better than one.
  3. Stack three sleeping bags on top of the pads.
  4. Place the victim inside the sleeping bag in the middle.
  5. Wrap the victim in the tarp.
  6. Provide the victim with hot water bottles. These should be placed under the arms and at the crotch. Additional bottles may be held or placed at the victim's feet.
A Themal Burrito
From the Wilderness Medicine Institute 

This technique is featured in WMI Wilderness First Responder Courses.

Hypothermia is a dangerous and often hidden predator in the backcountry. There is no question that the best way to deal with it is to completely avoid it. The best way to completely avoid it is to pay attention to yourself as well as to those around you. Wear appropriate clothing for your environment and try to keep things dry.

--Jason D. Martin