Red Rock Rendezvous - March 19-21!

The Red Rock Rendezvous is nearly upon us. And once again, the American Alpine Institute will be working with Mountain Gear to make the event a success.

Along with all of the big name athletes that are brought in for the event, our guides will be running clinics throughout Rendezvous. Michael Powers, Dawn Glanc, Paul Ivaska, Aiden Loehr, Kurt Hicks, Richard Riquelme, Forest McBrian, Alasdair Turner, Viren Perumal, Angela Seidling, Ian McEleney, Kristen Looper, Scott Massey, Alaina robertson, Kevin Hogan, Cliff Palmer, Lyle Haugsven, Mark Grundon and yours truly, Jason Martin, will all be on hand assisting with the event and doing everything that we can to make it the best climbing festival of the year.


If you're already visiting Red Rock Rendezvous, don't forget that we have a lot going on in Las Vegas around that time. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:
In addition to all of the events going on around Red Rock Rendezvous, don't forget that AAI will have all of our best guides available for private guiding and instruction in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more, send us an email at info@aai.cc or give us a call at 360-671-1505.

--Jason D. Martin

Guidebook: Red Rocks - Olive Oil (5.7) and Black Magic (5.8)

Juniper Canyon - Rose Tower

Olive Oil (5.7) - Five Pitches - Trad - Gear Anchors

Approach: From the Pine Creek Canyon parking lot, head out on the path out of the lot toward Pine Creek Canyon. When you get to the homestead, walk about 25 feet past the old foundation and take the path that heads left toward the creek. If there's water, cross the creek (if not, just cross the dry bed), and follow
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Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!

On Morning Edition today (yes, I listen to NPR) Joe Palca was discussing hibernation, and how not only Bears partake in the activity. Mosquitoes apparently join the act in their own form of "hibernation" - in which the females fatten up in the winter. A scientist he talked to led an expedition to Antarctica to explore the idea of arctic bugs, and how they survive. These bugs, or midges, implore amazing survival strategies, including the ability to freeze solid and almost completely dehydrate. I'm sure these climbers wish they had similar abilities...



A little more topical, I'm going to go rock climbing this weekend. The weather is looking to good not to take advantage of it. Index, Leavenworth - hmm not sure where I will head. I found this mash-up of climbs in Index and I really want to head that way, we will see. I hope you guys can take advantage of whatever weather is coming your way!

Route Profile: Pequeno Alpamayo

Bolivia's Pequeno Alpamayo is one of the prettiest little peaks in the Cordillera Real. The mountain looks a great deal like Peru's Alpamayo, but doesn't have the objective danger or the size of it's namesake. Instead, Pequeno Alpamayo is a striking and accessible peak that can easily be done in a day from the Condoriri basecamp.

There are two major routes on the mountain. The moderate Southwest Ridge and the more difficult Southeast Face. Both lines require four to five pitches of climbing. The Southwest Ridge is primarily forty to fifty degree snow and ice climbing, while the Southeast Face is a bit steeper with terrain that ranges from sixty to seventy degrees.

In 1990, an AAI team established the steeper of the two routes. During the 80s and 90s American Alpine Institute expeditions were responsible for dozens of new routes in the Cordillera Real.

The route selection on Pequeno Alpamayo often takes place based on how one feels. The mountain's summit rises to 17,618 feet above sea level, so the oxygen is a bit thin. Many who might see the Southeast Face as a quick jog will find it to be somewhat more difficult due to the altitude. Climbing steep terrain at 17,000 feet often requires one to take a bit more time on each pitch. This is primarily because climbers tend to take a few breaths between each tool placement.

Both routes are accessed by traversing an adjacent peak. Tarija is 16,601 feet and is often considered an objective in and of itself. This approach to the mountain provides for an excellent view of the potential routes. Many of the striking photos of Pequeno Alpamayo have been taken from Tarija's summit.

Following is a photo essay from a series of ascents of Pequeno Alpamayo:

The classic shot taken from the summit of Tarija.
The Southwest Ridge climbs the obvious ridge.
The Southeast face ascends the steeper terrain to the left of the rocks.
Photo by Miles Newby

A group of climbers descend the Southwest Ridge
Photo by Jason Martin

Two AAI Climbers take a break in the middle of the Southwest Ridge
Photo by Jason Martin

Pequeno Alpamayo from nearby Chachapamapa
The Southeast Face route climbs up to the left of the rocks
Photo by Jason Martin

To learn more about the American Alpine Institute's expeditions to Bolivia, click here.

--Jason D. Martin

Road Construction Closes Mountain Loop Highway

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest:

Weekday Access to Through Traffic Blocked

Everett, Wash. March 4, 2010— The Forest Service is closing Mountain Loop Highway 7 a.m. Monday through noon Friday beginning March 8 until the end of April. It will open on weekends. Workers will close various locations from mile post 42, south of White Chuck Bench Overlook, to mile post 35, south of Bedal Creek Bridge.

Closures next week on the north side of Mountain Loop Highway will block access from Darrington to forest road 49 and Sloan Creek Trailhead, which leads to Glacier Peak Wilderness. Hikers will need to come from Granite Falls to reach that trailhead.

The Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest is making road upgrades, including replacing older, deteriorating culverts and upsizing culverts to better accommodate the passage of fish and flood waters.

Call Darrington Ranger District for updates weekdays at 360-436-1155, or Verlot Public Service Center weekends at 360-691-7791. For updated information about trails and roads, go to alerts and conditions on http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/
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