Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 12/3/09

Northwest:

--A hiker on Monday discovered what appeared to be a human skull on the side of a steep hill near Sandy, Oregon. A 1960s-era pickup was discovered crashed about 40 feet uphill from where the skull was found. To read more, click here.

--Next Friday, the American Alpine Institute will sponsor an event to benefit the purchase of Index. The International Mountain Day event will be held in Bellingham at the YMCA and at New York Pizza. To read more about the event, click here.

Sierra:

--It appears that an 18-year old climber/boulderer from San Francisco is missing. The following was posted on rockclimbing.com and on supertopo.com this week:

My son is missing since last Friday 11/27 evening. I actually have no idea where he went but he took all his bouldering climbing gear (pad, shoes, chalk) and some camping gear (sleeping bag and pad) so he might be around any climbing/bouldering area within a few hours of driving from San Francisco Bay Area where he lives and was seen the last time. He especially likes Bishop.

Maybe some of you or your friends were in Bishop last weekend and met him? His name is Artem, 18 years old, skinny, 5'10" tall, pretty good climber and boulder, driving dark blue Infiniti G20 license plate 5LLB914. Here is one of his recent pictures http://vitalchik.com/artem.jpg

If you saw him or his car please PM or call me 415-505-1684.

Thank you,
Vitaly.

--Stephen Wampler is getting ready to climb a mountain. Wampler, who has used a wheelchair for mobility since birth, is about to do something that no one with Cerebral Palsy has ever done before. He will scale the sheer granite face of Yosemite National Park's legendary peak, El Capitan, noted for more than a century for the challenge it presents even to climbers without disabilities. Steve's training, preparation, and custom-designed equipment will all be tested in September of 2010. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--New Mexico State Police resumed the search Tuesday for a missing 67-year-old El Paso man who never returned from a hike at Emory Pass on Saturday. Robert Sumrall left El Paso early Saturday morning for a day hike in the mountains, where had gone many times before, said his wife Jan. He did not return home at the appointed time. To read more, click here.

Zion National Park

--A woman fell to her death while hiking Friday in Zion National Park, police said. Tammy Grunig, 50, who lives in Pocatello, Idaho, and St. George, was on Angels Landing when she fell, according to a news release from the Washington County Sheriff's Office. To read more, click here.

--The body of a Utah spelunker will be left in a cave after officials determined it was too dangerous to retrieve it. John Jones, 26, of Stansbury Park, Utah, died Wednesday in the Nutty Putty Cave, a recreational area on the west side of Lake Utah, after rescuers were unable to reach him in an inaccessible 18-inch by 10-inch L-shaped "pinch point," The Deseret News of Salt Lake City reported Sunday. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Chinese climbers Zhou Peng and Yan Dongdong completed a new route up the south face of Siguniang (20,505') in the Qonglai mountains of China on November 27th. They say the third time's the charm, but for the Chinese it was the fourth time before they completed The Free Spirits (VI M4 AI3). To read more, click here.

--Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort has revoked a woman's season pass for publicly criticizing the ski area's new operating schedule. Other ski areas in Colorado see the move as unprecedented and even strange. To read more, click here.

--The UIAA has recently introduced a search engine on their website that identifies all gear that has had safety or recall issues. To see the search engine, click here.

--Cardoc Jones and Skip Novak recently complted the first known ascent of Mt. Ashley (3,756'), the tallest peak on the northwestern side of the Antarctic island of South Georgia. Though the mountain is easily accessible, it has received little attention because it is not in one of the greater ranges of the island. To read more, click here.

-- For years, Lia Grippo has taught outdoor activities to preschoolers, coaching them on the safest tree branches to climb and the sturdiest footholds on hills. So for Grippo, a steep slope at a Santa Barbara beach was a natural challenge for several young children in her care, including her two sons. In a photo posted on the Los Angeles Times website, Grippo appears to be barefoot on an exposed fourth to low fifth-class slab. This is the slope where she took the children. To read more, click here.

Cheating Reality Video Shoot

Yesterday I went back up to Cheating Reality with Chuck Fryberger to capture some video of my new route. I'm really psyched because I think we killed it. It's so beautiful up there and the climbing moves are so interesting that we couldn't go wrong. Still, judging from the few stills I've seen and Chuck's impression, we got some amazing stuff. I can't wait to see the whole footage.

This footage will go into a new film Chuck is making and planning to release this coming Spring (2010). It sounds like he's got lots of other sick footage so I'm sure the video will be great. He also has an amazing camera that is movie studio quality. He and I are planning to do more shooting over the next month and a half to put together a section that profiles me as a climber and as an individual. I'm psyched to be working with him. Check out his blog to see some of the other filming he's been up to: http://www.chuckfryberger.blogspot.com/

For now you'll have to do with a few single frames from the video that will come out in the Spring. It'll be worth the wait for the real deal though, I'm sure. Just check out this amazing perspective!!!



North Bend Banff Show to Benefit Index

The Banff Mountain Film Festival has come to Washington. Last Night I went and saw the Bellingham show and it was AWESOME...perhaps the best one yet!

It looks like the show in North Bend, which will be a different show than the one running in Seattle, will benefit Index. For more information on the show, call 525-888-6397.

Next week, the American Alpine Institute will be running it's own Index Benefit on International Mountain Day on December 11th. To learn more about the event, click here.

--Jason D. Martin

Conditions Report -- December 2, 2009

RED ROCK CANYON:

--The
American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please
click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--The
American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Sno-Park permits are now available for purchase in Washington State. To purchase a permit and/or read more about them click here.

--Forecast for
Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.


--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.


ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The
American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.

--Forecast for Denali.

The Pre-Climb Checklist

There is no doubt that the vast majority of accidents that take place in the mountains happen due to human error. Indeed, many climbers read accident reports looking for the human error, just so that they can say to themselves, "at least I won't make that mistake."

This is a very dangerous thing to think. Any of us can make a human error mistake anytime. As a result, we should do everything in our power to keep such a mistake from happening. Things to consider include, tying knots at the end of the rope before belaying or rappelling, using an autoblock for a rappel, wearing a helmet, etc. In this blog post, we will go through the steps required for a safe and fun climb.

A Climber in Joshua Tree
Photo by Ian McEleney


1) Anchor -- Is the anchor you built for the climb adequate? If you're top-roping, are there two opposite and opposed locking carabiners at the top? Are the pieces good? If you're using bolts, are the bolts good?

Does the belayer need to be tied into a bottom anchor? The default answer is, "yes." If the belayer is not tied into a bottom anchor, you should be able to articulate why.

2) Belayer -- Is the belayer's harness on correctly? Is it doubled-back? Is the belay device threaded properly? Are you using a locking carabiner on the belay device? Is the carabiner locked? Usually a visual check is not good enough to prove that a locker is locked. It's always good to give it a quick squeeze check. Is his helmet on properly? Does he have a nut tool to remove gear if he's going to follow?

3) Climber -- Is the climber's harness on correctly? Is it doubled-back? Is the belay device threaded properly? Is he tied-in properly? Is his figure-eight dressed and neat? If he is leading, does he have the rack? Is his helmet on properly?

4) System -- Is the system closed? In other words, have you made sure that the end of the rope is either tied directly into the belayer or that there is a knot at the end? Open systems are responsible for a large percentage of climbing injuries and fatalities.

5) Commands -- Are you both on the same page as far as commands are concerned? Many people use different variations of commands and it's not a good thing to get them mixed up.

6) Multi-Pitch -- Do you have the climbing topo? Do you have food, water and clothes for the day? What is the weather forecast? Do you have a second rope in case you need to descend in an emergency? Do you have extra cordage and sling material to leave behind? Do you have a strategy?

Climbing is a game with few rules. One of those few is to make sure that you are completely prepared for the situation at hand. Go through the check-list every time. It could save somebody's life...

--Jason D. Martin