I've been in Yosemite for about a week now and the weather has been amazing. In fact, it's been so nice that it's been a bit too warm on Lurking Fear. I've worked the crux pitch three days now and am trying it again this afternoon. On the first day, I spent most of my time searching the rock for the minute holds on the crux 2nd pitch. I figured out most of the moves, but left some for later. My second day up there was pretty much a wash. I went up pretty early in the morning hoping that the route would still be in the shade because it's on the west side of El Cap. Unfortunately, the route is in the sun all day long this time of year because the sun is so low. I tried some of the moves on the crux pitch, but it was so hot that I was worried I'd slice my fingers to shreds. So I came down and did a bit of bouldering instead. The bouldering conditions were so amazing that I started wondering if I was doing the wrong thing focussing on a bigwall route. On my third day on the route, I came up late planning to do most of my climbing after dark -- strange to be doing that in November in Yosemite. I made progress on the crux pitch doing some long links and coming close to sticking the crux sideways dyno. The dyno is a bit harder now because a key hold that you used to dyno from broke. It still goes though and probably isn't too much harder. Hopefully today I'll get more links and stick the crux move a few times.
On Sunday, I'll head up there, haul the first three pitches and stay the night at the base. Then Monday morning, I'll have a last ditch effort at redpointing the crux pitch. I'm not too optimistic that it will go because the climbing is very technical and delicate and it's easy to make a mistake. Plus it will be difficult to keep my skin good and my feet from hurting throughout the whole pitch. Even if I don't redpoint the second pitch, I'll still climb the rest of the route and try to do most everything else free. If I do manage to pull off the 2nd pitch, I'll still have lots of hard climbing to the summit including the other crux pitch which could prove to be more desperate (though it is shorter). In either case, it should be a fun outing and the weather looks perfect.
I'm psyched.
Unfortunately, I don't have any interesting photos from the wall. I have a short low-quality video of me repeating Midnight Lightning that I'll try to put up tomorrow before I get on the wall.
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!
Ahoy there Weekend Warriors!
I found a couple videos for this weeks post that I really think you'll enjoy. They are made by the Rocky Mountain Sherpas, a very talented group of filmmakers who are passionate about the outdoors, especially when it is covered with snow! I hope you enjoy, both these videos are award winners at the Whistler film fest and are well worth watching.
Vertical Limit - An Instructional Video
Hold your breath! Okay, you can let it out now. There wasn't that much a reason to hold your breath, because the 2000 film, Vertical Limit is dumb.
It has been discussed here in the past and in many other climbing forums and blogs. There is no other way to put it...
Vertical Limit is stupid.
Maybe I should make this a little bit more clear. Vertical Limit is perhaps the most ludicrous climbing film of all time. There is not one iota of truth or reality in the entire movie from the beginning to the end. And in many cases, the storyline is so outrageous that it is actually comical.
So a small group of climbers decided that the best way to use the content of this film was to make an instructional climbing video out of it. Hilarity ensues...
--Jason D. Martin
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/19/09
Northwest:
--The body of a 54-year-old man from Coquitlam, B.C., was found in the Mt. Baker wilderness Monday, Nov. 16, close to where he was last seen by his wife. The man was reported missing at about 2:30 p.m. Sunday. He was found by search and rescue workers at about 5:40 p.m. the next evening. His name is being withheld until family members have been notified, said Deputy George Ratayczak of the Whatcom County Sheriff's Office. The man was found buried in about 18 inches of snow 60 to 80 yards outside of the backcountry gate of the Mt. Baker wilderness. He apparently had fallen off a cornice and was buried upside down, Ratayczak said. To read more, click here.
A Climber in Index
Photo by Alasdair Turner
--Cascadeclimbers and the Boalps have among many others have run successful campaigns to raise money for the purchase of the Index climbing area. The Cascadeclimbers event over the weekend was quite successful. The American Alpine Institute will be running an Index event on December 11th. To learn more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
-- On the evening of Sunday, November 15, park staff of Pinnacles National Monument assisted two male climbers, from the San Jose area, off of a climbing route after they had become stranded due to nightfall. Both climbers were uninjured. The climbers were able to place a cell phone call to a friend, who contacted the park, around 6:00PM after they could no longer climb in darkness. They were near the top of "Condor [Condom] Condiment", a 500 foot route on the Condor Crag formation in the High Peaks area of Pinnacles National Monument. The climbers were in different locations on the route and could not complete the final 100 feet without additional light. Rangers contacted the party via their cell phone and determined their approximate location and condition before the climber's phone battery was exhausted. To read more, click here.
----Federal officials plan to spend $11.7 million for about 5,000 acres of private land in national monuments, forests and recreation areas in three Western states. The largest purchase announced Monday was for 4,573 acres in the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument in southwestern Colorado. The 166,000-acre monument, about 380 miles southwest of Denver, has the country's highest known density of archaeological sites. This money also includes purchases in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. To read more, click here.
--Joshua Tree National park employees are at work this week closing off abandoned mine shafts. In the current phase of mine closures, National Park Service employees will close 11 holes at eight sites while contractors will close 29 holes at an additional 14 sites throughout the park. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--A renowned Slovenian mountaineer has been found dead in the Himalayas. Tomasz Humar, 40, last contacted his base on Monday to say that he had been injured while climbing a peak in Nepal. Viki Groselj, a fellow Slovenian mountaineer and friend of Mr Humar, told the Associated Press that he had broken his leg and become stranded. To read more click here and here.
Notes from All Over:
The Jungfrau
--The trial of two Swiss mountain guides charged with involuntary manslaughter for the death of six army recruits is underway in the eastern Swiss city of Chur. On July 12, 2007, the guides gave the go-ahead for the group of soldiers they were leading to ascend the Jungfrau mountain despite a high risk of avalanche. The defendants face up to three years in prison if found guilty by the military tribunal. To read more, click here.
--The second year of the American Alpine Club's Patagonia Sustainable Trails Project has kicked off with a trail-restoration educational course for 17 Argentinean rangers from eight national parks across Patagonia. The course, held October 24 to November 1, was organized by AAC member Rolando Garibotti, directed by Max Ludington, a National Park Service (NPS) seasonal trail crew leader based out of Jackson Hole, and coordinated by Claudio Chehebar, director of the regional office for all Argentinean Patagonia national parks. To read more, click here.
--Federal officials plan to spend $11.7 million for about 5,000 acres of private land in national monuments, forests and recreation areas in three Western states. The largest purchase announced Monday was for 4,573 acres in the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument in southwestern Colorado. The 166,000-acre monument, about 380 miles southwest of Denver, has the country's highest known density of archaeological sites. To read more, click here.
--Tired of constant threats to close California’s state parks, a coalition of environmental and nonprofit groups has proposed a ballot initiative that would charge motorists an additional $18 to register their vehicles in exchange for free admission to the state parks. The registration fee would apply to all California vehicles, including motorcycles and recreational vehicles. Larger commercial vehicles, mobile homes and permanent trailers would be exempt. In exchange, Californians would no longer pay day-use or admission fees at any state park. To read more, click here.
--This week we did a round-up of all the literary awards offered this Fall. To see them, click here.
--The body of a 54-year-old man from Coquitlam, B.C., was found in the Mt. Baker wilderness Monday, Nov. 16, close to where he was last seen by his wife. The man was reported missing at about 2:30 p.m. Sunday. He was found by search and rescue workers at about 5:40 p.m. the next evening. His name is being withheld until family members have been notified, said Deputy George Ratayczak of the Whatcom County Sheriff's Office. The man was found buried in about 18 inches of snow 60 to 80 yards outside of the backcountry gate of the Mt. Baker wilderness. He apparently had fallen off a cornice and was buried upside down, Ratayczak said. To read more, click here.
A Climber in IndexPhoto by Alasdair Turner
--Cascadeclimbers and the Boalps have among many others have run successful campaigns to raise money for the purchase of the Index climbing area. The Cascadeclimbers event over the weekend was quite successful. The American Alpine Institute will be running an Index event on December 11th. To learn more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
-- On the evening of Sunday, November 15, park staff of Pinnacles National Monument assisted two male climbers, from the San Jose area, off of a climbing route after they had become stranded due to nightfall. Both climbers were uninjured. The climbers were able to place a cell phone call to a friend, who contacted the park, around 6:00PM after they could no longer climb in darkness. They were near the top of "Condor [Condom] Condiment", a 500 foot route on the Condor Crag formation in the High Peaks area of Pinnacles National Monument. The climbers were in different locations on the route and could not complete the final 100 feet without additional light. Rangers contacted the party via their cell phone and determined their approximate location and condition before the climber's phone battery was exhausted. To read more, click here.
----Federal officials plan to spend $11.7 million for about 5,000 acres of private land in national monuments, forests and recreation areas in three Western states. The largest purchase announced Monday was for 4,573 acres in the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument in southwestern Colorado. The 166,000-acre monument, about 380 miles southwest of Denver, has the country's highest known density of archaeological sites. This money also includes purchases in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. To read more, click here.
--Joshua Tree National park employees are at work this week closing off abandoned mine shafts. In the current phase of mine closures, National Park Service employees will close 11 holes at eight sites while contractors will close 29 holes at an additional 14 sites throughout the park. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--A renowned Slovenian mountaineer has been found dead in the Himalayas. Tomasz Humar, 40, last contacted his base on Monday to say that he had been injured while climbing a peak in Nepal. Viki Groselj, a fellow Slovenian mountaineer and friend of Mr Humar, told the Associated Press that he had broken his leg and become stranded. To read more click here and here.
Notes from All Over:
The Jungfrau--The trial of two Swiss mountain guides charged with involuntary manslaughter for the death of six army recruits is underway in the eastern Swiss city of Chur. On July 12, 2007, the guides gave the go-ahead for the group of soldiers they were leading to ascend the Jungfrau mountain despite a high risk of avalanche. The defendants face up to three years in prison if found guilty by the military tribunal. To read more, click here.
--The second year of the American Alpine Club's Patagonia Sustainable Trails Project has kicked off with a trail-restoration educational course for 17 Argentinean rangers from eight national parks across Patagonia. The course, held October 24 to November 1, was organized by AAC member Rolando Garibotti, directed by Max Ludington, a National Park Service (NPS) seasonal trail crew leader based out of Jackson Hole, and coordinated by Claudio Chehebar, director of the regional office for all Argentinean Patagonia national parks. To read more, click here.
--Federal officials plan to spend $11.7 million for about 5,000 acres of private land in national monuments, forests and recreation areas in three Western states. The largest purchase announced Monday was for 4,573 acres in the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument in southwestern Colorado. The 166,000-acre monument, about 380 miles southwest of Denver, has the country's highest known density of archaeological sites. To read more, click here.
--Tired of constant threats to close California’s state parks, a coalition of environmental and nonprofit groups has proposed a ballot initiative that would charge motorists an additional $18 to register their vehicles in exchange for free admission to the state parks. The registration fee would apply to all California vehicles, including motorcycles and recreational vehicles. Larger commercial vehicles, mobile homes and permanent trailers would be exempt. In exchange, Californians would no longer pay day-use or admission fees at any state park. To read more, click here.
--This week we did a round-up of all the literary awards offered this Fall. To see them, click here.
Conditions Report -- November 18, 2009
RED ROCK CANYON:
--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.
JOSHUA TREE:
--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Sno-Park permits are now available for purchase in Washington State. To purchase a permit and/or read more about them click here.
Geoff Georges skinning up to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo by Jessica Todd
--Jessica Todd and her friend skied up to Mt. Rainier's Camp Muir last weekend to check out the conditions. She was rewarded with some good turns with the exception of some pea soup down lower. To read the full report click here.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.
John Mauro ripping up the powder at Stevens. Photo by Greg Louie
--Greg Louie and friends headed up to Stevens Pass last Saturday and were greeting by some fantastic conditions. To read the full report click here.
SIERRA:
--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
ALASKA RANGE:
--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.
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