AAI Expedition Summits Denali


AAI guide Forest McBrian called at 1:11 pm Alaska time Sunday afternoon with the following dispatch:


“This is Forest from 17,200 on Denali. Sorry I didn’t call in yesterday, but it was a very busy day! James, Bill, Jullian, Marc, and I summited last night at 9:00pm. We had a really nice sunny day. Everyone was quite strong and made it happen. They worked together so well. There were only four other people climbing the mountain, so we really felt like we had it to ourselves. That's quite rare up here.


We’re back at 17,000 feet eating and drinking, and soon we will leave for 14,000 feet. I’ll call again when we are further down the mountain, perhaps tomorrow.


Everyone says hello to friends and family back home. The whole team is feeling great and is very pleased with what we have accomplished. It was a long trip that took a lot of patience and persistence and it really paid off.


As we mentioned before, we are planning to pass our satellite phone on to the last expedition because theirs isn't working. So we should have some news from them on their progress before too long.


Talk to you soon.”


Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Welcome once again to yet another edition of Weekend Warriors - Videos to get you Stoked! This week I decided to focus on some hardcore first ascents...since there are few things more stoke worthy than heading out into the unknown and climbing something that has never been climbed before. Enjoy!

The first video features some Alaskan climbing in the Ruth Gorge. These guys put up 5 new routes in two weeks...talk about impressive!



The second video actually features the same climbers as the first video but this time they hopped on a jet plane and flew across the globe to establish a new route in the Trango Group in the Pakistani Himalayas. These guys don't mess around when it comes to hardcore climbing!



The final video actually documents a route that has been climbed before...just not with traditional gear. It showcases Matt Segal climbing "China Doll" (5.14) outside of Boulder, CO, a previously bolted line that hadn't yet seen a traditional ascent.


Cougars! (Safety Tips)

In yesterday’s blog we reported about the three-year-old girl who was attacked by a cougar in Squamish (to read that story, click here), so with this topic fresh on our minds it seems fitting to follow up with a blog on cougars.

First off here is a little general info for you. Cougars and their relatives can be found just about anywhere from the Yukon to the Southern Andes.   In the Pacific Northwest males range from 115 to 198 lbs and the females are smaller at 64 to 141 lbs.  These feisty felines will literally eat anything with meat on it from moose, elk, and horses down to insects. 

Once a large prey has been killed, the cougar will feed on the corpse for numerous days and this usually will keep them satisfied for close to two weeks until the hunger induced urge to kill rises again.  However, during the early months of a kitten’s life the mother will hunt and catch prey much more often, sometimes as much as one piece of meat every three days. 

And speaking of kittens and cougars getting it on kitty style, a male and female will meet for a brief "encounter" and then the male will disappear leaving the mother to raise the one to six kittens on her own.  As the kittens mature only one out of the liter is expected to survive to adulthood and live for the full 8 to 13 years as observed through various studies.

Now that we have been briefly acquainted with this beautiful animal, there are a few things you should know to help prevent a cougar from getting acquainted with you.  When you are out for a hike it is highly recommended that you go with a least one other person and be aware that cougars are most likely to be hunting at dawn or dusk, although they will hunt and scamper 24/7 if they feel like it.  

If you are hiking with small children, keep them close, as their high pitched voices and typical less coordinated movement seems to encourage cougars to attack.  It is also a good idea to make noise so that you don't surprise a cougar by accident. 

Most likely you will not run into a cougar while out hiking, but if you are lucky enough to spot a cougar and unlucky enough for it to become aggressive towards you, the experts advise that you should immediately pick up any children, make yourself as big as possible (stand up straight and arc your arms out to the side), pick up a large stick if any nearby, make eye contact and stare down the cougar, shout in a loud but slow and calm voice, and throw rocks in an attempt to scare it off.  These tips should help you from having a bad experience with these magnificent cats.

Below is a quick clip of a cougar attacking an elk.



Oh and one last obvious tip, if you find a cougar kitten in the wild, don't pick it up and play with it.  As with moose and bear, encounters with young and a nearby mother are not good at all.

Have fun out there!

-- Erik

Full Swing

The first couple of weeks in June of higher pressure and mild temperatures enabled many climbers to reach the summit. The climbing season has reached its full swing and it looks to be a great one.

Climbing rangers have been out again this last week on patrol. Look for new route reports on both Sunset Ridge and Little Tahoma as well as updates on the more standard routes.

June is coming to a close with weather more reminiscent of last year's June. Wind-accumulated snow drifts have been shin deep in spots. The new snow has skiers and snowboarders out again trying to get in a couple more turns.

Historically July holds some of the best weather and conditions for climbing. Hopefully this July will follow suit. See you up on the mountain...

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- June 25, 2009

Northwest:

--The Access Fund recently announced that an option agreement to purchase the 20-acre private inholding at the Lower Index Town Walls of Snohomish County, Washington has been secured. This popular climbing area boasts several hundred quality granite climbing routes and is only an hour drive from Seattle. Its proximity to a major metropolitan area and its short approach from the trailhead make this cliff line a popular after work or after school climbing destination for the Seattle-Everett area. To read more, click here.

--A three-year-old girl was out for a walk with her mom in their Squamish neighborhood at dinnertime Tuesday evening when she was attacked by a cougar. The child's father told CBC the girl thought the cougar was playing with her when it swiped at her from behind in Fisherman's Park near the Squamish River. She was in the hospital with lacerations Tuesday night but was expected to be okay. To read more, click here.

The North Side of Mount Baker Last Week
Photo by Jason Martin


--An injured climber was rescued Sunday afternoon from Mount Baker after falling 150 feet. The Whatcom County Sheriff's Office received a report of the injured climber at about 1:42 pm. Kenneth Capron, 56, of Spanaway, had fallen while descending the Railroad Grade -- a portion of the trail that follows the crest of a steep moraine. The climber was in and out of consciousness with head injuries until he was helicoptered off the mountain. To read more, click here.

--Mark Albrecht, a 22-year old hiker from Everett, went missing late last week. It appears that the young man missed a switchback in the fog while descending from Sahale Mountain near Cascade Pass. Once Albrecht realized he was lost, he pitched his tent and waited for the weather to clear. The decision to sit still likely saved his life. To read more, click here.

--Two hikers who were lost on Mount Pilchuck have been rescued. The Snohomish County Sheriff's office says a man and a woman who were hiking separately both became lost Sunday and then ran into each other. The man had a cell phone with a low battery but was able to call for help. Rescuers made contact with the pair Sunday night and helped them hike out early Monday. To read more, click here.


--Park visitation in Olympic National Park is way up. This apparently has little to do with frugal families in a down economy, but instead with a teeny bop fascination with the Stephanie Meyers Twilight vampire series. The books -- and film -- follow a teenage girl who lives on the fringes of the Olympic National Park in Forks, Washington. Fans have become enamored with both the town and with the National Park. To read more, click here.

Sierra:


--As many as 30 horrified onlookers watched as a male hiker fell from the cable route on Yosemite's Half Dome Cable Route on June 13th. It appears that rain may have contributed to the fatal slip on the popular "tourist" route to the top of the feature. To read more, click here and here.


Alaska:


The Alaska Volcano Observatory posted the following report this week on the Redoubt Volcano:


Early morning hutcam image shows snow accumulating on the upper reaches of Redoubts still-growing dome. The lack of heat on the higher slopes, and steam and blocky morphology of the margins and toe of the lava dome suggests the predominant growth is internal and radial; expanding outwards rather than extruding from the top center.


The 2009 eruption of Redoubt volcano continues. Seismicity has been low during the past week, but remains above background level. Seismicity is primarily comprised of small, discrete events associated with continued growth and instability of the lava dome.


Cloudy conditions have obscured most webcam and satellite images this week. Mostly clear webcam images today show continued steam and gas emissions from the dome. No ash signals have been observed in satellite or radar imagery.


Poor weather conditions throughout the week limited field work opportunities. One field crew was able to measure gas emissions from the plume and briefly observe the dome on Monday, June 15. The lava dome is now approximately 1,000 m in length, 460 m in width, and 200 m tall. Data suggest that the rate of dome growth may be slowing. This large mass of fresh lava remains unstable and could fail with little or no warning, leading to significant ash production and possible lahars in the Drift River valley.



AVO continues to monitor Redoubt's activity 24/7. AVO will provide frequent updates of the volcano's status and the earliest possible warning of significant explosive activity and other hazards.


Notes from All Over:

--Three American Climbers -- Majka Burhardt, Peter Doucette and Kate Rutherford -- recently completed two new big wall routes on the Orabeskopf Wall in Southeastern Africa. Southern Crossing clocks in at a solid 5.11+, Grade V and Painted Giraffe, clocks in at 5.9+, Grade V. To read more, click here.


AAI Guide Tim Connelly shows off a battlescar from the Maxidash
Tim was stung in the ear by a wasp while in the Competition


--Earlier this week we published an article on the Maxidash race in Kenya and one of our guide's involvment in the race. After 350 kilometers of driving and 16 routes in 24 hours AAI guide Tim Connelly and Lucas Gonzales won the event with 440 points. To read more, click here and here.


--Backcountry enthusiasts no longer have to forgo wine with dinner. Trek N' Eat is producing a dehydrated wine...which is kind of weird. The wine comes in a powder and has 8.2% alcoholic content. To read more, click here.


--The television show, Today, recently ran a piece on a couple of canyoneers who were videotaping a rappel in Zion National Park. During the descent, one of the climbers lost control and fell over 100 feet. To watch the segment, please click on the following link: