A couple of weeks ago, we posted a video of a carabiner strength test. The video was very popular. We got to see a press destroy a carabiner. Videos of gear breaking are always engaging. As a result, today we have posted a few more climbing gear testing videos from the UIAA. These are both terrifying and a lot of fun all at the same time!
--Jason D. Martin
June and July Climbing Events
--June 24 --Seattle, WA -- Steve Swenson, President of American Alpine Club
Steve Swenson is the current president of the American Alpine Club and a member of the Seattle Vertical World. He will discuss his forthcoming trip to an unclimbed 7,500 meter peak in the eastern Karakoram in India as well as climbing in Pakistan, China, and Patagonia.
Seattle REI, June 24th 2009, 7:00pm
--June 26-27 -- Boulder, CO -- 3rd Annual HERA Climb For Life Celebration
--June 26 & 28 -- Bend & Portland, OR -- Matt Segal Slideshow Tour in Oregon
Matt Segal is traveling to various cities in the US, and his shows will include images and video incuding England's famous Gritstone.
The is an hour long show, and there will also be some great raffle prizes.
--June 27 -- San Francisco, CA --ASCA Climb-a-thon at Planet Granite
--June 26-28 -- Gunnison, CO --Gunnison Rock & Race Festival
We're always on the lookout for events that bring the climbing community together. If you're aware of an event we don't have posted above, please feel free to email us with all the details. Event posts will be made at AAI's discretion.
--June 27-28 -- Rumney, NH --Women's Rock Climbing Weekend
--July 3 -- Harrisburg, PA --Climb up the 50
--July 11 -- La Fayette, GA -- Rock Town Clean Up
--July 8-12 -- Lander, Wyoming --International Climber's Festival
--July 18 -- Castlewood Canyon, Castle Rock, CO --Summer Sandstone Series: Castlewood Canyon Bouldering Comp and Clean-Up
--July 18 -- Raleigh, NC --American Alpine Club Wilderness First Aid Course
--July 18 -- Sunnyvale, CA --ASCA Climb-a-thon at Planet Granite
--July 20 -- Reel Rock Film Competition Submission Deadline
--July 25 -- Obed/Clear Creek, GA -- Help Clean Up the Obed
Steve Swenson is the current president of the American Alpine Club and a member of the Seattle Vertical World. He will discuss his forthcoming trip to an unclimbed 7,500 meter peak in the eastern Karakoram in India as well as climbing in Pakistan, China, and Patagonia.
Seattle REI, June 24th 2009, 7:00pm
--June 26-27 -- Boulder, CO -- 3rd Annual HERA Climb For Life Celebration
--June 26 & 28 -- Bend & Portland, OR -- Matt Segal Slideshow Tour in Oregon
Matt Segal is traveling to various cities in the US, and his shows will include images and video incuding England's famous Gritstone.
The is an hour long show, and there will also be some great raffle prizes.
--June 27 -- San Francisco, CA --ASCA Climb-a-thon at Planet Granite
--June 26-28 -- Gunnison, CO --Gunnison Rock & Race Festival
We're always on the lookout for events that bring the climbing community together. If you're aware of an event we don't have posted above, please feel free to email us with all the details. Event posts will be made at AAI's discretion.
--June 27-28 -- Rumney, NH --Women's Rock Climbing Weekend
--July 3 -- Harrisburg, PA --Climb up the 50
--July 11 -- La Fayette, GA -- Rock Town Clean Up
--July 8-12 -- Lander, Wyoming --International Climber's Festival
--July 18 -- Castlewood Canyon, Castle Rock, CO --Summer Sandstone Series: Castlewood Canyon Bouldering Comp and Clean-Up
--July 18 -- Raleigh, NC --American Alpine Club Wilderness First Aid Course
--July 18 -- Sunnyvale, CA --ASCA Climb-a-thon at Planet Granite
--July 20 -- Reel Rock Film Competition Submission Deadline
--July 25 -- Obed/Clear Creek, GA -- Help Clean Up the Obed
Whitney Climbed in Great Conditions
AAI guide Mark Grundon called in to report that he and Jamie Campbell (of Katy Texas - outside of Houston) had just summited Mt. Whitney. They climbed the Mountaineers Route, and said conditions were terrific:
"This spring and early summer we've had a lot of issues with thunderstorms, but we had it perfect on this trip. Besides great weather, we had four or five inches of fresh snow. It was actually better than some parts of the winter. We had snow covered ground all the way from Iceberg Lake to the summit."
"The snow covered all the loose rocks, so it was very comfortable walking and climbing. The final pitch to the summit was boot pack - with great steps kicked and well frozen. It was a fun finish. Amazing views needless to say!"
He reported that they climbed from camp near Iceberg Lake to the summit and back again in about 9 hours. They left camp at 6:00 am and summited at 11:40. They had a nice break on top enjoying great views of the Sierra high peaks before descending to camp where they arrived at 3:00pm.
"This spring and early summer we've had a lot of issues with thunderstorms, but we had it perfect on this trip. Besides great weather, we had four or five inches of fresh snow. It was actually better than some parts of the winter. We had snow covered ground all the way from Iceberg Lake to the summit."
"The snow covered all the loose rocks, so it was very comfortable walking and climbing. The final pitch to the summit was boot pack - with great steps kicked and well frozen. It was a fun finish. Amazing views needless to say!"
He reported that they climbed from camp near Iceberg Lake to the summit and back again in about 9 hours. They left camp at 6:00 am and summited at 11:40. They had a nice break on top enjoying great views of the Sierra high peaks before descending to camp where they arrived at 3:00pm.
The Maxidash
Last week it was announced that AAI Guide Tim Connelly and Lucas Gonzales will team up to compete in the Mountain Club of Kenya's Maxidash race, the premier and only race of it's kind in East Africa.
Lucas getting familiar with the Ndeiya site
For the uninitiated, the “Maxi-Dash” is an annual event for the rock climbers of the Club and for ‘climbing guests’ who would wish to participate. The idea is to gather as many points as possible by climbing set climbs at five different crags around Nairobi. These are Lukenya, Embaribal, Frog, Ndeiya and Hell’s Gate National Park.
The Maxidash has been held for over 20 years and many colourful characters and stories have been engaged in its history. This year however the 2 newcomers have seen to it to challenge the locals and mainly a set of 3 or 4 climbers that have consistently won the competition in the last 10 years. 'We shall see them really DASH this year!!' barked Connelly at the weekly MCK meeting where he announced his participation and threw down the proverbial gauntlet to those few climbers attending.
Tim working out the intricacies of Hell's gate's Main wall
Finding the descents, strategy of which routes to climb, when and general motoring skills on African roads is as important as efficient climbing ability. (Tim racing down so that he can climb up another route)
Spare wheel, food, plenty of petrol, liquids and good shock absorbers will see competitors through the whole day. There will be at least 3 hours of driving between sites, probably closer to 4 or 5, and Kenya is not known for it's great roads!! (one of the sites, Frog. a good hour from Nairobi and probably an hour and a half from the next site)
The next week will be filled with lots of preparation . Luckily this team is fitted out with a few pairs of 5ten shoes for both the climbing and approach/descent, a Toyota 4runner and lots of energy for this 'rumble in the jungle'!!!
--Tim Connelly, AAI Guide
Lucas getting familiar with the Ndeiya siteFor the uninitiated, the “Maxi-Dash” is an annual event for the rock climbers of the Club and for ‘climbing guests’ who would wish to participate. The idea is to gather as many points as possible by climbing set climbs at five different crags around Nairobi. These are Lukenya, Embaribal, Frog, Ndeiya and Hell’s Gate National Park.
The Maxidash has been held for over 20 years and many colourful characters and stories have been engaged in its history. This year however the 2 newcomers have seen to it to challenge the locals and mainly a set of 3 or 4 climbers that have consistently won the competition in the last 10 years. 'We shall see them really DASH this year!!' barked Connelly at the weekly MCK meeting where he announced his participation and threw down the proverbial gauntlet to those few climbers attending.
Tim working out the intricacies of Hell's gate's Main wallThe official rules state there is to be no sabotaging of vehicles, brought about after a particularly competitive year found wheels flying off vehicles at high speed. But they continue to not ban activities of route sabotaging such as banana smearing or baboon baiting (whatever that might be!!)
Finding the descents, strategy of which routes to climb, when and general motoring skills on African roads is as important as efficient climbing ability. (Tim racing down so that he can climb up another route)
Spare wheel, food, plenty of petrol, liquids and good shock absorbers will see competitors through the whole day. There will be at least 3 hours of driving between sites, probably closer to 4 or 5, and Kenya is not known for it's great roads!! (one of the sites, Frog. a good hour from Nairobi and probably an hour and a half from the next site)
The next week will be filled with lots of preparation . Luckily this team is fitted out with a few pairs of 5ten shoes for both the climbing and approach/descent, a Toyota 4runner and lots of energy for this 'rumble in the jungle'!!!
--Tim Connelly, AAI Guide
AAI AAI Expedition on Denali at 14,000' in Low Pressure System
Saturday June 20 at 4:53 pm Alaska time, AAI guide Forest McBrian sent the following Denali dispatch via satellite telephone.
“Hello this is Forest calling from Denali. We’re still at 14,000 feet. There’s a low pressure system creeping through starting about now that should last a few days.
“As you know, guides Kurt and Lee went down to base camp yesterday because Lee wasn’t feeling well. Aidan had flown in yesterday to replace him, so they met at base camp and Aidan and Kurt climbed all the way up here last night in one push. They went all night and just showed up this morning. They were very tired, so after breakfast they went to bed.
“Everyone enjoyed a breakfast of piping hot French pressed coffee and breakfast burritos, and now the team is busy doing chores around camp. Everyone is in a good state of mind, just waiting for conditions to become favorable.
“I hope everyone at home is having a good time over the weekend. I will call again when there is more news to report.”
NOTE:
You can follow the progress of all AAI Denali expeditions on the dispatch page of AAI's website: www.aai.cc The URL for the specific page is: http://aai.cc/currentnews/ Use the drop down to find the team you want to follow.
Dispatches are posted Monday through Friday on the dispatch page. Aside from special events (e.g., summits, major storms, etc), they are posted on this blog only on the weekends. On Mondays they are moved to the dispatch page.
Lack of a current dispatch indicates that the team is really busy, that they have had a problem establishing an adequate satellite transmission, or that they haven't been able to use their solar panel to recharge batteries and are preserving their batteries for safety needs.
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