Yep, it's getting to be about that time. Time for people to start getting ready for the winter ice climbing competitions. So today, we're going to get you stoked on the ice comps in Europe and in Ouray alike.
Our first video is from last year's UIAA World Cup ice climbing competition in Switzerland. These guys are really really good...
Of course in the United States we have our own massive ice competition. Ours is in Ouray, Colorado at the Ouray Ice Park. Check it out! These guys are really really good too!
Fun Climbs Red Rocks: Topropes and Moderates
AAI Senior Guide and Program Coordinator Jason Martin has recently finished his second guidebook, Fun Climbs Red Rocks: Topropes and Moderates.The majority of Jason's new book was researched and photographed while he was working with AAI climbers in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
A handful of AAI climbers submitted photographs that were used in the book. These included photos by Loren Larsen, Ronald Lee, Frank Mouawad, and Toni Sturtevant.
Numerous AAI climbers are featured in photos throughout the book. These include photos of Ryan Cooper, Gina Lee Decarie, Francois Fasquelle, Joseph Gsell, Kevin Hamilton, Howard Helbein, Jack Hibbard, Mike Larabee, Ronald Lee, Tom McCauliffe, Melissa McGeehan, Katherine Monte, Frank Mouawad, Katrina Newman, Karen Rasmussen, Winston Roberts, and Steve Santell.
The book has a moderate focus and is designed for those who wish to toprope, climb easier routes, or who wish to develop their multi-pitch technique. The book features thirty-one cragging and toproping sites and twelve multi-pitch routes. Photos are included for every area as well as route topos for the multi-pitch lines.
This is Jason's second book. In 2003, he co-authored Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide with Alex Krawarik.
--Ruth Hennings
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- December 4, 2008
Northwest:
--A 33-year-old New York woman has died while making her first climb of Mount Shasta in Northern California. The woman was climbing the Avalanche Gulch route on Friday and were at approximately 11,300 feet when one person slipped and pulled the rest of the team down. The group fell approximately 600 feet before coming to a rest. Team members administered CPR to the woman and engaged a personal locator unit. To read more, click here.
A hiker inspects the remains of the burned-out shelter in Monte Cristo.
--A small shelter for hikers in Monte Cristo has been burned to the ground. Though it is possible that the fire was an accident, arson and vandalism is strongly suspected. Hikers visiting the area must now bring tents. If you have any information about the fire, please contact the Darrington Ranger District office at 360-436-1155 or email the relevant fact to them at: rhuffman@fs.fed.us. To hear what people are saying about this, click here. To read about Monte Cristo, click here.
Sierra:
--Due to rockfall danger a portion of Curry Village in Yosemite has been closed. Park officials said 233 cabins will close permanently, or about one-third of the lodging units available in the area to park visitors. About half of the 618 cabins have been off-limits since a rockfall on the historic complex in early October. To read more, click here.
--A brand new backcountry ski guidebook is set to arrive in the Sierra. To pre-order a copy, click here.
Alps:
--Michel Vaucher, arguably the most famous and most active mountaineer in Switzerland during the late 1950s and 1960s, died on November 17th. He was 71. Vaucher is well-known for early fast forays into the mountains. In 1957 he made a four and a half hour ropeless solo ascent of the South Ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (Mt Blanc) and then the following year he made the first ascent of the now classic East Face of the Petit Clocher de Portalet (with Italo Gamboni, who has also just died). To read more, click here.
--The UIAA is pursuing disciplinary proceedings against French Ski Mountaineering athlete Patrick Blanc, who tested positive after the 2008 Patrouille des Glaciers, the long distance teams’ world championship. The Patrouille des Glaciers is a grueling race from Zermatt to Verbier. The race is characterized by its length, its high average altitude and the profile of its itinerary. Participating demands mountaineering expertise and exceptional physical stamina. To read more, click here.
--Linda McMillan, the new president of the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission, brings with her broad experience from representation of climbers in environmental projects. McMillan, who comes from the United States, was elected at the UIAA General Assembly in Iran in October. She is the UIAA delegate from the American Alpine Club (AAC) and has held various positions in the AAC including Vice President from 2000-2003. She has been a member of the UIAA Access and Conservation Commission in addition to the Mountain Protection Commission. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--In a new study, a Mountain Guide working on his masters in kinesiology at the University of Calgary found that young, well-educated males who make approximately $10,000 more a year than their less well-educated counterparts tend to be involved in more avalanches. This flies in the face of the idea that hot-doggers and ski bums bear the brunt of the avalanche fatalities. To read more, click here.
--Another new study indicates that hikers may be having a detrimental impact on carnivorous animals. The report indicates that even a quiet stroll in the park can dramatically change natural ecosystems. These findings could have important implications for land management policies throughout the United States. To read more, click here.
Heidi Wirtz
--The North Face athlete and professional climber Heidi Wirtz, co-founder of the nonprofit Girls Education International (Girls Ed), was notified in October that she was one of five semifinalists for the Inspiring Soles Award. Created by Crocs Inc. and Outside Magazine, the Inspiring Soles Award celebrates athletes who have dedicated their lives to shattering boundaries and raising awareness for meaningful causes. Wirtz has worked tirelessly for the past two years on fundraising and implementing projects for Girls Ed, and over the years she has regularly volunteered for HERA Climb4Life events, the Khumbu Climbing School and the dZi Foundation. To read more, click here.
--A 33-year-old New York woman has died while making her first climb of Mount Shasta in Northern California. The woman was climbing the Avalanche Gulch route on Friday and were at approximately 11,300 feet when one person slipped and pulled the rest of the team down. The group fell approximately 600 feet before coming to a rest. Team members administered CPR to the woman and engaged a personal locator unit. To read more, click here.
A hiker inspects the remains of the burned-out shelter in Monte Cristo.--A small shelter for hikers in Monte Cristo has been burned to the ground. Though it is possible that the fire was an accident, arson and vandalism is strongly suspected. Hikers visiting the area must now bring tents. If you have any information about the fire, please contact the Darrington Ranger District office at 360-436-1155 or email the relevant fact to them at: rhuffman@fs.fed.us. To hear what people are saying about this, click here. To read about Monte Cristo, click here.
Sierra:
--Due to rockfall danger a portion of Curry Village in Yosemite has been closed. Park officials said 233 cabins will close permanently, or about one-third of the lodging units available in the area to park visitors. About half of the 618 cabins have been off-limits since a rockfall on the historic complex in early October. To read more, click here.
--A brand new backcountry ski guidebook is set to arrive in the Sierra. To pre-order a copy, click here.
Alps:
--Michel Vaucher, arguably the most famous and most active mountaineer in Switzerland during the late 1950s and 1960s, died on November 17th. He was 71. Vaucher is well-known for early fast forays into the mountains. In 1957 he made a four and a half hour ropeless solo ascent of the South Ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (Mt Blanc) and then the following year he made the first ascent of the now classic East Face of the Petit Clocher de Portalet (with Italo Gamboni, who has also just died). To read more, click here.
--The UIAA is pursuing disciplinary proceedings against French Ski Mountaineering athlete Patrick Blanc, who tested positive after the 2008 Patrouille des Glaciers, the long distance teams’ world championship. The Patrouille des Glaciers is a grueling race from Zermatt to Verbier. The race is characterized by its length, its high average altitude and the profile of its itinerary. Participating demands mountaineering expertise and exceptional physical stamina. To read more, click here.
--Linda McMillan, the new president of the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission, brings with her broad experience from representation of climbers in environmental projects. McMillan, who comes from the United States, was elected at the UIAA General Assembly in Iran in October. She is the UIAA delegate from the American Alpine Club (AAC) and has held various positions in the AAC including Vice President from 2000-2003. She has been a member of the UIAA Access and Conservation Commission in addition to the Mountain Protection Commission. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--In a new study, a Mountain Guide working on his masters in kinesiology at the University of Calgary found that young, well-educated males who make approximately $10,000 more a year than their less well-educated counterparts tend to be involved in more avalanches. This flies in the face of the idea that hot-doggers and ski bums bear the brunt of the avalanche fatalities. To read more, click here.
--Another new study indicates that hikers may be having a detrimental impact on carnivorous animals. The report indicates that even a quiet stroll in the park can dramatically change natural ecosystems. These findings could have important implications for land management policies throughout the United States. To read more, click here.
Heidi Wirtz
Summit-at-Snoqualmie Development Plans
AAI recently received the following in a letter. This came a short time ago, but the newspapers of record, the Seattle Post-Intelligencer and the Wenatchee World have made this information public. Those who are interested in commenting on this proposal only have a short time left to do so.
Dear interested Citizen or Agency:
Enclosed for your review are the Final Environmental Impact Statement (FEIS) and the Record of Decision (ROD) for The Summit-at-Snoqualmie Master Development Plan proposal.
Ski area operator Ski Lifts, Inc. is seeking approval of a new Master Development Plan and authorization of site-specific implementation of the Plan. The environmental analysis for the FEIS was conducted by the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie and Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests through a third party contractor, SE Group.
The Selected Alternative includes the realignment or replacement of 11 chairlifts and construction of nine new chairlifts. It also includes night lighting on 25 new trails, 9.8 acres of added parking, a mountain-top restaurant at Summit East, and a SUP adjustment of 17.01 acres to incorporate Hyak Creek and the cross-country hut at Grand Junction into the special use permit (SUP) area.
The public comments received during the DEIS comment period were used in combination with additional research and anylisis to update and finalize the FEIS and assist the Forest Service in refining and selecting the appropriate alternative for this decision. Based on public comments received, additional analysis of several key issues was conducted, which resulted in modifications to the DEIS Preferred Alternative and clarification of some componenets and effects of alternatives in the FEIS.
The FEIS and ROD are available electronically for viewing or downloading on the Forest's website at http://www.fs.fed.us/r6mbs/projects/summit-at-snoqualmie. If you had specifically requested the FEIS and ROD as a CD or hard copy, the documents are enclosed in your preferred format. Copies of the FEIS and ROD are avaliable as a CD or hard copy upon request.
The Notice of Availability is expected to be published in the Federal Register on November 21, 2008. The ROD is subject to appeal only by individuals or organizations who submitted comments during the comment period pursuant to Forest Service regulations at 36 CFR 215.6. The notice of appeal must be postmarked, hand-delivered, or faxed to the Regional Forester, or sent electronically to appeals-pacificnorthwest-regional-office@fs.fed.us and within 45 days of the date of publication of notice in The Seattle Post-Intelligencer and the Wenatchee World (the newspapers of record). Specific filing information is on pp. 50-51 of the ROD.
For further information regarding this proposal, you may contact winter sports specialist Sean Wetterberg at the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest by phone (425)783-6022, fax:(425)783-0214 or email: swetterberg@fs.fed.us. I appreciate your interest in this project.
Sincerely,
Y. Robert Iwatmoto
Forest Supervisor
Conditions Report -- December 3, 2008
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
Two climbers make their way up the Solar Slab Gully (II 5.4)
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
AAI Guide Ian McEleney in Joshua Tree
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
There is no waterfall ice to speak of in the Cascades yet. This picture of Pan Dome Falls
was taken on November 30th. Note the running water in the center of the picture.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth and Highway 2.
----A small shelter for hikers in the Monte Cristo area has been burned to the ground. Though it is possible that the fire was an accident, arson and vandalism is strongly suspected. Hikers visiting the area must now bring tents.
--The Whistler-Blackcomb Ski Resort is about to open a new gondola which will allow access between the two sides of the resort without making skiers and boarder drop down into the valley below. To read more, click here.
Stephen Bobick negotiates dry conditions on Red Mountain
Photo by Cole Caplan
--The long warm weekend provided mixed weather for climbers and skiers. The latter part of the weekend was quite nice and a lot of people got out. This party trekked up to the Hidden Lake Saddle. This party found absolutely desolate conditions on Red Mountain. And these guys got after it, but got soaked.
--Though none of the ski resorts are open, there is certainly more snow than there was a month ago. The skiers who go high can find something worth writing home about. This party toured Rainy Pass. This party got out near Black Peak. And of course, as usual, parties got out to the Muir Snowfield.
SIERRA:
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
--The Alaska season is over until April of 2009, but we are already in the process of gearing up for it. We are now accepting applications for our 2009 Denali expeditions.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
Two climbers make their way up the Solar Slab Gully (II 5.4)--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
AAI Guide Ian McEleney in Joshua TreeNORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
There is no waterfall ice to speak of in the Cascades yet. This picture of Pan Dome Fallswas taken on November 30th. Note the running water in the center of the picture.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
Snow conditions in the Cascades remain poor.
This photo was taken at the Mount Baker Ski Area on November 30st.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.This photo was taken at the Mount Baker Ski Area on November 30st.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth and Highway 2.
----A small shelter for hikers in the Monte Cristo area has been burned to the ground. Though it is possible that the fire was an accident, arson and vandalism is strongly suspected. Hikers visiting the area must now bring tents.
--The Whistler-Blackcomb Ski Resort is about to open a new gondola which will allow access between the two sides of the resort without making skiers and boarder drop down into the valley below. To read more, click here.
Stephen Bobick negotiates dry conditions on Red MountainPhoto by Cole Caplan
--Though none of the ski resorts are open, there is certainly more snow than there was a month ago. The skiers who go high can find something worth writing home about. This party toured Rainy Pass. This party got out near Black Peak. And of course, as usual, parties got out to the Muir Snowfield.
SIERRA:
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Forecast for Denali
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
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