Patagonia Trek & Climb Underway!

Our first Patagonia trek of the Argentine summer season began this morning! Climbers started the day with a tour of Perito Moreno, one of the world's major ice flows.

Randy and Nick Solakian, along with photographer, Phil Starr, hiking around the Perito Moreno glacier.

The Perito Moreno ice flow is just a short drive from El Calafate, where our climbers met last night and got a taste of the local culture.


Enjoying great Argentine food and music at a open air restaurant in El Calafate. Photo by Phil Starr.

Our three climbers made their way back to El Calafate, and are now in the midst of a three and a half hour bus ride to El Chalten, a small mountain village at the base of Cerro Fitzroy Range.


Bust depot in El Calafate moments before departing for El Chalten. Photo by Phil Starr.

Tomorrow morning, Randy, Nick, and Phil will start the day with a brief gear check and orientation of their trip. They will then begin hiking to Campamento Bridwell base camp, located south of the Torre Glacier which flows between Cerro Torre on the west and Fitzroy on the east. In a few days they will be climbing Cerro Velluda below the east face of Fitzroy and then Gorra Blanca near the edge of the Patagonia Ice Cap.

Stay tuned!

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- November 20, 2008

Northwest:

Mount Hood -- 11,249'

--Two years ago, a winter ascent of the technical North Face of Mount Hood went terribly wrong for three strong climbers. Kelly James, Brian Hall and Jerry Cooke perished in an unexpected storm high on the mountain...and the search for the trio became an international news story. Pundits who knew absolutely nothing about mountain climbing shared terribly misinformed opinions about the sport and about the decisions that these three climbers made. Now Karen James -- Kelly James' widow -- has come out with a book about the tragedy. It appears that the book is designed to refute much of the reactionary responses to her husband's decisions. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Washington state climber Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb recently made the first ascent of Kang Nachugo (22,096') in the Rolwaling Himal, Nepal. The previously unclimbed peak lies on the Tibet/Nepal border. Puryear and Gottlieb sent the new line alpine style in five days. To read more, click here.

--Spaniards Carlos Buhler and Joan Solé Rovirosa recently climbed a new line on the East Face of Cerro Castillo in Chilean Patagonia. Until their ascent, which began on October 6th, the mountain only sported two other routes. To read more, click here.

--Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, a pair of strong French climbers, recently climbed a new route on the south face of Nuptse (25,800'). The team pioneered the line alpine style. Unfortunately they were forced to descend due to the severe threat of frostbite and hypothermia at 25,262'. To read more, click here.

--Fabrizio Zangrilli, a Boulder based mountain guide, recently led a rescue on Pumori, a peak near Mount Everest in the Himalaya. Corrine Favre, a French athlete who specializes in high-altitude skiing and running, was hit by a massive block of ice at about 6,000 meters. Zangrilli took charge of the 24-hour rescue effort, rappelling and carrying Favre to the base where a doctor was able to initiate emergency medical treatment and a helicopter was called for immediate evacuation. To read more, click here.

--Alpinist magazine is for sale. It appears that the owners and editors of the magazine have decided that the only way to reopen their doors is under new ownership. Interested parties may check it out here.

--The New York Times editorial page reports that the recent election was indicative of America's wish to preserve open spaces. Voters approved $7.3 billion in new spending for parks and open-space preservation. Sixty-two of the 87 referendums to acquire or otherwise protect open space were approved. It appears that the support came in both rural, Republican areas, as well as in those areas that lean toward the Democrats. To read more, click here.

--Recent test results indicate that a wildlife biologist in Grand Canyon National Park died of plague after handling a dead animal. The death of 37-year-old Eric York last week triggered a health scare that led to about 30 people being given antibiotics as a precaution. An official who has been briefed on the test results confirmed Friday that they were positive for plague. To read more, click here.

--Those who have spent time in the Red River Gorge over the last few years are certainly aware of Liz and Rick Webber, the generous owners of Muir Valley. The Webbers have long provided the climbing community with unfettered access to the largest concentration of moderate climbing in the gorge. The Webbers may soon lose their property as a restructuring of a nearby highway has resulted in plans that may force them to turn over Muir Valley to the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet through the imminent domain law. To read more and to find out what you can do to help, please click here.

Lance Hering

--Twenty-three year-old marine Lance Hering was recently arrested after disappearing two years ago. At the time it was reported that Hering fell and suffered an injury to his head in a rock-climbing accident at Eldorado Canyon State Park in Colorado. After the incident was reported by a friend, Steve Powers, it appeared that Hering had wandered away. The report prompted a five-day search that involved roughly 600 volunteers from 40 different agencies. It was the largest search effort ever in Boulder County, encompassing the canyon area southwest of Boulder. After police repeatedly questioned the man, Powers admitted to lying. He pleaded guilty to false reporting last year. He said he was just helping a friend because he didn't want Hering to get killed in Iraq. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report -- November 19, 2008

Red Rock Canyon:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is in the process of developing a new 23 million dollar visitor center. The existing center will be converted into administrative offices. The foundation for the new center has been poured and construction is well on its way.

The new Red Rock Canyon Visitor Center is slated to open in 2010.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

A climber belays up a follower in a Single Pitch Instructor
Course run by AAI Guide Jason Martin last week.


--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for North Cascades National Park.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Webcam for Mount Rainier National Park.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Great Fall weather in the Pacific Northwest over the weekend lead to a number of successful ascents. This party party found good conditions on the Southwest Couloir of South Early Winter Spire. However, it sounds like the approach included some difficulties. This party climbed Mount Saint Helens and found people taking pictures of a woman in a bikini on the summit...which is weird.

--There is some snow in the mountains, not much, but some. And with any type of snow come the backcountry skiers. This party skied the Coleman Pinnacle. This party found poor ski conditions on Mount Adams.

SIERRA:


--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--A very cool, very photo-heavy trip report for a trip to the Needles may be found here.

--Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort is completely open from top to bottom. California in-bounds skiers have been getting after it for a few weeks now!

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

Climbers high on Denali in 2008
Photo by Jeremy Ellison


--The Alaska season is over until April of 2009, but we are already in the process of gearing up for it. We are now accepting applications for our 2009 Denali expeditions. Here are some reasons that you should think about climbing Denali this year.

CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:

Climbing magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.

Ice Climbing in Washington

A few years ago, I was invited to participate in a segment on ice climbing for the public television show, Oregon Field Guide. Unfortunately for us all, I recently found clips from that episode on youtube.

After the producer called me, I got in touch with a few people who used to work here (Mark Allen and Gene Pires) as well as Alex Krawarik, whom I wrote an ice climbing guidebook with some time ago. Everybody was psyched to go out, climb some ice and be on television. A bit of the psyche drained away when we realized what this would really entail.

Though in shape, the camera crew wasn't used to long slogs in snow shoes. As such, it took us a long long time to get to the base of the routes. Neither of our objectives were in very good condition. Indeed, the route that Mark and I climbed was in terrible shape and took an extremely long time to send.

My favorite element of this video revolves around the fact that they put a microphone next to my mouth. As a result, while I'm climbing low-angled ice my breathing sounds as if I'm completely and utterly worked; whereas everybody else climbs in complete silence...apparently not breathing at all...





--Jason D. Martin

November and December Climbing Events

--November 19 -- Las Vegas, NV -- LVCLC Meeting

--November 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Climbing in China

--November 20 -- San Francisco, CA -- North America Wall

--November 22 -- Seattle, WA -- Seattle Bouldering Challenge

--November 22 -- Bellevue, WA -- Ski Mountaineering in the Central Caucasus

--November 28-30 -- Los Angeles, CA -- ATS Outdoor Adventure Festival

--November 30 -- Contest -- Defenders of Wildlife Writing Contest

--December 2 -- Bellingham, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival Tour

--December 3-5 -- Seattle, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival Tour

--December 11-13 -- Mora, MN -- Sandstone Ice Festival