Hi folks,
The most recent trip report is posted here on Climbing.com. I'm no poet, but I took a shot at writing a poem anyway. Because of the way the text wraps around the photos, it doesn't quite look as I submitted it, but that's OK. I really have no clue if it's any good or not. Here is the beginning to give you an idea:
Upon the passing of Hurricane Earl;
he flew in just before
we drove
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/30/10
Northwest:
--Well known and respected climber, guide book author, and all-around stand up guy is missing and presumed dead after a fall in the Pleiades Saturday afternoon. Dallas Kloke, 71, was part of a 5 person team and was nearing the summit of one of the peaks when he grabbed a rock that moved and pulled off. He and the rock tumbled down a near vertical face before disappearing below. His climbing partners descended 300 feet and found articles of his equipment, however no Kloke. To read more about this tragedy, click here or here.
--Volunteers got together back in early September to clean up a rock climbing area in Northern Idaho as part of the seventh annual Adopt-A-Crag series put on by the Access Fund. New climbing areas were cleaned and rock walls were sand-blasted of graffiti at the Q'emilin Park. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--Yosemite National Park was designated by an Act of Congress on October 1, 1890, making it the third national park in the United States, after Yellowstone (1872) and Sequoia (1890). Friday, October 1, 2010 marks the 120th birthday of the park. Although the park is celebrating its 120th birthday, Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias have been preserved since 1864. Congress passed a bill, which was signed by President Abraham Lincoln on June 30, 1864 that set aside Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove, that stated the lands be held “…for public use, resort, and recreation…inalienable for all time.” This was truly the birth of the national park concept, since this was the first time in history that land was set aside purely for preservation and recreation for all people. The Grant was administered by the State of California until 1906, when Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias were ceded to the federal government and included in Yosemite National Park. To read more, click here.
--Last Monday, Steve Wampler became the first man to climb El Cap with Cerebral Palsy, in attempt to raise money for his foundation which pays for disabled children to attend specialized wilderness camps. Despite dehydration, hallucination, fatigue, and many other challenges, Wampler persevered and accomplished his goal. To visit his foundation's web page, click here, and to read about his climb, click here.
--A great story surrounding booty in Yosemite has been written about in Colorado's dailycamera. While this may sound off base, they are talking about stuck gear that is cleaned, or "bootied" off of climbing routes. To read a strangely heart warming story revolving found gear, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--A Utah man fell nearly eighty feet in a climbing fall in Big Cottonwood Canyon on Sunday. The 22-year old man was climbing near a group of students when he apparently became disconnected by the rope somehow. He was able to keep the rope in his hands, and as such suffered severely burned hands - however amazingly he had no lower body injuries. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) has been accepted as a member of the global body governing mountaineering. This gives the HMI voting rights, meaning it can now play a role in deciding international rules and policies regarding climbing. Additionally, the basic and advanced certification courses the HMI offers will now be recognized by the Union Internationale Des Association D'alpinisme (UIAA). This is a big deal for the HMI, and to read more you can click here.
--Climbers in Nepal have gone missing after an avalanche on Dhaulagiri, a mountain considered one of the most difficult and dangerous in the world. Three Japanese climbers and their guide were caught in the avalanche, while others were able to escape. Multiple climbers and Sherpa were evacuated by air off the Himalayan peak, the seventh tallest in the world. The missing four however, are still being searched for. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--56 year old climbing legend Kurt Albert died on the 29th after failing to recover from serious injuries related to a fall on a Via Ferrata route in Germany. Exact details of how the fall occurred are unknown, however the fall was reported to be 18 meters. Albert is the man who coined the term "redpoint," for sport climbers back in 1975, and pioneered climbing around the world. To read more, click here.
--Well known and respected climber, guide book author, and all-around stand up guy is missing and presumed dead after a fall in the Pleiades Saturday afternoon. Dallas Kloke, 71, was part of a 5 person team and was nearing the summit of one of the peaks when he grabbed a rock that moved and pulled off. He and the rock tumbled down a near vertical face before disappearing below. His climbing partners descended 300 feet and found articles of his equipment, however no Kloke. To read more about this tragedy, click here or here.
--Volunteers got together back in early September to clean up a rock climbing area in Northern Idaho as part of the seventh annual Adopt-A-Crag series put on by the Access Fund. New climbing areas were cleaned and rock walls were sand-blasted of graffiti at the Q'emilin Park. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--Yosemite National Park was designated by an Act of Congress on October 1, 1890, making it the third national park in the United States, after Yellowstone (1872) and Sequoia (1890). Friday, October 1, 2010 marks the 120th birthday of the park. Although the park is celebrating its 120th birthday, Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias have been preserved since 1864. Congress passed a bill, which was signed by President Abraham Lincoln on June 30, 1864 that set aside Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove, that stated the lands be held “…for public use, resort, and recreation…inalienable for all time.” This was truly the birth of the national park concept, since this was the first time in history that land was set aside purely for preservation and recreation for all people. The Grant was administered by the State of California until 1906, when Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias were ceded to the federal government and included in Yosemite National Park. To read more, click here.
--Last Monday, Steve Wampler became the first man to climb El Cap with Cerebral Palsy, in attempt to raise money for his foundation which pays for disabled children to attend specialized wilderness camps. Despite dehydration, hallucination, fatigue, and many other challenges, Wampler persevered and accomplished his goal. To visit his foundation's web page, click here, and to read about his climb, click here.
--A great story surrounding booty in Yosemite has been written about in Colorado's dailycamera. While this may sound off base, they are talking about stuck gear that is cleaned, or "bootied" off of climbing routes. To read a strangely heart warming story revolving found gear, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--A Utah man fell nearly eighty feet in a climbing fall in Big Cottonwood Canyon on Sunday. The 22-year old man was climbing near a group of students when he apparently became disconnected by the rope somehow. He was able to keep the rope in his hands, and as such suffered severely burned hands - however amazingly he had no lower body injuries. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) has been accepted as a member of the global body governing mountaineering. This gives the HMI voting rights, meaning it can now play a role in deciding international rules and policies regarding climbing. Additionally, the basic and advanced certification courses the HMI offers will now be recognized by the Union Internationale Des Association D'alpinisme (UIAA). This is a big deal for the HMI, and to read more you can click here.
--Climbers in Nepal have gone missing after an avalanche on Dhaulagiri, a mountain considered one of the most difficult and dangerous in the world. Three Japanese climbers and their guide were caught in the avalanche, while others were able to escape. Multiple climbers and Sherpa were evacuated by air off the Himalayan peak, the seventh tallest in the world. The missing four however, are still being searched for. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--56 year old climbing legend Kurt Albert died on the 29th after failing to recover from serious injuries related to a fall on a Via Ferrata route in Germany. Exact details of how the fall occurred are unknown, however the fall was reported to be 18 meters. Albert is the man who coined the term "redpoint," for sport climbers back in 1975, and pioneered climbing around the world. To read more, click here.
Conditions Report - September 29 2010
NORTHWEST:
--If you're heading to Smith Rock anytime soon, and want to climb something less traveled, check out European Vacation. Good route beta can be found here. Snow is still good for skiing, too. This party had a day in the sun near Muir.
--Good firm snow on Observation Rock, but no ice. Check out this trip report.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
-- Some campgrounds will close for the summer season. See here for more info.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
-- For the most current updates on Alaska, please see our Dispatch Blog.
--Forecast for Denali.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--If you're heading to Smith Rock anytime soon, and want to climb something less traveled, check out European Vacation. Good route beta can be found here. Snow is still good for skiing, too. This party had a day in the sun near Muir.
--Good firm snow on Observation Rock, but no ice. Check out this trip report.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
Skiing Rainier. Photo Credit Andy Martin.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
-- Some campgrounds will close for the summer season. See here for more info.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
SIERRA:
--Tommy Caldwell climbs the "Toulumne of China". Check it out.
--A recent report for North Peak can be found here.
--Merced Lake, Sunrise, and Vogelsang High Sierra Camps were are closed for the season last week. See this forum for more information.
--Tommy Caldwell climbs the "Toulumne of China". Check it out.
--A recent report for North Peak can be found here.
--Merced Lake, Sunrise, and Vogelsang High Sierra Camps were are closed for the season last week. See this forum for more information.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
-- For the most current updates on Alaska, please see our Dispatch Blog.
--Forecast for Denali.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
Mount Baker Skills and Climb
A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of summiting Mt. Baker with a fun group of Canadians, one of which lives in Surry, BC and has been looking at this peak for many years. He decided that for his birthday he wanted to climb the mountain. So he did. Below are some photos from the weekend.
October and November Climbing Events
--Sept 27 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climber's Liaison Council Meeting. (contact Lisa at lvclc.admin@gmail.com)
-- Sept 30 -- Portland, OR -- Colin Haley Slideshow
-- Oct 2 -- Boone, NC -- Trip Crown Bouldering Comp
-- Oct 2 -- Bellingham, WA -- Extreme Weather NW Washington talk
-- Oct 7-9 -- Seattle, WA -- Mountainfilm Tour
-- Oct 8-10 -- Red River Gorge, KY -- Rocktoberfest 2010
-- Oct 8-10 -- San Luis Obispo, CA -- Pine Mountain Pull Down
-- Oct 10-12 -- Golden, CO -- Craggin Classic
-- Oct 14 -- San Diego, CA -- Allied Climbers Annual Fundraiser
-- Oct 23-24 -- Las Vegas, NV -- 2010 National Climbing Management Summit: This fall the Access Fund will host the 2010 National Climbing Management Summit in partnership with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and US Forest Service in Las Vegas, NV on October 23rd and 24th. The summit will bring land managers and field-level personnel who are involved in recreation policy and climbing management together to discuss best practices for
-- Oct 24-26 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- ClimbSmart
-- Oct 24-26 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Warrior's Way SPORT Camp
-- Oct 29-Nov -- Southwest various locations -- Chris Sharma Slideshow Tour
-- Oct 29-30 -- Red Rock, NV -- Make A Difference Day - Service project at Red Rock Canyon (contact Lisa at lvclc.admin@gmail.com)
-- Oct 30-Nov -- Banff, Canada -- Banff Mountian Film Fest
-- Oct 30-Nov 7 -- Italy -- International Mountain Summit Festival
-- Nov 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit
-- Nov 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Stone Gardens 2010 Seattle Bouldering Challenge
-- Sept 30 -- Portland, OR -- Colin Haley Slideshow
-- Oct 2 -- Boone, NC -- Trip Crown Bouldering Comp
-- Oct 2 -- Bellingham, WA -- Extreme Weather NW Washington talk
-- Oct 7-9 -- Seattle, WA -- Mountainfilm Tour
-- Oct 8-10 -- Red River Gorge, KY -- Rocktoberfest 2010
-- Oct 8-10 -- San Luis Obispo, CA -- Pine Mountain Pull Down
-- Oct 10-12 -- Golden, CO -- Craggin Classic
-- Oct 14 -- San Diego, CA -- Allied Climbers Annual Fundraiser
-- Oct 23-24 -- Las Vegas, NV -- 2010 National Climbing Management Summit: This fall the Access Fund will host the 2010 National Climbing Management Summit in partnership with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and US Forest Service in Las Vegas, NV on October 23rd and 24th. The summit will bring land managers and field-level personnel who are involved in recreation policy and climbing management together to discuss best practices for
-- Oct 24-26 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- ClimbSmart
-- Oct 24-26 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Warrior's Way SPORT Camp
-- Oct 29-Nov -- Southwest various locations -- Chris Sharma Slideshow Tour
-- Oct 29-30 -- Red Rock, NV -- Make A Difference Day - Service project at Red Rock Canyon (contact Lisa at lvclc.admin@gmail.com)
-- Oct 30-Nov -- Banff, Canada -- Banff Mountian Film Fest
-- Oct 30-Nov 7 -- Italy -- International Mountain Summit Festival
-- Nov 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit
-- Nov 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Stone Gardens 2010 Seattle Bouldering Challenge
Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!
Our resident Chilean, expert skier, AIARE Avalanche Level 1 and Level 2 instructor, and Equipment Shop Manager is feeling a bit under the weather right now. However while he is at home resting, people are in the mountains of his home country skiing some beautiful lines. I figured that we could try and cheer him up a little bit by giving him a little piece of home, and sharing with you all this great ski video. Additionally, I can tell you the background music in this video is authentic, seeing as I spent 18 days on Denali with Richard this year and was treated to the wonderful Chilean music he brought along.
Black Diamond athlete Zack Giffin skiing in Chile from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
Back in the day, rock climbing and mountaineering were certainly "fringe sports," however they have entered the mainstream these days. It seems that once a sport is introduced, it is only a matter of time before people start to accept it and we see it regularly in the media. However, when things come along like "para-skiing," it is a lot easier to understand why people would say, "those crazy kids!" Needless to say, with alpinism, it was only a matter a time before people started guiding it. Call me pessimistic, but I don't see anyone guiding in the "para-ski" realm any time soon. Regardless, it is pretty darn impressive.
--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator
Black Diamond athlete Zack Giffin skiing in Chile from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
Back in the day, rock climbing and mountaineering were certainly "fringe sports," however they have entered the mainstream these days. It seems that once a sport is introduced, it is only a matter of time before people start to accept it and we see it regularly in the media. However, when things come along like "para-skiing," it is a lot easier to understand why people would say, "those crazy kids!" Needless to say, with alpinism, it was only a matter a time before people started guiding it. Call me pessimistic, but I don't see anyone guiding in the "para-ski" realm any time soon. Regardless, it is pretty darn impressive.
--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator
Snowy Again
Storms have dropped fresh snow on the mountain over the past few days. Be sure to check the forecast before you leave home and prepare accordingly. The skiing is improving!
Check out new conditions updates on the Disappointment Clever and Muir Snowfield.
Check out new conditions updates on the Disappointment Clever and Muir Snowfield.
North Cascades Backpacking Trip
This summer the American Alpine Institute was proud to run a backpacking trip deep in the North Cascades. The small group had phenomenal weather and found spectacular views throughout the trip.
AAI Backpacking Guide Jeff Ries ran this trip deep into the mountains and returned with a lot of great photos. Following is a photo essay from the trip:
When the Backpackers arrived with this view they began to serenade
Mt. Challenger with songs from the Sound of Music
An evening fire provides an opportunity to learn about living in
all the different countries represented by those on the trip
An cable car is used to get across the Chilliwack river by backpackers in the North Cascades National park
l
Challenger Glacier is a great backdrop for a hike up to Tapto Lakes
The enchanted Tapto Lakes area on a high alpine shelf was the highlight of this year's
backpacking trip deep in the North Cascades
The Challenger Glacier makes for a great backdrop when backpacking up to the Taptoe Lakes
Crossing clear mountain streams deep in the North Cascades National park
(Brush Creek near Whatcom Pass)
Newlyweds Marlies and Oscar from the Netherlands take a break
and admire Ruth Mountain
AAI Backpacking Guide Jeff Ries ran this trip deep into the mountains and returned with a lot of great photos. Following is a photo essay from the trip:
When the Backpackers arrived with this view they began to serenadeMt. Challenger with songs from the Sound of Music
An evening fire provides an opportunity to learn about living inall the different countries represented by those on the trip
An cable car is used to get across the Chilliwack river by backpackers in the North Cascades National park
l
Challenger Glacier is a great backdrop for a hike up to Tapto Lakes
The enchanted Tapto Lakes area on a high alpine shelf was the highlight of this year'sbackpacking trip deep in the North Cascades
The Challenger Glacier makes for a great backdrop when backpacking up to the Taptoe Lakes
Crossing clear mountain streams deep in the North Cascades National park(Brush Creek near Whatcom Pass)
Newlyweds Marlies and Oscar from the Netherlands take a breakand admire Ruth Mountain
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/23/10
Northwest:
Mount Adams
Photo by Jon Hendriks
-- A 60-year-old Oregon man died in a fall during a climb on Mount Adams with his son early this week, an incident that was reported Wednesday after the son was able to contact authorities. Sergent Judd Towell, head of the Search and Rescue operation at the Yakima County Sheriff’s Office, said personnel from several search and rescue units in the region have arrived and began a search on Friday morning to locate and recover the body. To read more, click here.
--Iconic Northwest Climber Fred Beckey, 87, was profiled in Outside Magazine this month. A good chunk of the article was reprinted at cascadeclimbers.com.
--In what is believed to be the first Tyrolean traverse between the North and South Early Winters spires, Wyatt Southworth of Mazama made his way across the chasm, about 400 feet above the ground. To read more, click here.
-- A German adventure guide is feeling the heat after he had to be rescued from British Columbia's backcountry last week -- and unfortunately, not for the first time. A group of seven people trekked north of Harrison Lake to scout locations for a documentary about gold prospectors. The team became stranded in an area dominated by steep cliffs when heavy fog rolled in. "It was not possible to look around and to find the right direction to step down. It was too foggy," team leader Anton Lennartz told CTV News. To read more, click here.
--Two Northwest poachers made headlines when they not only shot a deer out-of-season, but then rolled their truck down an embankment and over it while trying to load the animal. If there is one thing that is clear, it's that these guys were not brain surgeons. To read more, click here.
--Sunnyside Crag, a cliffband that runs through Ross Park, near Pocatello, Idaho, was inundated with rock climbers Saturday, hoping to scale the basalt crags and earn as many points as possible in a competition. A total of 117 participants registered for the 29th Annual Pocatello Pump, hosted by the Outdoor Adventure Center at Idaho State University. To read more, click here.
--For nearly thirty-years the federal government has had a program to help restore the grizzly bear population in places like Idaho, Montana, Washington and Wyoming. It has made a difference in places like Yellowstone National Park and in the Continental Divide region of Montana, but unfortunately, not in the North Cascades, one of six designated recovery zones. Instead, this area has been locked in a standstill as political winds shift over the preservation of large predators. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--Killing a bear in Mammoth Lakes is no small matter. The political will of the community leans strongly toward preservation of wildlife. Police Chief Dan Watson said that's what Police Sergeant Karen Smart had in mind when she took the responsibility to shoot and kill the problem bear in the Lakes Basin last week. To read more, click here.
--Bernd Zeugswetter, Hjordis Rickert and Greg Corliss made the first ascent of a new route in the Needles in the Sierra in late August. The Third Needle, where their new ten-pitch climb works its way up cracks, corners, and aretes, can be found just south of Mount Whitney. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Paul Gagner and Jeremy Asaksen recently completed a new route on the east face of the Titan in the Fisher Towers. Their line was developed over six months of repeated trips to the peak and clocks in at 5.9, A3. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
Himalaya
--Protest space is scarce outside the United Nations General Assembly in New York, but that didn't keep a group of Sherpas -- all of whom had multiple trips to Everest under their belts -- from protesting and holding signs that read, "Save the Himalayas." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--The Intermountain West is renowned for the beauty of its towering mountains and high deserts, but according to new research from an investigator with the University of Utah Brain Institute the region's lofty altitudes significantly influence a deadly problem: the high prevalence of suicides in this part of the country. To read more, click here.
--The Sichuan Mountaineering Association (SMA) in cooperation with UIAA Member Federation, the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA), has made public its new registration fees effective from January 1, 2011. They are applicable for all foreign climbers. According to Lindsay Griffin of the British Mountaineering Council, the fees represent an increase of up to six times the current charges, "making it financially much harder for small parties to attempt virgin peaks" in Sichuan. To read more, click here.
Mount AdamsPhoto by Jon Hendriks
-- A 60-year-old Oregon man died in a fall during a climb on Mount Adams with his son early this week, an incident that was reported Wednesday after the son was able to contact authorities. Sergent Judd Towell, head of the Search and Rescue operation at the Yakima County Sheriff’s Office, said personnel from several search and rescue units in the region have arrived and began a search on Friday morning to locate and recover the body. To read more, click here.
--Iconic Northwest Climber Fred Beckey, 87, was profiled in Outside Magazine this month. A good chunk of the article was reprinted at cascadeclimbers.com.
--In what is believed to be the first Tyrolean traverse between the North and South Early Winters spires, Wyatt Southworth of Mazama made his way across the chasm, about 400 feet above the ground. To read more, click here.
-- A German adventure guide is feeling the heat after he had to be rescued from British Columbia's backcountry last week -- and unfortunately, not for the first time. A group of seven people trekked north of Harrison Lake to scout locations for a documentary about gold prospectors. The team became stranded in an area dominated by steep cliffs when heavy fog rolled in. "It was not possible to look around and to find the right direction to step down. It was too foggy," team leader Anton Lennartz told CTV News. To read more, click here.
--Two Northwest poachers made headlines when they not only shot a deer out-of-season, but then rolled their truck down an embankment and over it while trying to load the animal. If there is one thing that is clear, it's that these guys were not brain surgeons. To read more, click here.
--Sunnyside Crag, a cliffband that runs through Ross Park, near Pocatello, Idaho, was inundated with rock climbers Saturday, hoping to scale the basalt crags and earn as many points as possible in a competition. A total of 117 participants registered for the 29th Annual Pocatello Pump, hosted by the Outdoor Adventure Center at Idaho State University. To read more, click here.
--For nearly thirty-years the federal government has had a program to help restore the grizzly bear population in places like Idaho, Montana, Washington and Wyoming. It has made a difference in places like Yellowstone National Park and in the Continental Divide region of Montana, but unfortunately, not in the North Cascades, one of six designated recovery zones. Instead, this area has been locked in a standstill as political winds shift over the preservation of large predators. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--Killing a bear in Mammoth Lakes is no small matter. The political will of the community leans strongly toward preservation of wildlife. Police Chief Dan Watson said that's what Police Sergeant Karen Smart had in mind when she took the responsibility to shoot and kill the problem bear in the Lakes Basin last week. To read more, click here.
--Bernd Zeugswetter, Hjordis Rickert and Greg Corliss made the first ascent of a new route in the Needles in the Sierra in late August. The Third Needle, where their new ten-pitch climb works its way up cracks, corners, and aretes, can be found just south of Mount Whitney. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Paul Gagner and Jeremy Asaksen recently completed a new route on the east face of the Titan in the Fisher Towers. Their line was developed over six months of repeated trips to the peak and clocks in at 5.9, A3. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
Himalaya
--Protest space is scarce outside the United Nations General Assembly in New York, but that didn't keep a group of Sherpas -- all of whom had multiple trips to Everest under their belts -- from protesting and holding signs that read, "Save the Himalayas." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--The Intermountain West is renowned for the beauty of its towering mountains and high deserts, but according to new research from an investigator with the University of Utah Brain Institute the region's lofty altitudes significantly influence a deadly problem: the high prevalence of suicides in this part of the country. To read more, click here.
--The Sichuan Mountaineering Association (SMA) in cooperation with UIAA Member Federation, the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA), has made public its new registration fees effective from January 1, 2011. They are applicable for all foreign climbers. According to Lindsay Griffin of the British Mountaineering Council, the fees represent an increase of up to six times the current charges, "making it financially much harder for small parties to attempt virgin peaks" in Sichuan. To read more, click here.
Conditions Report - September 22 2010
NORTHWEST:
Snow Creek Wall viewed from the hike in. Hyperspace runs up the left side of the shield. Photo credit Jaime Bohle.
--Snow Creek Wall never gets old, does it? Especially when the alpine conditions are not so great. Check out these Outerspace and Hyperspace (pitch by pitch beta!) trip reports.
Leading The Psychopath pitch (5.11) Beautiful finger crack to face climbing finish. Photo credit Jaime Bohle.
--Good camping/approach/decent notes for Mt. Adams can be found here. Bottom line: Bailed summit attempt due to weather.
--A quick ski report for Muir can be found here. Someone found sunshine to their pleasant surprise.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
-- Some campgrounds will close for the summer season. See here for more info.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
-- For the most current updates on Alaska, please see our Dispatch Blog.
--Forecast for Denali.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
Snow Creek Wall viewed from the hike in. Hyperspace runs up the left side of the shield. Photo credit Jaime Bohle.
Leading The Psychopath pitch (5.11) Beautiful finger crack to face climbing finish. Photo credit Jaime Bohle.--Good camping/approach/decent notes for Mt. Adams can be found here. Bottom line: Bailed summit attempt due to weather.
--A quick ski report for Muir can be found here. Someone found sunshine to their pleasant surprise.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
-- Some campgrounds will close for the summer season. See here for more info.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
SIERRA:
--Sunny in the Sierras, of course. Check out this recent report for the Palisades area, and a view videos here. Plenty of pictures. However, looks like Fall is starting to show itself in other places.
-- 3 full pitches of ice on North Peak Couloir. Check out this trip report.
--Sunny in the Sierras, of course. Check out this recent report for the Palisades area, and a view videos here. Plenty of pictures. However, looks like Fall is starting to show itself in other places.
-- 3 full pitches of ice on North Peak Couloir. Check out this trip report.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
-- For the most current updates on Alaska, please see our Dispatch Blog.
--Forecast for Denali.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
Denali Park Road Open to Mile 30 through September
The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:
The busy summer season has ended at Denali National Park and Preserve, and visitors can now drive private vehicles on the Denali Park Road as far as the Teklanika River Rest Area at Mile 30, weather permitting. Visitors are advised to call ahead for weather and road information, as conditions can change rapidly at this time of the year. Vault toilets will be available at the Mountain Vista Trailhead (Mile 12), Savage River parking area (Mile 15) and the Teklanika River Rest Area through September. Other park facilities west of headquarters, such as campgrounds and restrooms, are closed for the season.
Beginning on Friday, October 1, the park road will be closed to travel beyond Mile 5 in order to replace a large culvert at Mile 7 that is failing. During the construction period, which is expected to take up to four weeks, that section of road will be impassable by vehicle. The road will be open to pedestrians and bicyclists, but they will need to walk around the construction area and stay alert for trucks and other heavy equipment.
The headquarters flagpole parking lot is closed to all parking until late November, as the site will be under construction as part of the kennels road re-alignment project.
On Wednesday, September 22 the Murie Science and Learning Center (MSLC) will begin functioning as the winter visitor center. The MSLC will be open daily from 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. to provide park information and backcountry permits.
The Bear Loop of the Riley Creek Campground at Mile 0.2 remains open for camping, but the water has been turned off for the season. A vault toilet is provided for campers and water can be obtained at the Murie Science and Learning Center. Gas, food service and lodging are available in the communities of Healy and Cantwell.
Denali National Park and Preserve collects an entrance fee year-round. The entrance fee of $10 per person or $20 per vehicle is good for seven days. The majority of the money collected remains in the park to be used for projects to improve visitor services and facilities. Interagency Federal Recreation Passes such as the Annual, Senior, and Access Pass, and the Denali Annual Pass are also valid for entry into the park. Visitors can pay entrance fees at the Murie Science and Learning Center.
Information is available on the park website at www.nps.gov/dena or by calling (907) 683-2294 from 8:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. daily.
Haute Route Trekking
I hadn't heard of the Haute Route before I started working here. It turns out it is one of the most beautiful hikes (or it can be done as a ski tour) in Europe. It's an easy life going from hut-to-hut with only a daypack as you make the 11-day journey near Chamonix, France, to Zermatt, Switzerland.
Here's some proof. Check out these photos from AAI guide Jeff Ries. He shot these earlier this summer on a recent trip:
AAI trekkers enjoy amazing views of the Lesser Combin on day 5 of this Julys Swiss trek.
A great view of the impressive Moiry icefall greets the Swiss.
The Matterhorn welcomes trekkers at the end of the trip in Zermatt.
Here's some proof. Check out these photos from AAI guide Jeff Ries. He shot these earlier this summer on a recent trip:
AAI trekkers enjoy amazing views of the Lesser Combin on day 5 of this Julys Swiss trek.
A great view of the impressive Moiry icefall greets the Swiss.
The Matterhorn welcomes trekkers at the end of the trip in Zermatt.-Dyan Padagas, Program Coordinator
Angle and Force in an Anchor
You've heard before, and I'll say it again. The lower the angle between the pieces in an anchor, the better equalized the anchor will be.
What does this actually mean?
Well, first it means that the American Death Triangle is really bad...
And second it means that...
If an anchor is composed of two pieces, and one piece is directly above the other piece, and you are using a pre-equalized knot on a cordellete clipped to the pieces, then you are likely to be close to completely equalized at your master-point. The photo below shows a three piece anchor with low angles between the pieces. The low angles make this a very good anchor. However, due to the fact that the pieces are not completely in line with one another, the anchor cannot be truly equalized.
A Very Good Pre-Equalized Anchor that is Not Truly Equalized
Guides believe that this is an acceptable anchor.
Photo from Splitter Climbing Gear
Some may find minor concerns with the different lengths of cord in the preceding picture. Most guides are not concerned about this.
When the angle on a two-point anchor increases, so too does the load on each piece. The theory is that when there is no or a very low angle -- under 20 degrees -- the pieces are close to equalized. When the angle increases to 40 degrees, then 54% of the load is on each piece. As the angle increases to 80 degrees, then 70% of the load is on each piece. And when the angle increases to 120 degrees, then 100% of the load is on each piece.
The following chart from the Technical Manual for Mountain Guides from the AMGA, demonstrates this with proposed weight of 1000 pounds.
The video savvy Canadian guide, Mike Barter, put together a great video on this subject for youtube.com. He uses a number of visual demonstrations throughout the video to show how weight affects an anchor as the angle increases. Check out the video below:
--Jason D. Martin
NOTE:
This is the second time we've posted this blog. And after I posted it the first time a couple of years ago an extremely valid comment was made. I thought that it would be prudent to post the comment as well as my response:
What does this actually mean?
Well, first it means that the American Death Triangle is really bad...
And second it means that...
If an anchor is composed of two pieces, and one piece is directly above the other piece, and you are using a pre-equalized knot on a cordellete clipped to the pieces, then you are likely to be close to completely equalized at your master-point. The photo below shows a three piece anchor with low angles between the pieces. The low angles make this a very good anchor. However, due to the fact that the pieces are not completely in line with one another, the anchor cannot be truly equalized.
A Very Good Pre-Equalized Anchor that is Not Truly EqualizedGuides believe that this is an acceptable anchor.
Photo from Splitter Climbing Gear
When the angle on a two-point anchor increases, so too does the load on each piece. The theory is that when there is no or a very low angle -- under 20 degrees -- the pieces are close to equalized. When the angle increases to 40 degrees, then 54% of the load is on each piece. As the angle increases to 80 degrees, then 70% of the load is on each piece. And when the angle increases to 120 degrees, then 100% of the load is on each piece.
The following chart from the Technical Manual for Mountain Guides from the AMGA, demonstrates this with proposed weight of 1000 pounds.
The video savvy Canadian guide, Mike Barter, put together a great video on this subject for youtube.com. He uses a number of visual demonstrations throughout the video to show how weight affects an anchor as the angle increases. Check out the video below:
--Jason D. Martin
NOTE:
This is the second time we've posted this blog. And after I posted it the first time a couple of years ago an extremely valid comment was made. I thought that it would be prudent to post the comment as well as my response:
I hate to flame people trying to put good information out for the public, but I thought his demonstration was pretty silly. First off(although it really wasn't important for the demonstration) he had the knot of the cordelette directly on the carabiner of one of his "anchors". You think that an IFMGA guide wouldn't do this even in a demonstration. His demonstration really didn't show the increase in force on the anchor, but the change in the direction of pull. I think he could of easily done this by attaching a simple fish scale to each anchor.
I also thought about the knot on the carabiner when I found this video. The knot on the carabiner does weaken the cordellete mildly.
I have seen A LOT of IFMGA guides do this over the years. Indeed, I've seen enough of them do this that I've considered pulling back on the amount of emphasis I've put on keeping the knot out of the carabiner in the classes that I teach.
In addition to this, lets remember what this blog is about. It's about how angle impacts individual pieces...and I think that the video does a great job of demonstrating this...
Jason
Confidence is Key
I had grand plans for that day, more accurately, delusions of grandeur. “Fearless Leader” and I headed off to Foster Falls, Chattanooga's sport climbing hub, but I had more than just a few quick draws in my pack. Influenced by John Sherman's article “Its Big, Its Bad, Its Retro-Trad”, I had lugged my entire rack with me. I was going to show sport climbing who was boss, or something like that. I
September and October Climbing Events
Coffee will be served most Saturdays and Sundays during peak climbing season in Joshua Tree, CA. -- Sept 19-20 -- Bidsboro, PA -- 3rd Annual Clean and Climb
-- Sept 19 -- Index, WA -- WCC Index Purchase Celebration
-- Sept 25 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Adopt-a-Crag American Fork
-- Sept 25 -- Indian Creek, UT -- SushiFest
-- Sept 25 -- Devil's Tower, WY - Adopt a Crag
-- Sept 25 -- Everywhere -- National Public Lands Day
-- Sept 30 -- Portland, OR -- Colin Haley Slideshow
-- Oct 2 -- Boone, NC -- Trip Crown Bouldering Comp
-- Oct 2 -- Bellingham, WA -- Extreme Weather NW Washington talk
-- Oct 7-9 -- Seattle, WA -- Mountainfilm Tour
-- Oct 8-10 -- Red River Gorge, KY -- Rocktoberfest 2010
-- Oct 8-10 -- San Luis Obispo, CA -- Pine Mountain Pull Down
-- Oct 10-12 -- Golden, CO -- Craggin Classic
-- Oct 14 -- San Diego, CA -- Allied Climbers Annual Fundraiser
-- Oct 23-24 -- Las Vegas, NV -- 2010 National Climbing Management Summit: This fall the Access Fund will host the 2010 National Climbing Management Summit in partnership with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and US Forest Service in Las Vegas, NV on October 23rd and 24th. The summit will bring land managers and field-level personnel who are involved in recreation policy and climbing management together to discuss best practices for climbing management and policy. Topics will include climbing management challenges such as cultural and historic resources, fixed anchor management, protected species closures, climbing in wilderness, trails and staging area impacts, and how land managers can better work with local climbing organizations. For more information contact Jason Keith at Jason@accessfund.org.
--Oct 24-26 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- ClimbSmart
--Oct 24-26 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Warrior's Way SPORT Camp
--Oct 29-Nov -- Southwest various locations -- Chris Sharma Slideshow Tour
--Oct 30-Nov -- Banff, Canada -- Banff Mountian Film Fest
--Oct 30-Nov 7 -- Italy -- International Mountain Summit Festival
Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!
By the time you read this, a man with Cerebral Palsy may have just finished climbing El Capitan in Yosemite. Steve Wampler is climbing El Capitan in an effort to raise money for his foundation which provides wilderness camps for disabled children free of charge. It's an extremely impressive endeavor, and I wish him the best of luck! Here is a a video describing what he is trying to do with the climb, and interview with some of the kids it will benefit
I figure I'm just going to dedicate this Weekend Warrior solely to Steve. This next one sums up the first few days of him on the wall. The last 30 seconds is rather touching. If you feel so inclined, please click here to support Steve's cause.
I figure I'm just going to dedicate this Weekend Warrior solely to Steve. This next one sums up the first few days of him on the wall. The last 30 seconds is rather touching. If you feel so inclined, please click here to support Steve's cause.
Film Review: The Wildest Dream
In 1924, George Mallory and Sandy Irvine made the first ascent of Mount Everest...
Or maybe they didn't...
It's hard to tell whether they made it or not. The pair was last seen alive 800 feet below the summit. Seventy-five years later, Mallory's body was discovered by mountaineer Conrad Anker on an expedition designed to find out what actually happened on the mountain in 1924.
Since that fateful day, the day that took the lives of Mallory and Irvine, whether or not the pair reached the summit of the tallest mountain in the world before their demise is one of the most hotly debated subjects in mountaineering history. There are many details that make one believe that perhaps they did summit. For example, Mallory carried a picture of his beloved wife Ruth which he said he would leave on top of the mountain when he summited. The picture was not found on his body, which could mean that it was left on the summit. But there are also details that make one believe that they might not have summited. For example the Second Step, a named feature on the mountain which now has a ladder on it, would require difficult rock climbing at altitude, something that might not have been possible in the twenties.
The new IMAX documentary film, The Wildest Dream, delves deeply into the mystery surrounding the loss of Mallory and Irvine by chronicling the lives of both men as well as the life of modern day mountaineer, Conrad Anker. Anker returns to the mountain with climbing prodigy Leo Houlding, to continue to develop his understanding of the 1924 expedition and to try to surmount the major difficulty that some historians believe may have turned the pair around, the rock climbing required on Second Step.
The Wildest Dream is a fantastic visual journey chocked full of dramatic mountain images and dramatic mountain men. Anker and Mallory are linked through time by a mountain, by a route, and by their commitment to their families. Indeed, the most pertinent moment of the film is when Anker compares his feelings to those that Mallory expressed in his letters. When Mallory was at home with his wife and his family, he was always dreaming of the mountains. When Mallory was in the mountains, he was always dreaming of his wife and family. This is something that most of us in the mountain community can relate to.
The use of IMAX for this film was wise. However, it can make it difficult for those who do not have IMAX screens nearby to see this film before it comes to DVD. The movie's artistic exploration through imagery is far more decisive and more dramatic than the 1998 IMAX film, Everest about the 1996 Mount Everest tragedy. In part this is because the filmmakers really commit to the format. If they didn't have the footage of a given spot on the mountain, they used high-end computer models, which looked incredibly realistic.
The one downside of the film is that it takes a firm stand on why Mallory chose Irvine as his climbing partner, without presenting the fact that historians see this choice as controversial. In part this is because a fit, acclimitized and experienced climber named Noel Odell was close at hand high on the mountain. Some believe that Mallory may have chosen Irvine as his partner because he was sexually attracted to the younger man. Mallory went through a well-documented period where he flirted with homosexuality. Others believe that he may have done this because he was attracted to the younger man's youth and saw himself in the man. But in the film, they tell us that without question, Mallory chose Irvine to be his companion because of his knowledge of the oxygen apparatus that the men carried. It would have been nice if they had at least alluded to the fact that this choice was considered controversial in such a documentary.
Artistically the use of Mallory and Irvine contrasted with Anker and Houlding works extremely well. As such, The Wildest Dream becomes a film about expeditions in the twenties and expeditions now. It becomes a film about men in the early nineteen-hundreds and men now. It becomes a film about the women who fell in love with these men. And finally it becomes a film about a mountain that has obsessed climbers for nearly a hundred years.
--Jason D. Martin
Or maybe they didn't...
It's hard to tell whether they made it or not. The pair was last seen alive 800 feet below the summit. Seventy-five years later, Mallory's body was discovered by mountaineer Conrad Anker on an expedition designed to find out what actually happened on the mountain in 1924.
Since that fateful day, the day that took the lives of Mallory and Irvine, whether or not the pair reached the summit of the tallest mountain in the world before their demise is one of the most hotly debated subjects in mountaineering history. There are many details that make one believe that perhaps they did summit. For example, Mallory carried a picture of his beloved wife Ruth which he said he would leave on top of the mountain when he summited. The picture was not found on his body, which could mean that it was left on the summit. But there are also details that make one believe that they might not have summited. For example the Second Step, a named feature on the mountain which now has a ladder on it, would require difficult rock climbing at altitude, something that might not have been possible in the twenties.
The new IMAX documentary film, The Wildest Dream, delves deeply into the mystery surrounding the loss of Mallory and Irvine by chronicling the lives of both men as well as the life of modern day mountaineer, Conrad Anker. Anker returns to the mountain with climbing prodigy Leo Houlding, to continue to develop his understanding of the 1924 expedition and to try to surmount the major difficulty that some historians believe may have turned the pair around, the rock climbing required on Second Step.
The Wildest Dream is a fantastic visual journey chocked full of dramatic mountain images and dramatic mountain men. Anker and Mallory are linked through time by a mountain, by a route, and by their commitment to their families. Indeed, the most pertinent moment of the film is when Anker compares his feelings to those that Mallory expressed in his letters. When Mallory was at home with his wife and his family, he was always dreaming of the mountains. When Mallory was in the mountains, he was always dreaming of his wife and family. This is something that most of us in the mountain community can relate to.
The use of IMAX for this film was wise. However, it can make it difficult for those who do not have IMAX screens nearby to see this film before it comes to DVD. The movie's artistic exploration through imagery is far more decisive and more dramatic than the 1998 IMAX film, Everest about the 1996 Mount Everest tragedy. In part this is because the filmmakers really commit to the format. If they didn't have the footage of a given spot on the mountain, they used high-end computer models, which looked incredibly realistic.
The one downside of the film is that it takes a firm stand on why Mallory chose Irvine as his climbing partner, without presenting the fact that historians see this choice as controversial. In part this is because a fit, acclimitized and experienced climber named Noel Odell was close at hand high on the mountain. Some believe that Mallory may have chosen Irvine as his partner because he was sexually attracted to the younger man. Mallory went through a well-documented period where he flirted with homosexuality. Others believe that he may have done this because he was attracted to the younger man's youth and saw himself in the man. But in the film, they tell us that without question, Mallory chose Irvine to be his companion because of his knowledge of the oxygen apparatus that the men carried. It would have been nice if they had at least alluded to the fact that this choice was considered controversial in such a documentary.
Artistically the use of Mallory and Irvine contrasted with Anker and Houlding works extremely well. As such, The Wildest Dream becomes a film about expeditions in the twenties and expeditions now. It becomes a film about men in the early nineteen-hundreds and men now. It becomes a film about the women who fell in love with these men. And finally it becomes a film about a mountain that has obsessed climbers for nearly a hundred years.
--Jason D. Martin
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/16/10
Northwest:
--The climbing community is currently responding to a National Park Service proposal to increase the cost of a permit to climb Mount Rainier by two-thirds and for Denali by 250 percent. The Tacoma News Tribune reports that the Rainier park Superintendent plans to propose to the National Park Service that the fee for an annual Rainier climbing pass be increased from $30 to as much as $50. The increase is intended for the training of climbing rangers and for other expenses. To read more, click here
--A black bear in Whistler, British Columbia, was so intent on getting at a few tomatoes growing in a window box that he scaled a three-story condo building to get at them. The bear made the climb Thursday morning as an incredulous resident of the condominium complex rushed to get his video camera. The bear used everything he had, claws and teeth, working his way up the corner of the building, to get at the small crop of tomatoes. To read more, click here.
--In response to the record floods of 1995, 2003 and 2006, the National Park Service has developed the Draft Stehekin River Corridor Implementation Plan Environmental Impact Statement to address, in a comprehensive way, the steps needed to continue to implement the 1995 Lake Chelan National Recreation Area General Management Plan. The goals in creating this plan are to provide high-quality recreational experiences, protect natural and cultural resources, support the private community of Stehekin, and establish sustainable administrative facilities. To read the plan and to make comments on it, please click here.
--An Ellensburg man who was descending from Mount Stuart on Saturday broke his ankle and spent the night with his party while they waited to be evacuated. Jason M. Paschen, 28, was discharged after treatment in Wenatchee. Paschen fell and broke his ankle on his descent Saturday, but his partners could not call for help because there was no cell service. To read more, click here.
--After months of preparation, training and fundraising, a Ladner, British Columbia woman achieved two lofty goals. Robyn Thomson has returned from Africa where she made an ascent of Mount Kilimanjaro. She set out to climb the mountain earlier this year in an effort to raise both money and awareness, for the Delta Hospice Society. Her goal was to reach the top of the mountain and to raise $10,000 for hospice. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--The U.S. Forest Service has announced that an off duty ranger recently discovered the bones of a man that has been missing in Yosemite National Park for seven years. Fred Claassen disappeared in 2003 when he went on a twenty-mile hike in the park. To read more, click here.
--A California man with cerebral palsy is trying to be the first person with his condition to climb Yosemite's El Capitan. Steven Wampler has been training for over a year to attempt the climb. Wampler will climb the 2,000 foot face in a wheelchair he helped create for the climb. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Zion National Park Superintendent Jock Whitworth has announced the start of a project to rehabilitate campsites and improve utilities in the tent only Loops C and D in Watchman Campground. The project will consist of reconstruction and delineation of 69 campsites with new site furnishings, resurfacing the road system, re-vegetation, installing new irrigation lines, and water and sewer line improvements. Loop C is now closed and Loop D will be closed effective October 12, 2010. The two camping loops will be closed until the project is completed in early April 2011. South Campground, which usually closes at the end of October, will remain open through Thanksgiving weekend to make up for the loss of tent sites in the Watchman Campground this fall. Loop A of Watchman Campground will stay open through the winter months and is open to both tents and recreational vehicles. To read more, click here.
--Rangers were dispatched to the Furnace Creek Ranch Resort in Death Valley just after 3 a.m. on September 9th to investigate a report of shots fired. The ranch is a large resort complex managed by Xanterra Corporation and is a private inholding within the park. Rangers regularly respond to the full range of emergencies there based on an agreement with Xanterra Resorts and the Inyo County Sheriff’s Office. Four rangers and a resident California Highway Patrol (CHP) officer responded and met a Xanterra security guard at the scene. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
Christian Stangl's Purported Self Portrait on the Summit
Stangl was nearly 3000 feet below the true summit when the photo was taken.
--An Austrian mountain climber says he lied when he made a claim last month to have scaled the world's second highest summit. Climber Christian Stangl now says he did not reach the summit of K2, and he says the picture used to prove the climb was in fact taken 3,000 feet below the summit of the Himalayan peak. The 44-year-old Stangl was attempting to become the first person to climb the two highest peaks on each continent. To read more, click here and here.
--Deep in the Karakoram, an eighteen year-old Pakistani girl summited the previously unclimbed Chashkin Sar (20,997'). Samina Khayal made the ascent with her brother Mirza Ali, Tafat Shah, Yahya Baig, Salamat Khan, Arshad Karim and with Romanian filmmaker Stelian Pavalache. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--Sarah Shourd, one of three jailed US hikers, has been freed after more than a year in an Iranian prison. Shourd was released Tuesday. The thirty-two year old woman said that she would continue t0 campaign for the release of the other two hikers. To read more, click here.
--Outside Magazine has posted an interesting blog on the issue of charging for rescue. They write: "After the Colorado Search and Rescue Board (CSARB) successfully helped convince one mountain town to stop charging for rescues, municipal public safety agencies seem to be sending more bills. According to the New York Times last week, if you need help from police or fire, don't be surprised to get a bill, the so-called "crash tax." Eight states can lawfully bill for search and rescue services. Remember the teenager in New Hampshire's White Mountains who was sent a $25,000 tab? The Mountain Rescue Association and National Association for Search and Rescue are adamantly against cost recovery in this manner. The reason: it promotes a delay in a call for help." To read more, click here.
--Over the summer Nicolas and Olivier Favresse as well as Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto completed a series of new routes on the West Coast of Greenland. Many of the lines were big wall ascents and were made from a floating base camp, a thirty-foot sailboat that they used to access the area. To read more, click here.
--British Climbers Tom Chamberlain and Tony Barton have made a significant first ascent on Huaguruncho (5723m), Cordillera Oriental, Peru. Their new line, Llama Karma (1000m ED/ 90·/V, 24 pitches) was climbed over four days and tackles the large south west face of Huaguruncho. Chamberlain and Barton had tried a similar line back in 2008, accompanied by Olly Metherell, but had not reached the top. On re-acquaintance this year the pair (this time without Metherell) found that different snow conditions forced them to take an alternative line. To read more, click here.
--President Obama recently declared September, 2010 as National Wilderness Month, encouraging all Americans to visit and enjoy our wilderness areas, to learn about their vast history, and to aid in the protection of our precious national treasures. Obama has made significant effort while in office to protect America's wilderness. Last year, he signed the Omnibus Public Lands Management Act, designating more than two million acres of wilderness for protection across the United States. To read more, click here.
--Nineteen year-old Brenna Fisch is in critical condition after surgery on her skull following an unroped climbing fall outside of Boulder. The University of Colorado sophomore fell two stories from a hike on Dome Rock in Boulder Canyon. To read more, click here.
--The Aron Ralston story has finally hit the big screen. We all know the canyoneer who cut off his arm story by now, but it appears that the sequence on film is quite traumatic. Three people fainted and one person suffered a seizure when 127 Hours was screened at the Toronto Film Festival this week. To read more, click here.
--In early August more than one thousand mountaineers and mountain enthusiasts attended the opening of the Slovenian Alpine Museum in Mojstrana, Slovenia. The multitude of guests who attended underlined just how strong the demand was for an institution such as this in the Slovenian Alps. To read more, click here.
--After months of preparation, training and fundraising, a local woman conquered two lofty goals. Ladner's Robyn Thomson has returned from Africa where she climbed Mount Kilimanjaro. She set out to tackle the mountain earlier this year in an effort to raise money, and awareness, for the Delta Hospice Society. Her goal was to reach the summit and raise $10,000 for hospice. To read more, click here.
--The climbing community is currently responding to a National Park Service proposal to increase the cost of a permit to climb Mount Rainier by two-thirds and for Denali by 250 percent. The Tacoma News Tribune reports that the Rainier park Superintendent plans to propose to the National Park Service that the fee for an annual Rainier climbing pass be increased from $30 to as much as $50. The increase is intended for the training of climbing rangers and for other expenses. To read more, click here
--A black bear in Whistler, British Columbia, was so intent on getting at a few tomatoes growing in a window box that he scaled a three-story condo building to get at them. The bear made the climb Thursday morning as an incredulous resident of the condominium complex rushed to get his video camera. The bear used everything he had, claws and teeth, working his way up the corner of the building, to get at the small crop of tomatoes. To read more, click here.
--In response to the record floods of 1995, 2003 and 2006, the National Park Service has developed the Draft Stehekin River Corridor Implementation Plan Environmental Impact Statement to address, in a comprehensive way, the steps needed to continue to implement the 1995 Lake Chelan National Recreation Area General Management Plan. The goals in creating this plan are to provide high-quality recreational experiences, protect natural and cultural resources, support the private community of Stehekin, and establish sustainable administrative facilities. To read the plan and to make comments on it, please click here.
--An Ellensburg man who was descending from Mount Stuart on Saturday broke his ankle and spent the night with his party while they waited to be evacuated. Jason M. Paschen, 28, was discharged after treatment in Wenatchee. Paschen fell and broke his ankle on his descent Saturday, but his partners could not call for help because there was no cell service. To read more, click here.
--After months of preparation, training and fundraising, a Ladner, British Columbia woman achieved two lofty goals. Robyn Thomson has returned from Africa where she made an ascent of Mount Kilimanjaro. She set out to climb the mountain earlier this year in an effort to raise both money and awareness, for the Delta Hospice Society. Her goal was to reach the top of the mountain and to raise $10,000 for hospice. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--The U.S. Forest Service has announced that an off duty ranger recently discovered the bones of a man that has been missing in Yosemite National Park for seven years. Fred Claassen disappeared in 2003 when he went on a twenty-mile hike in the park. To read more, click here.
--A California man with cerebral palsy is trying to be the first person with his condition to climb Yosemite's El Capitan. Steven Wampler has been training for over a year to attempt the climb. Wampler will climb the 2,000 foot face in a wheelchair he helped create for the climb. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Zion National Park Superintendent Jock Whitworth has announced the start of a project to rehabilitate campsites and improve utilities in the tent only Loops C and D in Watchman Campground. The project will consist of reconstruction and delineation of 69 campsites with new site furnishings, resurfacing the road system, re-vegetation, installing new irrigation lines, and water and sewer line improvements. Loop C is now closed and Loop D will be closed effective October 12, 2010. The two camping loops will be closed until the project is completed in early April 2011. South Campground, which usually closes at the end of October, will remain open through Thanksgiving weekend to make up for the loss of tent sites in the Watchman Campground this fall. Loop A of Watchman Campground will stay open through the winter months and is open to both tents and recreational vehicles. To read more, click here.
--Rangers were dispatched to the Furnace Creek Ranch Resort in Death Valley just after 3 a.m. on September 9th to investigate a report of shots fired. The ranch is a large resort complex managed by Xanterra Corporation and is a private inholding within the park. Rangers regularly respond to the full range of emergencies there based on an agreement with Xanterra Resorts and the Inyo County Sheriff’s Office. Four rangers and a resident California Highway Patrol (CHP) officer responded and met a Xanterra security guard at the scene. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
Christian Stangl's Purported Self Portrait on the SummitStangl was nearly 3000 feet below the true summit when the photo was taken.
--Deep in the Karakoram, an eighteen year-old Pakistani girl summited the previously unclimbed Chashkin Sar (20,997'). Samina Khayal made the ascent with her brother Mirza Ali, Tafat Shah, Yahya Baig, Salamat Khan, Arshad Karim and with Romanian filmmaker Stelian Pavalache. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--Sarah Shourd, one of three jailed US hikers, has been freed after more than a year in an Iranian prison. Shourd was released Tuesday. The thirty-two year old woman said that she would continue t0 campaign for the release of the other two hikers. To read more, click here.
--Outside Magazine has posted an interesting blog on the issue of charging for rescue. They write: "After the Colorado Search and Rescue Board (CSARB) successfully helped convince one mountain town to stop charging for rescues, municipal public safety agencies seem to be sending more bills. According to the New York Times last week, if you need help from police or fire, don't be surprised to get a bill, the so-called "crash tax." Eight states can lawfully bill for search and rescue services. Remember the teenager in New Hampshire's White Mountains who was sent a $25,000 tab? The Mountain Rescue Association and National Association for Search and Rescue are adamantly against cost recovery in this manner. The reason: it promotes a delay in a call for help." To read more, click here.
--Over the summer Nicolas and Olivier Favresse as well as Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto completed a series of new routes on the West Coast of Greenland. Many of the lines were big wall ascents and were made from a floating base camp, a thirty-foot sailboat that they used to access the area. To read more, click here.
--British Climbers Tom Chamberlain and Tony Barton have made a significant first ascent on Huaguruncho (5723m), Cordillera Oriental, Peru. Their new line, Llama Karma (1000m ED/ 90·/V, 24 pitches) was climbed over four days and tackles the large south west face of Huaguruncho. Chamberlain and Barton had tried a similar line back in 2008, accompanied by Olly Metherell, but had not reached the top. On re-acquaintance this year the pair (this time without Metherell) found that different snow conditions forced them to take an alternative line. To read more, click here.
--President Obama recently declared September, 2010 as National Wilderness Month, encouraging all Americans to visit and enjoy our wilderness areas, to learn about their vast history, and to aid in the protection of our precious national treasures. Obama has made significant effort while in office to protect America's wilderness. Last year, he signed the Omnibus Public Lands Management Act, designating more than two million acres of wilderness for protection across the United States. To read more, click here.
--Nineteen year-old Brenna Fisch is in critical condition after surgery on her skull following an unroped climbing fall outside of Boulder. The University of Colorado sophomore fell two stories from a hike on Dome Rock in Boulder Canyon. To read more, click here.
--The Aron Ralston story has finally hit the big screen. We all know the canyoneer who cut off his arm story by now, but it appears that the sequence on film is quite traumatic. Three people fainted and one person suffered a seizure when 127 Hours was screened at the Toronto Film Festival this week. To read more, click here.
--In early August more than one thousand mountaineers and mountain enthusiasts attended the opening of the Slovenian Alpine Museum in Mojstrana, Slovenia. The multitude of guests who attended underlined just how strong the demand was for an institution such as this in the Slovenian Alps. To read more, click here.
--After months of preparation, training and fundraising, a local woman conquered two lofty goals. Ladner's Robyn Thomson has returned from Africa where she climbed Mount Kilimanjaro. She set out to tackle the mountain earlier this year in an effort to raise money, and awareness, for the Delta Hospice Society. Her goal was to reach the summit and raise $10,000 for hospice. To read more, click here.
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