Over the last decade, the use of anchor acronyms has become quite popular. For awhile, it seemed like everybody had a different acronym for the "ideal" anchor. Following are a few examples of anchor acronyms:
RENE
Rumor has it that this term was initially coined by an east coast guide. As I am unable to independently verify the truth of this, I'm going to keep his name out of this blog. In any case, the preceding acronym stands for:
R - Redundant
E - Equalized
N - No
E - Extention
"Redundant" simply means that there is more than one element involved in every aspect of the system. "Equalized" means that the all the weight is evenly distributed. "No Extention" means that if one piece fails, the anchor will not shockload other parts of the system.
John Long's How to Rock Climb series added an element to the acronym. In his books he began to use SRENE. The RENE part remained the same, but he added the "S". This stood for "secure" or "strong." In other words, are all the pieces strong and secure?
The 2008 AMGA Single Pitch Instructor manual added another letter to the acronym. In this recent publication they made the acronym, SERENE. The new "E" stood for "effective;" as in, was the construction of this anchor quick? Was it well-placed? Does it do the job without too much equipment or fuss?
Popular books like Freedom of the Hills, Rock Climbing: Mastering the Basic Skills, and Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher have gone a completely different route. Instead of SERENE, they use ERNEST.
E - Equalized
R - Redundant
N - No
E - Extention
S - Secure/Solid
T - Timely
The only real addition to this particular acronym is the "T" for "timely" which could well equate to the "E" for "effective."
When all is said and done, it doesn't really matter which acronym you prefer. It doesn't matter as long as your anchors are RENE, SRENE, SERENE and ERNEST...
--Jason D. Martin
Climbing and Oudoor News from Here and Abroad - 12/30/10
Northwest:
--Four snowshoers were lost on Sunday after losing the main trail in the Gold Creek Snow Park. They contacted 911 after having left their cars 4 hours earlier, and deputies maintained contact with them to find them. Snowmobiles were used to search the area, however on Monday these snowshoers were found in an area that was inaccessible to the snowmobiles. They are expected to be returned safely by Monday afternoon, although 7 inches of new storm snow is making things challenging. To read more, click here.
--A snowboarder was found face down in the snow by Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Patrol last week, shortly after the last chair. Ski patrol attempted to resuscitate the 15-year-old boarder, however after being unsuccessful he was taken down to the lodge and pronounced dead shortly after. The initial autopsy shows that the cause of the young man's death was not due to injury, and he had no known previous medical complications. The investigation continues, to read more click here.
--A climber was caught taking draws off a sport climb in Smith Rock. The people who spotted him lectured him quite calmly about the ethics of the area and how draws left on a route were not meant for the taking. The whole interaction was caught on camera, and has sparked numerous discussion on the forum boards about draws left on sport routes. To see the video, click here. To read the discussions, click here and here.
--Three men were rescued after an overnight stay on Mt. Brown in Glacier National Park. They were found after a call/text to 911 enabled rescuers to pinpoint them. They were able to build a shelter and fire to come through the night in excellent condition. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--A powerful system has pounded California and the Eastern Sierra with unprecedented December snow and rain. Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort reports that snowfall has set a new record for the snowiest December. Some reports are stating that up to 15 feet of snow has fallen at the resort. To read more, click here and here and here.
--Another snowboard death at a Mountain High resort in Wrightwood California adds to the toll of early season fatalities. The 2010-2011 season seems to be off to an ominous start. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--As the snow flies and the rain falls in the Southwestern United States, some interesting things are happening. The tiny community of Mount Charleston, about an hour outside of Las Vegas, was evacuated last week due to avalanche danger. Mount Charleston is a world renowned sport climbing destination. To read more, click here and here.
--A group of hikers was rescued after they lost the trail near the Tahoe Meadows off of Highway 431. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--Former AAI Guide and Climbing Ranger, Coley Gentzel was interviewed last week in an article about a day last season on Denali. It appears that the perfect climbing day in 2010 was Father's Day. A record, 54 climbers reached the summit in an absolutely perfect window. Additionally, the article in the Anchorage Daily News, hits a number of other Alaska Range season highlights. To read the article, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--UK climbers, Will Sim and Jon Griffith, recently completed an ascent of the east face of Patagonia's Piergiorgio. The pair chose the route with little knowledge of it's history and almost no knowledge of the challenges in store for them. And though the route had been completed before, they took it on as if it were a first ascent. To read more, click here.
--Ouray Ice Park is open! The park opened up on 12/27, after weeks of warm weather and rain destroyed much of the ice in the park, and left the standing ice too dangerous. Park officials believe the park will remain open, and be fully functional by the time of the annual Ouray Ice Fest. To read more, click here and here.
--Over the past year, Squaw Valley, California-based pro skier Mike Wilson, with the help of sponsors and partners, has raised and spent over a million dollars filming six episodes of what the 24-year-old calls an "action-sports-based-adventure-travel show." The pilot, now complete, will be shopped around major networks next week. To read more, click here.
--The Banff Mountain Film World Tour is currently making its way around the United States, Canada and the rest of the world. An interesting question has arisen around this tour. Where are the women in adventure film? The Banff Facebook page has addressed this question, here. And the Heli Ski company, CMH, has also addressed the issue, here.
--Certainly the weather over the holiday's was challenging for many people trying to travel. All of the winter storms have left thousands of travelers stranded. To read more, click here. My advice, fly somewhere you don't mind being stranded, and blame it on the airlines/weather when your boss is calling you on Monday morning.
--A new, comprehensive report has been produced detailing the invasive species which causes Sudden Oak Death, and the general effects of it. This disease has devastated forests in Oregon and California. To read more, click here and here.
--Ski lifts derailed at Sugarloaf ski resort in Maine on Tuesday, injuring at least 8 people at the time of the initial report. While the injuries appear to be minor, a spokesperson for the resort called this a "big deal." To read more, click here. To see a low quality cell phone camera taken from a skier stranded on the lift above, click here.
--Four snowshoers were lost on Sunday after losing the main trail in the Gold Creek Snow Park. They contacted 911 after having left their cars 4 hours earlier, and deputies maintained contact with them to find them. Snowmobiles were used to search the area, however on Monday these snowshoers were found in an area that was inaccessible to the snowmobiles. They are expected to be returned safely by Monday afternoon, although 7 inches of new storm snow is making things challenging. To read more, click here.
--A snowboarder was found face down in the snow by Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Patrol last week, shortly after the last chair. Ski patrol attempted to resuscitate the 15-year-old boarder, however after being unsuccessful he was taken down to the lodge and pronounced dead shortly after. The initial autopsy shows that the cause of the young man's death was not due to injury, and he had no known previous medical complications. The investigation continues, to read more click here.
--A climber was caught taking draws off a sport climb in Smith Rock. The people who spotted him lectured him quite calmly about the ethics of the area and how draws left on a route were not meant for the taking. The whole interaction was caught on camera, and has sparked numerous discussion on the forum boards about draws left on sport routes. To see the video, click here. To read the discussions, click here and here.
--Three men were rescued after an overnight stay on Mt. Brown in Glacier National Park. They were found after a call/text to 911 enabled rescuers to pinpoint them. They were able to build a shelter and fire to come through the night in excellent condition. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--A powerful system has pounded California and the Eastern Sierra with unprecedented December snow and rain. Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort reports that snowfall has set a new record for the snowiest December. Some reports are stating that up to 15 feet of snow has fallen at the resort. To read more, click here and here and here.
--Another snowboard death at a Mountain High resort in Wrightwood California adds to the toll of early season fatalities. The 2010-2011 season seems to be off to an ominous start. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--As the snow flies and the rain falls in the Southwestern United States, some interesting things are happening. The tiny community of Mount Charleston, about an hour outside of Las Vegas, was evacuated last week due to avalanche danger. Mount Charleston is a world renowned sport climbing destination. To read more, click here and here.
--A group of hikers was rescued after they lost the trail near the Tahoe Meadows off of Highway 431. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
Mount Foraker from High Camp on Denali
Photo by Jason Martin
--Former AAI Guide and Climbing Ranger, Coley Gentzel was interviewed last week in an article about a day last season on Denali. It appears that the perfect climbing day in 2010 was Father's Day. A record, 54 climbers reached the summit in an absolutely perfect window. Additionally, the article in the Anchorage Daily News, hits a number of other Alaska Range season highlights. To read the article, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--UK climbers, Will Sim and Jon Griffith, recently completed an ascent of the east face of Patagonia's Piergiorgio. The pair chose the route with little knowledge of it's history and almost no knowledge of the challenges in store for them. And though the route had been completed before, they took it on as if it were a first ascent. To read more, click here.
--Ouray Ice Park is open! The park opened up on 12/27, after weeks of warm weather and rain destroyed much of the ice in the park, and left the standing ice too dangerous. Park officials believe the park will remain open, and be fully functional by the time of the annual Ouray Ice Fest. To read more, click here and here.
--Over the past year, Squaw Valley, California-based pro skier Mike Wilson, with the help of sponsors and partners, has raised and spent over a million dollars filming six episodes of what the 24-year-old calls an "action-sports-based-adventure-travel show." The pilot, now complete, will be shopped around major networks next week. To read more, click here.
AAI Program Coordinator Dyan Padagas getting after it on the First Ascent of Pricks and Ticks (II+, 5.9)
Certainly women are doing amazing things in the mountains. Why aren't there more films about them?
Photo by Jason Martin
--The Banff Mountain Film World Tour is currently making its way around the United States, Canada and the rest of the world. An interesting question has arisen around this tour. Where are the women in adventure film? The Banff Facebook page has addressed this question, here. And the Heli Ski company, CMH, has also addressed the issue, here.
--Certainly the weather over the holiday's was challenging for many people trying to travel. All of the winter storms have left thousands of travelers stranded. To read more, click here. My advice, fly somewhere you don't mind being stranded, and blame it on the airlines/weather when your boss is calling you on Monday morning.
--A new, comprehensive report has been produced detailing the invasive species which causes Sudden Oak Death, and the general effects of it. This disease has devastated forests in Oregon and California. To read more, click here and here.
--Ski lifts derailed at Sugarloaf ski resort in Maine on Tuesday, injuring at least 8 people at the time of the initial report. While the injuries appear to be minor, a spokesperson for the resort called this a "big deal." To read more, click here. To see a low quality cell phone camera taken from a skier stranded on the lift above, click here.
Creatine Supplementing for Women: The Good, The Bad and The Bloated
Proof that even the skinniest girl will look bloated if she stands wrong. And this is how 80% of Star magazine's headlines are born...
That's the question I found myself asking as I read about it in several fitness books this past week. It isn't that I've never heard of it before - you can't spend more than 10 minutes on a weight floor without somebody sprinkling white powder into their drink (note: if they're sprinkling white powder into your drink you are in one of the few situations in which it is totally appropriate to drop a weight on someone's foot) - I just figured it was one of those kooky things that bodybuilders did, you know like wrapping chains around their bench press bar and making sex noises during every rep. But after reading breathless reports of its amazing powers and virtual lack of side effects, I took it as a sign when I found a small canister on clearance at Target. I bought it.
Perhaps I should not buy supplements on clearance at a mega-grocery store but that's a discussion for another day. At any rate, I took my first dose yesterday. The white sparkly powder (seriously, Edward Cullen is jealous) didn't dissolve well in the recommended 8 oz of water but it also didn't taste like anything so I chugged it down and went about my business. An hour later this was me:
Okay so this isn't ME me but my belly was so swollen I pretty much looked 4-months pregnant like J.Lo. here (p.s. Elvis only wishes he could design a maternity line this awesome). While creatine doesn't have any serious side effects - anecdotal reports of severe cramping and dehydration have been disproven in studies - it does have one very uncomfortable side effect: Bloating. And not just "my period is imminent, hide the cookies" bloating but "holy crap, if you poke me with a pin I'll turn into an elephant sprinkler" bloating. While I peed like a racehorse for the rest of the day and the bloating was gone within a few hours, still, I was not happy. Before I tell you more about my little experiment, here are some FAQs about the supplement. (Read here for more info and hilarious answers.)
What is Creatine?
Creatine, an organic compound produced naturally from amino acids in our kidneys and liver and stored in our muscles, was first discovered in the 1800's. By the early 1900's it was already in use as a performance aid (and I mean that in the non-Levitra sense, egads marketing has warped me!). This extensive history has made it one of the most studied supplements on the planet.
There are several different types of creatine and prices range from pennies a serving to $120 for a small canister. Creatine monohydrate, the kind I took that made me inflate like a Macy's Parade float, is the cheapest and most common. Other types of creatine like creatine ethyl ester are supposed to not have the bloating/gas side effect but of course they cost more. And you don't find them on clearance at Target, precluding any "the universe made me buy it" arguments.
How do you use Creatine?
Most sources recommend "loading" for the first 4-5 days by taking 20-30 grams a day with afterwards taking 5-10 grams a day for maintenance. You maintain this load for about 6 weeks and then you stop the creatine for 2-6 weeks before starting a new cycle. Although I did read several recommendations that said to never stop taking it, just to repeat the loading every couple of months.
Most sites I read recommend taking one dose within a half hour of finishing your weight workout and a second right before bed (presumably so you go through the distended-whale stage in your sleep). Make sure that no matter when you take it, you are drinking a ton of water.
What are the effects of Creatine?
It works by drawing water into your muscles and because of this it has the dual effect of 1) making your "pump" or the visible size of your muscles look larger and 2) making you gain weight about 1.5-6 pounds during the first week as your body retains this extra water. The water weight is lost after stopping the creatine but you retain the extra muscle you built - in studies athletes on creatine gained about 5 pounds more of muscle than athletes not on creatine doing the same training program.
Should I be capitalizing Creatine?
I have no idea.
After doing all this research on it, I am super intrigued by the benefits but I have one main concern. It's the weight gain. Don't even pretend you are surprised. While I'm still not weighing myself (two months now scale free, yay me!!) the thought of doing something that could make me gain 5 pounds in one week makes me want to run and cry in my closet just for old time's sake. I don't care if it is water weight. When your pants don't fit, your pants don't fit. I also am not thrilled about my muscles getting "bigger." Yes, I love my new Rachel Cosgrove muscles and I love being strong but I don't necessarily want them any bigger. Less body fat? Higher metabolism? More energy? Yes, please! But I'd like those without the hypertrophy.
Unsurprisingly, when I threw this question out on Twitter, the only people who responded that they had taken it were men. I think a lot of women are scared away from creatine for the same reasons that I am: we don't want to gain weight and we don't want bigger muscles. But what about our lack of testosterone - wouldn't that inherently limit our muscle growth? (And since creatine is not a hormone it would not impact our testosterone or estrogen levels.) And if we're gaining weight but it's all muscle, isn't that a good thing? Plus: TEN IQ POINTS. Who doesn't want to be smarter? (Notice how the reversal of heart disease doesn't even make my top 3? Hahaha...)
I'm stymied. Help me out! Am I being an idiot and looking for a magic solution in a jar? Or does this fall in the "why WOULDN'T you?!" category like fish oil or vitamin D? Any of you take creatine? Anyone want to reach through their monitor and slap some sense into me?
Conditions Report - December 29 2010
NORTHWEST:
--Thinking about doing Chair Peak? Check out this post-Christmas trip report. Looks like the North Face is still a thin, but the Northeast Buttress is a little better.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Here is a good reminder of the geology at Red Rock, and how it is affected by rain. Remember, it can take up to a a few days to a week (debatable time-frame) for some areas to completely dry out.
-- NOAA predicts snow on Wednesday and Thursday this week, with sun returning again on Friday.
--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
--Here is a link to a website dedicated to the events surrounding Joshua Tree National Park's 75th anniversary in 2011. Check it out for up-to-date news on the park and the things going on to celebrate this historic park "birthday."
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
--Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required seven days per week when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail. A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days (300 of these permits are available to day hikers). To read more, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Conditions in the range are not currently available. But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips. To learn more, click here. We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Thinking about doing Chair Peak? Check out this post-Christmas trip report. Looks like the North Face is still a thin, but the Northeast Buttress is a little better.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Here is a good reminder of the geology at Red Rock, and how it is affected by rain. Remember, it can take up to a a few days to a week (debatable time-frame) for some areas to completely dry out.
Clear for the moment in Red Rock Canyon. Taken yesterday afternoon. weatherbug.com
-- NOAA predicts snow on Wednesday and Thursday this week, with sun returning again on Friday.
--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
--Here is a link to a website dedicated to the events surrounding Joshua Tree National Park's 75th anniversary in 2011. Check it out for up-to-date news on the park and the things going on to celebrate this historic park "birthday."
SIERRA:
--Click here for a Webcam view of Yosemite NP. Lots of snow!
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here. Avy conditions are still considerable in some areas.
--Click here for a Webcam view of Yosemite NP. Lots of snow!
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here. Avy conditions are still considerable in some areas.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
--Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required seven days per week when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail. A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days (300 of these permits are available to day hikers). To read more, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Conditions in the range are not currently available. But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips. To learn more, click here. We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
The Euro Death Knot
There is a commonly used knot out there that many people use regularly to join two ropes together that is totally misrepresented by its name. The Euro death knot (EDK) is not dangerous and it is not a death knot. It is likely that American climbers gave the knot this name when they saw Europeans use it because it looked sketchy.
The EDK is officially known as an overhand bend or an overhand flat knot. It would be far better to refer to this knot by one of these names as they do not strike fear into those that use the knot.
The Overhand Bend (AKA Overhand Flat Knot/Euro Death Knot)
In this photo the tail is very short and there is no back-up to the Overhand Bend.
Photo from Wikepedia
Most people like the overhand bend for two reasons. First, because of the knot's asymmetrical profile, it tends to pull smoothly over edges and doesn't get caught as easily. And second, it is very easy to untie.
To tie the knot, lay both ends of the rope together. Make sure that they are pointed in the same direction and then make an overhand knot in both ropes at the same time. This is the overhand bend. Most guides tie a backup by adding a second overhand bend next to the first. This will keep the knot from rolling if there are unexpected high loads.
In the past, most climbers tied the overhand bend alone. If the knot is tied by itself without a backup, there must be a significant tail. It is not recommended to tie the overhand bend by itself.
Some people tie an overhand eight in lieu of an overhand bend. This is far more likely to roll than a unbacked-up overhand bend and is not recommended.
Most of our guides tend to tie not only their rappel ropes together with an overhand bend, but their cordelletes as well. Guides tie their cordelletes with this knot because it is easy to untie. A cordellete that may be opened has a great deal more flexibility. It can easily be opened up and used like a webolette. Some like the ability to open up a cordellete because an open cordellete without a welded double-fisherman's knot can be cut up more effectively for anchor material.
Following is a short video from the Canadian guide, Mike Barter, on how to tie a overhand bend.
--Jason D. Martin
The EDK is officially known as an overhand bend or an overhand flat knot. It would be far better to refer to this knot by one of these names as they do not strike fear into those that use the knot.
The Overhand Bend (AKA Overhand Flat Knot/Euro Death Knot)In this photo the tail is very short and there is no back-up to the Overhand Bend.
Photo from Wikepedia
Most people like the overhand bend for two reasons. First, because of the knot's asymmetrical profile, it tends to pull smoothly over edges and doesn't get caught as easily. And second, it is very easy to untie.
To tie the knot, lay both ends of the rope together. Make sure that they are pointed in the same direction and then make an overhand knot in both ropes at the same time. This is the overhand bend. Most guides tie a backup by adding a second overhand bend next to the first. This will keep the knot from rolling if there are unexpected high loads.
In the past, most climbers tied the overhand bend alone. If the knot is tied by itself without a backup, there must be a significant tail. It is not recommended to tie the overhand bend by itself.
Some people tie an overhand eight in lieu of an overhand bend. This is far more likely to roll than a unbacked-up overhand bend and is not recommended.
Most of our guides tend to tie not only their rappel ropes together with an overhand bend, but their cordelletes as well. Guides tie their cordelletes with this knot because it is easy to untie. A cordellete that may be opened has a great deal more flexibility. It can easily be opened up and used like a webolette. Some like the ability to open up a cordellete because an open cordellete without a welded double-fisherman's knot can be cut up more effectively for anchor material.
Following is a short video from the Canadian guide, Mike Barter, on how to tie a overhand bend.
--Jason D. Martin
Former AAI Guide does TED Presentation
Former AAI Guide, Majika Burhardt has been making a good portion of her living writing about her adventures. She has focused the majority of her writing on the three things that she loves, climbing adventure, coffee and Ethiopia. In 2008, she published her first book, Vertical Ethiopia: Climbing Toward Possibility in the Horn of Africa.
Recently Majika had the opportunity to talk about her book at a TED: Ideas Worth Spreading conference. These are conferences where speakers try to inspire people into action. Majika's gave a passionate speech about climbing in Africa and about how coffee can change Ethiopia in a positive way. The following is a video of that speech:
Majika second book, Coffee Story: Ethiopia will be available soon.
--Jason D. Martin
Recently Majika had the opportunity to talk about her book at a TED: Ideas Worth Spreading conference. These are conferences where speakers try to inspire people into action. Majika's gave a passionate speech about climbing in Africa and about how coffee can change Ethiopia in a positive way. The following is a video of that speech:
Majika second book, Coffee Story: Ethiopia will be available soon.
--Jason D. Martin
January and February Climbing Events
-- Jan 6-9 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Fest
-- Jan 5 -- Skagit Valley, WA -- Jason Hummel Slideshow
-- Jan 7 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Sun Valley Dinner
-- Jan 15-16 -- Green Bay, WI -- Ice Pit Festival
-- Jan 17 -- Seattle, WA -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees
-- Jan 18 -- Golden, CO -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees
-- Jan 11-25 -- Tanzania -- Climb to Fight Breast Cancer
-- Jan 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Travel Medicine Seminar
-- Jan 14 -- Nevada City, CA -- Wild and Scenic Film Festival
-- Jan 22 -- Bellingham, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge
-- Jan 27 -- Seattle, WA -- Altitude Illness Seminar
-- Jan 29 -- Truckee, CA -- Lost Trail Lodge Ice Climbing
-- Feb 5 -- Mammoth, CA -- (Ski Mountaineering) Mammoth Chase
-- Feb 12-13 -- Alpental, WA -- VertFest sponsored by OR
-- Feb 26 -- Seattle, WA -- AAC Annual Benefit and Awards Dinner
Weekend Warrior - Videos To Get You Stoked!!!
Merry Christmas Everyone!
In honor of this holly, jolly day, I would like to pay tribute to Santa and his potentially extreme ways. I would love to support the other religious holidays during this winter season, however none of them have a "mascot" quite like Santa!
Here Comes Santa Claus Skiing Whistler, BC from Chris Wheeler on Vimeo.
Apparently the tough times have hit Santa as well, the North Pole's economy is obviously down. His elves are on strike, and it appears he had to take up some rope access work as a window washer to make up the deficit in his budget. Good on you Santa!
Santa is Coming from Roberto Kaplan on Vimeo.
--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator
In honor of this holly, jolly day, I would like to pay tribute to Santa and his potentially extreme ways. I would love to support the other religious holidays during this winter season, however none of them have a "mascot" quite like Santa!
Here Comes Santa Claus Skiing Whistler, BC from Chris Wheeler on Vimeo.
Apparently the tough times have hit Santa as well, the North Pole's economy is obviously down. His elves are on strike, and it appears he had to take up some rope access work as a window washer to make up the deficit in his budget. Good on you Santa!
Santa is Coming from Roberto Kaplan on Vimeo.
--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator
Marking Your Gear
The Facebook post was incredibly embarrassing. "It looked like a crime scene," my wife wrote. "An entire bottle of blood red nail polish spilled from the kitchen counter top, all down the cabinet door, and ending in a 3-foot spray across the tile floor. Who could have created such a mess? My 2-year old? My 3-year old?"
I could imagine her smile as she typed the next line for all of her friends to see. "No...it was my husband! And it was HIS nail polish."
Yes, I admit it.
It was MY nail polish. And yes, I did spill it everywhere. But in my defense, I was using it to mark my climbing gear...which is exactly what I wrote in response to her post. But that didn't stop the good-natured ribbing.
When the accident took place, I was trying to update all of my gear with the latest in gear marking technology, nail polish. Most of my climbing friends and nearly all of the guides at the American Alpine Institute long ago moved away from multi-colored tape on hardware and toward the use of nail polish.
In the past, each of my carabiners had two strips of electrical tape around the spine. One strip was black and one was red. The dual colors helped to keep them from getting mixed up with other people's gear. The problem with the tape though is that it wears off. It starts to fall off in a sticky mess, creating micro-trash in the mountains.
To keep the nail polish from rubbing off, I try to paint it on near the hinge at the base of the gate and next to the nose. Because these areas are mildly inset, ropes and rocks don't tend to rub as much and the paint markings stays on for a long time.
It is also possible to mark cams and stoppers with nail polish dots in strategic locations. Look for a spot where your dots will not be easily scraped off, but where you can see them without too much trouble.
It is important to note that I still have multi-colored electrical tape on my slings, over the stitching. You definitely would NOT want to put nail polish onto a soft good like a sling. While I don't know exactly what's inside nail polish, I can only assume that the chemicals would have a negative and perhaps even dangerous impact on the material.
Those who swap partners a lot should really play it safe. Protect yourself. Mark it carefully and you'll lose less of it. Mark it poorly and your gear will slowly migrate away to your partners racks...
Jason D. Martin
I could imagine her smile as she typed the next line for all of her friends to see. "No...it was my husband! And it was HIS nail polish."
Yes, I admit it.
It was MY nail polish. And yes, I did spill it everywhere. But in my defense, I was using it to mark my climbing gear...which is exactly what I wrote in response to her post. But that didn't stop the good-natured ribbing.
When the accident took place, I was trying to update all of my gear with the latest in gear marking technology, nail polish. Most of my climbing friends and nearly all of the guides at the American Alpine Institute long ago moved away from multi-colored tape on hardware and toward the use of nail polish.
Both of the carabiners in this photo have been marked for about the same amount of time.
The carabiner on the left has nail polish painted in strategic location. Whereas the carabiner
on the right has electrical tape on the spine. Clearly the tape did not hold up as well as the polish.
In the past, each of my carabiners had two strips of electrical tape around the spine. One strip was black and one was red. The dual colors helped to keep them from getting mixed up with other people's gear. The problem with the tape though is that it wears off. It starts to fall off in a sticky mess, creating micro-trash in the mountains.
To keep the nail polish from rubbing off, I try to paint it on near the hinge at the base of the gate and next to the nose. Because these areas are mildly inset, ropes and rocks don't tend to rub as much and the paint markings stays on for a long time.
It is also possible to mark cams and stoppers with nail polish dots in strategic locations. Look for a spot where your dots will not be easily scraped off, but where you can see them without too much trouble.
I put two dots on each of my cams. My colors are red and black. It's always
good to mark your gear with more than one color.
It is important to note that I still have multi-colored electrical tape on my slings, over the stitching. You definitely would NOT want to put nail polish onto a soft good like a sling. While I don't know exactly what's inside nail polish, I can only assume that the chemicals would have a negative and perhaps even dangerous impact on the material.
Those who swap partners a lot should really play it safe. Protect yourself. Mark it carefully and you'll lose less of it. Mark it poorly and your gear will slowly migrate away to your partners racks...
Jason D. Martin
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 12/23/10
Northwest:
--A Revelstoke man plucked from freezing water after being trapped at the bottom of a Banff-area creek remembers gasping for breath in a pocket of air under the ice, wondering if he'd ever see his loved ones again. Eric Vezeau, 42, said his rescue was, "pure damn luck." The backcountry ski guide ventured out alone Monday onto the creek below Johnston Canyon, approximately 15 kilometres west of Banff. He was equipped with crampons and a helmet, but as he stepped off the shore and onto the frozen creek, the ice gave way and sent him into the freezing water, under the ice. To read more, click here.
--A U.S. Coast Guard helicopter flew a Southwestern Oregon Community College student to Bay Area Hospital last night after the 20-year-old man fell off a cliff near Bastendorff Beach near Coquille, Oregon. Charleston Rural Fire Protection District Chief Mick Sneddon said three young men had been climbing a cliff off Yoakum Point last week when one fell onto the rocks and into a small chasm. To read more, click here.
--Skiers in White Pass are having a hard time. It appears that they keep getting lost beyond the bounds of the new Paradise Basin expansion. Skiers who are lost and need to be recovered are being charged by the ski patrol for their rescues. To read more, click here.
--An avid skier lost on Mt. Spokane this weekend overcame snow, rain, and 20-degree temperatures to survive. Sixty-six year-old Wayne Schuh says he kept going even when he almost lost hope.
A wrong turn led Schuh down the backside of Mt. Spokane and he found himself in a dangerous spot. After decades of skiing, Saturday was the first time he had ever been lost.
--Despite almost 300 more Squamish bear calls in 2010 than in 2009, the calls were more sightings than conflicts. “Out of over 500 calls 61 per cent were just sightings,” said local Bear Aware co-ordinator Meg Toom. “Bears walking through the street, bears walking through a yard — there was no real conflict involved.” To read more, click here.
--The Squamish Access Society has started its winter re-bolting initiative. If you would like to learn more or if you would like to get involved, click here.
Sierra:
--Well respected Yosemite guide Albert Nugue was killed in a traffic accident in San Jose on Sunday. Nugue recently climbed 36 pitches in a day to celebrate his 36th birthday. He was well known to climbers througout California and Thailand where he spent a handful of winters. To read more, click here. To read a profile of him, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--The weather has been crazy this week. The Red Rock Canyon Scenic Drive has been sporadically open due to flooding. And Zion National Park is closed until further notice. To read about the Zion, click here.
--A 34-year veteran of the National Park Service is the newly appointed superintendent for Joshua Tree National Park, effective next month, it was announced Monday. Mark Butler replaces Curtis Sauer, who retired in September and “has extensive experience in park management, planning, partnerships and public involvement,” said Pacific West Regional Director Chris Lehnertz. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--Mountaineer Lonnie Dupre, 49, is going to attempt a solo climb of Denali in January. Dupre has a great deal of wilderness experience and says he understands the danger he faces on this journey, with temperatures down to 50 below and winds of 100 mph or more. “Only nine expeditions totaling sixteen people have ever reached the summit of Denali in winter,” he states on his website. “Six deaths resulted from those climbs. Only one team has ever made the summit in January, the dead of winter. To read more, click here.
--Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer climbed a beautiful ice line on the southwest face of Lobuje East (20,075') in Nepal's Khumbu Himal. Night Terror climbs a runnel of ice up an enormous corner and clocks in at WI5+ AI4 M7 85°. To read more, click here.
--Max Belleville, Mathiew Detrie, Mathieu Maynadier and Seb Ratel were the first to complete an ascent of Lunag II (22,408') near the Nepal-Tibet boarder. The French team finished the mixed route on a three day stint in October. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--A 22-year old British woman was killed in Aspen last week after skiing into a tree. Kiera Tonish lived and worked at Aspen over the last two season. To read more, click here.
--A skier was lucky to survive after he was caught by an avalanche on Sunday. In Granite Canyon north of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, a skier who left the resort boundary triggered a slide that carried him 1,000 feet. The skier — the third to cross the steep slope — was injured but not buried. To read more, click here.
--Police have charged a man with child abuse for punching a 14-year-old girl in the face Friday on Beaver Creek Mountain in Colorado. The Sheriff's Office gave Scott Filler, 41, of Decatur, Ga., a summons to appear in court for misdemeanor child abuse, a police spokesman said. The 14-year-old girl from Mexico had been skiing on a beginner run with a ski school class when she swerved to avoid a skier who had fallen in front of her, the statement said. The girl bumped into a 4-year-old boy who had been skiing with his father on the same run. The boy and girl fell, the statement said. The father of the 4-year-old boy said he thought his son had been seriously hurt and that the girl had been skiing carelessly. To read more, click here.
--The Ouray Ice Park has been closed for most of the week due to rain and warm temperatures. They are hoping to open the canyon to limited use this weekend. To learn more, click here.
--The American Alpine Club has purchased 40 acres of land in Fayetteville, West Virginia within walking distance of rock climbing at the New River Gorge. The AAC’s plan is to build a campground for climbers at this location. This purchase was made possible by the generosity of AAC donors along with other financing. Notably, just over one-third of the funding was a loan from the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. The property was chosen by local climbers and the New River Alliance of Climbers. To read more, click here.
--Speaking of the South... It looks like some people really want to go skiing. On Wednesday, a young man decided to go "road skiing," that is, he decided that he wanted to be pulled on skis by a pickup truck. Unfortunately for him, he decided to do it right in front of a Sheriff's Deputy. To read more, click here.
--The UK Climbing website has publicly raised doubts about a leading sponsored UK-climber may be lying about his accomplishments. The website asked Rich Simpson a number of simple and straightforward questions about his ascents, like who belayed you, and the climber refused to comment. Both Wild Country and Scarpa have pulled their sponsorships from the individual. To read more, click here.
--Early this Fall, Dick Jackson, a climber, guide and paraglider, launched off the top of a peak in Western Colorado and crashed. Jackson suffered multiple injuries in his accident and is still recovering in a wheelchair. This week the Forest Service is considering whether they will fine Jackson for violating a regulation against mechanized use in wilderness areas. The question is whether a paraglider is considered in the same light as a hang glider. To read more, click here and here.
--A Revelstoke man plucked from freezing water after being trapped at the bottom of a Banff-area creek remembers gasping for breath in a pocket of air under the ice, wondering if he'd ever see his loved ones again. Eric Vezeau, 42, said his rescue was, "pure damn luck." The backcountry ski guide ventured out alone Monday onto the creek below Johnston Canyon, approximately 15 kilometres west of Banff. He was equipped with crampons and a helmet, but as he stepped off the shore and onto the frozen creek, the ice gave way and sent him into the freezing water, under the ice. To read more, click here.
--A U.S. Coast Guard helicopter flew a Southwestern Oregon Community College student to Bay Area Hospital last night after the 20-year-old man fell off a cliff near Bastendorff Beach near Coquille, Oregon. Charleston Rural Fire Protection District Chief Mick Sneddon said three young men had been climbing a cliff off Yoakum Point last week when one fell onto the rocks and into a small chasm. To read more, click here.
--Skiers in White Pass are having a hard time. It appears that they keep getting lost beyond the bounds of the new Paradise Basin expansion. Skiers who are lost and need to be recovered are being charged by the ski patrol for their rescues. To read more, click here.
--An avid skier lost on Mt. Spokane this weekend overcame snow, rain, and 20-degree temperatures to survive. Sixty-six year-old Wayne Schuh says he kept going even when he almost lost hope.
A wrong turn led Schuh down the backside of Mt. Spokane and he found himself in a dangerous spot. After decades of skiing, Saturday was the first time he had ever been lost.
--The Squamish Access Society has started its winter re-bolting initiative. If you would like to learn more or if you would like to get involved, click here.
Sierra:
--Well respected Yosemite guide Albert Nugue was killed in a traffic accident in San Jose on Sunday. Nugue recently climbed 36 pitches in a day to celebrate his 36th birthday. He was well known to climbers througout California and Thailand where he spent a handful of winters. To read more, click here. To read a profile of him, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--The weather has been crazy this week. The Red Rock Canyon Scenic Drive has been sporadically open due to flooding. And Zion National Park is closed until further notice. To read about the Zion, click here.
--A 34-year veteran of the National Park Service is the newly appointed superintendent for Joshua Tree National Park, effective next month, it was announced Monday. Mark Butler replaces Curtis Sauer, who retired in September and “has extensive experience in park management, planning, partnerships and public involvement,” said Pacific West Regional Director Chris Lehnertz. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
Mount Hunter during the Regular Climbing Season
Photo by Jason Martin
Himalaya:
--Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer climbed a beautiful ice line on the southwest face of Lobuje East (20,075') in Nepal's Khumbu Himal. Night Terror climbs a runnel of ice up an enormous corner and clocks in at WI5+ AI4 M7 85°. To read more, click here.
--Max Belleville, Mathiew Detrie, Mathieu Maynadier and Seb Ratel were the first to complete an ascent of Lunag II (22,408') near the Nepal-Tibet boarder. The French team finished the mixed route on a three day stint in October. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--A 22-year old British woman was killed in Aspen last week after skiing into a tree. Kiera Tonish lived and worked at Aspen over the last two season. To read more, click here.
--A skier was lucky to survive after he was caught by an avalanche on Sunday. In Granite Canyon north of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, a skier who left the resort boundary triggered a slide that carried him 1,000 feet. The skier — the third to cross the steep slope — was injured but not buried. To read more, click here.
--Police have charged a man with child abuse for punching a 14-year-old girl in the face Friday on Beaver Creek Mountain in Colorado. The Sheriff's Office gave Scott Filler, 41, of Decatur, Ga., a summons to appear in court for misdemeanor child abuse, a police spokesman said. The 14-year-old girl from Mexico had been skiing on a beginner run with a ski school class when she swerved to avoid a skier who had fallen in front of her, the statement said. The girl bumped into a 4-year-old boy who had been skiing with his father on the same run. The boy and girl fell, the statement said. The father of the 4-year-old boy said he thought his son had been seriously hurt and that the girl had been skiing carelessly. To read more, click here.
--The Ouray Ice Park has been closed for most of the week due to rain and warm temperatures. They are hoping to open the canyon to limited use this weekend. To learn more, click here.
--Speaking of the South... It looks like some people really want to go skiing. On Wednesday, a young man decided to go "road skiing," that is, he decided that he wanted to be pulled on skis by a pickup truck. Unfortunately for him, he decided to do it right in front of a Sheriff's Deputy. To read more, click here.
--The UK Climbing website has publicly raised doubts about a leading sponsored UK-climber may be lying about his accomplishments. The website asked Rich Simpson a number of simple and straightforward questions about his ascents, like who belayed you, and the climber refused to comment. Both Wild Country and Scarpa have pulled their sponsorships from the individual. To read more, click here.
--Early this Fall, Dick Jackson, a climber, guide and paraglider, launched off the top of a peak in Western Colorado and crashed. Jackson suffered multiple injuries in his accident and is still recovering in a wheelchair. This week the Forest Service is considering whether they will fine Jackson for violating a regulation against mechanized use in wilderness areas. The question is whether a paraglider is considered in the same light as a hang glider. To read more, click here and here.
Conditions Report - December 22, 2010
NORTHWEST:
--OK, if you haven't been out to Hyalite Canyon, you should. Feel the stoke with this trip report. Everything is fat, in, and blue. Some things look a little picked out, but the hiker will be well-rewarded.
--Gondola construction at Crystal Mountain has been delayed. Click here.
--Ski Chair Peak by moonlight? It's been done. Click here. There are also some good notes on the lake approach.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Red Rock is rainy and stormy right now. I'd watch out for loose sandstone.
--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
--Here is a link to a website dedicated to the events surrounding Joshua Tree National Park's 75th anniversary in 2011. Check it out for up-to-date news on the park and the things going on to celebrate this historic park "birthday."
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
--Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required seven days per week when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail. A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days (300 of these permits are available to day hikers). To read more, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Conditions in the range are not currently available. But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips. To learn more, click here. We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--OK, if you haven't been out to Hyalite Canyon, you should. Feel the stoke with this trip report. Everything is fat, in, and blue. Some things look a little picked out, but the hiker will be well-rewarded.
--Gondola construction at Crystal Mountain has been delayed. Click here.
--Ski Chair Peak by moonlight? It's been done. Click here. There are also some good notes on the lake approach.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Red Rock is rainy and stormy right now. I'd watch out for loose sandstone.
--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
--Here is a link to a website dedicated to the events surrounding Joshua Tree National Park's 75th anniversary in 2011. Check it out for up-to-date news on the park and the things going on to celebrate this historic park "birthday."
SIERRA:
--As my roommate said recently, "Dear California, Please stop stealing all the PNW snow. Thanks.". Rightly stated. Mammoth in particular is dumping right now. Check it out.
--That said, flood warning are all over the lowlands. Click here for Bishop beta.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--As my roommate said recently, "Dear California, Please stop stealing all the PNW snow. Thanks.". Rightly stated. Mammoth in particular is dumping right now. Check it out.
--That said, flood warning are all over the lowlands. Click here for Bishop beta.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
--Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required seven days per week when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail. A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days (300 of these permits are available to day hikers). To read more, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Conditions in the range are not currently available. But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips. To learn more, click here. We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
Rules of Ice Climbing: A Trip to Hyalite Canyon
I'm not a cold-weather person. You've probably heard this before. I'm a desert person. I like Red Rock. I don't even own a down jacket.
But, this Thanksgiving, I had the opportunity to branch out a little. After a 12-hour white-knuckle drive in horrible road conditions, climbing everything a reasonable distance away from the parking lot in five days with seven other guys, I now know and respect the five rules of ice climbing:
1) Look good.
2) Don't fall.
3) Don't fall. (This is important.)
4) Saying you can climbing something is just as good as actually climbing it.
5) Take lots of pictures.
In honor of Rule #5, here is a photo essay trip report.
Lastly, I'd like to add my own rule:
6) Never turn down a top-rope. There is no shame in top-roping.
Thanks to everyone who made this trip a blast.
--Dyan Padagas, Program Coordinator
But, this Thanksgiving, I had the opportunity to branch out a little. After a 12-hour white-knuckle drive in horrible road conditions, climbing everything a reasonable distance away from the parking lot in five days with seven other guys, I now know and respect the five rules of ice climbing:
1) Look good.
2) Don't fall.
3) Don't fall. (This is important.)
4) Saying you can climbing something is just as good as actually climbing it.
5) Take lots of pictures.
In honor of Rule #5, here is a photo essay trip report.
Guidebooks are a must!
We spent some time dreaming about things we can't quite do yet.
Heels down! Trust your feet.
Climbing until it's dark is a must.
Sometimes you have to slog to get to where you want to go.
I learned something very important on this trip: I have very poor circulation in my feet. I still can't quite feel my big toes.
Lastly, I'd like to add my own rule:
6) Never turn down a top-rope. There is no shame in top-roping.
Thanks to everyone who made this trip a blast.
--Dyan Padagas, Program Coordinator
Choosing The Right Partner
I've noticed that a majority of my blog posts have a "reflective" theme to them. However, being able to evaluate situations after the fact and learn from them, is an important tool to progress in the mountains. My most recent reflection revolves around the month long road trip I just took and the importance of choosing the right partner for the right climb.
For the month of October, my terribly strict employer (read: sarcasm) told me to take a month off and to go work on my climbing resume. I took this opportunity gladly, and planned a road trip that would have me hitting many of the areas we have programs in. Joshua Tree, Lee Vining, parts of the High Sierra, and of course Red Rock. I started reading route descriptions and making a tick list, and then realized I still needed someone to climb with and a way to get there. Partner-less and vehicle-less I thought the trip wouldn't happen, but out of nowhere a friend contacts me and lets me know he just bought a car and is looking for something to fill his October. I guess the stars aligned, because I just solved both of my problems without even trying.
We discussed a game plan and it sounded like we were on the exact same page when it came to our goals for the trip. The idea was to climb as much as possible, ideally in the mountains, where we would have to move quickly over big alpine routes. Pushing our grade level was less important than improving efficiency and building our mental game.
After the first two weeks of our trip however, I felt as though the way I approached these goals was significantly different from the way my partner did. I started to get frustrated with nuances in climbing style, and the pressure of being on the road with somebody and sharing each others space 24/7 was getting to me. The disconnect between us in the mountains was only exacerbated by the disconnect between us in the front-country, and vice-versa. I definitely take the blame for not communicating my feelings earlier, but the partnership just wasn't working for me.
I started to feel like the climbing trip was not serving its purpose at all. Yes, I got up a few routes, but not nearly as many as I had hoped and not nearly in the style and enjoyment I was looking for. It was funny how I was waking up, less than stoked to go climbing each day, mostly because I didn't really feel connected to the person I was climbing with. Additionally, I felt less bold on route, and less willing to try something that challenged me because I just didn't trust the partnership. Again though, it seems as though the universe was looking out for me because I was blessed with meeting another climber who would join our trip.
This new climber joined us for a few days of cragging in Joshua Tree, which was a fantastic way to break the ice and to allow a sense of separation from the original partnership. Partner #2, as I will refer to him, and I got along much better and I felt a sense of encouragement between us that was mutual. We traveled together to Red Rock, and that is when I felt my trip really started to be productive. Day after day, Partner #2 and I climbed big link-ups and moved quickly in the mountains. The climbing was amazingly fun, and our accomplishments felt less important to share with others because we knew what they meant personally, and that's all that mattered. Not only did I climb harder and faster than I ever have before, I was enjoying the climbing more than ever, simply because I had a good connection with my partner.
At this point you may be thinking that I'm talking about a romantic relationship instead of a climbing partnership, but in some respects they share very similar qualities. I didn't enjoy climbing with Partner #2 because of the conversations we had, I enjoyed climbing with him because of how comfortable we were to be silent during our 30 second belay transitions. Sure one of us had just lead the crux pitch, and the other had followed it with a backpack, and perhaps there was an awesome run-out section, but talking about it now meant nothing because there was still more elevation to gain on route. This shared thought alone gave me the confidence and desire to push on with the same energy pitch after pitch, day after day.
I wish I could list off the 5 things you want to look for in a partner before choosing one, but ultimately I found there is no formula. The partner that is perfect for me, may be the absolute worst partner for you. Additionally, the people I hang out with consistently might not be the people I would want in the mountains with me. You really have to step back and decide if a partnership is healthy, and if it's not, have the courage to say something and move on. Life is too short to be frustrated while climbing, go out and find a partner that really encourages your climbing and that you can feed off one another. And when you find that person, never let them go.
--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator
For the month of October, my terribly strict employer (read: sarcasm) told me to take a month off and to go work on my climbing resume. I took this opportunity gladly, and planned a road trip that would have me hitting many of the areas we have programs in. Joshua Tree, Lee Vining, parts of the High Sierra, and of course Red Rock. I started reading route descriptions and making a tick list, and then realized I still needed someone to climb with and a way to get there. Partner-less and vehicle-less I thought the trip wouldn't happen, but out of nowhere a friend contacts me and lets me know he just bought a car and is looking for something to fill his October. I guess the stars aligned, because I just solved both of my problems without even trying.
 |
| Although the author found a partner and transportation, he was unable to solve the problem of his clashing clothes. Approaching North Peak in the High Sierras |
 |
| First stop, a multi-pitch route at Smith Rock, OR, to test out the partnership |
 |
| Climbing was starting to feel like I was carrying a heavy burden (at the top of Fairview Dome in Toulumne Meadows) |
This new climber joined us for a few days of cragging in Joshua Tree, which was a fantastic way to break the ice and to allow a sense of separation from the original partnership. Partner #2, as I will refer to him, and I got along much better and I felt a sense of encouragement between us that was mutual. We traveled together to Red Rock, and that is when I felt my trip really started to be productive. Day after day, Partner #2 and I climbed big link-ups and moved quickly in the mountains. The climbing was amazingly fun, and our accomplishments felt less important to share with others because we knew what they meant personally, and that's all that mattered. Not only did I climb harder and faster than I ever have before, I was enjoying the climbing more than ever, simply because I had a good connection with my partner.
 |
| Having tons of fun, two pitches from the top of Dream of Wild Turkeys in Red Rock, NV |
 |
| The author climbing one of those slabby crux traverse pitches that you just don't need to talk about |
 |
| Capturing the happy partnership after a link-up of Black Orpheus to Solar Slab, roughly 3400 vertical feet and 24 pitches of stellar rock climbing. |
--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator
Independent Public Help With Rescue From The Tatoosh!
Kudos to visitors who help during carry-outs!
On November 21st, an experienced 49 year old male was skiing in the Sunbeam Creek drainage off the Steven's Canyon Road. This leads up into the Tatoosh Range between The Castle and Foss Peak. At about 1:00 pm he was skiing a shallow chute a few hundred feet below the ridge crest.
As he skied down he hit a rock and his skis suddenly stopped. He crashed and was not able to get back up. He and other party members on scene quickly determined it was likely a classic boot-top fracture. They splinted the injury, stabilized him, and they went for help.
At about 3:30 in the afternoon, the National Park Service was notified and rangers took the reporting party back to where they had exited on the road. A hasty team was sent back up their ski tracks to locate the patient.
Here's where we give respect.
There were only a few rangers on that day in the immediate area, and only 2 were initially available to help with the carry out. Four independent members of the public who were also skiing that drainage that day volunteered to help.
Special thanks to:
Marty Gunderson of Woodinville, WA
Oliver Evans of Seattle, WA
Peter Moore of Seattle, WA
Simon Windell of Seattle, WA
These four were given a litter, technical gear, and EMS supplies to pack back up the hill for about 45 minutes. Without their help, it would've taken us a lot longer to get to the patient, stabilize, and transport.
The patient was sledded out in a carbon fiber ski patrol litter called an akja, supplied by Cascade Toboggan. The four volunteers plus available rangers helped pull the litter through the flats for a quick load onto our ambulance and transport to the hospital. We didn't get out to the road until well after dark.
Injuries aside, this rescue went very smoothly, largely due to the help of independent public recreationists who were able and willing to lend a hand.
Thanks, guys!
On November 21st, an experienced 49 year old male was skiing in the Sunbeam Creek drainage off the Steven's Canyon Road. This leads up into the Tatoosh Range between The Castle and Foss Peak. At about 1:00 pm he was skiing a shallow chute a few hundred feet below the ridge crest.
As he skied down he hit a rock and his skis suddenly stopped. He crashed and was not able to get back up. He and other party members on scene quickly determined it was likely a classic boot-top fracture. They splinted the injury, stabilized him, and they went for help.
At about 3:30 in the afternoon, the National Park Service was notified and rangers took the reporting party back to where they had exited on the road. A hasty team was sent back up their ski tracks to locate the patient.
Here's where we give respect.
There were only a few rangers on that day in the immediate area, and only 2 were initially available to help with the carry out. Four independent members of the public who were also skiing that drainage that day volunteered to help.
Special thanks to:
Marty Gunderson of Woodinville, WA
Oliver Evans of Seattle, WA
Peter Moore of Seattle, WA
Simon Windell of Seattle, WA
These four were given a litter, technical gear, and EMS supplies to pack back up the hill for about 45 minutes. Without their help, it would've taken us a lot longer to get to the patient, stabilize, and transport.
The patient was sledded out in a carbon fiber ski patrol litter called an akja, supplied by Cascade Toboggan. The four volunteers plus available rangers helped pull the litter through the flats for a quick load onto our ambulance and transport to the hospital. We didn't get out to the road until well after dark.
Injuries aside, this rescue went very smoothly, largely due to the help of independent public recreationists who were able and willing to lend a hand.
Thanks, guys!
December and January Climbing Events
-- Jan 1 -- American Alpine Club Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Grant Proposal Due
-- Jan 1 -- American Alpine Club Mountain Fellowship Applications Due
-- Jan 1 -- American Alpine Club McNeil-Nott Grant Application Due
-- Jan 6-9 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Fest
-- Jan 7 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Sun Valley Dinner
-- Jan 15-16 -- Green Bay, WI -- Ice Pit Festival
-- Jan 17 -- Seattle, WA -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees
-- Jan 18 -- Golden, CO -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees
-- Jan 11-25 -- Tanzania -- Climb to Fight Breast Cancer
-- Jan 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Travel Medicine Seminar
-- Jan 14 -- Nevada City, CA -- Wild and Scenic Film Festival
-- Jan 22 -- Bellingham, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge
-- Jan 27 -- Seattle, WA -- Altitude Illness Seminar
-- Jan 29 -- Truckee, CA -- Lost Trail Lodge Ice Climbing
-- Jan 1 -- American Alpine Club Mountain Fellowship Applications Due
-- Jan 1 -- American Alpine Club McNeil-Nott Grant Application Due
-- Jan 6-9 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Fest
-- Jan 7 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Sun Valley Dinner
-- Jan 15-16 -- Green Bay, WI -- Ice Pit Festival
-- Jan 17 -- Seattle, WA -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees
-- Jan 18 -- Golden, CO -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees
-- Jan 11-25 -- Tanzania -- Climb to Fight Breast Cancer
-- Jan 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Travel Medicine Seminar
-- Jan 14 -- Nevada City, CA -- Wild and Scenic Film Festival
-- Jan 22 -- Bellingham, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge
-- Jan 27 -- Seattle, WA -- Altitude Illness Seminar
-- Jan 29 -- Truckee, CA -- Lost Trail Lodge Ice Climbing
Weekend Warriot - Videos To Get You Stoked!!!
So last week we featured a 3 year old crushing it on the boulders of Tennessee, and this week I would like to go to the other end of the spectrum. Francisco "Novato" Marin is 58 years old and climbed a 5.14a in Rodellar, Spain. I would love to climb 5.14a at 58, heck I would love to be able to climb 5.14a now and I'm 22! Thankfully I have time to get there, and Francisco as an example to prove it is possible.
Novato en Botanics - Rodellar 2010 from Christian Checa on Vimeo.
While no where near the "older" category at 41, Hirayama Yuji is already talking about his "second life," after climbing. Well, in his first life he won the World Cup twice, in 1998 and in 2000, both in Slovenia. I found this video to not necessarily be "stoke inducing," but it is certainly touching to hear Yuji talk about climbing, his family, the places it has taken him, and what others think of him. Next time I go out and climb it will be less about how hard I can crush, and more about how humble I can be.
Hirayama Yuji (平山ユージ) - On The Road To Slovenia from Rožle Bregar - kloc on Vimeo.
--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator
Novato en Botanics - Rodellar 2010 from Christian Checa on Vimeo.
While no where near the "older" category at 41, Hirayama Yuji is already talking about his "second life," after climbing. Well, in his first life he won the World Cup twice, in 1998 and in 2000, both in Slovenia. I found this video to not necessarily be "stoke inducing," but it is certainly touching to hear Yuji talk about climbing, his family, the places it has taken him, and what others think of him. Next time I go out and climb it will be less about how hard I can crush, and more about how humble I can be.
Hirayama Yuji (平山ユージ) - On The Road To Slovenia from Rožle Bregar - kloc on Vimeo.
--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator
Flightseeing Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan in the Winter!
AAI backpacking guide, Jeff Ries, has a hobby that allows him to provide us with some of the most fantastic photos imaginable. Jeff is a private pilot.
On a recent beautiful winter day, Jeff made a quick tour around Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan in his little plane. The following photo essay is the result of that flight.
--Jason D. Martin
On a recent beautiful winter day, Jeff made a quick tour around Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan in his little plane. The following photo essay is the result of that flight.
The north side of Mount Baker and the Black Buttes.
The Black Buttes and the Easton Glacier.
The Easton and the Squak Glaciers
Sherman Peak, the Boulder and the Park Glaciers
Mount Shuksan
Mount Shuksan's distinctive summit pyramid and the Sulphide Glacier
Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan
Mount Shuksan's Summit Pyramid
--Jason D. Martin
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)