The Start of a Grand Adventure-Day 4, Full Exum Ridge
The alarm went off early, too early. I usually don't feel sleepy, but at four in the morning all I could think about was skipping the climbing and taking a rest day. It seemed like "Busterman" was in similar condition and so we lay there for a few minutes before we convinced ourselves to crawl out into the cold morning air. I stepped out into the darkness and couldn't see the stars. That was a
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!
Well, I missed last weeks posting so I hope all of you loyal fans (I know there must be a couple of you out there) were able to supply your own stoke for the week. But worry not, I have found a couple gems for you this time around. These two videos take place on the beautiful Grandes Jorasses near Chamonix. I'll let the videos speak for themselves but I can vouch for their awesomeness!
Sunburns in the Mountains
Over the decade that I've been guiding, I've decided that the greatest enemy to the climber is not the rain, it's not the snow and it's not the wind. Instead, it is the sun. There is nothing more relenting and nothing that will have such dire long term effects as the sun.
There was a time in my life when I went from working in the heat of the desert directly to high altitude snow. These are both places where the sun is far more dangerous than in a city. And while I'm not aware of any reports of a higher incidence of skin cancer among climbers, it wouldn't surprise me if this were the case.
The most common places for climbers to get burned are on the tops of the ears, the tip of the nose and on the lips. High altitude climbers on glaciers will also see burns develop on the roof of their mouths and inside their nostrils.
The Author Belaying on Mount Baker
The bandanna covers both his ears and neck.
It might seem obvious, but it is incredibly important to wear sunscreen and cover as much skin as possible when you are in bright sunlight. Over the years I've had a few people on glaciers who decided that they "tan well" and elected not to wear sunscreen. In each of these cases, the climbers contracted serious burns that were so bad, they actually scabbed up.
Whether in the desert or at high altitude one must apply sunscreen and then reapply it often.
Many climbers on big mountains will wear a Buff to cover their faces or will carry multiple bandannas to pin around their faces and necks "Al Qaeda" style. Most will wear sunglasses with a nose beak. And many will apply sunscreen inside the nostrils.
Sunshirt
These hiking oriented shirts can be found at most outdoor stores.
Following is a quick breakdown of how to treat a sunburn from the Sunburn Resource:
--Jason D. Martin
There was a time in my life when I went from working in the heat of the desert directly to high altitude snow. These are both places where the sun is far more dangerous than in a city. And while I'm not aware of any reports of a higher incidence of skin cancer among climbers, it wouldn't surprise me if this were the case.
The most common places for climbers to get burned are on the tops of the ears, the tip of the nose and on the lips. High altitude climbers on glaciers will also see burns develop on the roof of their mouths and inside their nostrils.
The Author Belaying on Mount BakerThe bandanna covers both his ears and neck.
It might seem obvious, but it is incredibly important to wear sunscreen and cover as much skin as possible when you are in bright sunlight. Over the years I've had a few people on glaciers who decided that they "tan well" and elected not to wear sunscreen. In each of these cases, the climbers contracted serious burns that were so bad, they actually scabbed up.
Whether in the desert or at high altitude one must apply sunscreen and then reapply it often.
Many climbers on big mountains will wear a Buff to cover their faces or will carry multiple bandannas to pin around their faces and necks "Al Qaeda" style. Most will wear sunglasses with a nose beak. And many will apply sunscreen inside the nostrils.
In the desert, some will wear a bandana under their helmets and over their ears and neck. Sunshirts and shirts with collars are also popular. Sunshirts are designed to reflect most of the sunlight away while providing good coverage. Shirts with collars provide a little extra shade for the neck.
SunshirtThese hiking oriented shirts can be found at most outdoor stores.
Following is a quick breakdown of how to treat a sunburn from the Sunburn Resource:
Following is a short video on sunburn treatment:1. When treating sunburn, it is very important to prevent further damage or irritation. To prevent sunburned skin from getting worse, keep from further direct exposure to the sun, and stay indoors as much as possible.
2. Closely observe the affected areas for blisters. When blisters are present, this means that the skin has been severely damaged, and complications are highly probable. Don’t try to break them, or you’ll increase the risk of infection. If blisters are present on a large area of the skin, get to a hospital’s emergency room immediately. Other instances that warrant medical attention right away are when severe swelling causes breathing difficulty, when pain on the affected area is terrible, and when serious swelling occurs around the limbs such that it threatens to constrict blood flow and cause hands or feet to go numb or turn bluish. Too much sun exposure can also cause other related ailments, such as sun poison or heat stroke. When any of these are suspected or when high fever is detected, consult a doctor immediately.
3. Take pain relievers to help ease the pain and swelling. Aspirin and ibuprofen are examples of oral medications commonly taken to minimize these sunburn symptoms, but do avoid giving aspirin to a child or teenager. Also, consult a doctor before taking any pain killer if you’re also taking prescribed medication.
4. Drink lots of water. This will help you regain lost fluids in your body, as well as aid your system in its recovery from sunburn. Fresh fruit juice, such as watermelon, is also a good alternative. Avoid alcoholic and caffeinated beverages, as these may cause further dehydration.
5. Regularly apply a cool, soothing cream or aloe lotion to the affected area to keep it moist. Aloe extract has powerful healing properties, and is most effective in its pure form. Vitamin enriched lotions and moisturizers may also help speed healing. When treating moderate to severe burns, 1% hydrocortisone cream may also be used. Avoid using butter, oil, and strong ointments on burned skin, as these will only irritate and worsen sunburn symptoms.
On mountains like Denali, climbers must completely cover their skin.
6. Shower with cool water whenever possible. This should help ease the pain and discomfort on your skin until it begins to heal. Use very mild soap, and refrain from using abrasive personal skin products, such as exfoliating skin formulas and body scrubs to avoid irritation.
7. Wear loose-fitting clothes made of natural fibers, such as cotton or silk, as sunburned skin tends to be extremely sensitive, and harsher fabrics will do more harm than good. When heading outdoors, wear long sleeved shirts and long pants that cover the affected areas.
8. Leave peeling skin alone. When your skin starts peeling, try your very best not to scratch, scrub or strip the dry skin off. The layer of skin underneath the peeling is still very sensitive, and will only lead to further skin damage when forcibly exposed. Just continue using moisturizer to help relieve itching and dryness.
--Jason D. Martin
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- October 29, 2009
Northwest:
--Northwest climber and guide Paul Bailey was recently injured in a climbing accident in Australia. It appears that Bailey took a leader-fall, broke both wrists and suffered some head injuries. The most current information on this accident indicates that this incident may have been due to bolt failure. To read more about the accident, click here and here.
--A Bend woman on a hike to summit the South and Middle Sisters in Oregon became lost after nightfall Saturday, prompting an all-night search on foot, by horseback and by air. She turned up Sunday morning, having walked some 25 miles - cold, hungry and tired, but otherwise alright, authorities said. To read more, click here and here.
--Two members of Congress from Washington State have introduced a bill that would make permanent the 2001 Roadless Areas rule that has been tied up in legal wrangling since 2001. Sen. Maria Cantwell (D-WA) and Rep. Jay Inslee (D-WA) introduced the legislation that would ban almost all road construction on 58 million acres of roadless national forests. The House bill has 152 co-sponsors while the Senate bill has 25 co-sponsors. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--Even as the severe winds and cold hit the Eastern Sierra, a 73 year old man from the state of Washington went missing. The man reportedly planned to climb Mt. Whitney in a day trip on Sunday. Family reported that he did not return. Tuesday morning, members of the Inyo Search and Rescue Team gathered to go look for the man. To read more, click here.
--Several Ranger districts in the Eastern Sierra have scheduled prescribed burns during the upcoming fall and winter months to reduce hazardous fuel buildup and to improve the condition of wild habitats. The Sierra Journal has inquired about the impacts of these fires to local climbing areas. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--A 19-year-old folk singer from Toronto has died after being attacked by two coyotes in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Taylor Mitchell died overnight at the QEII Health Sciences Centre in Halifax. Mitchell was hiking on the Skyline Trail when she was attacked Tuesday afternoon. She was taken to the hospital in Cheticamp, then airlifted to Halifax in critical condition. To read more, click here.
--Gunks rock climbing enthusiasts asked the New York state Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation Thursday to extend climbing to a larger section of cliff face under the Minnewaska State Park Preserve master plan. To read more, click here and for an Access Fund action alert on this subject, click here.
--Climbing magazine posted a great article written by an amputee on techniques for adaptive climbing. To read the article, click here.
--Nature reporter Anjali Nayar hiked for 21 days in Northern Bhutan to find out how this tiny Himalayan nation is dealing with rapidly melting glaciers. Watch the audio slideshow of the trip below:
--Northwest climber and guide Paul Bailey was recently injured in a climbing accident in Australia. It appears that Bailey took a leader-fall, broke both wrists and suffered some head injuries. The most current information on this accident indicates that this incident may have been due to bolt failure. To read more about the accident, click here and here.
--A Bend woman on a hike to summit the South and Middle Sisters in Oregon became lost after nightfall Saturday, prompting an all-night search on foot, by horseback and by air. She turned up Sunday morning, having walked some 25 miles - cold, hungry and tired, but otherwise alright, authorities said. To read more, click here and here.
--Two members of Congress from Washington State have introduced a bill that would make permanent the 2001 Roadless Areas rule that has been tied up in legal wrangling since 2001. Sen. Maria Cantwell (D-WA) and Rep. Jay Inslee (D-WA) introduced the legislation that would ban almost all road construction on 58 million acres of roadless national forests. The House bill has 152 co-sponsors while the Senate bill has 25 co-sponsors. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--Even as the severe winds and cold hit the Eastern Sierra, a 73 year old man from the state of Washington went missing. The man reportedly planned to climb Mt. Whitney in a day trip on Sunday. Family reported that he did not return. Tuesday morning, members of the Inyo Search and Rescue Team gathered to go look for the man. To read more, click here.
--Several Ranger districts in the Eastern Sierra have scheduled prescribed burns during the upcoming fall and winter months to reduce hazardous fuel buildup and to improve the condition of wild habitats. The Sierra Journal has inquired about the impacts of these fires to local climbing areas. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--A 19-year-old folk singer from Toronto has died after being attacked by two coyotes in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Taylor Mitchell died overnight at the QEII Health Sciences Centre in Halifax. Mitchell was hiking on the Skyline Trail when she was attacked Tuesday afternoon. She was taken to the hospital in Cheticamp, then airlifted to Halifax in critical condition. To read more, click here.
--Gunks rock climbing enthusiasts asked the New York state Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation Thursday to extend climbing to a larger section of cliff face under the Minnewaska State Park Preserve master plan. To read more, click here and for an Access Fund action alert on this subject, click here.
--Climbing magazine posted a great article written by an amputee on techniques for adaptive climbing. To read the article, click here.
--Nature reporter Anjali Nayar hiked for 21 days in Northern Bhutan to find out how this tiny Himalayan nation is dealing with rapidly melting glaciers. Watch the audio slideshow of the trip below:
Conditions Report -- October 28, 2009
RED ROCK CANYON:
--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.
Above the chimneys on Epinephrine. Photo courtesy of Nate Tack
--Nate Tack and friends recently had a minor send-fest around the Canyon. They climbed some classic routes and found what looked to be fantastic climbing conditions. To read the complete report click here.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.
JOSHUA TREE:
--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
--"Visit Mt. Rainier" reported that Paradise, near Mt. Rainier, has been hit with almost a foot of snow in the last 24 hours!
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.
SIERRA:
--Two popular routes through Yosemite have been closed for the second time this month due to snow and icy weather. Tioga Road and Glacier Point Road are both closed and park officials are currently evaluating whether or not to open them again this season.
--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
ALASKA RANGE:
--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
Mount Baker Skills Weekend
Here are some photos from a three day Mt. Baker skills weekend from a month ago. It was a late season trip to Mt. Baker and turned out to have some amazing weather.
Ice climbing.
--Alasdair Turner, AAI Instructor and Guide
A fattened Marmot ready for winter.
White Tailed Ptarmigan starting to change color for the coming snows.
Kate and her cup of coffee.
Setting up the rope for glacier travel.
Kate and the blue sky. It is not this blue very often in Washington.
Smiles all around.
A desperate skier makes for a good photo, but what must have been some pretty crappy turns.
The clearest day I have ever seen on Mt. Baker.
Using our new skills to negotiate the glacier.
More crevasses.
Liz
Kate
Sunset on Mt. Baker.
Ice climbing.
Ice Climbing
--Alasdair Turner, AAI Instructor and Guide
Climbers are Funny!
Mountain Guide Jokes:
What do you call a mountain guide without a girlfriend?
Homeless.
How do you get ten mountain guides into a closet?
Tell them they can live there.
How do you get them back out again?
Tell them that they have to pay rent.
How do you know the mountain guide at the party?
Don't worry, he'll tell you.
Other Funny Climbing Related Things:
You might be a Mountain Climber if...
1. You own a $75 dress suit and a $1000 Gore-Tex suit.
2. You have ever frozen your lips to an ice screw while blowing an ice plug at your partner.
3. You have ever used an ice axe to chop weeds in the garden.
4. You have more summit pictures than wedding pictures.
5. You've ever had icicles hanging from any part of your face.
6. You've ever fallen so far that you've run out of adrenaline before you ran out of rope.
7. You say "Namaste" instead of "Hello."
8. You like the smell of burning yak dung.
9. What you call cold is not on the thermometer scale.
10. When you hear the words "nose," "captain," or "aid," your hands start hurting and swelling.
11. You arrive at a climbing gym with stoppers and cams still in your bag.
12. You hear the name "Hillary" and think about Everest instead of the Secretary of State.
13. And finally, you understood all the previous lines. If you laughed at any of these lame lines, then you should definitely get back to work.
--Most people get to the top of a climb and pose for a photo. This is a great piece on the many many different photogenic and not-so-photogenic poses of climbers after they've summitted.
--Some people write some really dumb comments on the Forest Service Comment cards. To read some of these, click here. My favorite is, "a small deer came into camp and stole a bag of pickles. Is there any way I can get reimbursed?"
--Jason D. Martin
What do you call a mountain guide without a girlfriend?
Homeless.
How do you get ten mountain guides into a closet?
Tell them they can live there.
How do you get them back out again?
Tell them that they have to pay rent.
How do you know the mountain guide at the party?
Don't worry, he'll tell you.
Other Funny Climbing Related Things:
You might be a Mountain Climber if...
1. You own a $75 dress suit and a $1000 Gore-Tex suit.
2. You have ever frozen your lips to an ice screw while blowing an ice plug at your partner.
3. You have ever used an ice axe to chop weeds in the garden.
4. You have more summit pictures than wedding pictures.
5. You've ever had icicles hanging from any part of your face.
6. You've ever fallen so far that you've run out of adrenaline before you ran out of rope.
7. You say "Namaste" instead of "Hello."
8. You like the smell of burning yak dung.
9. What you call cold is not on the thermometer scale.
10. When you hear the words "nose," "captain," or "aid," your hands start hurting and swelling.
11. You arrive at a climbing gym with stoppers and cams still in your bag.
12. You hear the name "Hillary" and think about Everest instead of the Secretary of State.
13. And finally, you understood all the previous lines. If you laughed at any of these lame lines, then you should definitely get back to work.
--Most people get to the top of a climb and pose for a photo. This is a great piece on the many many different photogenic and not-so-photogenic poses of climbers after they've summitted.
--Some people write some really dumb comments on the Forest Service Comment cards. To read some of these, click here. My favorite is, "a small deer came into camp and stole a bag of pickles. Is there any way I can get reimbursed?"
--Jason D. Martin
Celebration
DISCLAIMER: If you are only interested in my climbing exploits, read no further.
Tonight I had a celebration dinner for my ascent of Cheating Reality. I'm mainly writing this post to give props to my super good friend Noah because he hooked me up with an amazing bottle of wine as a celebration gift. This bottle, Caymus 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, is currently one of his favorites... and now is one of mine. Thanks Noah.
Noah Kaufman
Inspired by this good wine, I wanted to cook a meal that was worthy to be shared with the wine. If you don't know already, cooking is one of my hobbies. I decided to do Filet Mignon stuffed with a wild mushroom pate drizzled with a red wine reduction. I served brocollini on the side to give a freshness to balance the meal. All told it came out great. The wine was phenomenal --- extremely chewy with strong berry tastes mixed with mocha at the front, powerful tangy tannins in the middle and a smooth long lasting finish. Really enjoyable! The meat was local Colorado beef and was amazing. My best bit came late in the dish when I was hit with the acidity of the reduction quickly followed by the rich creamyness of the pate and then the full flavor and texture of the beef. A great meal to celebrate a great climb. Below are two photos of the meal.
Hope you don't mind the non-climbing / personal post.
-Matt
Tonight I had a celebration dinner for my ascent of Cheating Reality. I'm mainly writing this post to give props to my super good friend Noah because he hooked me up with an amazing bottle of wine as a celebration gift. This bottle, Caymus 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, is currently one of his favorites... and now is one of mine. Thanks Noah.
Noah Kaufman
Inspired by this good wine, I wanted to cook a meal that was worthy to be shared with the wine. If you don't know already, cooking is one of my hobbies. I decided to do Filet Mignon stuffed with a wild mushroom pate drizzled with a red wine reduction. I served brocollini on the side to give a freshness to balance the meal. All told it came out great. The wine was phenomenal --- extremely chewy with strong berry tastes mixed with mocha at the front, powerful tangy tannins in the middle and a smooth long lasting finish. Really enjoyable! The meat was local Colorado beef and was amazing. My best bit came late in the dish when I was hit with the acidity of the reduction quickly followed by the rich creamyness of the pate and then the full flavor and texture of the beef. A great meal to celebrate a great climb. Below are two photos of the meal.
Hope you don't mind the non-climbing / personal post.
-Matt
October and November Climbing Events
--October 22-24 -- Golden, CO -- Mountainfilm on Tour
--October 23-25 -- Joshua Tree, CA --Climb Smart 2009
--October 24 -- Seattle, WA --Northwest Snow & Avalanche Summit 2009
--October 24 -- Chapel Hill, NC --2009 Reel Rock Film Tour
--October 24 -- North Conway, NH --New England Annual Fall BBQ
--October 24 -- Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area, NV --Make a Difference Day
--October 24 -- Grand County, Utah --Castleton Tower Stewardship Weekend
--October 24 -- Idyllwild, CA --Suicide Rock Trail Day
--October 24 -- Boulder, CO --Spot Gym Psychedelia Competition
--October 25 -- Indian Cove, Joshua Tree, CA --Climb Smart
--October 26 -- Golden, CO --Celebrate Eldo: Ace And AAC Book Release Party
--October 30 -- Easton, PA --Halloween Hang
--October 31 -- New Haven, CT --Monster Brawl
--October 30 -- Telluride, CO --Telleride Mountain Film on Tour
--October 31 -- Phoenix, AZ --North McDowell Mountain Climbers Path Trail Building
--October 31 -- New Haven, CT --Monster Brawl
--November 4 -- Golden, CO --Sean Swarner, Cancer Climber: Marmot Speaker Series Hosted By The American Alpine Club
--November 7 -- Bishop, CA --AAC Fall Highball, Doug Robinson show
--November 7 -- Bellingham, WA --Alpine Safety Awareness Program Dinner & Fundraiser
--November 7 -- Brooklyn, ME --Caliente! A Night of Salsa Dancing to Benefit Kismet Rock Foundation
--November 8 -- Athens, GA --UGA Boulder Bash '09
--November 12-14 -- Boulder, CO --Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival
--November 14 -- Fargo, ND --NDSU Fall Crawl
--November 14 -- Obed National Park Wild & Scenic River, TN --Lilly Boulder Competition
--November 14 -- Boulder, CO --Adventure Film Festival
--November 14 -- New York City, New York --Thirtieth Annual New York Section Black Tie Dinner
--November 14 -- Wake Forest, NC --Fifth Annual AAC Eastern NC Get Together
--November 15 -- Seattle, wA --CC.com SausageFest'09 Slide Show
--November 21 -- Nacogdoches, TX --3rd Annual East Texas Climbing Competition
--November 21 -- Seattle, WA --Seattle Bouldering Challenge
--November 22 -- Baltimore, MD --Loyola University Maryland ClimbMax Climbing Competition 2009
--October 23-25 -- Joshua Tree, CA --Climb Smart 2009
--October 24 -- Seattle, WA --Northwest Snow & Avalanche Summit 2009
--October 24 -- Chapel Hill, NC --2009 Reel Rock Film Tour
--October 24 -- North Conway, NH --New England Annual Fall BBQ
--October 24 -- Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area, NV --Make a Difference Day
--October 24 -- Grand County, Utah --Castleton Tower Stewardship Weekend
--October 24 -- Idyllwild, CA --Suicide Rock Trail Day
--October 24 -- Boulder, CO --Spot Gym Psychedelia Competition
--October 25 -- Indian Cove, Joshua Tree, CA --Climb Smart
--October 26 -- Golden, CO --Celebrate Eldo: Ace And AAC Book Release Party
--October 30 -- Easton, PA --Halloween Hang
--October 31 -- New Haven, CT --Monster Brawl
--October 30 -- Telluride, CO --Telleride Mountain Film on Tour
--October 31 -- Phoenix, AZ --North McDowell Mountain Climbers Path Trail Building
--October 31 -- New Haven, CT --Monster Brawl
--November 4 -- Golden, CO --Sean Swarner, Cancer Climber: Marmot Speaker Series Hosted By The American Alpine Club
--November 7 -- Bishop, CA --AAC Fall Highball, Doug Robinson show
--November 7 -- Bellingham, WA --Alpine Safety Awareness Program Dinner & Fundraiser
--November 7 -- Brooklyn, ME --Caliente! A Night of Salsa Dancing to Benefit Kismet Rock Foundation
--November 8 -- Athens, GA --UGA Boulder Bash '09
--November 12-14 -- Boulder, CO --Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival
--November 14 -- Fargo, ND --NDSU Fall Crawl
--November 14 -- Obed National Park Wild & Scenic River, TN --Lilly Boulder Competition
--November 14 -- Boulder, CO --Adventure Film Festival
--November 14 -- New York City, New York --Thirtieth Annual New York Section Black Tie Dinner
--November 14 -- Wake Forest, NC --Fifth Annual AAC Eastern NC Get Together
--November 15 -- Seattle, wA --CC.com SausageFest'09 Slide Show
--November 21 -- Nacogdoches, TX --3rd Annual East Texas Climbing Competition
--November 21 -- Seattle, WA --Seattle Bouldering Challenge
--November 22 -- Baltimore, MD --Loyola University Maryland ClimbMax Climbing Competition 2009
Diamox - The Wonder Drug?
Diamox is the trade name for a drug called Acetazolamide. This is a "altitude wonder drug" that many people take to increase the speed of their acclimatization. It is also a drug that some people put a little too much hope into instead of acclimitizing properly.
The reality is that Diamox is not a wonder drug. It is is a carbonic anhydrase inhibitor that is commonly used to treat glaucoma, epilepsy, hypertension, cystinuria, dural ectasia and of course, altitude sickness. The drug is designed to help your body make the chemical changes that it needs to make in order to function better at altitude.
We get a lot of questions about this drug from people who are getting ready to go on expeditions. But we also get them from people who are going to go on relatively low-altitude climbs.
Those who are climbing peaks that are less than 14,000 feet tall really shouldn't worry about any type of specialized drug to acclimatize. They should just take their time. Those who are climbing peaks that are between 14,000 and 16,000 feet should only take the drug if they've had problems in the past. And those climbing peaks that are 16,000 feet tall or more, should really see how their body reacts before filling it full of drugs.
The reason that we advise caution with this drug is that it has side-effects that can be difficult to deal with. Diamox is a diuretic. It causes you to urinate frequently. This, of course, can lead to dehydration, which is a contributing factor to altitude sickness. It can also cause a very unusual sensation in the fingers and toes. It feels like they have fallen asleep. This could be confusing or even scary in extremely cold environments.
Diamox - A Prophylactic?
Some climbers choose to take Diamox prophylactically, starting a few days before going to altitude. A percentage of climbers respond well to this, especially if they take between 125 milligrams (mg) to 500 mg per day before ascending rapidly to 10,000 feet or more.
What is rapidly? This is generally a fast one to two day ascent from sea level. Examples of rapid ascents might include Mount Rainier or Mount Whitney in two days...
Those who have a history of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) are urged to take Diamox prophylactically especially with plans for a rapid ascent or plans to ascend 2000 feet or more per day after reaching 10,000 feet.
Diamox forces the kidneys to excrete bicarbonate, the conjugate base of carbonic acid. The more bicarbonate excreted, the more acidic the blood gets. The more acidic the blood gets, the more that ventilation is stimulated. This will ultimately result in more oxygen in the blood.
Clearly the changes in the blood take time. It takes time for the body to catch up to your altitude. As such, Diamox cannot be seen as an immediate fix for AMS. If the symptoms are bad, then climbers are urged to immediately descend before the AMS devolves into a life-threatening cerebral or pulmonary edema.
Diamox is a prescription drug. And it is extremely important that you get proper medical advice before self-medicating with any such drug. If you are on an expedition with a guide, it is also important to tell your guide whenever you take any drugs.
High altitude climbing is an awesome experience. Diamox is merely one tool that will help you to get up high. Another, and perhaps far more important tool, is to use good sense, good judgment and to acclimitize properly.
--Jason D. Martin
The reality is that Diamox is not a wonder drug. It is is a carbonic anhydrase inhibitor that is commonly used to treat glaucoma, epilepsy, hypertension, cystinuria, dural ectasia and of course, altitude sickness. The drug is designed to help your body make the chemical changes that it needs to make in order to function better at altitude.
We get a lot of questions about this drug from people who are getting ready to go on expeditions. But we also get them from people who are going to go on relatively low-altitude climbs.
Those who are climbing peaks that are less than 14,000 feet tall really shouldn't worry about any type of specialized drug to acclimatize. They should just take their time. Those who are climbing peaks that are between 14,000 and 16,000 feet should only take the drug if they've had problems in the past. And those climbing peaks that are 16,000 feet tall or more, should really see how their body reacts before filling it full of drugs.
The reason that we advise caution with this drug is that it has side-effects that can be difficult to deal with. Diamox is a diuretic. It causes you to urinate frequently. This, of course, can lead to dehydration, which is a contributing factor to altitude sickness. It can also cause a very unusual sensation in the fingers and toes. It feels like they have fallen asleep. This could be confusing or even scary in extremely cold environments.
Diamox - A Prophylactic?
Some climbers choose to take Diamox prophylactically, starting a few days before going to altitude. A percentage of climbers respond well to this, especially if they take between 125 milligrams (mg) to 500 mg per day before ascending rapidly to 10,000 feet or more.
What is rapidly? This is generally a fast one to two day ascent from sea level. Examples of rapid ascents might include Mount Rainier or Mount Whitney in two days...
Those who have a history of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) are urged to take Diamox prophylactically especially with plans for a rapid ascent or plans to ascend 2000 feet or more per day after reaching 10,000 feet.
Diamox forces the kidneys to excrete bicarbonate, the conjugate base of carbonic acid. The more bicarbonate excreted, the more acidic the blood gets. The more acidic the blood gets, the more that ventilation is stimulated. This will ultimately result in more oxygen in the blood.
Clearly the changes in the blood take time. It takes time for the body to catch up to your altitude. As such, Diamox cannot be seen as an immediate fix for AMS. If the symptoms are bad, then climbers are urged to immediately descend before the AMS devolves into a life-threatening cerebral or pulmonary edema.
When to Take Diamox
Many guides argue that the best time to take a drug like Diamox is right before bed. As I know that I don't tend to breathe as deeply at night as during the day, I will usually take Diamox before I go to bed when I'm at high camps on high altitude peaks.
On the one hand an evening dose of the drug may help you acclimatize better up high at night. It may also keep you from getting sick at night. But on the other, you are unlikely to sleep well due to the whole, "I have to pee every five minutes" thing.
Others feel that the morning is better because it doesn't interrupt your sleep.
Alternatives
There has been a lot of research over the last few years that indicate that Ginkgo Biloba may work extremely well in acclimatization. As this is easily attainable at health food stores and has few side effects in healthy people, it may be a much better alternative to Diamox.
On the other hand, those taking anticoagulants such as ibuprofen, aspirin, warfarin, or antidepressants should be wary of potentially dangerous side effects.
Altitude Research
Understanding altitude and its effects on the body is an extremely broad topic. This blog has only touched on the bare surface of the subject and indeed, only on the bare surface of the uses of Diamox. Those interested in learning more should check out Going Higher: Oxygen, Man and Mountains by Charles Houston or Altitude Illness: Prevention and Treatment by Stephen Bezruchka.
A Final Note
Diamox is a prescription drug. And it is extremely important that you get proper medical advice before self-medicating with any such drug. If you are on an expedition with a guide, it is also important to tell your guide whenever you take any drugs.
High altitude climbing is an awesome experience. Diamox is merely one tool that will help you to get up high. Another, and perhaps far more important tool, is to use good sense, good judgment and to acclimitize properly.
--Jason D. Martin
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- October 22, 2009
Northwest:
--Preliminary autopsy findings in the death of a Portland teen at a Central Oregon wilderness camp may lead to criminal charges for staff members. Sergey Blashchishen, a 16-year-old Portland boy, died hiking in Central Oregon late last summer. According to his mother, Sergey was at the Sage Walk Wilderness Camp to "get his life back on track after dropping out of school." To read more, click here.
--Four unprepared hikers were safely escorted off the Pacific Crest Trail early on Monday morning after becoming lost, Kittitas County sheriff’s officials said. The King County Sheriff’s Office received the first report that the group was in distress and relayed the information to Kittitas County about 8 p.m. Sunday, Undersheriff Clay Myers said. The group was stranded on the trail in the area of Mirror Lake, in the western area of Kittitas County just east of the King County border, Myers said. To read more, click here.
A Climber on the Stellar Backbone Ridge (IV, 5.9) on Dragontail Peak
The Enchantment Area may soon go well beyond peaks like Dragontail to include Mount Stuart and Ingalls Peak.
--The USFS is currently to expand the Enchantment permit area to include the Ingalls Lake, Headlight Basin, and Mt. Stuart areas. The soonest this could be implemented would be 2010. These areas sustain high use levels, in excess of what the fragile subalpine plant communities can support. A NEPA (legal) decision was made in 1993 to limit entry to these areas, but we have stalled implementing this decision for a variety of reasons. If implemented, the Cle Elum Ranger Station would likely assist us with issuing daily permits and serving as a venue for hikers to pick up their permits. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--After enjoying an early opener, Mammoth Mountain Ski Area has closed. Mammoth Mountain opened last Friday with a day of free skiing and snowboarding, and remained open for the weekend. However, Mammoth issued a press release Sunday afternoon stating the mountain would be closed starting Monday. To read more, click here.
--Park Officials say that the three backpackers missing in Kings Canyon National Park have been found alive. The three men from Southern California were due back from a 65 mile backpack trip in Sierra on Monday but did not return. A search effort started, soon after but recent storm hampered the search effort. To read more, click here.
--The wet and wild storm that blew through the Eastern Sierra last week, unexpectedly opened the ski area for a few days, but also ended up stranding two backpackers in the local mountains. Mono Sheriff Officials report that Search and Rescue Team was called out on Friday October 16, for a report of two backpackers stranded in Red’s Meadow. The two men from Louis, California, 36-year-old Kevin Garbi and 46-year-old Randall Dennis had started their trip at Lake Mary, but had been stuck out when the storm hit. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--Friends dubbed him “Super Dan.” Pilot Daniel McGregor, 35, lived up to that nickname Friday when he crawled out of the fiery wreckage of his crashed airplane and walked 20 miles through the wilderness of Denali National Park to reach help. The crash, on a mountainside near the Toklat River, about seven miles from the park road, claimed the life of wolf biologist Gordon Haber. Initial reports stated McGregor also died in the crash. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--It's been a tough Fall in the Himalaya. Italian climber and mountain guide Roby Piantoni, 32, fell to his death on Shishapangma (26,289') in Tibet. The climber fell over a thousand feet during a summit push early in the morning on Wednesday. To read more, click here.
--Spain's Edurne Pasaban said Wednesday she has abandoned a bid to climb the Shishapangma mountain, throwing into doubt her attempt to become the first woman to scale all 14 of the world's peaks above 8,000 metres (26,240 feet). She had planned to climb the 8,046-metre Shisha Pangma this year, her 13th 'eight-thousander', and then Annapurna in Nepal in the spring of 2010. To read more, click here.
--Edyrne's Pasaban's main rival was also shut down. Mountaineer Oh Eun-sun burst into tears before a llama’s altar after delaying her plan to scale the Himalayan peak of Annapurna due to bad weather. She seeks to become the first woman to conquer the world’s 14 highest peaks. After giving thanks for her safe descent and pledging to return next year, she expressed frustration but said she has no regrets. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--Authorities in central Pennsylvania say a missing hiker was found alive along a trail but died before he could be carried to safety. Authorities said 64-year-old David Bone of Mechanicsburg went hiking Tuesday in Bald Eagle State Forest in western Synder County. When he did not return, about 50 people began searching that night in temperatures close to freezing. To read more, click here.
--Prolific desert climber, Kyle Copeland, 50, died in Salt Lake City on October 3 after a twenty-year battle with Crohn's Disease. Copeland was responsible for dozens of first ascents in places like Boulder Canyon, Eldorado Canyon, Longs Peak, South Platte, Nevada's Wild Granites, Arches National Park, Zion National Park and the greater Moab, Utah area. To read more, click here and here.
--David Leon Waggoner, owner and manager of Colorado Custom Hardware of Laramie, died peacefully on the evening of Oct. 7, 2009, at his home in Laramie after a brief illness. He was 53 years old. Waggoner is best known as the innovator who invented the Alien camming device. To read more, click here.
--A group of climbers has been criticised after they abandoned a wheelchair-bound friend halfway up Mount Snowdon. Six martial arts experts were on a sponsored charity climb up the peak in North Wales, carrying the man in his wheelchair. But before they reached the summit they found it too difficult to keep carrying him and decided to carry on up the mountain without the 31-year-old man, leaving him sitting alone on the path. By the time they came back down for him they were too tired to resume the wheelchair lift and had to call out rescuers. He was helped to safety by a mountain rescue team and was found to be suffering from mild exposure. To read more, click here.
--A one-handed Scots action hero who scales the world's most daring climbs without safety ropes is to star in a film. Despite been born with most of his left hand missing, daredevil Kevin Shields has made an extraordinary series of impressive and bold ascents. Single-Handed, by director Paul Diffley, follows Kevin on terrifying solo climbs. Kevin, 30, from Fort William, Inverness-shire, only has a thumb on his left hand. To read more, click here.
--The ripest recipe for trouble in a national park? Young men hiking on a weekend who make a bad decision or two and end up hurt, exhausted or lost. On average, 11 search-and-rescue operations are launched in national parks every day. While expenses average around $900, the price can easily jump into the thousands of dollars, according to a new analysis of search-and-rescue operations over 15 years. Travis Heggie, an assistant professor at the University of North Dakota who headed up the study, also found that roughly 20 percent of the people who called for help likely would have died if they had not been rescued. To read more, click here.
--Alain Robert, the French “Spiderman,” recently found a perfect crack system on the 499 foot Tour Ariana, a defense building in Paris, France. Obviously, the cops were waiting at the top for him again. To read more, click here.
--Scott Semple asks, is climbing sponsorship a sin? And he makes a pretty strong argument that it is here. To read what the climbing community thinks about this, click here.
Redpoint Autobelay Device
--Climbing wall owners and operators of climbing towers are being warned to stop using a belay device. The Redpoint and Auto-Belay descenders allow a controlled lower without a belayer operating the rope from the ground. But two climbers have been injured recently when the Redpoint device allowed a rapid descent. To read more, click here.
--Preliminary autopsy findings in the death of a Portland teen at a Central Oregon wilderness camp may lead to criminal charges for staff members. Sergey Blashchishen, a 16-year-old Portland boy, died hiking in Central Oregon late last summer. According to his mother, Sergey was at the Sage Walk Wilderness Camp to "get his life back on track after dropping out of school." To read more, click here.
--Four unprepared hikers were safely escorted off the Pacific Crest Trail early on Monday morning after becoming lost, Kittitas County sheriff’s officials said. The King County Sheriff’s Office received the first report that the group was in distress and relayed the information to Kittitas County about 8 p.m. Sunday, Undersheriff Clay Myers said. The group was stranded on the trail in the area of Mirror Lake, in the western area of Kittitas County just east of the King County border, Myers said. To read more, click here.
A Climber on the Stellar Backbone Ridge (IV, 5.9) on Dragontail PeakThe Enchantment Area may soon go well beyond peaks like Dragontail to include Mount Stuart and Ingalls Peak.
--The USFS is currently to expand the Enchantment permit area to include the Ingalls Lake, Headlight Basin, and Mt. Stuart areas. The soonest this could be implemented would be 2010. These areas sustain high use levels, in excess of what the fragile subalpine plant communities can support. A NEPA (legal) decision was made in 1993 to limit entry to these areas, but we have stalled implementing this decision for a variety of reasons. If implemented, the Cle Elum Ranger Station would likely assist us with issuing daily permits and serving as a venue for hikers to pick up their permits. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--After enjoying an early opener, Mammoth Mountain Ski Area has closed. Mammoth Mountain opened last Friday with a day of free skiing and snowboarding, and remained open for the weekend. However, Mammoth issued a press release Sunday afternoon stating the mountain would be closed starting Monday. To read more, click here.
--Park Officials say that the three backpackers missing in Kings Canyon National Park have been found alive. The three men from Southern California were due back from a 65 mile backpack trip in Sierra on Monday but did not return. A search effort started, soon after but recent storm hampered the search effort. To read more, click here.
--The wet and wild storm that blew through the Eastern Sierra last week, unexpectedly opened the ski area for a few days, but also ended up stranding two backpackers in the local mountains. Mono Sheriff Officials report that Search and Rescue Team was called out on Friday October 16, for a report of two backpackers stranded in Red’s Meadow. The two men from Louis, California, 36-year-old Kevin Garbi and 46-year-old Randall Dennis had started their trip at Lake Mary, but had been stuck out when the storm hit. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--Friends dubbed him “Super Dan.” Pilot Daniel McGregor, 35, lived up to that nickname Friday when he crawled out of the fiery wreckage of his crashed airplane and walked 20 miles through the wilderness of Denali National Park to reach help. The crash, on a mountainside near the Toklat River, about seven miles from the park road, claimed the life of wolf biologist Gordon Haber. Initial reports stated McGregor also died in the crash. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--It's been a tough Fall in the Himalaya. Italian climber and mountain guide Roby Piantoni, 32, fell to his death on Shishapangma (26,289') in Tibet. The climber fell over a thousand feet during a summit push early in the morning on Wednesday. To read more, click here.
--Spain's Edurne Pasaban said Wednesday she has abandoned a bid to climb the Shishapangma mountain, throwing into doubt her attempt to become the first woman to scale all 14 of the world's peaks above 8,000 metres (26,240 feet). She had planned to climb the 8,046-metre Shisha Pangma this year, her 13th 'eight-thousander', and then Annapurna in Nepal in the spring of 2010. To read more, click here.
--Edyrne's Pasaban's main rival was also shut down. Mountaineer Oh Eun-sun burst into tears before a llama’s altar after delaying her plan to scale the Himalayan peak of Annapurna due to bad weather. She seeks to become the first woman to conquer the world’s 14 highest peaks. After giving thanks for her safe descent and pledging to return next year, she expressed frustration but said she has no regrets. To read more, click here.
--Marko Prezelj, Rok Blagus and Luka Lindic climbed three new routes in the Bhagirathi group of the Garhwal Himalaya, India. Prezelj and friends made camp in the area for the better part of a month, but climbed most of their routes late in September. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--Authorities in central Pennsylvania say a missing hiker was found alive along a trail but died before he could be carried to safety. Authorities said 64-year-old David Bone of Mechanicsburg went hiking Tuesday in Bald Eagle State Forest in western Synder County. When he did not return, about 50 people began searching that night in temperatures close to freezing. To read more, click here.
--Prolific desert climber, Kyle Copeland, 50, died in Salt Lake City on October 3 after a twenty-year battle with Crohn's Disease. Copeland was responsible for dozens of first ascents in places like Boulder Canyon, Eldorado Canyon, Longs Peak, South Platte, Nevada's Wild Granites, Arches National Park, Zion National Park and the greater Moab, Utah area. To read more, click here and here.
--David Leon Waggoner, owner and manager of Colorado Custom Hardware of Laramie, died peacefully on the evening of Oct. 7, 2009, at his home in Laramie after a brief illness. He was 53 years old. Waggoner is best known as the innovator who invented the Alien camming device. To read more, click here.
--A group of climbers has been criticised after they abandoned a wheelchair-bound friend halfway up Mount Snowdon. Six martial arts experts were on a sponsored charity climb up the peak in North Wales, carrying the man in his wheelchair. But before they reached the summit they found it too difficult to keep carrying him and decided to carry on up the mountain without the 31-year-old man, leaving him sitting alone on the path. By the time they came back down for him they were too tired to resume the wheelchair lift and had to call out rescuers. He was helped to safety by a mountain rescue team and was found to be suffering from mild exposure. To read more, click here.
--A one-handed Scots action hero who scales the world's most daring climbs without safety ropes is to star in a film. Despite been born with most of his left hand missing, daredevil Kevin Shields has made an extraordinary series of impressive and bold ascents. Single-Handed, by director Paul Diffley, follows Kevin on terrifying solo climbs. Kevin, 30, from Fort William, Inverness-shire, only has a thumb on his left hand. To read more, click here.
--The ripest recipe for trouble in a national park? Young men hiking on a weekend who make a bad decision or two and end up hurt, exhausted or lost. On average, 11 search-and-rescue operations are launched in national parks every day. While expenses average around $900, the price can easily jump into the thousands of dollars, according to a new analysis of search-and-rescue operations over 15 years. Travis Heggie, an assistant professor at the University of North Dakota who headed up the study, also found that roughly 20 percent of the people who called for help likely would have died if they had not been rescued. To read more, click here.
--Alain Robert, the French “Spiderman,” recently found a perfect crack system on the 499 foot Tour Ariana, a defense building in Paris, France. Obviously, the cops were waiting at the top for him again. To read more, click here.
--Scott Semple asks, is climbing sponsorship a sin? And he makes a pretty strong argument that it is here. To read what the climbing community thinks about this, click here.
Redpoint Autobelay Device
The Start of A Grand Adventure Day 3, the Approach From Hell
My "on again, off again" sleep pattern held true until right before my alarm went off. I looked at the watch and it was almost 5:30am. We wanted to get an early start for permits but I wanted to get an even earlier start so I could catch the sunrise on the mountains. So I crawled out of my nylon cocoon and quietly exited the cabin with camera in hand. It wasn't ridiculously cold but I was just
Conditions Report -- October 21, 2009
NORTHWEST:
--Due to the warm temperatures seen in the Cascades this summer the snow which typically covers our countless glaciers has melted, exposing the glacial ice below. To read more about the hazards this presents, particularly on Mt. Rainier click here.
The Coleman Headwall at sunset. Photo by Dan Helmstedder
--Mount Baker is now in very icy late season conditions. To access the Football Field and the Black Buttes Camp on the north side of the mountain, climbers must traverse significantly right of the normal approach. Climbers on the Coleman-Deming are traversing far to the right from the top of the Pumice Ridge and are joining the Easton Glacier route on the right side of the Roman Wall. Dan Helmstedder recently went on a little scouting mission up to 10,200 ft on the Coleman-Deming. To read what conditions he found click here.
--The Easton Glacier route on the south side of Mount Baker is also quite broken up. Many crevasses currently require belayed crossings to safely surpass. There is exposed gravel in the ice on the Roman Wall.
--The Easton Glacier route on the south side of Mount Baker is also quite broken up. Many crevasses currently require belayed crossings to safely surpass. There is exposed gravel in the ice on the Roman Wall.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.
SIERRA:
--The huge storm that passed over California last week dumped some serious amounts of rain in the mountains. In Yosemite Valley they received 5.41 inches, and at the South Entrance to the park they got a whopping 10 inches! On another related note two popular routes through Yosemite have been closed for the second time this month due to snow and icy weather. Tioga Road and Glacier Point Road are both closed and park officials are currently evaluating whether or not to open them again this season.
--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.
JOSHUA TREE:
--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
ALASKA RANGE:
--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.
--Denali National Park and Preserve experienced its first significant snowfall of the season last week. Accumulation ranged from 2 inches at the Park Headquarters to almost 2 feet at the Eielson Visitor Center. The Denali Park road is still open to private vehicles to the Teklanika River Rest Area at mile 30.
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
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