NORTHWEST:
Matt Clifton tackling the first aid section of the East Buttress. Photo by Martha Stevens
--A couple parties completed the Direct East Buttress of the South Early Winter Spire recently. Both wrote detailed trip reports regarding the current conditions on the route, including a reported loose block right below the 5.9+ roof crux, at a small tree growing out of the crack. To read more about the climbs click here and here.
Valerie Wall leading up to the summit ridge of Mt. Buckner. Photo by Hayley Wall
--A party completed the North Face of Mt. Buckner recently. The climbers, who happen to be sisters as well, documented the trip well with photos and current conditions. To read more about their climb click here.
Looking out at a snow traverse on the Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Photo by John Calder
--John Calder and his partner celebrated the 4th of July by embarking on a one day attempt of the classic Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Read about their fantastic climb and the current route conditions here.
Ty Tyler on the incredible ridge climbing high on Mt. Goode. Photo by Andrew Sullivan
--It was a busy weekend in the Cascades. Everyone seemed to be celebrating Independence Day in the same way...climbing! Andrew Sullivan and his climbing partner Ty Tyler climbed the Northeast Buttress of Mt. Goode. To read an account of this ascent and the conditions in the area click here.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
Brandon Helmstedder leading the crux pitch on the N. Ridge of Mt. Baker. Photo by Tyler Lappetito
--Tyler Lappetito and his two friends, Brandon Helmstedder and Leif Whittaker, headed out on July 2nd to climb the North Ridge of Mt. Baker. Tyler wrote a great summary of their climb and posted some valuable information regarding the current conditions of the route. To read this report and check out some beautiful photos click here.
--Crews will start clearing the road to Artist Point above Mt. Baker Ski Area on Monday, July 6, according to a state Department of Transportation news release. To read more click here.
--One of our guides, Dawn Glanc, recently returned from Boston Basin. She reported numerous downed trees located in slide paths. These areas are becoming treacherous due to the melting of snow underneath and could collapse if being crossed. Use extreme caution if traveling across these areas on the trail.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.
--It appears that a pair of peregrine falcons have nested on the classic line, Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth. All routes from Outer Space, White Slabs Direct and White Fright, south to the descent gully, including Orbit, are closed to climbing until July 31st.
--We have had guides recently return from the South side of Mt. Baker. They reported that the conditions were good. Most of the crevasses are now open and easy to avoid. They are either so big that you can't miss them or small enough that you can't fall in. We also received a report that above and to the right of Survey Rock there was a major glacial release, leaving bus sized blocks of ice near the trail.
--We have recently received a couple updates regarding current Squamish conditions. Click here to read more.
--More updates from our friendly neighbors to the north with regard to the Bugaboos:
Just had my first trip of the season up to the Bugs and things are looking good. It is definitely still a bit early but there is already lots to do.
Road
The road is in descent shape and ok for a small car with a bit of navigating through ruts around KM 34. I was in a Toyota Matrix and had no problems.
Trail
The trail to the Kain hut is mostly snow free but there are a couple of significant piles of avalanche debris and a few fallen trees to negotiate along the way.
Travel Conditions
Generally, things seem a little ahead of usual. There is still lots of snow above the hut but the moraines are melting out fast. Travel on the lower elevation snow is good in the morning (with a good freeze) and becomes a bit of a slog in the PM when things warm up. Up high (above ~2800m) you can still expect up to knee deep foot penetration through a breakable crust but
this would only affect the last bit of glacier to the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is in good shape right now but there is already lots of loose rock melted out on the sides.
Routes
Most of the regular stuff is climbable with a few snow patches remaining. The low elevation routes in the Crescent area look dry as do many of the routes on the west face of Snowpatch. There will inevitably be some wet sections on most routes but they are shrinking by the day. The higher shady routes like the NE Ridge of Bugaboo and the Becky-Chouinard will likely have snow and ice in them for a little while yet.
Bears
There is a sow grizzly with two, one year old cubs hanging around Bugaboo Creek these days but there was no recent evidence of their presence on the trail.
South Howser Descent
A new descent has been established from the South Howser Tower that avoids the cornice, loose rock and rope eating flakes of the existing descent. It roughly follows the North Face-Ridge route towards the Central Howser. Stop in at the hut to see a detailed topo.
Cheers,
Marc Pich?
ACMG, IFMGA
Mountain Guide
--For information regarding wall closures due to falcon nesting in Yosemite National Park, click here.
--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--For daily dispatches from expeditions currently climbing Denali, click here.
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
--The snow is melting very fast in the Alaska Range this year. This is in part due to the ash on the glaciers from the Redoubt volcano. All of the major landing strips are melting out. Strips on the Kahiltna, the Ruth and on the Pika are all in poor shape. Access to the range will be limited in the very near future.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
