AAI Welcomes Three New Guides!

AAI’s new guide training is over. As one of the new hires, I’m happy it is done and eager to work. I'm incredibly glad that I decided to work for the Institute. I was impressed by the quality of the training offered, and came away a much more well-rounded guide.

AAI Guide Training - Class of 2009

(left to right) Alaina Robertson, Mike Powers (instructor), Kevin Hogan, Scott Massey

Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

Big smiles after a successful ascent of the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell.

Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

We spent two weeks putting our blood, sweat and tears into our training with Mike Powers, AAI’s technical director and the former AMGA technical director, who’s technical guiding skills are impossible to do justice for on paper. Our days with him started at 5am and ended at so-far-north-it’s-almost-Canada dusk.

Mike Powers teaching effective short-roping technique high on the S. Early Winter Spire.

Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

Scott and Kevin Belay Ice Climbing Students in a Crevasse
Photo by Jason Martin

There are three new faces to AAI this year, Scott Massey, Kevin Hogan, and me, Alaina Robertson. We all entered guide training with strengths in specific areas of climbing and guiding, but by the end of the three weeks spent practicing “systems” (a blanket term for “everything in the American Mountain Guiding Association’s guide manual”), we are all worthy of wearing the AAI logo.

New AAI Guide Kevin Hogan Demonstraits a Highly Useful Skill
Photo by Jason Martin

So what can you look forward to if you are lucky enough to find one of us guiding your upcoming trip?

Kevin, the alpine wonder, has put over 13,000 miles on his boots walking from Canada to Mexico three times on various North-South trails. Ask him about his band, Pahoehoe. His talents include storytelling, balancing trekking poles, and “hucking meat” (he’s a downhill mountain biker). His favorite food is teriyaki and after a trip he loves a good IPA.

Kevin and Mike psyched to make it to the summit of the South Early Winter Spire.

Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

Scott, the desert rockman and über outdoor leader, has spent nine years employed leading groups through the wilderness and is a hardcore rock climber. He’ll always be the first one up in the morning and gets everyone going. He’s the one you want to play “name that movie quote” with. His favorite food is noodles with processed cheese and he always could go for a cup of coffee.

Scott and Alaina after a successful display of numerous snow skills.

Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

You’ll have to ask the other two what my nickname is, but I’ve traveled and climbed in 14 different countries on four continents. When not climbing, I tend to be sedentary, and consider eating and organizing to be hobbies. I like food, and at the end of the day, I enjoy a good glass of Merlot.

--Alaina Robertson, AAI Guide

July and August Climbing Events

--July 3 -- Harrisburg, PA --Climb up the 50

--July 11 -- La Fayette, GA -- Rock Town Clean Up

--July 8-12 -- Lander, WY --International Climber's Festival

--July 17 -- Bellingham, WA --Aerial Tour of Mt Baker Hikes part II

--July 18 -- Castlewood Canyon, Castle Rock, CO --Summer Sandstone Series: Castlewood Canyon Bouldering Comp and Clean-Up

--July 18 -- Raleigh, NC --American Alpine Club Wilderness First Aid Course

--July 18 -- Sunnyvale, CA --ASCA Climb-a-thon at Planet Granite

--July 20 -- Reel Rock Film Competition Submission Deadline

--July 25 -- Obed/Clear Creek, GA -- Help Clean Up the Obed

CLOSE CALLS -- Recreational Area Closed to Target Shooting

AAI just received the following email from Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest:

Everett, Wa. June 29, 2009 — The Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest is closing several roads on the I-90 corridor to target shooters starting July 4th weekend. The closure area encompasses the valley bottom that follows the I-90 freeway corridor from exit 38 to the top of Snoqualmie Pass. The Tinkham and Denny Creek roads are included.

“We have a serious public safety concern,” said Snoqualmie District Ranger Jim Franzel. “If we don’t do something immediately, someone will get hurt. We are closing the smallest land area possible to prevent an injury and provide for public safety.” The target shooting closure area encompasses concentrated recreation uses with multiple roads, campgrounds, trailheads and picnic areas. Franzel said that the local geography doesn’t provide for natural target shooting backstops, so target shooters often use trees and vegetation as backstops, not realizing there may be a trailhead or people recreating within range.

Although unsafe target shooting has been a growing problem on national forest lands adjacent to I-90, recent near-misses of road repair workers and shooting across roads has elevated the concern. “Peak visitor use is during the summer and additional road repair and trail reconstruction is scheduled,” Franzel said. The closure involves a small part of the 332,000-acre Snoqualmie Ranger District.

Target shooting regulations remain unchanged everywhere else on the district. The Code of Federal Regulations prohibits discharging firearms within 150 yards of a residence, building, campsite, developed recreation site or occupied area. Violators can be fined up to $5,000 and/or imprisoned up to six months in jail. Signs are posted marking closed areas. Visitors can get a map at Snoqualmie Ranger District Office in North Bend and online at http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/condition/mbs-closure-target-shooting-i90-corridor.pdf <http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/mbs-closure-target-shooting-i90-corridor.pdf> that show where target shooting is prohibited.

This is a temporary emergency closure. The forest will consider the need for a permanent closure in one year. Franzel said that target shooting in high-use recreation areas has increased over the years, along with associated environmental damage and dumped trash. For information regarding the closure, please call 425-888-1421 x230 or visit http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/ <http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/> .

Rappelling Safety

There is no doubt that rappelling is the most dangerous thing that we regularly do in this sport. There are more climber injuries and fatalities from mistakes rappelling than from any other place in all of climbing. However, there are some things that every climber can do to make rappelling safer.

First, if it is possible to safely walk off from the top of a climb, simply walk off. Limiting the amount of time that you spend rappelling is a surefire way to limit the amount of exposure that you have to potential mistakes.

Second, climbers should always try to tie off the ends of their ropes in order to close the system. This is a simple thing to do that is often overlooked. Some climbers are afraid that their ropes will get stuck after they throw them...which is a legitimate fear. Closing the system should be a default tactic. But if there are extenuating circumstances, then perhaps the system should be intentionally left open.

People seldom think about tying knots in the end of the rope in single pitch terrain, but ironically, that's where most people accidentally rappel off of a single end of the rope. All that it takes is a minor rope offset to ruin your day. Knots in the rope will keep such a thing from being anything more than another minor element to fix.

Rappelling with a Prussik above the Device

And third, climbers should use some kind of rappel backup.

A Prussik Hitch on a Rope

There are two friction hitch backup options that are commonly used. Some people like to put a prussik hitch above their rappel device, whereas others prefer to put an autoblock hitch below the device. There are advantages and disadvantages to rappelling both ways. The biggest advantage to either of these options is that you are less likely to die if you make a mistake. The biggest disadvantage is that it takes extra time to put these things together...

Note the autoblock coming off the climber's legloop.
Most people will put their hand on the autoblock hitch while rappelling.

Rappelling with a friction hitch above the device has gone a bit out of fashion. One advantage to rappelling with a prussik hitch above is that it is easy to switch a rappel system into a rope ascending system. The prussik is already attached to the climber's belay loop, so all that he has to do is to add a second friction hitch for his feet below the first friction hitch.

Most climbers now rappel with a friction hitch (usually an autoblock hitch) below the device, attached to a leg loop. This allows both hands to hold the rope below the device which provides for more redundancy in the rappel.

An Autoblock Hitch

A friction hitch works well below the device...most of the time. It is, however, imperative that climbers who employ this technique be extremely careful. If a climber elects to hang from the rope by nothing more than his device and a friction hitch, it is possible that the hitch could be disengaged if it touches the device. Such a thing would result in catastrophic failure. This usually happens when one twists his body away from the friction hitch. If a climber needs to mess around with ropes or something else while hanging from a device and a hitch, he should definitely put a catastrophe knot in below the hitch. This will ensure that should something happen, the climber will not fall to the ground.

Rappelling is the most dangerous thing that we do. So why not create more security by trying to walk off when you can? Or by tying knots in the end of the ropes? Or by putting a friction hitch into the system? Any one of these simple techniques could save your life...

--Jason D. Martin

AAI Expedition Summits Denali

AAI guide Forest McBrian called at 1:11 pm Alaska time Sunday afternoon with the following dispatch:

“This is Forest from 17,200 on Denali. Sorry I didn’t call in yesterday, but it was a very busy day! James, Bill, Jullian, Marc, and I summited last night at 9:00pm. We had a really nice sunny day. Everyone was quite strong and made it happen. They worked together so well. There were only four other people climbing the mountain, so we really felt like we had it to ourselves. That's quite rare up here.

We’re back at 17,000 feet eating and drinking, and soon we will leave for 14,000 feet. I’ll call again when we are further down the mountain, perhaps tomorrow.

Everyone says hello to friends and family back home. The whole team is feeling great and is very pleased with what we have accomplished. It was a long trip that took a lot of patience and persistence and it really paid off.

As we mentioned before, we are planning to pass our satellite phone on to the last expedition because theirs isn't working. So we should have some news from them on their progress before too long.

Talk to you soon.”

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Welcome once again to yet another edition of Weekend Warriors - Videos to get you Stoked! This week I decided to focus on some hardcore first ascents...since there are few things more stoke worthy than heading out into the unknown and climbing something that has never been climbed before. Enjoy!

The first video features some Alaskan climbing in the Ruth Gorge. These guys put up 5 new routes in two weeks...talk about impressive!

The second video actually features the same climbers as the first video but this time they hopped on a jet plane and flew across the globe to establish a new route in the Trango Group in the Pakistani Himalayas. These guys don't mess around when it comes to hardcore climbing!

The final video actually documents a route that has been climbed before...just not with traditional gear. It showcases Matt Segal climbing "China Doll" (5.14) outside of Boulder, CO, a previously bolted line that hadn't yet seen a traditional ascent.

Cougars! (Safety Tips)

In yesterday’s blog we reported about the three-year-old girl who was attacked by a cougar in Squamish (to read that story, click here), so with this topic fresh on our minds it seems fitting to follow up with a blog on cougars.

First off here is a little general info for you. Cougars and their relatives can be found just about anywhere from the Yukon to the Southern Andes.   In the Pacific Northwest males range from 115 to 198 lbs and the females are smaller at 64 to 141 lbs.  These feisty felines will literally eat anything with meat on it from moose, elk, and horses down to insects. 

Once a large prey has been killed, the cougar will feed on the corpse for numerous days and this usually will keep them satisfied for close to two weeks until the hunger induced urge to kill rises again.  However, during the early months of a kitten’s life the mother will hunt and catch prey much more often, sometimes as much as one piece of meat every three days. 

And speaking of kittens and cougars getting it on kitty style, a male and female will meet for a brief "encounter" and then the male will disappear leaving the mother to raise the one to six kittens on her own.  As the kittens mature only one out of the liter is expected to survive to adulthood and live for the full 8 to 13 years as observed through various studies.

Now that we have been briefly acquainted with this beautiful animal, there are a few things you should know to help prevent a cougar from getting acquainted with you.  When you are out for a hike it is highly recommended that you go with a least one other person and be aware that cougars are most likely to be hunting at dawn or dusk, although they will hunt and scamper 24/7 if they feel like it.  

If you are hiking with small children, keep them close, as their high pitched voices and typical less coordinated movement seems to encourage cougars to attack.  It is also a good idea to make noise so that you don't surprise a cougar by accident. 

Most likely you will not run into a cougar while out hiking, but if you are lucky enough to spot a cougar and unlucky enough for it to become aggressive towards you, the experts advise that you should immediately pick up any children, make yourself as big as possible (stand up straight and arc your arms out to the side), pick up a large stick if any nearby, make eye contact and stare down the cougar, shout in a loud but slow and calm voice, and throw rocks in an attempt to scare it off.  These tips should help you from having a bad experience with these magnificent cats.

Below is a quick clip of a cougar attacking an elk.

Oh and one last obvious tip, if you find a cougar kitten in the wild, don't pick it up and play with it.  As with moose and bear, encounters with young and a nearby mother are not good at all.

Have fun out there!

-- Erik

Full Swing

The first couple of weeks in June of higher pressure and mild temperatures enabled many climbers to reach the summit. The climbing season has reached its full swing and it looks to be a great one.

Climbing rangers have been out again this last week on patrol. Look for new route reports on both Sunset Ridge and Little Tahoma as well as updates on the more standard routes.

June is coming to a close with weather more reminiscent of last year's June. Wind-accumulated snow drifts have been shin deep in spots. The new snow has skiers and snowboarders out again trying to get in a couple more turns.

Historically July holds some of the best weather and conditions for climbing. Hopefully this July will follow suit. See you up on the mountain...

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- June 25, 2009

Northwest:

--The Access Fund recently announced that an option agreement to purchase the 20-acre private inholding at the Lower Index Town Walls of Snohomish County, Washington has been secured. This popular climbing area boasts several hundred quality granite climbing routes and is only an hour drive from Seattle. Its proximity to a major metropolitan area and its short approach from the trailhead make this cliff line a popular after work or after school climbing destination for the Seattle-Everett area. To read more, click here.

--A three-year-old girl was out for a walk with her mom in their Squamish neighborhood at dinnertime Tuesday evening when she was attacked by a cougar. The child's father told CBC the girl thought the cougar was playing with her when it swiped at her from behind in Fisherman's Park near the Squamish River. She was in the hospital with lacerations Tuesday night but was expected to be okay. To read more, click here.

The North Side of Mount Baker Last Week
Photo by Jason Martin

--An injured climber was rescued Sunday afternoon from Mount Baker after falling 150 feet. The Whatcom County Sheriff's Office received a report of the injured climber at about 1:42 pm. Kenneth Capron, 56, of Spanaway, had fallen while descending the Railroad Grade -- a portion of the trail that follows the crest of a steep moraine. The climber was in and out of consciousness with head injuries until he was helicoptered off the mountain. To read more, click here.

--Mark Albrecht, a 22-year old hiker from Everett, went missing late last week. It appears that the young man missed a switchback in the fog while descending from Sahale Mountain near Cascade Pass. Once Albrecht realized he was lost, he pitched his tent and waited for the weather to clear. The decision to sit still likely saved his life. To read more, click here.

--Two hikers who were lost on Mount Pilchuck have been rescued. The Snohomish County Sheriff's office says a man and a woman who were hiking separately both became lost Sunday and then ran into each other. The man had a cell phone with a low battery but was able to call for help. Rescuers made contact with the pair Sunday night and helped them hike out early Monday. To read more, click here.


--Park visitation in Olympic National Park is way up. This apparently has little to do with frugal families in a down economy, but instead with a teeny bop fascination with the Stephanie Meyers Twilight vampire series. The books -- and film -- follow a teenage girl who lives on the fringes of the Olympic National Park in Forks, Washington. Fans have become enamored with both the town and with the National Park. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--As many as 30 horrified onlookers watched as a male hiker fell from the cable route on Yosemite's Half Dome Cable Route on June 13th. It appears that rain may have contributed to the fatal slip on the popular "tourist" route to the top of the feature. To read more, click here and here.

Alaska:

The Alaska Volcano Observatory posted the following report this week on the Redoubt Volcano:

Early morning hutcam image shows snow accumulating on the upper reaches of Redoubts still-growing dome. The lack of heat on the higher slopes, and steam and blocky morphology of the margins and toe of the lava dome suggests the predominant growth is internal and radial; expanding outwards rather than extruding from the top center.

The 2009 eruption of Redoubt volcano continues. Seismicity has been low during the past week, but remains above background level. Seismicity is primarily comprised of small, discrete events associated with continued growth and instability of the lava dome.


Cloudy conditions have obscured most webcam and satellite images this week. Mostly clear webcam images today show continued steam and gas emissions from the dome. No ash signals have been observed in satellite or radar imagery.


Poor weather conditions throughout the week limited field work opportunities. One field crew was able to measure gas emissions from the plume and briefly observe the dome on Monday, June 15. The lava dome is now approximately 1,000 m in length, 460 m in width, and 200 m tall. Data suggest that the rate of dome growth may be slowing. This large mass of fresh lava remains unstable and could fail with little or no warning, leading to significant ash production and possible lahars in the Drift River valley.


AVO continues to monitor Redoubt's activity 24/7. AVO will provide frequent updates of the volcano's status and the earliest possible warning of significant explosive activity and other hazards.

Notes from All Over:

--Three American Climbers -- Majka Burhardt, Peter Doucette and Kate Rutherford -- recently completed two new big wall routes on the Orabeskopf Wall in Southeastern Africa. Southern Crossing clocks in at a solid 5.11+, Grade V and Painted Giraffe, clocks in at 5.9+, Grade V. To read more, click here.

AAI Guide Tim Connelly shows off a battlescar from the Maxidash
Tim was stung in the ear by a wasp while in the Competition

--Earlier this week we published an article on the Maxidash race in Kenya and one of our guide's involvment in the race. After 350 kilometers of driving and 16 routes in 24 hours AAI guide Tim Connelly and Lucas Gonzales won the event with 440 points. To read more, click here and here.

--Backcountry enthusiasts no longer have to forgo wine with dinner. Trek N' Eat is producing a dehydrated wine...which is kind of weird. The wine comes in a powder and has 8.2% alcoholic content. To read more, click here.

--The television show, Today, recently ran a piece on a couple of canyoneers who were videotaping a rappel in Zion National Park. During the descent, one of the climbers lost control and fell over 100 feet. To watch the segment, please click on the following link:

Visit msnbc.com for Breaking News, World News, and News about the Economy

UIAA Gear Testing Videos

A couple of weeks ago, we posted a video of a carabiner strength test. The video was very popular. We got to see a press destroy a carabiner. Videos of gear breaking are always engaging. As a result, today we have posted a few more climbing gear testing videos from the UIAA. These are both terrifying and a lot of fun all at the same time!







--Jason D. Martin

June and July Climbing Events

--June 24 --Seattle, WA -- Steve Swenson, President of American Alpine Club

Steve Swenson is the current president of the American Alpine Club and a member of the Seattle Vertical World. He will discuss his forthcoming trip to an unclimbed 7,500 meter peak in the eastern Karakoram in India as well as climbing in Pakistan, China, and Patagonia.

Seattle REI, June 24th 2009, 7:00pm

--June 26-27 -- Boulder, CO -- 3rd Annual HERA Climb For Life Celebration

--June 26 & 28 -- Bend & Portland, OR -- Matt Segal Slideshow Tour in Oregon

Matt Segal is traveling to various cities in the US, and his shows will include images and video incuding England's famous Gritstone.
The is an hour long show, and there will also be some great raffle prizes.

--June 27 -- San Francisco, CA --ASCA Climb-a-thon at Planet Granite

--June 26-28 -- Gunnison, CO --Gunnison Rock & Race Festival

We're always on the lookout for events that bring the climbing community together. If you're aware of an event we don't have posted above, please feel free to email us with all the details. Event posts will be made at AAI's discretion.

--June 27-28 -- Rumney, NH --Women's Rock Climbing Weekend

--July 3 -- Harrisburg, PA --Climb up the 50

--July 11 -- La Fayette, GA -- Rock Town Clean Up

--July 8-12 -- Lander, Wyoming --International Climber's Festival

--July 18 -- Castlewood Canyon, Castle Rock, CO --Summer Sandstone Series: Castlewood Canyon Bouldering Comp and Clean-Up

--July 18 -- Raleigh, NC --American Alpine Club Wilderness First Aid Course

--July 18 -- Sunnyvale, CA --ASCA Climb-a-thon at Planet Granite

--July 20 -- Reel Rock Film Competition Submission Deadline

--July 25 -- Obed/Clear Creek, GA -- Help Clean Up the Obed

Whitney Climbed in Great Conditions

AAI guide Mark Grundon called in to report that he and Jamie Campbell (of Katy Texas - outside of Houston) had just summited Mt. Whitney. They climbed the Mountaineers Route, and said conditions were terrific:

"This spring and early summer we've had a lot of issues with thunderstorms, but we had it perfect on this trip. Besides great weather, we had four or five inches of fresh snow. It was actually better than some parts of the winter. We had snow covered ground all the way from Iceberg Lake to the summit."

"The snow covered all the loose rocks, so it was very comfortable walking and climbing. The final pitch to the summit was boot pack - with great steps kicked and well frozen. It was a fun finish. Amazing views needless to say!"

He reported that they climbed from camp near Iceberg Lake to the summit and back again in about 9 hours. They left camp at 6:00 am and summited at 11:40. They had a nice break on top enjoying great views of the Sierra high peaks before descending to camp where they arrived at 3:00pm.

The Maxidash

Last week it was announced that AAI Guide Tim Connelly and Lucas Gonzales will team up to compete in the Mountain Club of Kenya's Maxidash race, the premier and only race of it's kind in East Africa.

Lucas getting familiar with the Ndeiya site

For the uninitiated, the “Maxi-Dash” is an annual event for the rock climbers of the Club and for ‘climbing guests’ who would wish to participate. The idea is to gather as many points as possible by climbing set climbs at five different crags around Nairobi. These are Lukenya, Embaribal, Frog, Ndeiya and Hell’s Gate National Park.

The Maxidash has been held for over 20 years and many colourful characters and stories have been engaged in its history. This year however the 2 newcomers have seen to it to challenge the locals and mainly a set of 3 or 4 climbers that have consistently won the competition in the last 10 years. 'We shall see them really DASH this year!!' barked Connelly at the weekly MCK meeting where he announced his participation and threw down the proverbial gauntlet to those few climbers attending.

Tim working out the intricacies of Hell's gate's Main wall

The official rules state there is to be no sabotaging of vehicles, brought about after a particularly competitive year found wheels flying off vehicles at high speed. But they continue to not ban activities of route sabotaging such as banana smearing or baboon baiting (whatever that might be!!)

Finding the descents, strategy of which routes to climb, when and general motoring skills on African roads is as important as efficient climbing ability. (Tim racing down so that he can climb up another route)


Spare wheel, food, plenty of petrol, liquids and good shock absorbers will see competitors through the whole day. There will be at least 3 hours of driving between sites, probably closer to 4 or 5, and Kenya is not known for it's great roads!! (one of the sites, Frog. a good hour from Nairobi and probably an hour and a half from the next site)

The next week will be filled with lots of preparation . Luckily this team is fitted out with a few pairs of 5ten shoes for both the climbing and approach/descent, a Toyota 4runner and lots of energy for this 'rumble in the jungle'!!!

--Tim Connelly, AAI Guide

AAI AAI Expedition on Denali at 14,000' in Low Pressure System

Saturday June 20 at 4:53 pm Alaska time, AAI guide Forest McBrian sent the following Denali dispatch via satellite telephone.


“Hello this is Forest calling from Denali. We’re still at 14,000 feet. There’s a low pressure system creeping through starting about now that should last a few days.

“As you know, guides Kurt and Lee went down to base camp yesterday because Lee wasn’t feeling well. Aidan had flown in yesterday to replace him, so they met at base camp and Aidan and Kurt climbed all the way up here last night in one push. They went all night and just showed up this morning. They were very tired, so after breakfast they went to bed.

“Everyone enjoyed a breakfast of piping hot French pressed coffee and breakfast burritos, and now the team is busy doing chores around camp. Everyone is in a good state of mind, just waiting for conditions to become favorable.

“I hope everyone at home is having a good time over the weekend. I will call again when there is more news to report.”

NOTE:

You can follow the progress of all AAI Denali expeditions on the dispatch page of AAI's website: www.aai.cc The URL for the specific page is: http://aai.cc/currentnews/ Use the drop down to find the team you want to follow.

Dispatches are posted Monday through Friday on the dispatch page. Aside from special events (e.g., summits, major storms, etc), they are posted on this blog only on the weekends. On Mondays they are moved to the dispatch page.

Lack of a current dispatch indicates that the team is really busy, that they have had a problem establishing an adequate satellite transmission, or that they haven't been able to use their solar panel to recharge batteries and are preserving their batteries for safety needs.

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Greetings Weekend Warriors and welcome to another adrenaline filled session of video watching.  I hope you're ready to get your stoke on because this weekend we're bringing you quite an eclectic mix of films featuring climbing from around the world.  Nothing like a little bit of spicy variety to get the ol' heart pumping.  Watch, enjoy...and then go CLIMB something!

The first video on the mix features some big wall climbing in Borneo...yes, that's right, Borneo.  Watch as Conrad Anker and Alex Honnold (along with other fellow climbers) team up to climb this impressive line on this very special island in the Southeast Pacific.  This is adventure climbing at its essence.

Borneo Dispatch Video #8 "The Summit" from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

Video number two on the lineup crosses the Pacific and features some Brazilian sport climbing...perhaps a better word would be 'super' sport climbing.  Watch as uber climber Magrao climbs a 28 bolt, 58 meter endurofest called Super Herois (Super Heroes).

SUPER HEROIS vertical carnival video 26 from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.

And for the final video I thought that we could take a trip over to Europe (kind of) to watch the trailer for the 2009 European Outdoor Film Tour.  This video features some awesome extreme outdoor action...crazy crazy crazy!

Tapto Annoucement

A visit to the enchanted and spectacular Tapto Lakes area has been added to the North Cascades National Park Backpacking trip offered by AAI. This high alpine shelf most of the way up Red Face Mountain has 4 small lakes of different sizes and is snowed in most of the year. A very peaceful setting far from any trailhead or civilization, it is a great place for watching the sunset over Copper ridge or the sunrise on Challenger Glacier. Most people venturing deep into the park are visiting this special place.

An aerial view of Tapto Lakes

Challenger Glacier seen from the shore of one of the Tapto Lakes

Tapto Lakes from the Ridge in September

Challenger Glacier and Peak from ridge near Tapto Lakes.

Jeff Ries, AAI Backpacking Guide

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- June 18, 2009

Sierra:

--It appears that there are significant problems with bears at the base of El Capitan. Haul bags that have been cached at the base are being destroyed. There are a number of approved bear storage methods for the base of the wall. To read about them, click here.

Himalaya:

--A top mountaineer from Melbourne, Australia has died after scaling the world's fifth highest peak without oxygen. Mick Parker, 36, reached the summit of the 8462m Makalu in Nepal on May 21 and then returned to Kathmandu.  He was found by his landlord in that city, and an autopsy indicated that he was suffering from the effects of high altitude pulmonary edema.  It is extremely unusualy to descend to so much lower an elevation and still have the effects of HAPE.  To read  more, click here and for more details look here: http://tinyurl.com/m4bn68

Notes from All Over:

--For all of you out there who were upset by the fact that the frozen bigfoot found a few months ago turned out to be a fraud, something new and interesting has appeared. There was a reported sighting of the mythical lake monster that supposedly lives in Vermont's Lake Champlain last week. Thirty-seven year old Eric Olsen shot a video of the creature known as "Champ." Check out the video here to decide if it is the monster or merely a moose out for a swim...

--Bush administration officials pushed aside the National Park Service and sought to lease public lands for drilling on the boarders of Utah's most famous redrock parks during their final days in power, a special report to Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar says. Salazar was condemned by the oil industry for scrapping 77 of the leases weeks after taking office, but all of the drilling parcels had already been delayed by a federal lawsuit that still hasn't been resolved. To read more, click here.

--It is possible that the National Parks are recession proof. The Billings Gazette reports that despite the recession, Yellowstone National Park had 20 percent more visitors this year than last year. To read the article, click here.

--Free National Park Weekends. To help out the national parks this summer interior secretary Ken Salazar has announced that during the weekends of June 20 and 21, July 18 and 19, and August 15 and 16 entrance fees to 147 parks will be waived. To read more, click here.

--New Type of cloud discovered. Just when you think you have seen it all when it comes to clouds those crazy formations in sky throw a curve ball at ya. The new cloud type, called asperatus, is the first new cloud type seen since 1951. To seen some amazing photos of this new cloud, click here.

-- If you were desperate for some cash, willing to break the law, and do not climb would you be tempted into robbing a company that is named after the rare Black Diamond? Well one man in Salt Lake City was very tempted. At 3 am June 13 a man came into the Black Diamond headquarters demanding diamonds and precious metals. When told that there was nothing of the sort at Black Diamond the thief decided to take a computer and some ice screws all the while using an ice axe as his "stick em up" weapon of choice. To read more,click here.

Conditions Report -- June 17, 2009

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

Lyall's Mariposa Lily.  Photo by Thom Iverson

--Thom Iverson recently did a hike up Ingalls Creek.  He wrote a very helpful trip report, complete with pictures of the Ingalls Creek crossing condition and numerous wildflowers.  If you'd like to brush up on your flora knowledge check out the full report here. 

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Beginning on June 5 the Mount Baker National Recreation Area will be closed to snowmobilers. For more information on this closure click here.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.

Mt. Olympus from the Boulder-Everett-Appleton Traverse.  Photo by Andy Luks

--Andy Luks and friends headed over to the Olympics with the objective of doing the Boulder-Everett-Appleton Traverse.  They soon decided instead switch things up a bit and do the Appleton-Everett-Boulder-Plus Traverse.  Along the way they were greeted with breathtaking views of the Olympics, including Mt. Olympus.  To read the full report and see some great photos of the trip click here.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.

--It appears that a pair of peregrine falcons have nested on the classic line, Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth. All routes from Outer Space, White Slabs Direct and White Fright, south to the descent gully, including Orbit, are closed to climbing until July 31st.

--After further review of the closure of Midnight and Noontime Rocks near Leavenworth park officials have determined that the nesting raptors have moved on.  As of June 9th the climbing ban has been lifted and access to the cliffs is now open.

--The Sage Hill hiking and biking trails near Wenatchee have been closed due to neighbor complains. To read more about the closure click here.

SIERRA:

--The Reds Meadow road in the Eastern Sierras opened on June 5. For more information click here.

--For information regarding wall closures due to falcon nesting in Yosemite National Park, click here.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

ALASKA RANGE:

--For daily dispatches from expeditions currently climbing Denali, click here.

--Forecast for Denali.

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

--The climbing season in the Alps has begun and we are accepting applications for our 2009 climbs of Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger and many other peaks in France and Switzerland.  Please call our office (360-671-1505) for current availability.

RED ROCK CANYON:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The scenic drive loop is back to opening its gates at 6 AM instead of 7 AM.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

Ground Breaking Report on Climate Change Released

A groundbreaking US government report on climate change was released today.  With contributions from 13 U.S. Government Departments, the findings largely blame climate change on human-induced emissions of heat-trapping gasses.

The report is the first on climate change since President Barack Obama took office, and in plain, non-scientific terms it explains, among other things, how global warming has resulted in an increase of extreme weather such as the powerful heat-wave that swept Europe in 2003, claiming tens of thousands of lives. 

Here's a link to an intro to the report, and from this page you can download a PDF to the report: http://tinyurl.com/m4rdnp

Here's a summary of the main findings:

1. Global Warming is unequivocal and primarily human-induced.

Global temperature has increased over the past 50 years.  This observed increase due primarily to human-induced emissions of heat-trapping gases. (p. 13)

2. Climate changes are underway in the United States and are projected to grow.

Climate-related changes are already observed in the United States and its coastal waters.  These include increase in heavy downpours, rising temperature and sea level, rapidly retreating glaciers, thawing permafrost, lengthening growing seasons, lengthening ice-free seasons in the ocean and on lakes and rivers, earlier snowmelt, and alterations in river flows.  These changes are projected to grow. (p. 27)

3. Widespread climate-related impacts are occurring now and are expected to increase.

Climate changes are already affecting water, energy, transportation, agriculture, ecosystems, and health.  These impacts are different from region to region and will grow under projected climate change. (p. 41-106, 107-152)

4. Climate change will stress water resources.

Water is an issue in every region, but the nature of the potential impacts varies.  Drought, related to reduced precipitation, increased evaporation, and increased water loss from plants, is an important issue in many regions, especially in the West.  Floods and water quality problems are likely to be amplified by climate change in most regions.  Declines in mountain snowpack are important in the West and Alaska where snowpack provides vital natural water storage.  (p. 41, 129, 135, 139)

5. Crop and livestock production will be increasingly challenged.

Agriculture is considered one of the sectors most adaptable to changes in climate.  However, increased heat, pests, water stress, diseases, and weather extremes will pose adaptation challenges for crop and livestock production. (p. 71)

6. Coastal areas are at increasing risk from sea-level rise and storm surge.

Sea-level rise and storm surge place many U.S. coastal areas at increasing risk of erosion and flooding, especially along the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts, Pacific Islands, and parts of Alaska.  Energy and transportation infrastructure and other property in coastal areas are very likely to be adversely affection. (p. 111, 139, 145, 149)

7. Threats to human health will increase.

Health impacts of climate change are related to heat stress, waterborne diseases, poor air quality, extreme weather events, and diseases transmitted by insects and rodents.  Robust public health infrastructure can reduce the potential for negative impacts. (p. 89)

8. Climate change will interact with many social and environmental stresses. 

Climate change will combine with pollution, population growth, overuse of resources, urbanization, and other social, economic, and environmental stresses to create larger impacts than from any of these factors along.  (p. 99)

9. Thresholds will be crossed, leading to large changes in climate and ecosystems.

There are a variety of thresholds in the climate system and ecosystems.  These thresholds determine, for example, the presence of sea ice and permafrost, and the survival of species, from fish to insect pests, with implications for society.  With further climate change, the crossing of additional thresholds is expected.  (p. 76, 82, 115, 137, 142)

10. Future climate change and its impacts depend on choices made today.

The amount and rate of future climate change depend primarily on current and future human-caused emissions of heat-trapping gases and airborne particles.  Responses involve reducing emissions to limit future warming, and adapting to the changes that are unavoidable. (p. 25, 29)