Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!

It's Thanksgiving weekend! And it's time to get stoked! So grab yourself a turkey sandwich and a little left-over pie, sit-back, relax and enjoy the show!

First we have a film that a few of our guides put together on the Spearhead Traverse in Canada. Most of the filming was done by Richard Riquelme and the stills were primarily taken by Matt Anderson. Matt edited the piece. The other participant was AAI senior guide, Dylan Taylor



And second we have a trailer for a new climbing film entitled, "Call it What You Want." We'll call this trailer something alright. We'll call it awesome!


'Call it what you want' Official Trailer from Dave Gill on Vimeo.

Ice Tool Placement

The following video is a great tutorial for both novice and intermediate ice climbers alike. There is nothing more important than a good stick for a climber on steep terrain. Every stick should be considered a hold and must support your bodyweight.



The one thing that should be added to this video is one's need to trust the leash on the tool. If you have a leash on your ice tool then you should allow it to support your weight as much as possible. If you don't do this, then your forearms will flame out much more quickly on steep terrain.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- November 27, 2008

Happy Turkey Day!

You know what Turkey Day means? Yes, it means turkey and stuffing, but it also means something else. It means that all of the desert climbing areas throughout the west are swarming with people. Many people take the whole week off to get away to the desert sun. If you are anywhere near Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Joshua Tree National Park, Smith Rock State Park, Zion National Park or Indian Creek, you're probably competing for routes...but you're also probably having a lot of fun!



Northwest:

--The Washington State Board on Geographic Names recently approved the renaming of a mountain near Darrington in Snohomish County after Ira Spring, a deceased author who penned innumerable backpacking guides and was a fierce proponent of wilderness preservation. Spring died in Edmonds in 2003 at age 84. To read more, click here.

A skier at Snoqualmie Pass Ski Resort in some previous season.
There currently is very little snow in the Cascades.

--Snoqualmie Pass Ski Resort recently received Forest Service approval to expand their resort with nine new and rebuilt ski lifts. They also plan to expand night skiing, add a mountain-top restaurant and improve visitor-services buildings. To read more, click here.

--James MacDonald Jr. -- a professor who studied geology around Negro Creek near Blewett Pass -- is trying to have the name of the stream changed. The professor applied to the U.S. Board on Geographic Names to change the name to Etienne Creek. Antoine Etienne was a former slave who found gold in the creek in the 1870s. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--Renowned climber Dean Potter recently made the first free solo ascent of the Alien Roof (5.12b) on the Rostrum in Yosemite National Park. While most free soloists have no room for error, Potter has developed an unusual technique to protect himself. The soloist wears a 5-pound BASE parachute rig which he would employ should he fall. To read more, click here. To see a topo of the route, click here. This individual is well known for his stunts. Following is a short video of Potter slacklining without any protection in Yosemite Valley.

--Two men have recently been sentenced for attempting to use dogs in order to hunt bears out of season. On July 26, Gerald Hill and Daniel Johnson were cited after Fish and Game implemented an elaborate sting operation to catch hunters out of season. To read more, click here.

South America:

--On November 1st, Bolivian climbers got together for the first annual Rock Star Festival. Participants dressed up like real rock stars such as Axel Rose, Slash, Boy George and others while competing in "normal" climber festival activities. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

A climber high on Mount Everest
Photo by Guy Cotter

--China has significantly increased the number of border police on the north side of Mount Everest. The Chinese media is reporting that this is a direct response to increasing cases of theft, prostitution and gambling. Last year Chinese authorities pledged to increase police presence following repeated reports of theft. However, this is not their only mandate. In October of 2006, Chinese border guards were filmed by Western hikers in the area firing at and apparently killing at least one Tibetan who was trying to cross into Nepal. To read more, click here.

--The Rowell Award for the Art of Adventure honors that adventurer whose artistic passion illuminates the wild places of the world, and whose accomplishments significantly benefit both the environment and the peoples who inhabit these lands and regions. This $15,000 annual cash award will be presented to an individual selected by a panel of active and influential members of the outdoor adventure world. Artist nominations may be made until December 31st, 2008. To find out more, click here.

--Recently an article on Standard.net featured world renowned climber Jeff Lowe. Lowe is no longer climbing at the level that he once was. Instead he is focused on his work with Ogden Climbing Parks while fighting a personal battle with a degenerative brain disease. To read more, click here.

--Jennifer Lowe-Anker's memoir Forget Me Not recently won the National Outdoor Book Award (NOBA) for outdoor literature. In 1999, Lowe's husband, Alex Lowe (not to be confused with Jeff Lowe, who is unrelated) was killed in an avalanche on Shishapangma. The book is the story of her life, both before and after her husband's death. To read more, click here.

A beta photo of Mothers Buttress from Mountainproject.com
Photo and Captions by Matthew Seymour

--Mothers Buttress, a major crag in Unaweep Canyon near Grand Junction, Colorado, has been sold to the Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition (WCCC) by the parcel's new owners, John and Marti Peterson of Gunnison, Colorado. Local climbers formed a 501(c)(3) nonprofit corporation in part to purchase the land so climbers may access the granite climbing area in perpetuity. With grants from the Access Fund, REI, and donations from the National Outdoor Leadership School, as well as gifts from several individuals, the WCCC raised money and in-kind donations to help move the deal forward. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report -- November 26, 2008

SPECIAL NOTE:

The next few days will be some of the busiest days of the season in desert and southwest climbing locations. If you're currently reading this and you plan on camping in Red Rock, Joshua Tree or Smith Rock, then you should definitely get moving. Camping spaces at desert climbing areas tend to become incredibly sparse over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend.

RED ROCK CANYON:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

A climber on Johnny Vegas (II+ 5.7)

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

A climber in Joshua Tree National Park

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens and Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth and Highway 2.

--Significant damage was sustained in Mount Rainier National Park during a rain event on November 12th. To see photos of the damage click here.

Eric Linthwaite on a new route on Beacon Rock over the weekend.
The party encountered cold weather and high winds.
Note the aider and the rope caught in the wind.
Photo by Dave Goldring

--The weather in the Pacific Northwest was variable over the weekend. On Saturday it was a bit rainy in the lowlands, while on Sunday it was sunny, clear and cold everywhere. A few parties got out over the weekend. This party sieged a rock route with warm clothes and aid equipment down on the Oregon/Washington border. This party climbed the frigid Northeast Couloir of Dragontail Peak.

A party climbed the Northeast Couloir of Dragontail Peak over the weekend.
The couloir is the central gully in the picture.
From the John Frieh Collection

Dave Burdick navigating the steep Dragontail Couloir.
From the John Frieh collection.

--Skiing in the Pacific Northwest is pretty dismal right now. It doesn't look like any of the resorts will be open for Thanksgiving. People are -- of course -- still finding some snow in the backcountry, but this is pretty dismal right now as well. We expect things to change dramatically within the next week or so. This guy tried to find snow in the Mount Pugh region, but didn't do so well. This party explored the Mount Baker backcountry near the Coleman Pinnacle. And lots of people were messing around up on the Muir Snowfield this weekend.

SIERRA:

--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

--There's not much skiing in the Sierra yet. There are a few people getting out there and hitting the north facing slopes...but it is still quite dry. Here is one report on a successful descent of Red Slate Mountain over the weekend.

Welcome to the boneyard! There isn't much snow in the Eastern Sierra.
This photo was taken on November 22nd.
Photo by Peter Caldwell

Ski approaches are supposed to be easy!
This photo was taken on the approach to Red Slate Mountain.
Photo by Peter Caldwell

The classic ski line on Red Slate Mountain is the central couloir.
As you can see, there is snow high in the Sierra...but it's pretty desperate down low.
Photo by Peter Caldwell

--Here is an old photo-heavy trip report from a big wall climb in Yosemite.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

--The Alaska season is over until April of 2009, but we are already in the process of gearing up for it. We are now accepting applications for our 2009 Denali expeditions.

Utah Climbing Areas Impacted by Oil and Gas Leases

From the Access Fund Website:

On December 19 the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) will auction off oil and gas leases near Moab. Once these parcels are leased and put into production, the BLM must build roads capable of accommodating trucks and other large vehicles. Oil and gas rigs will sprout up near many of Moab's most famous climbs, significantly scarring these famous desert landscapes.

Impacted climbing areas include the Big Bend bouldering area, Big Bend Butte, Dolomite Spire, Lighthouse Tower along the River Road, Echo Pinnacle, Merrimac and Monitor Buttes in Courthouse Pasture, and the Witch and Warlock Towers in Hell Roaring Canyon. These desert towers host many classic climbs such as Infrared, Dolofright, Iron Maiden, Poseidon Adventure, and The Window Route.

The Access Fund understands the need for domestic energy production, but believes Moab is well served by protecting its world-class recreational assets, which pump over $260 million annually into the local economy. We believe that a balance can be struck between the need for energy production and the benefits of recreation and tourism by urging the BLM to defer several key parcels slated for lease.

Please tell BLM officials-by December 4th-to protect climbing and other low-impact recreation by withdrawing proposed lease parcels near Porcupine Rim, Hell Roaring Canyon, Tusher Canyon and Courthouse Pasture.

Use the following official protest letter to voice your comments. This form must be used for correspondence with the BLM regarding this issue and must be mailed or faxed (it cannot be e-mailed). Due to the high volume of faxes received by the BLM on protest deadline days, we encourage you to send in your comments early.

SAMPLE LETTER:

November ___, 2009 [BLM MUST RECEIVE PROTEST BY DEC. 4, 2008]

Bureau of Land Management
Utah State Office
PO Box 45155
Salt Lake City, UT 84145-0155
FAX 801-539-4237

Re: December 19, 2008 Lease Parcels: 176, 177, 180, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, 186, 196, 197, 216, 217, 218, 219, 221, 222, 223, 242, 243 and 244

Pursuant to 43 C.F.R. 3120.1-3, please accept this letter of protest regarding the proposed lease sale of the above noted parcels. I respectfully request that these parcels be withdrawn from the December 19, 2008 sale, for the following reasons:

I am a resident of ____________, ___. I [have been to Moab/am planning to visit Moab/currently live in Moab], and have specific concerns about BLM's December 19, 2008 oil and gas lease sale in Utah. I have reviewed the relevant parts of the recently released Moab Resource Management Plan (RMP). The RMP does not include a discussion or analysis regarding leasing and development of oil and gas in Porcupine Rim and Matt Martin Point, Tusher Canyon/Courthouse Pasture areas, or Mineral Point near Hell Roaring Canyon. The BLM should withdraw these parcels from potential leasing and at minimum conduct site-specific analyses and provide an opportunity for public comment before leasing these areas for oil and gas production.

Moab's Recreation Economy

The recently released Moab RMP includes specific reference to the Colorado Riverway Special Recreation Management Area (SRMA) which includes the Big Bend area and Porcupine Rim Trail. The existence of this SRMA requires that the following parcels be deferred as access roads to these parcels and development infrastructure will violate the Visual Resource Management Objectives set forth in the RMP. The loss of trails (conversion to roads) and the visual impacts to this area would greatly reduce my desire to visit Moab and recreate in the Big Bend and Porcupine Rim areas. Parcel numbers: 216, 217, 218, 219, 221, and 223.

Tusher Canyon and the Mill Canyon/Upper Courthouse Pasture areas are designated Mountain Bike Areas within the BLM's Moab RMP and are closed to motorized travel except on designated routes. Rockclimbing is also a significant and longstanding use of this area. The controlled surface use stipulation for this VRM II area requires that the level of change to the landscape be low. Oil and gas activity in this area will greatly detract from the desirability of these trails and the climbing opportunities in the area. Impacts to this area from oil and gas development would greatly reduce my desire to visit Moab and recreate in the Tusher Canyon and the Mill Canyon/Upper Courthouse areas. Parcel numbers: 180, 181,182, 183, 184, 185, 186, 196, and 197.

The BLM should withdraw specific parcels located on Mineral Point adjacent to Hell Roaring Canyon to preserve the unique visual qualities of that area (parcel numbers 176 and 177), and specific parcels contiguous to Arches National Park requiring industrial access through the park should also be deferred (parcel numbers 217 and 218). Both of these locations are important recreation destinations in the Moab region and industrial activity here will diminish visitation and lessen the benefits of tourism on the local economy.

The BLM acknowledges that the potential for oil and gas production is low for these lease areas, yet the agency also recognizes that tourists attracted to Moab's recreational assets are a major component of the local economy. The BLM should protect Moab's unique recreational opportunities-and future economy-and prevent the permanent scars of access roads and industrial development. The BLM has discretionary authority to approve or disapprove mineral leasing of public lands. I have visited or plan to visit the specific parcels referenced in this protest letter, and request that the above listed parcels be withdrawn from the December 19, 2008, lease sale, and that these parcels not be re-offered in future lease sales.

Sincerely,

NAME
ADDRESS
PHONE NUMBER

Cc: The Honorable Governor Jon Huntsman
Utah State Capitol Complex
350 North State Street, Suite 200
PO Box 142220
Salt Lake City, Utah 84114-2220

Red Rock Geology

The Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area has a unique geological history. Throughout the vast majority of recent geologic history (the last 600 million years), Red Rock was underwater, a part of a massive inland sea. During this period -- known as the Paleozoic Era -- sediments settled at the bottom of the sea and ultimately turned into limestone.

The best time to take photos of the cliffs and mountains of Red Rock is just after sunrise.

Approximately 225 million years ago, the earth beneath the sea began to rise. As sea-bed sediments became exposed to the air they quickly oxidized. The oxidization is what was responsible for the red and orange hue found throughout the canyon. Indeed, there are places where one can see rust stains still spreading in the sandstone.

Throughout this period things continued to change. Over the years the area evolved into a broad plain. Approximately 180 million years ago the shift from sea to dry plain was complete. The area changed into a massive arid desert with mile-high shifting red sand-dunes. The limestone created by the sea still existed, it was just buried somewhere beneath the dunes. Over time these sand-dunes froze into a petrified state, creating the massive cliffs that now comprise Red Rock Canyon.

Mount Wilson in the Morning

Some geologists believe that the striations that exist throughout the canyon are the result of shifting sand on top of petrified rock. The lines were simply created by the wind blowing sand across the desert in a variety of different directions.

Beginning approximately 65 million years ago, the earth's crust was again changing the area. A massive series of thrust faults which extended throughout the west developed. This caused an unusual thing to happen in Red Rock Canyon. Older limestone layers of rock were thrust to the surface and pressed over the younger layers of rock. One can easily see this in Red Rock today. The limestone is on top of the sandstone. This particular feature is called the Keystone Thrust.

Red Rock Canyon remains one of the only places in the world where there is easy access to such a thrust. As a result, university geology classes from all over the country make trips to Las Vegas in order to look at, study and map the thrust. We suspect that they probably map the Las Vegas Strip during their free time as well.

Geologic history is always intriguing. At AAI we often look at glaciers, volcanoes and valleys that were formed by geologic events. But for many guides the most interesting geology that we encounter is not that of the high mountains, but that of the beautiful and every changing desert of Red Rock Canyon.

--Jason D. Martin

December and January Climbing Events

--November 28-30 -- Los Angeles, CA -- ATS Outdoor Adventure Festival

--November 30 -- Contest -- Defenders of Wildlife Writing Contest

--December 3-5 -- Seattle, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival Tour

--December 4-6 -- Bozeman, MT -- Bozeman Ice Festival

--December 5 -- Ellensburg, WA -- The Fine Line

--December 9 -- Seattle, WA -- Siguniang First Ascent

--December 10 -- Bellingham, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival Tour

--December 11-13 -- Mora, MN -- Sandstone Ice Festival

--December 12-13 -- Mammoth, CA -- Sierra Avalanche Kickoff Party

--January 8-11 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Festival

--January 21 -- Bellingham, WA -- Backcountry Skiing Pacific Northwest

--January 30-Feb 1 -- Munising, MI -- Michigan Ice Fest

A Brief Discussion of Altitude Illness

Altitude illness is one of the most dangerous factors in high altitude mountaineering. It is incredibly important that all climbers who intend on spending a large amount of time up high take care to understand how altitude affects the body and the mind.

High altitude may be easily defined by three categories: High Altitude, Very High Altitude and Extreme Altitude. Each of these are defined below.

High Altitude: High altitude may be defined as elevations between 5000 and 11,500 feet. Given sufficient time most climbers will adapt to these types of elevations.

Very High Altitude: Though more than 10 million people throughout the world live at altitudes that range between 11,500 and 18,000 feet, the rest of us do not. As a result a variety of individual factors come into play when traveling to such an altitude. A climber's fitness and his age are both huge factors at such altitudes. Surprisingly, younger climbers tend to have more problems at altitude than older climbers.

Extreme Altitude: Elevations that exceed 18,000 feet are considered extreme. Performance at such high altitudes declines dramatically.

Denali is 20,320' and requires climbing at an extreme altitude.
Photo by Coley Gentzel

Death Zone: The words, "death zone" say it all. You probably should not spend too much time above 26,000 feet if you want to stay alive.

These definitions really don't mean much. They're simply an academic way to understand altitude. Your body will respond to altitude changes at every elevation no matter what the name of the altitude is. Some people will do well up high at extreme altitudes and some won't.

Thinner air and adaptation to a higher altitude results in a number of physiological effects. The first thing you'll notice is heavier breathing and diuresis (you'll need to pee a lot). As you notice this a million different things are going on in your body as you climb to higher altitudes. These changes include the following from medicinenet.com:

• The depth of respiration increases;
• The pressure in the pulmonary arteries increases, forcing blood into portions of the lung which are normally not used at sea level;
• We make more red blood cells to carry oxygen;
• We make more of a specific substance (called 2,4-DPG)that facilitates the release of oxygen from hemoglobin to the body tissues.

Acclimatization generally takes 1 to 3 days at a given altitude. For example, if a person hikes to 10,000 feet (3,048 meters) and spends several days at that altitude, their body acclimatizes to 10,000 feet (3,048 meters). If the person then climbs to 12,000 feet (3,658 meters), the body needs to acclimatize once again and it takes another 1 to 3 days.

If your body is not adapting properly you may actually get sick. If the sickness appears to be getting worse, the best thing to do is to descend to a lower altitude. There are three types of altitude related illnesses to watch out for. Two of the three can be fatal, so it is incredibly important to monitor yourself and your team-members. The altitude illnesses are as follows:

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): This is a common response to a rapid change in elevation. Symptoms include headaches and nausea. Usually this will go away after you hydrate and spend some time at a given altitude.

High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE): This is a life-threatening pulmonary edema that results from an increased blood flow through the lungs. Symptoms include wet sounds in the lungs, dizzyness, and sometimes even bloody sputum. Symptoms develop very quickly and the response -- to get the victim down to a lower altitude -- must take place just as quickly.

High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE): This is a life-threatening swelling of the brain. Symptoms include poorly functioning mental abilities (i.e. confusion, fatigue and weird behavior) and severe ataxia (dizzyness). As with HAPE, it is extremely important to immediately descend with the victim.

In this brief discussion we were not able to cover every type of treatment for different altitude related problems and we didn't even touch on altitude drugs. To dip deeper into the world of high altitude mountaineering and altitude physiology you might enjoy Altitude Illness: Prevention and Treatment by Stephen Bezruchka and Mountain Sickness Prevention Recognition and Treatment by Dr. Peter Hackett.

--Jason D. Martin

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!

One of the most daunting faces in the world is the North Face of the Eiger. Today, Warriors, we are going to celebrate that face with a few clips from films featuring the mountain.

Some of the coolest footage ever to make it onto film comes from those who are working with IMAX as a medium. The following trailer is from a new IMAX film entitled. "The Alps: Extreme Mountain Climbing." And this movie looks very very cool...



If that last clip got you going, check out this one. This is more from the same film featuring the Eiger.



And lastly, here is a photo essay of a climb on the Eiger North Face:

Finger Injuries in Climbing

The hangboard.

It sits above the doorway in the office, taunting me. It sits above the doorway, daring me to train. It sits above the doorway, and stares me down. It sits above the doorway...

I can't help it. I'm a climber. It's in my genes. I have to hang on it. I have to do pull-ups on it. I have to climb.

But the reality is that hanging on a hangboard is not climbing. Hangboards are supposed to be for training. In truth hangboards are one of the best ways climbers have devised to obtain sports injuries.

I know only too well. One day I succumbed to the devious taunts of the board and began to train on it. I succumbed and pulled something in my ring finger.

A climber on the Boy Scout Wall in Red Rock Canyon
Photo by Jason Martin

After doing a little research I discovered that I probably injured one of the pulleys in my finger. A great website called climbinginjuries.com provided me with everything that I needed to know in order to get better. They indicated that I had a pulley injury in my finger and they identified three levels of pulley injury.

• Grade III: A grade three injury usually involves a complete rupture of the pulley creating bowstringing of the tendon. Symptoms of this severe soft tissue injury includes local pain in the pulley, swelling or even bruising, pain when squeezing, pain when extending the finger, and most disturbingly those who get this injury often hear a pop inside their finger.
  

• Grade II: A grade two injury is identified by a partial rupture of the pulley tendon. This injury is characterized by local pain at the pulley, pain when squeezing and occasionally pain when extending a finger.

• Grade I: A grade one injury is characterized by local pain at the pulley, pain when squeezing and a sprain of the finger ligaments (collateral ligaments).

Treatment:

These injuries can be quite serious. Some people may require months to recover from a Grade III pulley rupture. Climbinginjuries.com has a prescribed method for treatment:

Go buy some TheraPutty! All orthopedic doctors and physical therapists will recommend putty as a tool for successful recovery. (2) The fingers generally receive poor blood flow so getting blood to the injured area is important. Contrast baths have had mixed results in the literature, but it wouldn't hurt to try. To do a contrast bath, get a bowl of warm water, and cold water. Put injured finger in cold water for a few minutes, then place it immediately in the warm water for a few minutes. Repeat 3-5 times. Finish with the cold water. This could be done after squeezing the putty ball to "flush out" the injured joint. Massaging the effected area can be effective as well. Start out lightly and gradually increase the pressure.

Pulleys

• Grade III: - Immediately- Stop climbing Apply ice or cold immediately, no more than 15 minutes at a time (1-2 days) Take ibuprofen for 1- 2 day Keep the hand elevated Week 1-2 Don't climb! Don't immobilize the finger. Unless there is a lot of pain, open and close your hand often VERY light massage at the site of the injury. Concentrate on other aspects of your life. Week 4-8 Warm the hands by use of a bath or an electric blanket, then squeeze the yellow (softest) putty. Don't push it, if there's pain…stop. Repeat a few times per day. Go to Grade II Treatment.

• Grade II: (Week 1-2) No climbing Warm the hands by use of a bath or an electric blanket, then squeeze the red putty. Don't push it, if there's pain…stop. Repeat a few times per day. Lubricate and lightly massage at the site of the injury. (Week 3-6) Tape the injured finger, stretch your forearms (this relieves the stress on the finger tendons) and climb the biggest holds you can find. Start easy, this will be the quickest way to recovery. If you climb too hard, too fast, then return to the start of Grade 2 and do not collect $200. Always stretch your forearms after warming up and prior to climbing. Start squeezing the medium to firm putty. Lubricate and massage the finger at the site of the injury a couple of times/day. Start lightly and gradually increase the intensity using very short strokes on the injured site. Go to Grade I Treatment

• Grade I (Week 1) Tape the injured finger and continue to climb at a level well below your normal level. Gradually increase the stresses on the fingers. Stretch your forearms after warming up and prior to climbing. This relieves the stress on the finger tendons. Squeeze the medium to firm putty a few times per day. Lubricate and massage the finger at the site of the injury. Start light and gradually increase intensity. Very short strokes on the injured site. Expected outcome Take advice from a practitioner who specializes in climbing. However, if treated early and effectively, with an appropriately graded return to activity, recovery will usually take 3-8 weeks. However, if the injury is pushed beyond its stage of recovery, re-injury will occur and may result in a chronic injury that will require a much more protracted rehabilitation period.

AAI Guide Ian McEleney climbs up into the sun in Joshua Tree
Photo by Mark Allen

The best way to recover from a finger injury is to avoid getting hurt in the first place. Here are a few rules to live by:

1. Always warm up on easy climbs. Don't jump straight onto the hardest thing you can get up.
2. Stretch your fingers.
   
3. Don't overtrain. If you are climbing hard then you should probably avoid climbing every day. Strong sport climbers will often climb every other day.
4. Stretch your fingers again.
   
5. Massage your forearms between burns.
6. Stretch your fingers more.

Sooner or later my finger will heal up and when it does I'll train more consciously. The hangboard definitely requires a bit more care. The last thing I need is another finger injury to crimp my crimping style!

--Jason D. Martin

Patagonia Trek & Climb Underway!

Our first Patagonia trek of the Argentine summer season began this morning! Climbers started the day with a tour of Perito Moreno, one of the world's major ice flows.

Randy and Nick Solakian, along with photographer, Phil Starr, hiking around the Perito Moreno glacier.

The Perito Moreno ice flow is just a short drive from El Calafate, where our climbers met last night and got a taste of the local culture.

Enjoying great Argentine food and music at a open air restaurant in El Calafate. Photo by Phil Starr.

Our three climbers made their way back to El Calafate, and are now in the midst of a three and a half hour bus ride to El Chalten, a small mountain village at the base of Cerro Fitzroy Range.

Bust depot in El Calafate moments before departing for El Chalten. Photo by Phil Starr.

Tomorrow morning, Randy, Nick, and Phil will start the day with a brief gear check and orientation of their trip. They will then begin hiking to Campamento Bridwell base camp, located south of the Torre Glacier which flows between Cerro Torre on the west and Fitzroy on the east. In a few days they will be climbing Cerro Velluda below the east face of Fitzroy and then Gorra Blanca near the edge of the Patagonia Ice Cap.

Stay tuned!

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- November 20, 2008

Northwest:

Mount Hood -- 11,249'

--Two years ago, a winter ascent of the technical North Face of Mount Hood went terribly wrong for three strong climbers. Kelly James, Brian Hall and Jerry Cooke perished in an unexpected storm high on the mountain...and the search for the trio became an international news story. Pundits who knew absolutely nothing about mountain climbing shared terribly misinformed opinions about the sport and about the decisions that these three climbers made. Now Karen James -- Kelly James' widow -- has come out with a book about the tragedy. It appears that the book is designed to refute much of the reactionary responses to her husband's decisions. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Washington state climber Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb recently made the first ascent of Kang Nachugo (22,096') in the Rolwaling Himal, Nepal. The previously unclimbed peak lies on the Tibet/Nepal border. Puryear and Gottlieb sent the new line alpine style in five days. To read more, click here.

--Spaniards Carlos Buhler and Joan Solé Rovirosa recently climbed a new line on the East Face of Cerro Castillo in Chilean Patagonia. Until their ascent, which began on October 6th, the mountain only sported two other routes. To read more, click here.

--Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, a pair of strong French climbers, recently climbed a new route on the south face of Nuptse (25,800'). The team pioneered the line alpine style. Unfortunately they were forced to descend due to the severe threat of frostbite and hypothermia at 25,262'. To read more, click here.

--Fabrizio Zangrilli, a Boulder based mountain guide, recently led a rescue on Pumori, a peak near Mount Everest in the Himalaya. Corrine Favre, a French athlete who specializes in high-altitude skiing and running, was hit by a massive block of ice at about 6,000 meters. Zangrilli took charge of the 24-hour rescue effort, rappelling and carrying Favre to the base where a doctor was able to initiate emergency medical treatment and a helicopter was called for immediate evacuation. To read more, click here.

--Alpinist magazine is for sale. It appears that the owners and editors of the magazine have decided that the only way to reopen their doors is under new ownership. Interested parties may check it out here.

--The New York Times editorial page reports that the recent election was indicative of America's wish to preserve open spaces. Voters approved $7.3 billion in new spending for parks and open-space preservation. Sixty-two of the 87 referendums to acquire or otherwise protect open space were approved. It appears that the support came in both rural, Republican areas, as well as in those areas that lean toward the Democrats. To read more, click here.

--Recent test results indicate that a wildlife biologist in Grand Canyon National Park died of plague after handling a dead animal. The death of 37-year-old Eric York last week triggered a health scare that led to about 30 people being given antibiotics as a precaution. An official who has been briefed on the test results confirmed Friday that they were positive for plague. To read more, click here.

--Those who have spent time in the Red River Gorge over the last few years are certainly aware of Liz and Rick Webber, the generous owners of Muir Valley. The Webbers have long provided the climbing community with unfettered access to the largest concentration of moderate climbing in the gorge. The Webbers may soon lose their property as a restructuring of a nearby highway has resulted in plans that may force them to turn over Muir Valley to the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet through the imminent domain law. To read more and to find out what you can do to help, please click here.

Lance Hering

--Twenty-three year-old marine Lance Hering was recently arrested after disappearing two years ago. At the time it was reported that Hering fell and suffered an injury to his head in a rock-climbing accident at Eldorado Canyon State Park in Colorado. After the incident was reported by a friend, Steve Powers, it appeared that Hering had wandered away. The report prompted a five-day search that involved roughly 600 volunteers from 40 different agencies. It was the largest search effort ever in Boulder County, encompassing the canyon area southwest of Boulder. After police repeatedly questioned the man, Powers admitted to lying. He pleaded guilty to false reporting last year. He said he was just helping a friend because he didn't want Hering to get killed in Iraq. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report -- November 19, 2008

Red Rock Canyon:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is in the process of developing a new 23 million dollar visitor center. The existing center will be converted into administrative offices. The foundation for the new center has been poured and construction is well on its way.

The new Red Rock Canyon Visitor Center is slated to open in 2010.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

A climber belays up a follower in a Single Pitch Instructor
Course run by AAI Guide Jason Martin last week.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for North Cascades National Park.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Webcam for Mount Rainier National Park.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Great Fall weather in the Pacific Northwest over the weekend lead to a number of successful ascents. This party party found good conditions on the Southwest Couloir of South Early Winter Spire. However, it sounds like the approach included some difficulties. This party climbed Mount Saint Helens and found people taking pictures of a woman in a bikini on the summit...which is weird.

--There is some snow in the mountains, not much, but some. And with any type of snow come the backcountry skiers. This party skied the Coleman Pinnacle. This party found poor ski conditions on Mount Adams.

SIERRA:

--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--A very cool, very photo-heavy trip report for a trip to the Needles may be found here.

--Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort is completely open from top to bottom. California in-bounds skiers have been getting after it for a few weeks now!

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

Climbers high on Denali in 2008
Photo by Jeremy Ellison

--The Alaska season is over until April of 2009, but we are already in the process of gearing up for it. We are now accepting applications for our 2009 Denali expeditions. Here are some reasons that you should think about climbing Denali this year.

CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:

Climbing magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.

Ice Climbing in Washington

A few years ago, I was invited to participate in a segment on ice climbing for the public television show, Oregon Field Guide. Unfortunately for us all, I recently found clips from that episode on youtube.

After the producer called me, I got in touch with a few people who used to work here (Mark Allen and Gene Pires) as well as Alex Krawarik, whom I wrote an ice climbing guidebook with some time ago. Everybody was psyched to go out, climb some ice and be on television. A bit of the psyche drained away when we realized what this would really entail.

Though in shape, the camera crew wasn't used to long slogs in snow shoes. As such, it took us a long long time to get to the base of the routes. Neither of our objectives were in very good condition. Indeed, the route that Mark and I climbed was in terrible shape and took an extremely long time to send.

My favorite element of this video revolves around the fact that they put a microphone next to my mouth. As a result, while I'm climbing low-angled ice my breathing sounds as if I'm completely and utterly worked; whereas everybody else climbs in complete silence...apparently not breathing at all...





--Jason D. Martin

November and December Climbing Events

--November 19 -- Las Vegas, NV -- LVCLC Meeting

--November 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Climbing in China

--November 20 -- San Francisco, CA -- North America Wall

--November 22 -- Seattle, WA -- Seattle Bouldering Challenge

--November 22 -- Bellevue, WA -- Ski Mountaineering in the Central Caucasus

--November 28-30 -- Los Angeles, CA -- ATS Outdoor Adventure Festival

--November 30 -- Contest -- Defenders of Wildlife Writing Contest

--December 2 -- Bellingham, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival Tour

--December 3-5 -- Seattle, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival Tour

--December 11-13 -- Mora, MN -- Sandstone Ice Festival

5 Reasons You Should Climb Denali in 2009

AAI climber Will Baumann reaches the top of the fixed lines
on the West Buttress, Denali. Coley Gentzel

1. The State of the Economy. So the rumor has it that the country is in an econimoc recession. Some have felt it, some haven't, but those that watch the news, listen to the radio, and read the paper are hearing plenty about it. We say, what better way to distract yourself from reality then to stand on top of the highest mountain on this continent? Nothing like a little personal accomplishment on a large scale to help you forget stock market woes!

2. Politics and Religion. I am not sure about other guides, but on my trips, one of the only hard and fast rules we have is that discussion on politics and religion must be kept light and short. If you've had your fill of Palin, Obama, he said, she said and the like, fear not, you can escape with us for a few weeks.

3. Denali Registration Fee, aka Money. Another hot topic as of late is that there is a proposal on the table at Denali National Park to raise their mountaineering use fee from $200 per person to $500 per person in 2010. If you want to sneak in while the price is low and save yourself a few hundred bucks, 2009 would be the time to do it.

4. There is no time like the present, an oft used and sometimes abused statement that continues to ring true regardless of context. I have always been of the "use it while you got it" mentality. The reality is that none of us are getting younger, and so you might as well give it a shot sooner rather than later. Don't let, "maybe next year" turn into a decade. With regard to training, it is easier to keep up than catch up and if you have been maintaining a good base of fitness for a while now in preparation for something cool, now could be the perfect time to step it up and give Denali a go.

5. What Else are you going to Do? Take a cruise? Go sit on the beach for a week or two? Hey wait, that doesn't sound half bad. No really now, isn't 2009 a great time to change the scenery, check out what Alaska has to offer, and finally climb in one of the "Great Ranges of the World?"

Jaime Garis and an AAI team step onto the summit of Denali. Coley Gentzel

So now that you are thoroughly and completely convinced that 2009 is the year to climb Denali, the next question you might ask could be "Why Should I Go with You?" You shouldn't. Not without some homework that is. There are a lot of differences between services and programs on Denali. Our Denali program page details our approach to this climb and history on the mountain, including a wealth of information on training, gear, and the climb itself. Check it out and give me a call if you want to talk more about your qualifications and how those compare to the requirements for joining the trip.

Coley Gentzel
Alaska Programs Coordinator and Guide

AAI Gary Kuehn leads a team to the top of Motorcycle Hill. Coley Gentzel

A 2008 AAI team on the summit of Denali. Coley Gentzel

Free Winter Clinics in Bellingham

This winter (beginning next week!), the American Alpine Institute will be running a free clinic series at our Equipment Shop. All clinics will be run by our winter ski and avalanche guides based in Washington.

Here are the program dates for the next couple months:

November 19:
An Introduction to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding - an overview of required gear, skiing techniques, and places to go

December 10:
Avalanche Awareness Seminar - an introduction to safety in the backcountry

January 21:
Backcountry Skiing in the Pacific Northwest - a slideshow and discussion hosted by AAI guides

Colorado Day Four: Confidence in Eldorado Canyon

Jello's comments in italicsMy body stiffened the instant I woke up, and I held my breath. I would have been less unsettled had I not heard the thumping of feet on the other side of the wall. An uneasy tightness gripped my jaw, and I struggled to remain quiet while my lungs pleaded for air. Not wanting to move an inch, I let my eyes do the inspection: a naked desk sat in front of a set of

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!

Welcome warriors to our weekend of weird. Yep, we've got a newscaster struggling, a robot sending and just to make sure our weirdness isn't too weird, we also have a couple of climbers deep in the Canadian wilderness ripping it up...

So apparently a sports reporter in Montana has a segment entitled, "How Hard Can it Be?" Yep, you know where this is going. In one segment he attempts indoor rock climbing. His white tube socks and red headband definitely did not help him to send. Check out this hilarious video below.



Okay, this one's a bit weird but also cool and very sci-fi. These dudes created a robot which can climb just about anything. This crazy contraption gives new meaning to the term, "sendbot."



Okay after that weirdness, we definitely need something to get you stoked. So check this out. This couple is in the Ghost River Valley of Alberta on a climb called Beowulf, WI4. The combination of the great music and the cool climbing is just what the doctor ordered to bring on the stoke!

Choosing a Solo Tent

Perhaps the most common question that our first year guides ask is, "what kind of tent do you recommend?" I actually remember asking that very same question myself as I started my guide career and I subsequently made a big mistake.

The first tent that I bought for guiding was a Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 which is a great tent. The thing is utterly bomb-proof, but clocks in at nearly ten pounds. Even when one splits such a tent with his partner, it is still a tremendously heavy piece of equipment. Unfortunately, as a guide you spend so much time in the field that you are often need to have your own tent for a little private time. During the summer season a guide's tent becomes a guide's home - a home that one carries by himself weighing almost ten pounds is an incredibly heavy abode.

Mountain Hardwear Trango 2

Every now and then I was lucky enough that our shop manager would let me borrow one of the one-man tents that we rent. I often borrowed the four season one man MSR Fury. This extremely heavy-duty tent is no longer made as a solo tent. It now only comes in a two-person version. This is a good thing, because the door in the vestibule on the one-man version was nearly impossible to get in and out of. One had to contort his body in multiple strange ways in order to get in or out of the tent.

MSR Fury

Many guides chose to go with small two-man single-wall tents like the Black Diamond/Bibbler Ahwahnee or the Black Diamond Firstlight. Others are big fans of the solo double-wall Hilleberg Akto. I personally hate single-wall tents in the Cascades. They often leak after a few years of use. And the Hilleberg tents have a somewhat confusing system wherein the tent and the fly are permanently attached to one another. This system often requires additional time to figure out when you set it up.

Personal prejudices toward the preceding tents aside, many of our guides have found these options to work exceedingly well. And it is important to understand that each individual has different needs and desires. Considering that, many of the options previously listed might work very well for you...

Eventually I decided that it was time to purchase a one-man tent of my own. I ended up with a very light option, but again something that wasn't terribly functional. I purchased a Mountain Hardwear Halcyon one-man tent.

Mountain Hardware Halcyon

There were three problems with the Halcyon. First, the entire inside of the tent was made of mesh. This kept the inside of the tent cold and allowed muddy water to splash in from below the rainfly. Second, I wasn't able to sit-up inside the tent. It was too short. And third, the tent was not free-standing, which is a huge pain in the rear. Each of these problems were enough to make the tent worthless on their own, but together they made the tent less than worthless, they made the tent pure garbage. As such, I got rid of it and invested in a much cheaper but more functional one man tent.

Approximately two years ago I bought a double-wall REI Chrysalis UL tent. This was a much warmer one man tent that allowed plenty of room for me to sit up inside. There wasn't very much mesh on the tent at all and it was completely freestanding. After all of my experimentation this was by far the best one-man tent that I encountered.

REI Chrysalis UL Tent without the fly

The problem with this tent of course, is that they no longer make it. And indeed, they have not replaced it with anything similar. Unfortunately, it looks like when my tent wears out I'll have to start a new quest for another one-man tent that works.

--Jason D. Martin