Note: This article was first published in the July 2006 issue of Climbing Magazine. It is reprinted here by permission of the author, a senior guide at AAI.
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Choosing the Right Kicks
It was late October and I was standing at the trailhead for California’s Palisade Glacier deliberating over an assortment of footwear. A pair of rock shoes, a pair of leather boots, a pair of approach shoes and finally a pair of plastic boots all lay before me, but which was the right tool for the job? Our itinerary included a long approach, rock-and-ice climbing, and potentially slogging through deep snow. These variable conditions and mediums made the decision as to what I should bring quite difficult.
Alpine climbing in the world’s different ranges requires a wide assortment of footwear. An important but often underrated skill of alpinism is selecting the appropriate footwear for the job at hand. The following is a breakdown of footwear options, and their backcountry niches.
Rock Shoes
Rock Shoes
On strenuous alpine rock routes, climbers often wear comfortable “all-day” shoes. In the mountains, rock shoes should be reserved for high-end pitches, as they are most effective when conditions are dry and not too cold, with little-or-no snow to negotiate on the route. The sticky rubber on rock shoes does not perform well in temperatures below freezing; and if you are in such temperatures it is likely that you’ll want more covering your foot than a light rock shoe anyway. Most alpine climbers prefer to wear rock shoes on routes that are 5.8 or harder.
Approach Shoes
Approach Shoes
Sticky-rubber approach shoes are becoming popular on alpine routes, especially after the snow melts and approaches are made on dry trails. However, some climbers do strap lightweight crampons to these shoes in order to cross small glaciers or late-summer snowfields. Approach shoes are a great lightweight option for fast ascents of easy alpine terrain. It is not uncommon for recreational alpinists to lead up to 5.8 in them.
There are, however, two disadvantages to approach shoes. The first is that they don’t provide appropriate support for hiking with a heavy backpack, and the second is that they will get wet and cold if it snows. In addition to this, it is important to note that once the sticky rubber on approach shoes gets cold, the rubber feels slippery and hard, especially when walking on ice. Climbers should be cautious when using approach shoes in these conditions.
Leather Boots
There are, however, two disadvantages to approach shoes. The first is that they don’t provide appropriate support for hiking with a heavy backpack, and the second is that they will get wet and cold if it snows. In addition to this, it is important to note that once the sticky rubber on approach shoes gets cold, the rubber feels slippery and hard, especially when walking on ice. Climbers should be cautious when using approach shoes in these conditions.
Leather Boots
As leather boots become increasingly technical, their alpine uses continue to grow. Most leather boots climb both rock and ice relatively well. Some lightweight leathers are tailored more for rock climbing, whereas heavier leathers have an ice climbing focus. The primary difference between the two focuses is often the amount of insulation in the boot.
Most alpinists are comfortable leading low fifth-class rock in leather boots, though it should be noted that climbers who purposefully train in them will be able to climb mid-to-upper fifth-class rock as well. Obviously, leather boots then are an excellent choice for situations wherein you might encounter combinations of snow, ice, and moderate rock climbing.
There are three disadvantages to leather boots, however. First, some of the heavier leather boots are difficult to break in, and can cause serious blistering during this process. Second, most leathers have a full shank in the sole so they don’t smear well. And third, they are difficult to dry out once they become sodden.
Plastic Double Boots
Most alpinists are comfortable leading low fifth-class rock in leather boots, though it should be noted that climbers who purposefully train in them will be able to climb mid-to-upper fifth-class rock as well. Obviously, leather boots then are an excellent choice for situations wherein you might encounter combinations of snow, ice, and moderate rock climbing.
There are three disadvantages to leather boots, however. First, some of the heavier leather boots are difficult to break in, and can cause serious blistering during this process. Second, most leathers have a full shank in the sole so they don’t smear well. And third, they are difficult to dry out once they become sodden.
Plastic Double Boots
Though plastics are the least precise and the heaviest of all alpine footwear, they are the warmest and easiest to dry out in the backcountry. On Cascade volcanoes, on the flanks of Denali, and on alpine ice climbs, plastic double boots perform extremely well.
Few climbers use plastic boots on routes that require a significant amount of rock climbing, as smearing and other technical foot placements can be quite difficult when wearing plastics. Climbing in crampons while wearing plastics is a bit more precise than without crampons in plastics. However, they still feel less technical than leathers with crampons for difficult mixed climbing.
As with leathers, plastics come in lighter and heavier duty models. The lighter models have a lower profile and climb a little better on rock and ice. Heavy plastics, however, are bulky and feel imprecise, but they are built primarily for warmth in extreme alpine-and-arctic environments.
Decision Time
Few climbers use plastic boots on routes that require a significant amount of rock climbing, as smearing and other technical foot placements can be quite difficult when wearing plastics. Climbing in crampons while wearing plastics is a bit more precise than without crampons in plastics. However, they still feel less technical than leathers with crampons for difficult mixed climbing.
As with leathers, plastics come in lighter and heavier duty models. The lighter models have a lower profile and climb a little better on rock and ice. Heavy plastics, however, are bulky and feel imprecise, but they are built primarily for warmth in extreme alpine-and-arctic environments.
Decision Time
In order to choose the appropriate footwear for your climb, spend some time researching the route. What are you likely to encounter? Snow, ice, difficult rock climbing, or a mixture of all three? In addition to knowing what to expect, make sure you know your limits. How hard can you climb in each type of footwear? These two factors will play the largest role in your decision as to what you will wear. If you know you’re going somewhere cold that will also require low-end technical rock moves, it’s a good idea to take your intended footwear to the crag or the gym and get comfortable climbing the necessary grade with the additional challenges of stiffness and a potentially clunky-feeling (compared to your rock shoes) boot.
Choosing appropriate footwear for an alpine outing is a skill set that takes as much time, experience, and refinement as learning a new technique. And even the experts get it wrong sometimes. For instance, I chose a pair of lightweight leathers for my Sierra trip and they climbed like a charm … but my feet were cold.
Choosing appropriate footwear for an alpine outing is a skill set that takes as much time, experience, and refinement as learning a new technique. And even the experts get it wrong sometimes. For instance, I chose a pair of lightweight leathers for my Sierra trip and they climbed like a charm … but my feet were cold.
--Jason D. Martin
