Get to Know Your Guide: An interview with Viren Perumal

Every week, we take the reader into the interesting and ever-changing life of an American Alpine Institute guide. Every AAI guide is very experienced in alpine and rock climbing, and all have received professional training in advanced guiding techniques and rescue. Collectively they have one of the highest levels of wilderness first aid, avalanche, and Leave No Trace training among the world's international guide services.

This week, we interview Viren Perumal.

Age: 26
Hometown: Collegedale, TN (at least that's where my truck is registered but haven't actually lived there in almost 5 years)
Recent trips and expeditions with AAI: I just got off a 12 day Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Part 1 course, and I am leaving for Denali in a few days. I have been basking in the desert sun all winter, guiding long multi-pitch sandstone routes outside of Las Vegas and splitter granite cracks in Joshua tree. I also did some ice climb guiding in Lee Vining (California) this past winter.
Upcoming courses with AAI: I'll be on the West Buttress of Denali for June. For the rest of the summer, it looks like my trips will include the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, the White Salmon glacier on Mt. Shuksan, a Mt. Rainier trip, and I am also possibly looking at a Bugaboos trip in August.

A Guide’s Life
How old were you when you first started climbing?
I actually grew up in Thailand, India, Malaysia, eastern Canada, and finally moved to Tennessee when I was 12. I had gone camping a few times with my parents – car camping style, but it wasn't until 8th grade in the Appalachian foothills that I went on my first overnight backpacking trip. I was a junkshow and my pack almost outweighed me. That 2-night, 6-mile trip seemed like the longest trip of my life. I ended up trying to get out and camp as much as possible the
following years in high school and also began rock climbing. That soon took over most of my free time, and I finally had something healthy to put all my energy into.

I think the thing that really locked it in for me was that early in high school I was starting to get into trouble, and actually got expelled from a school I was going to – it was that following summer that my friend Rocky took me out rock climbing for my first time and I realized this was something I could be really into and would keep me from hanging out with my friends at home who just wanted to party. Rock climbing soon consumed me and all the money I made that summer at a landscaping job went to shoes a harness and other types of climbing gear. After high school in the southeast, I wanted to climb big mountains. I moved up to go to college in western Canada, which is where I had my first exposure to real mountaineering and ice climbing.


How do you stay in shape, and what are your favorite training activities?
Uhhhh who said I was in shape??? Well I guess I just climb – always wish I co
uld climb more. And training??? Wow that sounds like a lot of work – I just go play – pull ups are fun for me I suppose.

Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
Maybe Yvonne Chouinard or people like Peter Croft who are full on energizer bunnies. They still keep on climbing because they just love it. In general, the people who climb more than they talk about climbing are pretty inspiring to me. I saw Fred Becky climbing ice in Hyalite (Montana) almost two winters ago when I was out there – that guy is pretty amazing - I think he is almost 90 years old, but he loves it so much
.

What are your other interests besides climbing?
I love rivers and whitewater kayaking. I have also tried surfing a bit, and love that, but I get trashed pretty good when I go. I have been trying to learn to play the mandolin as well, but it is hard with the number of days I spend in the backcountry.

I also teach wilderness medicine for Wilderness Medicine Institute and will also be teaching at a University in Tennessee this fall. I guess being a more intentional and organized teacher is a current interest of mine – I can already see it helping the flow of my guide days and courses.


Where is your favorite place to travel?
I have mostly only been able to travel places where my truck can drive. But East Creek Basin in the Bugaboos is one of my favorite places in the world. I have spent some time rock climbing on the beaches of Thailand and don't have to much to complain about that, but anytime I can get my hands into a splitter crack in some remote alpine granite I am usually pretty happy.

Where do you hope to travel in the near future?
My wife Julie and I have thrown around going to Arapalies (Australia) to climb for a while next winter.

On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style
.
I could say something predictable like "I like to climb fast and light" or "clean climbing is my style" but growing up in Tennessee I would have to describe my climbing style as "Git 'er Done." I like big rock routes in the mountains and sometimes you end up pulling through and moving fast – my wide crack climbing can sometimes feel like a grovel but I love every second of it.
What has been your most technically difficult climb?
5.fun – I don't know. I have climbed 5.12 before but hanging on sport routes is less appealing to me than long traditional routes where numbers are not as important as the aesthetics of the line. Some of my favorites are routes like the Becky-Chouinard on S.Howser.

What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
Strength to weight ratio – (you don't have to be strong if you don't weigh anything). Also, probably being super motivated to get out and explore new routes and areas. My weakness is my lack of interest in training and things like bouldering or hard sport routes – when I start falling off a few times, I am ready to go find some beautiful crack J. I suppose that my weakness is that I love crack climbing and alpine climbing so much that it makes me less of a well-rounded climber.


A Guide on Guiding

When you guide, what piece of advice do you find you give most often to climbers?
I wish I had the ability to take a climbing course when I was younger – they are super spendy, but I always tell my students that in a 12-day course most students come out knowing more than I learned by trial and error and reading books in probably five years of climbing (granted I was a high school kid in Tennessee learning to climb).

What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
Humor
Patience
Effective teacher
Energy
Passion for what they are doing!


Name a few guide “turn-ons” (for example, what makes a good climber on one of your courses, ascents, or expeditions?).
Sometimes I teach people who are just curious about the sport, and then often I teach others who are going to take what I teach them and start leading/climbing on their own. I love to teach people like that, because they are soaking up anything I can share with them and it makes me more motivated to overload them with information.

Any memorable events while guiding for AAI?
Any trip is great when I get to teach a longer course or have somebody multiple times. I get super psyched to see the amount of change and growth in their comfort levels and skills. This is always super rewarding for any guide.

What are your must-haves? Favorite foods or gear?
Uhh . . . anything that Deals Only has on sale in Bellingham (Washington) I guess. Also, cheese is always a good thing and I have been taking these sun dried tomato tofurkey sausages up on mountaineering trips. They've got loads of calories and, well, meat out in the sun for a few days scares me. I really like to cook and eat well because I need to keep the calories up. I usually bring whatever has the most bang for buck.
Describe your achievement of which you are the most proud.
I think getting married to Julie was to me kind of like a big alpine route: really beautiful, but kind of intimidating because there were a bunch of unknowns. We were on the "10 year dating plan" when we finally decided to get married, and all the unknowns kind of scared the crap out of me, but it has been the greatest thing in the world. For my simple life, that is a pretty enormous achievement.

Any closing comments?
Life is short – many climbers have dreams that they put on the shelf until they find out that it is a little late to do all the things they used to want to do. Dream big and live those dreams – If you want something bad enough you will make it happen.

I'm looking forward to a big chunk of time off to road trip/travel/climb with Julie.

Conditions Report -- May 28, 2008

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--The Icicle River Road was covered by a mudslide last week at mile marker 15. This is beyond most of the climbing, but does limit access to campgrounds.

SIERRA:

--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--This website has snow reports for ski resorts throughout the Alps.

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Temperatures spiked up well into the 100s last week and then dropped significantly. The weather is definitely becoming less stable. Real heat which equals the end of the climbing season is right around the corner.

--There are open campsites at the 13 Mile Campground. The campground closes at the end of the month for the summer.

--The Red Rock Scenic Drive is now open from 6 in the morning until 8 in the evening

--If you are doing a long route and don’t think that you’ll be back to the car by 8, then be sure to call 702-515-5050 to obtain a late exit permit.

--A new parking lot is currently under construction at the start of the Black Velvet Road. If you wish to climb in Black Velvet Canyon you will need to access it via an alternative route.


MOUNT EVEREST:

--Summit conditions on Mount Everest are updated every day here.

May and June Climbing Events

NORTHWEST:

--June 15-16 -- Leavenworth -- Feathered Friends Rockfest 2008

RED ROCK CANYON:

--May 28 -- Las Vegas -- Las Vegas Climber's Liason Council Meeting -- Enterprise Library, 7 PM

--June 18 -- Las Vegas/Henderson -- Las Vegas Climber's Liasion Council Meeting -- Henderson REI, 7:00 PM

NOTES FROM ALL OVER:

--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. for more info, click here.

--May 31-June 1 -- New York, NY -- (Rubin Museum, New York City)Peak Experience III, the ultimate sleepover, 40 kids, aged 10-12 and roped together alpine-style, confront the challenges of climbing Everest. Along the way they learn the scientific and medical aspects of mountaineering from experienced guides and Sherpas. Parents of potential registrants as well as AAC volunteer guides should contact Phil Earad.

ACCESS FUND ADOPT-A-CRAG EVENTS:

June 17 -- Sandstone, MN -- Robinson Park Clean-Up, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Minnesota Climbers Association and the city of Sandstone. Glenn Burns, glenn.burns@gmail.com

June 18 -- Taylor Falls, MN -- The Taylors Falls Clean-Up an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the Minnesota Climbers Association, Mid-West Mountaineering, and Minnesota DNR. Glenn Burns, glenn.burns@gmail.com

June 23 -- Franklin Gorge, WV -- The 2nd Annual Franklin Traildaze & Crankfest, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Punishers, Inc. Starts at 3pm May 23rd ending through Midnight May 26th. Camping and Cabins available, more information available at: www.rockclimbing.com. Michael Gray, roninorne@rockclimbing.com

June 31 -- Colorado Springs, CO -- The Ute Valley Climbing Comp & Clean-Up, a TeamWorks Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the ROCK Climbing Center Junior Team, Front Range Climbing Company, the Mountain Chalet, and REI Colorado Springs. Lara Groshong, info@climbingtherock.com

June 7 -- Lewis and Clark State Park, OR -- The 5th Annual Broughton's Bush Whack & BBQ, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Access Fund Regional Coordinator Tony Holmes, Climb Max Mountaineering, Next Adventure and the Stoneworks Climbing Gym Youth Team. Tony Holmes, nwwilderness@aol.com

June 7 -- Atlanta, GA -- Boat Rock Trail Day, a Teamworks Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Atlanta Rocks, the Southeast Climbers Coalition and REI Buford. Website: www.seclimbers.org, Brad McLeod, mbmcleod@mindspring.com

June 8 -- Blue Mounds State Park, MN -- The Blue Mounds Clean-Up, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the Minnesota Climbers Association and Minnesota DNR, Glenn Burns, glenn.burns@gmail.com

June 8 -- The Monastery, CO -- The Monastery Clean-Up, an event hosted by the Kent Mountain Adventure Center, CAnyon Lakes National Forest Ranger District, and the New Belgium Brewery. Reed Woodford, kmac@frill.com

First Day at Farley

After Saturday's fun at Cathedral, it was time to stay somewhat local and try something new. "KITT" and "RRC" met at my place at 8am this morning, and we headed off to Farley Cliffs in Erving, MA to explore what we had heard were a few sport climbs in the middle of nowhere. We wanted to judge the ease of getting there, the quality of the climbs, and how many there were. The verdict?Farley sucks!

Popular Anchor Acronyms

Over the last decade, the use of anchor acronyms has become quite popular. For awhile, it seemed like everybody had a different acronym for the "ideal" anchor. Following are a few examples of anchor acronyms:

RENE

Rumor has it that this term was initially coined by an east coast guide. As I am unable to independently verify the truth of this, I'm going to keep his name out of this blog. In any case, the preceding acronym stands for:

R - Redundant
E - Equalized
N - No
E - Extention

"Redundant" simply means that there is more than one element involved in every aspect of the system. "Equalized" means that the all the weight is evenly distributed. "No Extention" means that if one piece fails, the anchor will not shockload other parts of the system.

John Long's How to Rock Climb series added an element to the acronym. In his books he began to use SRENE. The RENE part remained the same, but he added the "S". This stood for "secure" or "strong." In other words, are all the pieces strong and secure?

The 2008 AMGA Single Pitch Instructor manual added another letter to the acronym. In this recent publication they made the acronym, SERENE. The new "E" stood for "effective;" as in, was the construction of this anchor quick? Was it well-placed? Does it do the job without too much equipment or fuss?

Popular books like Freedom of the Hills, Rock Climbing: Mastering the Basic Skills, and Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher have gone a completely different route. Instead of SERENE, they use ERNEST.

E - Equalized
R - Redundant
N - No
E - Extention
S - Secure/Solid
T - Timely

The only real addition to this particular acronym is the "T" for "timely" which could well equate to the "E" for "effective."

When all is said and done, it doesn't really matter which acronym you prefer. It doesn't matter as long as your anchors are RENE, SRENE, SERENE and ERNEST...

--Jason D. Martin

AAI/AC Everest Team Summit on May 24th

The main AAI/AC Everest Team summited at 6:53am on Saturday, May 24th! Within this group, Cheryl and Niki Barton from Australia were the first mother and daughter team to ever summit Everest - congratulations! Check out their photo on the right.

The descent is going smoothly so far, and everyone seems to be happy to be in thicker air. To check out our most recent dispatches, click here.

Congratulations to:
Robyn Faike
Ang Dorjee Sherpa
Cheryl Bart
Nikki Bart
Victor Saunders
Philip Drowley
Steven Novick
Hedd-wynn Williams
Carol Masheter
Michael Roberts
Lydia Bradey
Lhakpa Dorjee Sherpa
Phu Tashi Sherpa
Dawa Zangbu Sherpa
Sangay Dorjee Sherpa
Ang Sona Sherpa
Pemba Choti Sherpa
Tendi Sherpa
Namgyal Sherpa
Passang Bhote #1
Passang Bhote #2
Nima Tenzing Sherpa

KITT's First Trad Lead

Little did we know that Saturday would be a day of two momentous events: "KITT"'s first ever trad lead, and another one of Greg's entries into God's Official Monologue Registry.Thin Air (5.6) - Two or Four Pitches - Trad - Varied Anchors - Greg LedPitch One / Two (5.5 / 5.6) - 50 / 100 feet - Fixed anchors - Greg ledWe arrived Friday night amid surprisingly light traffic for the Friday of

Into the weekend

Memorial Day weekend is here and so far, there hasn't been any chaos on the mountain. Surprisingly, the weather was quite pleasant today (Saturday) so getting to a high camp was actually reasonable. There is an update on the Muir Snowfield conditions, a new post on the Emmons Route, as well as a few recent aerial images that have been added to the Kautz, Mowich and Success routes. Photos by Stefan Lofgren.

We are also doing our part to keep you up to date about the changes to the road conditions, access and road openings.

If you've climbed this weekend, send us a report.

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!

This week we're bringing you on a journey of discovery.

First, discover Sender Films. This is the production company that brought you Scary Faces and Return to Sender. They have a preview of their new film out. BareFOOT in BOHEMIA is currently being shot throughout Europe.

Second, discover world class alpine climbing and world class alpine climbing philosophies with world class alpine climber, Kelly Cordes. To see his video, click here.

And third, discover some sick moves on a totally sick mixed rock and ice climb. To see some sickness, click here.

Get to Know Your Guide: An interview with Angela Seidling

Every week, we take the reader into the interesting and ever-changing life of an American Alpine Institute guide. Every AAI guide is very experienced in alpine and rock climbing, and all have received professional training in advanced guiding techniques and rescue. Collectively they have one of the highest levels of wilderness first aid, avalanche, and Leave No Trace training among the world's international guide services.

This week, we interview Angela Seidling.

Age: 29
Hometown: Everett, Washington
Recent trips and expeditions with AAI: Alpinism 1 on Mt. Baker and Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership
Upcoming courses with AAI: Denali, then back to the Cascades

A Guide’s Life
How old were you when you first started climbing?
The first time I climbed was at an indoor wall on an 8th grade field trip in Wiscon
sin. Apparently, it didn't leave much of an impression because I didn't try climbing again until college. I moved to Missoula (Montana) in 1997 and it was there that I really started climbing. After realizing how much I enjoyed just climbing at the local crags, my climbs naturally progressed to become longer and harder. I soon found myself completely enamored by alpine climbing.

How do you stay in shape, and what are your favorite training activities?
I stay in shape by doing the things that I love to do, and lucky for me, those hobb
ies involve being active.

Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
I'm definitely a fan of burly women who climb. How can you
not be inspired by women like Lynn Hill and Steph Davis?

What are your other interests besides climbing?
Running, skiing, kayaking, sailing, spending time with my husband and our dogs.

Where is your favorite place to travel? Where do you hope to travel in the near future?
We went to Peru recently a
nd it was amazing - the purpose of the trip was to climb; needless to say, the mountains were magnificent. The people we encountered were just as incredible; they were consistently kind and helpful and the children were always so curious - they had as many questions for me as I had for them. As far as future travels, the list is endless. One place that does stand out is ski mountaineering in India.

On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style
.
I'm not really sure that I have a specific "style." I'd love to be able to say graceful, but that would be stretching it, especially after such a long and fantastic ski season with climbing gear neglected in the storage unit. The style of climbing that I prefer is alpine climbing. Maybe it's because most of my climbing so far has been in Montana, but my favorite climbs are the ones that involve a lot of rock with a lot of open space and not many other people around.

What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
My biggest strength is that I'm stubborn and when I have a goal, I see to it that it gets accomplished. My biggest weakness is that climbing only gets a fraction of my time because there are so many other things I like to do.


A Guide on Guiding

When you guide, what piece of advice do you find you give most often to climbers?
Take good care of yourself! Eat, drink, wear sunscreen.

What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
I think a guide should be p
ositive and patient, they need to be able to make good decisions, and they absolutely need to love their job!

Name a few guide “turn-ons” (for example, what makes a good climber on one of your courses, ascents, or expeditions?).
Someone who has a good attitude and is genuinely interested in learning and participating in the course.


Any memorable events while guiding for AAI?
Being the guide for a group
of friends that had been planning their climb for months as the "Man Trip." I'm pretty certain that having a female guide for the "Man Trip" wasn't in the original plans, but it's safe to say that everyone found the humor in it and a good time was had by all!

What are your must-haves? Favorite foods or gear?
Coffee and chocolate.

Memorial Day Weekend Campground Closures

The following email came into the AAI office this morning:
  • This Memorial Day weekend hikers and campers may discover their favorite trails and campgrounds under several feet of snow in the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, in spite of warm spring weather. A long and late winter with record snowpack at low elevations is to blame.

  • Of the 34 campgrounds normally open for Memorial Day, 24 are open, snow has postponed opening 10 and closed most of the trails. “I haven’t seen conditions like this in the 15 years I have been on the forest, with the snow so low and so late in the spring,” said Rodney Mace, forest recreation staff officer. He said more than a foot of snow blocks the road on the Mountain Loop Highway Deer Creek gate, which at only 1,200 feet elevation is usually open this time of year, and the snow depth tops six feet at Barlow Pass. “We had unprecedented snowpack this year and above 2,000 feet elevation you will encounter continuous snowfields, or lower, if the area is shaded,” he said.

  • Campground openings that have been postponed include Silver Springs until May 30, and the following until June 13: Denny Creek, Miller River Group, Beaver Creek Group, Coal Creek Group, Wiley Creek Group, North and South Bayview, Mineral Park, and Silver Fir. Visitors can check campground opening dates by calling 541-338-7869, Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. and Saturday, 9 a.m.-1 p.m.; and 541-822-3799, Saturday and Sunday, 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; or, by going to www.hoodoo.com.

  • People who have reserved campgrounds that have been closed due to snow can negotiate a new date or get their money back by contacting the National Recreation Reservation System at www.recreation.gov or calling HooDoo at the above numbers. For updated information about road and trail conditions go to the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest site at: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/.

  • “Even if the roads were ploughed, there would be no place to go, nowhere to park and avalanche hazard,” Mace added. Warm and wet weather raises avalanche danger, according to the Northwest Avalanche Center, which advises the public to check its website at http://www.nwac.us/ before visiting the forest.

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- May 22nd

NORTHWEST:

--A massive mudslide washed over the Icicle Creek Road this week. Campgrounds beyond the 15 mile point may be completely inaccessible over the busy Memorial Day weekend. To read more, click here.

--The Paradise Inn on Mount Rainier re-opened on Friday after a two-year renovation. To read about it, click here.

--Hugh Herr is extremely well known here in the Pacific Northwest for being the second person to free climb City Park, a 5.13c finger crack in Index. It was a controversial ascent though. You see, Hugh is a double amputee. Some tried to disparage his ascent. They tried to call it aid because he had special feet made in order to climb the crack. To read his back story, click here. Hugh is in the news again because he is designing special feet for a double amputee who wants to compete in the Olympics. To read about it, click here.

ALASKA:

--AAI Denali Team I summited on May 18th!

--AAI Denali Team II is currently at the 14,000 foot camp.

--The AAI Ice Ager expedition on Denali has reached Camp I. They intend on moving up to a camp between Camp I and Camp II at 10,500 feet today.

--Zoe Hart and Maxime Turgeon just completed the first all female ascent of Mount Hunter's Deprivation. To read about this incredible ascent, click here. A second report written by Turgeon can be found here.


NOTES FROM ALL OVER:

--An online Altitude Simulator was recently launched here. The highly sophisticated medical simulation allows viewers to watch all the changes that take place in the body as one gets higher and higher in the mountains. It's kind of techy, but really cool!

--A pair of strong climbers completed a new route on Ama Dablam in early May. Free Tibet 2065 ascends the face between two Japanese routes, the first put up in 1985 and the second in 1980. The new Grade V+ route climbs a 1500 meter feature with hard M5+ 80 degree climbing throughout. To read about the climb, click here.

Conditions Report -- May 21, 2008

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--The road to Schriber's Meadows on the south side of Mount Baker is almost completely closed due to snow. As of Friday the approach to the trailhead was 6 miles!

--The last four miles of road to the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead on the north side of Mount Baker is still covered in snow.

--There is approximately a two mile approach to the Sulphide Glacier trailhead on Shannon Creek Road.

--The AAI office received a letter recently from the Forest Service asking not to drive around snowy sections of FS roads by driving off the road bed onto embankments or adjoining flat ground. Apparently this causes a lot of damage to the vegetation and can wreck the gradient drainage system on that section of the road. Rangers are currently ticketing individuals who do this. The punishment for breaking this rule includes not only a fine, but a requirement that the perpetrator cover the cost of rehabilitation. This can run from $900 to $3000. Recently rangers matched a tire print to a vehicle in a parking lot and caught the person. So be sure to stay on the roadbed.

--There is still a lot of snow everywhere, and there are a lot of people skiing and climbing. This guy climbed the Northeast Buttress of Chair Peak. These guys skied Granite Mountain. And these guys skied the Tatoosh.


RED ROCK CANYON:

--On Monday, temperatures in Las Vegas spiked up to 108 degrees. It may cool down again for a little bit more climbing before the summer starts in earnest, but this may be our last report for Red Rock until it cools down in the fall.

--There are open campsites at the 13 Mile Campground. The campground closes at the end of the month for the summer.

--The Red Rock Scenic Drive is now open from 6 in the morning until 8 in the evening

--If you are doing a long route and don’t think that you’ll be back to the car by 8, then be sure to call 702-515-5050 to obtain a late exit permit.

--A new parking lot is currently under construction at the start of the Black Velvet Road. If you wish to climb in Black Velvet Canyon you will need to access it via an alternative route.

SIERRA:

--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali

--At 14,000 feet, AAI Guide Aiden Loher reports that it is extremely warm during the day and quite cold at night. The weather report doesn't look very good, but Aiden feels that they have been wrong for the last number of days.

--Lower on the mountain, AAI Guide Joseph Anderson reports that the glacier is totally filled in and the trail up to Camp 1 is in great shape. It is totally packed out and easy to follow. It was in the mid-twenties yesterday at Camp 1 and dropped down to about zero at night.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--This website has snow reports for ski resorts throughout the Alps.

MOUNT EVEREST:

--Summit conditions on Mount Everest are updated every day here. Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time. -24 C winds 30 knots from the southwest Just a few high clouds.

Denali Ice Agers on the Move

The Ice Agers (an older group of Denali Expedition climbers) have arrived in Alaska!


Alaska Program Coordinator Coley Gentzel has also just arrived in Alaska, and has sent us a quick update to let everyone know that "the Ice Ager's Expedition is off to a grand start here in Anchorage. The orientation and gear check went smooth like butter, and we have just returned from a lovely dinner (see photo below) courtesy of the Snow Goose restaurant here in Anchorage. As we have known for some time know, the group is well prepared and outside of a few odds and ends, the gang is ready for the transition to Talkeetna. Weather permitting, we will also head for the glacier tomorrow."



The team enjoys their dinner at the Snow Goose restaurant in Anchorage


"I think most folks will wander down to Peggy's restaurant for a 6:00am breakfast before catching the shuttle to Talkeetna at 7:00am tomorrow. The "continental" breakfast here at the hotel is well, more proof that the term "continental" must be french for less than exciting!"


"We are still awaiting the arrival of Jack Strickland, the final arrival on the expedition. He is to arrive in another hour or two, fresh from his daughter's graduation in Texas. As long as he gets in as scheduled, we will be on the road as of 7:00am tomorrow. We will make a brief pit stop in Wasilla enroute to Talkeetna. I don't know about the rest of the gang, but I will be looking forward to a cup of Alaska best coffee there, roasted locally by the Kaladi Brothers here in Anchorage."


The team walks around Anchorage and prepares for their departure to Talkeetna Monday morning


"At this point, you must be wondering why you are getting the dispatch from me. I am, for the day, an honorary Ice Ager's team member. I was able to meet up with the group for some socializing and dinner and will be hitching a ride to Talkeetna in the morning. It was great for me personally to finally meet and connect with folks that I have, in some cases, been working with for years. Ron Goodman, Art Huseonica, and Bob Baker have not been far from my daily work for quite a few years now. Seeing this team come together and start to coalesce and make progress is a fantastic reminder of the meaning behind what we as a company do. This is a great group of men and they are all here for the "right" reasons - to have a good time, further friendships, and to work together to try to accomplish this enormous task."


Team member Art Huseonica trains for Denali by pulling heavy loads on the beach


"The Alaska sun is still shining brightly despite the late hour, and we have an early morning tomorrow - goodbye for now." - Coley Gentzel


Please see the AAI Dispatches page for recent dispatches from all our teams on Denali!

Breaking News -- Highway 20 is Open

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from the Washington State Department of Transportation:

  • The gates near Diablo and Mazama swung open at 3 p.m. this afternoon allowing you to travel between the Skagit and Methow Valleys for the first time in 5 days. Yesterday, our avalanche crew found a large slide, blockingthe highway below Liberty #3. Heavy, wet snow, large rocks and tree debriscovered 200-feet of the highway to a depth of 25 to 35 feet. Our crews cleared the slides, repaired a sinkhole and cleared about a half dozen clogged culverts where avalanche chutes released and dumped snow and rocks on the shoulders. Photos of the slide and sinkhole can be viewed on the WSDOT flickr web site: www.flickr.com/photos/wsdot/sets/72157605163524499/
  • The snow has stabilized and weather forecasts don’t suggest any conditions that would close the highway for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend. It just might actually get to be spring!

Climbing Partner Needed

Wanted: Climbing PartnerLocation: New England / NYAbout Greg: Greg is a competent climber who is looking to expand his climbing grades into the 5.10 realm on trad and 5.11 on sport. He spends most of his time roaming weekend-to-weekend and camping at the base of Cathedral Ledge in North Conway, NH; across the street from Rattlesnake Mountain in Rumney, NH; uses Rumney as a launching ground for

Travel Safety in a Developing Country

Many of our guides spend a great deal of time traveling in developing nations. As tourists with expensive climbing and photography equipment, we are definitely seen as targets. Most of us who have spent significant amounts of time in South America or Asia have encountered some petty crime.

We spend time in cities as well as in open camps near the mountains. Each of the two environments have their own circumstances. In order to be safe and avoid theft, one must "follow the rules" in each of these environments. Following is a list of precautions that should be undertaken in any foreign environment:
  1. Many guides make a photocopy of their passports and carry it around the city. They put the passport itself in a hotel safe that they feel comfortable with.

  2. Use a money belt or money necklace. If you don't feel comfortable with the hotel safe, carry your passport in the money belt/necklace.

  3. When you first arrive in a country, be sure that you know what the currency looks like. One of our guides was once given change in play money shortly after he got off the plane in Bolivia.

  4. If you elect to wear a small backpack around the city, place luggage locks on the zippers. In crowds, wear the backpack on the front of your body so that you can see it. People will often try to open zippers when you are still. In extreme cases they may even attempt to cut open the bottom of the pack with a knife.

  5. As ATMs become more popular throughout the world, it has become easier to obtain money in developing countries with a debit card. This keeps one from carrying massive amounts of cash or hard-to-convert travelers checks. If you do choose to go this route, talk to your bank first. They may give you a list of "safe" ATMs in a city. If you don't have such a list, make sure that you use an ATM attached to a bank and be sure that you are aware of your surroundings before putting your card into the machine. Do not use a machine if there are any suspicious characters around.

  6. Beware of fake police and fake taxis. If someone flashes you a badge and then wants to see your money, be suspicious. If a taxi doesn't have appropriate documentation in the window, be suspicious.

  7. No matter how much you trust it, do not leave expensive items out in your hotel room.

  8. Do not wear expensive looking jewelry in public.

  9. You may choose to wear a "decoy wallet." In other words, you have a wallet that distracts a potential thief from going for the real thing. Never put your wallet in your back pocket. Even zippered pockets can be opened or cut by experienced thieves.

  10. Women should try not to respond to local men that approach them for no apparent reason in foreign countries, especially in patriarchal cultures. Even a curt "no" may be construed as the start of a conversation.

  11. Be wary of new romantic relationships with people in developing countries.

  12. If you pay for your hotel room in advance, be sure to obtain receipts.

  13. Beware of circumstances where people need help or are trying to help you. In other words, if somebody is trying to hand you a baby for some reason or is trying to help remove bird dung from your shoulder, be suspicious and watch your bags closely.

  14. Do not wander around a city in a developing country at the middle of the night while intoxicated.

  15. When camping underneath the mountains in a developing country, hire a cook. If you can, try to get one from a local outfitter. The cook will double as a camp guard while you are in the mountains.

  16. Be sure to bring all of you gear inside the vestibule of your tent at night. Do not leave anything of value outside.

  17. If you use animals to carry gear on your expedition, be sure that they are loaded appropriately. Don't let them put a sleeping bag on one animal and a tent on another so that they can charge you for more animals. In addition to this, make sure you know how many animals you hired. Sometimes locals don't keep track and round up in their estimations.
On AAI trips, the guides will always orient you to the particular dangers of a given city or camp. If you elect to climb in foriegn countries without a guide who is "in-the-know," then be sure to research the tourist oriented scams of your destination before you leave.

Traveling and climbing in developing countries can be incredibly exciting. But the excitement dissipates when something is stolen. Always keep your eyes open and be smart. This is the best way to keep your vacation on the right track.


--Jason D. Martin



May and June Climbing Events

NORTHWEST:

--May 23-26 -- Washington Pass -- Cascadeclimbers.com Ski-In

--May 25 -- Bellingham -- Ski to Sea relay multi-sport relay race.--For more outdoor and adventure author events in the Pacific Northwest, click here.

--June 15-16 -- Leavenworth -- Feathered Friends Rockfest 2008


RED ROCK CANYON:

--May 28 -- Las Vegas -- Las Vegas Climber's Liason Council Meeting -- Enterprise Library, 7 PM

--June 18 -- Las Vegas/Henderson -- Las Vegas Climber's Liasion Council Meeting -- Henderson REI, 7:00 PM


NOTES FROM ALL OVER:

--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. for more info, click here.

--May 17 -- North Conway, NH -- Kismet Jubilee -- The annual meeting of a foundation which brings climbing to economically disadvantaged children.

--May 23-26 -- Telluride, CO -- Telluride Mountain Film Festival

--May 31-June 1 -- New York, NY -- (Rubin Museum, New York City)Peak Experience III, the ultimate sleepover, 40 kids, aged 10-12 and roped together alpine-style, confront the challenges of climbing Everest. Along the way they learn the scientific and medical aspects of mountaineering from experienced guides and Sherpas. Parents of potential registrants as well as AAC volunteer guides should contact Phil Earad.

ACCESS FUND ADOPT-A-CRAG EVENTS:

June 17 -- Sandstone, MN -- Robinson Park Clean-Up, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Minnesota Climbers Association and the city of Sandstone. Glenn Burns, glenn.burns@gmail.com

June 18 -- Taylor Falls, MN -- The Taylors Falls Clean-Up an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the Minnesota Climbers Association, Mid-West Mountaineering, and Minnesota DNR. Glenn Burns, glenn.burns@gmail.com

June 23 -- Franklin Gorge, WV -- The 2nd Annual Franklin Traildaze & Crankfest, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Punishers, Inc. Starts at 3pm May 23rd ending through Midnight May 26th. Camping and Cabins available, more information available at: www.rockclimbing.com. Michael Gray, roninorne@rockclimbing.com

June 31 -- Colorado Springs, CO -- The Ute Valley Climbing Comp & Clean-Up, a TeamWorks Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the ROCK Climbing Center Junior Team, Front Range Climbing Company, the Mountain Chalet, and REI Colorado Springs. Lara Groshong, info@climbingtherock.com

June 7 -- Lewis and Clark State Park, OR -- The 5th Annual Broughton's Bush Whack & BBQ, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Access Fund Regional Coordinator Tony Holmes, Climb Max Mountaineering, Next Adventure and the Stoneworks Climbing Gym Youth Team. Tony Holmes, nwwilderness@aol.com

June 7 -- Atlanta, GA -- Boat Rock Trail Day, a Teamworks Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Atlanta Rocks, the Southeast Climbers Coalition and REI Buford. Website: www.seclimbers.org, Brad McLeod, mbmcleod@mindspring.com

June 8 -- Blue Mounds State Park, MN -- The Blue Mounds Clean-Up, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the Minnesota Climbers Association and Minnesota DNR, Glenn Burns, glenn.burns@gmail.com

June 8 -- The Monastery, CO -- The Monastery Clean-Up, an event hosted by the Kent Mountain Adventure Center, CAnyon Lakes National Forest Ranger District, and the New Belgium Brewery. Reed Woodford, kmac@frill.com

Breaking News -- Highway 20 to Re-Open!

The American Alpine Institute office just received the following email from the WDOT:
  • While the avalanche chutes are stable now, snow slide clean up on the North Cascades Highway will delay reopening the road until 3 p.m. tomorrow. Washington State Department of Transportation (WSDOT) Okanogan Maintenance Superintendent Dean Hills says avalanche crews found one large slide below Liberty Bell Mountain, just east of Washington Pass (LB#3). Heavy, wet snow containing large rocks and tree debris is covering 200-feet of the highway to a depth of 25 to 35 feet. “Crews are working there now, but it’s going to take until tomorrow to clear it,” said Hills, “with the rocks and debris, we can’t use the snow blowers.” Hills said they also need to repair a sinkhole and clear about a half dozen clogged culverts, “Several avalanche chutes released and dumped snow and rocks on the shoulders and other chutes melted,” he said, “ It’s pretty stable now. The avalanche crew put up 18 charges this morning, using a portable howitzer, and nothing significant came down.”

  • At 2 p.m., it was sunny and 79 degrees on the east side at Mazama and overcast and 76 degrees on the west side in Newhalem. There are still 5-and-a-half feet of snow on the shoulders of the highway at Washington Pass. This afternoon’s 54 degrees is well below Saturday’s 68 degree high temperature at 5,500 feet. “The forecast is for the temperatures to continue to cool which will keep any snow still up there, stable,” said Hills. The freezing level is expected to drop to 9,000 feet tonight and down to 3,500 feet Tuesday night.

  • WSDOT closed the highway from Diablo (MP 134) to Silver Star Creek (MP 171) at noon last Thursday when a snow slide covered the highway below Liberty Bell Mountain (LB#2).

Breaking News -- Denali Team One Summits!

Congratulations to AAI Denali Team One!

The team summitted yesterday in excellent weather. To read their full dispatch from high camp at 17,000 feet, click here.

Choosing the Right Footwear

Note: This article was first published in the July 2006 issue of Climbing Magazine. It is reprinted here by permission of the author, a senior guide at AAI.

___________________________________________________________________

Choosing the Right Kicks


It was late October and I was standing at the trailhead for California’s Palisade Glacier deliberating over an assortment of footwear. A pair of rock shoes, a pair of leather boots, a pair of approach shoes and finally a pair of plastic boots all lay before me, but which was the right tool for the job? Our itinerary included a long approach, rock-and-ice climbing, and potentially slogging through deep snow. These variable conditions and mediums made the decision as to what I should bring quite difficult.
Alpine climbing in the world’s different ranges requires a wide assortment of footwear. An important but often underrated skill of alpinism is selecting the appropriate footwear for the job at hand. The following is a breakdown of footwear options, and their backcountry niches.


Rock Shoes

On strenuous alpine rock routes, climbers often wear comfortable “all-day” shoes. In the mountains, rock shoes should be reserved for high-end pitches, as they are most effective when conditions are dry and not too cold, with little-or-no snow to negotiate on the route. The sticky rubber on rock shoes does not perform well in temperatures below freezing; and if you are in such temperatures it is likely that you’ll want more covering your foot than a light rock shoe anyway. Most alpine climbers prefer to wear rock shoes on routes that are 5.8 or harder.


Approach Shoes

Sticky-rubber approach shoes are becoming popular on alpine routes, especially after the snow melts and approaches are made on dry trails. However, some climbers do strap lightweight crampons to these shoes in order to cross small glaciers or late-summer snowfields. Approach shoes are a great lightweight option for fast ascents of easy alpine terrain. It is not uncommon for recreational alpinists to lead up to 5.8 in them.

There are, however, two disadvantages to approach shoes. The first is that they don’t provide appropriate support for hiking with a heavy backpack, and the second is that they will get wet and cold if it snows. In addition to this, it is important to note that once the sticky rubber on approach shoes gets cold, the rubber feels slippery and hard, especially when walking on ice. Climbers should be cautious when using approach shoes in these conditions.


Leather Boots

As leather boots become increasingly technical, their alpine uses continue to grow. Most leather boots climb both rock and ice relatively well. Some lightweight leathers are tailored more for rock climbing, whereas heavier leathers have an ice climbing focus. The primary difference between the two focuses is often the amount of insulation in the boot.

Most alpinists are comfortable leading low fifth-class rock in leather boots, though it should be noted that climbers who purposefully train in them will be able to climb mid-to-upper fifth-class rock as well. Obviously, leather boots then are an excellent choice for situations wherein you might encounter combinations of snow, ice, and moderate rock climbing.

There are three disadvantages to leather boots, however. First, some of the heavier leather boots are difficult to break in, and can cause serious blistering during this process. Second, most leathers have a full shank in the sole so they don’t smear well. And third, they are difficult to dry out once they become sodden.


Plastic Double Boots


Though plastics are the least precise and the heaviest of all alpine footwear, they are the warmest and easiest to dry out in the backcountry. On Cascade volcanoes, on the flanks of Denali, and on alpine ice climbs, plastic double boots perform extremely well.

Few climbers use plastic boots on routes that require a significant amount of rock climbing, as smearing and other technical foot placements can be quite difficult when wearing plastics. Climbing in crampons while wearing plastics is a bit more precise than without crampons in plastics. However, they still feel less technical than leathers with crampons for difficult mixed climbing.

As with leathers, plastics come in lighter and heavier duty models. The lighter models have a lower profile and climb a little better on rock and ice. Heavy plastics, however, are bulky and feel imprecise, but they are built primarily for warmth in extreme alpine-and-arctic environments.


Decision Time

In order to choose the appropriate footwear for your climb, spend some time researching the route. What are you likely to encounter? Snow, ice, difficult rock climbing, or a mixture of all three? In addition to knowing what to expect, make sure you know your limits. How hard can you climb in each type of footwear? These two factors will play the largest role in your decision as to what you will wear. If you know you’re going somewhere cold that will also require low-end technical rock moves, it’s a good idea to take your intended footwear to the crag or the gym and get comfortable climbing the necessary grade with the additional challenges of stiffness and a potentially clunky-feeling (compared to your rock shoes) boot.

Choosing appropriate footwear for an alpine outing is a skill set that takes as much time, experience, and refinement as learning a new technique. And even the experts get it wrong sometimes. For instance, I chose a pair of lightweight leathers for my Sierra trip and they climbed like a charm … but my feet were cold.

--Jason D. Martin

Roofies

I know nothing of what I'm about to write.Man, sleeping is such a difficult task. I just can't seem to settle into a nice, deep pattern of unconscious relaxation. There's just something not right about this, and I can't tell what it is. Vertical cracks? No, I don't want those kinds of cracks. Choss? Not today. Not now. Dicey traverses? Sharp pockets? Roofs? No, no, no. No roofs; please no roofs.

Getting ready for Memorial Day weekend

The weather this week was ugly. What was supposed to be a chance of rain, turned into 20 plus inches of new snow at Paradise! That's doing little to help with the road opening operations. We've updated the road access information, but please be forewarned, it's a moving target, particularly with regard to avalanche issues and other obstacles that continually arise.

Climbing rangers will be lurking on the Emmons and Muir routes this weekend. If you're bored, stop in and visit them at high camp. Otherwise, those on the Emmons should prepare for a longer march into White River Campground. It doesn't look as though that road will open by Memorial Day weekend. Therefore, be prepared to park your vehicle at the "Mather Wye" on HWY 410 (extra 6 miles each way, unless you get lucky enough to hitch a ride with a passing NPS rig). Things are relatively normal on the Camp Muir/Paradise side. Though it is worth noting that the Ingraham Direct is already out of shape and most climbers are hitting the Disappointment Cleaver. Remember, the Jackson Visitor Center opens at 6 a.m. on Saturday.

There was a substantial increase in the number of climbers and skiers visiting the upper mountain this past weekend. To keep you up to speed, we've added a number of new reports in the Updated Route Conditions. If you've some images or narratives about your climbing experience, we want them (and so does everyone else!). Photo by Jason Hummel.

Mount Saint Helens -- May 18, 1980

People often talk about major news events and where they were when something important took place. Most Boomers know exactly where they were when they found out the JFK was shot. Most Gen Xers remember exactly where they were when the Challenger blew up. And everybody remembers where they were when they found out about the World Trade Center on September 11th.

Local events often have the same type of impact. People who lived in Western Washington on May 18th, 1980 remember the day well. That was the day that Mount Saint Helens exploded. That was the day when the skyline of the Pacific Northwest changed forever.

I was only eight years old, but I lived in Seattle. Seattle is too far from the mountain to actually see it, but on clear days prior to the main event, we could often see ash rising high into the sky on the horizon.

At 8:32 in the morning on May 18th, a small earthquake woke many residents of Western Washington. In Seattle it was just a little tremor. But at the mountain proper, the earthquake measured 5.1. It was a perfectly clear day. Everybody, everywhere could see the massive mushroom cloud of ash and dust rising thousands upon thousands of feet into the sky.

The Mount Saint Helens National Mounument website eloquently reports what happened at the mountain:

  • The north face of this tall symmetrical mountain collapsed in a massive rock debris avalanche. In a few moments this slab of rock and ice slammed into Spirit Lake, crossed a ridge 1,300 feet high, and roared 14 miles down the Toutle River.

  • The avalanche rapidly released pressurized gases within the volcano. A tremendous lateral explosion ripped through the avalanche and developed into a turbulent, stone-filled wind that swept over ridges and toppled trees. Nearly 150 square miles of forest was blown over or left dead and standing.

Today is the 28th anniversary of the event. It was 28 years ago today that 47 bridges were destroyed, 15 miles of railway was obliterated, 185 miles of road was erased, 250 homes were crushed and most tragically, 57 people lost their lives. Twenty-eight years later Mount Saint Helens still reminds us of the massive forces of nature. And it still reminds us how small we are in comparison to them.


To see the mountain crumble, check out an excellent stop motion video here. To learn more about the mountain and the eruption there are some more educational videos here and here.

--Jason D. Martin



________________



Photo Credit: USGS Photo by Austin Post

Heatwave Climbing

Longmire may still be a snowy icebox (3-4 feet of snow in some places and cool down-valley...katabatic... winds) but the upper mountain hasn't been. On Thursday and Friday nights, the low at Camp Muir "dipped" (!) to a balmy 50 degrees. Former climbing ranger and famed speed climber Chad Kellogg found a sea of slush on his way to Camp Muir. Chad left Paradise around midnight (60 degrees) using (needing) snowshoes to plow through snow on the Muir Snowfield. I've posted a photo and an upated description of the Disappointment Cleaver on the Updated Route Conditions page.

Under bright sunny skies, the newly remodeled Paradise Inn reopened without a hitch (TNT) last Friday. The only complaint that I heard was that somehow, they forgot to reinstall the historically significant "Glacier Lounge". What, no bar?! Other than that, the new floors look pretty darn good and everyone was happy.

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!

On the menu this week, we have three delectable films. The first is warm and spicy served on a steep limestone crag. Then we have a cool side dish covered in ice, sprinkled with pick scarred rock. And lastly, for dessert we have a heafty helping of big mountains with a tasty coating of sugar snow and blended ice. We hope you enjoy your meal and that leave here today with a stomach full of psych!

--Watch world class climber Chris Sharma climb a world class climb, here. This professional looking video shows a master of the sport working hard to get up a very hard route. It is a treat to see someone at the top of their game!

--Here's a video recap of this year's Ouray Ice Festival. Most of the clips are from the wildly overhung mixed ice climbing competition.

--You've heard of people who climb the Seven Summits...but how about a guy who skied them all? This is the trailer for a documentary film about the first person to do so. And this guy is nuts. Many of the shots are of him on 50-60 degree terrain!

Get to Know Your Guide: An interview with Andy Bourne

Every week, we take the reader into the interesting and ever-changing life of an American Alpine Institute guide. Every AAI guide is very experienced in alpine and rock climbing, and all have received professional training in advanced guiding techniques and rescue. Collectively they have one of the highest levels of wilderness first aid, avalanche, and Leave No Trace training among the world's international guide services.

This week, we interview
Andy Bourne.

Age: 34
Hometown: Bellingham, Washington
Recent trips and expeditions with AAI: Red Rock climbing trips
Upcoming trips and expeditions with AAI: Part 2 Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, and an expedition to China this fall

A Guide’s Life
How old were you when you first started climbing?
I was introduced to climbing when I was 14 living in Tennessee. A friend bought a rope and a figure 8 descending device and we went to Backbone rock in Damascus, VA to rappel from the top. We had n
o idea what we were doing and I’m surprised we survived. My first actual climbing experience was on a highway roadcut with the same rope and equipment, not exactly the most inspiring location.

My first experience with mountaineering was actually on Aconcagua in 1997. While living in Minnesota and working at a climbing store, a guy came in looking for partners for an Aconcagua expedition and I took him up on it. It was a very eye-opening experience as I was not prepared for that type of environment and it was my first time at altitude above about 6000 feet! We did not summit needless to say. Soon after that, I moved to Washington where I started alpine climbing in the Cascades with Coley Gentzel. We both worked at REI while throwing ourselves at peaks and learning things the hard way.


How do you stay in shape, and what are your favorite training activities?
Well, I don’t really stay in shape, but I try to do so by backcountry skiing and rock climbing/bouldering. During the winter in the Northwest, I ski and I have a gym membership and try to workout regularly. But when spring rolls around, I only like to workout ou
tside. I will occasionally do an uphill trail run and I ride my bike instead of driving as often as I can. My main focus is to try to stay in good hiking and rock climbing shape - which can both serve well on alpine climbs.

Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
There’s several people I am inspired by. One is Fred Becky, his mountain explorations are unmatched by almost any other person in history, and he’s still going after it at
80+ years old. Peter Croft is also someone who is very inspirational for his solos throughout the Sierra and the world. Lastly, the late Charlie Fowler was one of the few true global explorers who didn’t try to make a name for himself, but managed to experience some of the most far flung places on earth, often by himself.

What are your other interests besides climbing?
Travel in the third world, Asia especially. Anthropology, culture and language, playing guitar, and working on my house.

Where is your favorite place to travel? Where do you hope to travel in the near future?
I already gave it away, my favorite place to travel is Asia. It is the most “foreign” culture compared to our Western way of life a
nd the people are welcoming, cheerful, and polite. The culture has so much history, the landscape is diverse and amazing and the traveling is generally quite cheap. It is the complete package in my opinion.

In the near future, I would like to see more of South and Central America. Specifically, I want to see Cuba, Nicaragua, and Peru.


On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style
.
I don’t really have a style. I just try to find aesthetic climbs without major objective hazards (like cornices and serac fall). High quality alpine rock climbing is by far my favorite type of climbing.

What has been your most technically difficult climb?
The Grand Wall on the Squamish Chief probably.


What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
My biggest strength is that I’m so buff. I mean I can really crank when I want to, but that brings us to my biggest weakness, I’m too lazy to want to crank really hard so I just end up climbing easy
stuff.

A Guide on Guiding
Is there anyth
ing you know now that you’d wish you’d known when you were just beginning to climb?
Yes, to always wear a helmet.

When you guide, what piece of advice do you find you give most often to climbers?
Tie knots in the end of your ropes when rappelling, double check everything when rappelling, always use clear commands on pitched out terrain, keep eating and drinking, keep a nice steady pace that you can maintain.

What qualities do you
think are most important in a guide?
Being articulate and decisive, while multi-tasking and being positive.

Name a few guide “turn-ons” (for example, what makes a good climber on one of your courses, ascents, or expeditions?).
Someone who is generous and considerate, otherwise just plain ol’ good physical condition.


Any memorable events while guiding for AAI?
Summiting Whitney with Bruce Worley, John Church and Ellen from Louisia
na, they were just a really cool bunch of people to hang out with, even for being such old farts! Another was climbing in the Daxue Shan Range in China with Dominic Hodson, Bob Krueger, Guy Sgan, Gustavo Fiero, and BJ Whalen in 2005.

What are your must-haves? Favorite foods or gear?
Coffee.


Any closing comments? I look forward to trying to balance a more sustainable lifestyle while still managing to climb and ski.