November and December Climbing Events


-- Oct 30-Nov 7 -- Italy -- International Mountain Summit Festival

-- Nov 5 -- Philadelphia, PA -- Penn Pull Down Bouldering Competition --  215.746.8622

-- Nov 6 -- Horse Pens Steele, AL -- Triple Crown Bouldering Series

-- Nov 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit

-- Nov 11 -- El Paso, TX --  Reel Rock Film Tour  

-- Nov 19 -- Sunnyvale, CA -- Bloc Party: A Planet Granite Bouldering Series  http://www.planetgranite.com/

-- Nov 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Stone Gardens 2010 Seattle Bouldering Challenge 

-- Nov 30 -- Bellingham, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival at WWU

--Dec 1-3 -- Seattle, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- Dec 4 -- Chattanooga TN -- Triple Crown Bouldering Series 

-- Dec 11 – Worldwide – International Mountain Day

-- Dec11 – Bellingham, WA – AAI's International Mountain Day Avalanche Awareness Seminar

-- Dec 12 -- Sandstone, MN -- Sandstone Ice Festival  

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you Stoked!!

Ok, so this first video doesn't exactly have a lot to do with climbing...but it does have everything to do with getting stoked.    Watch as this crazy, gravity defying, wingsuit daredevil flies way to close to trees, cliffs, giant statues, and pretty much everything else you wouldn't want to hit at incredibly high speeds.


Jeb Corliss wing-suit demo

The next video we've got in store certainly has more to do with climbing than the first but still keeps the crazy element of jumping off very tall things, namely mountains and desert towers.  For those with sensitive ears I would recommend covering them at the 3 minute mark as Dean drops an F-bomb after leaping off what I believe to be Fitzroy in Patagonia.  Enjoy!


Dean Potter: Falling To Fly

Getting With The Times




"Blow" on V3's P3 (5.7)
 My hands were cold. The tips on my fingers were turning white, just as they always do when the late autumn shade hits at the end of the day and the rock swings from motherly warm to freezing beast. I was only a little nervous and very excited. Unsure is probably the best way to describe it. My heart was racing and my head was calm. A girl, the second in her party,

One Last Trip to Mount Baker before the Winter Season

A couple of weeks ago, I did a final trip to Mt. Baker for the year.  I had a choice of going to either the south or the north side, and because I had not been to the south side all year, that was the choice.  It turned out to be a good choice.  Pretty views, lots of blueberries, and several wildlife encounters with almost no other people around made for a great final trip of the season.


Sunset on the Easton and Deming glaciers on the south side of Mt. Baker. 
The nights are getting long this time of year, so after a lot of sleep we headed up to the glacier to work on some skills.  The hike to the glacier was as pretty as I have ever seen it.  The sun low in the sky makes for great light from a photo standpoint.

The Twin Sisters from the Railroad Grade.
I have not seen a larger population of marmots anywhere in the Cascades as there currently is on the south side of Mt. Baker.  I spent a lot of time bothering these guys.  I have always thought I am not the most patient person in the world, but when it comes to patients, the marmot may be the least patient of all.  After being scared and running into their hole I quickly set up the shot I wanted and waited less than a minute for the marmot to poke his head back out.  It really is amazing that more predators have not figured this out.

The vicious protector of the high alpine.

Curious Marmot

An evening walk in dark and foggy weather made this photo possible.

Looking west at sunset.

The following day I had some time to wander around and  check out some of the other wildlife, and head up to the Park Butte lookout.  With a forecast of 6-8 inches of rain overnight chances were the sky would be interesting making for some good photos, but in typical North Cascades fashion when I got there it was foggy and wet.  

A dusky grouse. 

Fall colours.

The mountain hemlock. 

Western hemlock trees near camp. 

Another curious marmot.

Park  Butte lookout on a Cascades fall day.

I dont see these guys often, but its always a treat when I do. 

A few hours after getting back down from the lookout the weather cleared for what would surely be a sunset to remember, so I ran back up to the lookout for the second time in four hours and shot the following photo. 

The Twin Sisters range from Park Butte lookout. 








Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 10/28/10

Northwest:

--A Tacoma woman who became lost Saturday on a day hike near Lake Ingalls near Mount Stuart in Central Washington survived three nights in a series of snowstorms by wrapping herself in a plastic trash bag. Search and rescue personnel indicated that 50-year-old Natalya Manko wisely decided to return to the site where she lost her way, after failing to find a way out.  To read more, click here.

--A hiker who fell and fractured both of his legs while ascending Aasgard Pass Thursday was in serious condition Saturday morning.  A helicopter crew from Fairchild Air Force Base rescued Kwang R. Jang, 64, of Lacey, shortly before 10 a.m., said search and rescue personnel.  To read more, click here.


--After the tragic death of a hiker in the Olympic National Forest last week where a hiker was killed by a goat, REI has put together a nice blog on how to act around mountain goats.  To read the article, please click here.

Sierra:

--Three mountain climbers who had been missing for over four days on Mt. Whitney were found uninjured last Thursday and were transported to a regional Inyo County hospital for medical evaluations. The three men from Omaha -- Phillip Michael Abraham, 34; Stevan James Filips, 43; and Dale Clymens, 45 -– were found in alive and well in Mount Whitney's summit hut.  In addition to the thee men, two other backcountry users were also found.  To read more, click here and here.

--On October 16th, a woman fell nearly 110 feet in the Owens River Gorge.  It's not clear what caused the fall or why she fell, but there was a moment where a rope snagged and helped slow her down.  It appears that she suffered a broken pelvis and some fractured vertebrae.  To read more, click here.

--Vail Resorts announced Monday that it has acquired Northstar-at-Tahoe Resort in North Lake Tahoe, Calif. Vail Resorts acquired the stock of the companies that operate Northstar-at-Tahoe from Booth Creek Resort Properties LLC and other sellers for $63 million.  To read more, click here.

--Yosemite National Park is no longer in danger of losing its medical clinic service, officials announced last week.  National Park Service staff assigned from the U.S. Public Health Service will take over the Yosemite Medical Clinic, which would have closed at the end of the year if a new provider had not been found.  Doctors Medical Center in Modesto, which has operated the clinic for 15 years, will end service December 31st.  To read more, click here.

--Swiss transplants, Bernd and Hjoerdis Zeugswette and their friend Greg Corliss recently completed a new route in the Mount Whitney region of the Sierra Nevada.  The new route is on the Fourth Pillar of the Whitney Massif and clocks in at 5.11, A1.  To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Climate Change will raise temperatures in Joshua Tree National Park and the Mojave National Preserve by about 8 degrees, pushing them well past the historic average at Death Valley by the end of the century, according to a study released Tuesday by environmental groups. The projections are in a report by the Rocky Mountain Climate Organization in Denver and the Natural Resources Defense Council in New York looking at the impact of warming on the 10 national parks in California.  To read more, click here.


--The geologic beauty of Zion National Park was  created by rock slides, earthquakes, landslides, flooding and debris flows. And those forces are a threat to tourists and people who live in surrounding towns and along the popular highway leading into the park.  A recently completed study of the region, based on existing maps of the hazard-prone areas, will help park managers protect visitors as they plan future construction.To read more, click here.


Himalaya:

Joe Puryear

--Northwest Alpinist and well-known Alaskan climber, Joe Puryear, was killed on Labuche Kang (24,170') in a remote region of Tibet this week. Details are still scarce, but they are slowly being posted on cascadeclimbers and on supertopo.  Following is a quick bio from his website:

Joe grew up climbing in the Cascade Range of Washington. Joe's climbing career has taken him around the world to such places as the Nepal, China, Patagonia, Mexico, the Andes, the Alps, Africa, and the Canadian Rockies. Most recently he has been making been making first peak ascents of major Himalayan summits, with seven to his credit so far. Over the last 15 years he has also climbed extensively in Alaska and has written a guidebook to the Alaska Range called Alaska Climbing. Joe resides in Leavenworth, Washington with his wife Michelle.

--Chhewang Nima, a legendary Everest Sherpa, is still missing and feared dead in the Himalaya. On October 23rd, Nima was fixing ropes on Baruntse (23,494') for a British expedition, when an avalanche hit and caused him to fall down the north-east slope of the mountain.  A renowned mountain climber, Nima was well respected in climbing circles for reaching the summit of Everest nineteen times. To read more, click here.

--The Spanish National Women's Alpine Climbing Team had a tremendously successful summer in both the West Pyrenees and the Karakoram, completing five first ascents. The expedition, which featured four of Spain's top female climbers, took a year of preparation and research before they set foot in the mountains.  To read more, click here.

--Climber and Arctic explorer Eric Larsen is the first person ever to reach the North and South poles and the summit of Mount Everest in under a year.  Larsen traveled to places he calls "the top, bottom and roof of the world" with the goal of boosting awareness of the impact of climate change on remote environments.  To read more, click here.


Notes from All Over:

--Grand Teton National Park rangers rescued an uninjured climber last Wednesday from 12,325-foot Teewinot Peak.  Eric Steinmann, 26, called a friend from the East Face of the mountain to report he was in a location where he couldn’t continue climbing without risking a fall. Rangers launched a rescue shortly thereafter. Due to the lateness of the call they used a helicopter to perform the rescue.To read more, click here.

The Tallest Climbing Wall in the World
From DVICE

--The Excalibur in Groningen, Netherlands, is likely the tallest climbing wall in the world.  Though it's not easy to see in the picture, one aspect of the 121 foot wall is somewhat overhung.  To read more, click here.

--Film-maker Oakley Anderson-Moore has recently finished an early edit of a film about the first real generation of American rock climbers.  Anderson-Moore's film, "The Last Wild Mountain: Portrait of the American Climber" will air at the American Mountaineering Museum, in Golden, Colorado, on November 16.  To read more, click here.

--For over 10 years the Winder Wildlands Alliance has been working closely with Friends of the Routt Backcountry on resolving conflicts in the Hahn's Peak Area of the Routt National Forest in Colorado. Unfortunately, the Forest Service has failed to adequately consider the impacts of a proposed snowmobile trail to the local backcountry ski community and we need your help.  The Routt National Forest has issued an Environmental Analysis that ignores the impact s of snowmobiles to the environment and other recreationists. The preferred alternative would establish a new snowmobile trail through the middle of a popular and historic non-motorized ski destination. Currently there is less than thirty days to submit comments on this plan.  To read more, click here. 


--The Asian Piolet d'Or took place this week.  The following is a roundup from the Explorer's Web:

Japanese Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama have won the fifth "Les Piolets d’Or Asia" after their new route on Canada's Mt. Logan (5,900m), according to the decision of a jury headed by Denis Urubko. The ceremony was held in Seoul earlier today.

The first Les Piolets d’Or Asia Achievement Award was given to the late Mr. Tstuneo Hasegawa. He died in an avalanche in October 1991.

As for rock climbing, Ja-In Kim received the 'Golden Climbing Shoes', while the ‘Silver Shoes’ went to Hee-yong Park.

--In the very small world of climbing companies, lawsuits between them make big news.  That's why the fact that Mad Rock filed a lawsuit against Climb X is noteworthy.  To read about the specifics, click here.

--Officials say a climbing wall collapse at a northwestern Montana church camp sent eight children to area hospitals with broken bones and heavy bruising.  Glacier Camp and Conference Center Interim Director Steve Edwards says the collapse occurred about 10 a.m. Saturday at the camp next to the scenic Flathead Lake near the town of Lakeside.  To read more, click here.

The North Face of the Eiger

--Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli have completed the first free ascent of the legendary Harlin Direttissima on the Eiger north face (13,024'). Between September 20 and 23, the duo climbed the 6000-foot route in alpine style. The original route requires 80-degree ice and A3 rock climbing. Free climbing, the route clocked in at M8 5.11d.  To read more, click here.

--While we don't normally cover climbing competitions, this one stood out.  Chris Sharma recently won the deep-water soloing tournament on Sunday in the Basque city of Bilbao in north-central Spain.  This event drew nearly 5000 spectators, which is likely the largest audience any climbing event has ever drawn.  To read more, click here.

Sibling Rivalry - Mount Adams vs. Mount Hood

The Klickitat tribe of Washington and Oregon has a fantastic legend about an ancient dispute between two brothers that we now know as the Cascade volcanoes, Mount Adams and Mount Hood.

Long ago, Tyhee Saghalie, the chief of all the gods traveled down the Columbia river with his two sons in search of a place to settle. The sons, Pahto and Wy'east, had a difficult relationship and so when they finally came to a beautiful area where they wanted to live, the sons quarrelled. Each of them wanted the land for himself.

Mount Adams

To settle this dispute, their father shot two arrows from his bow. He shot the first one to the north and the second to the south and then told the boys that they would have to live in the place where each of the arrows landed. Pahto followed the arrow to the north and settled. Wy'east followed the arrow to the south and did the same.

Saghalie wanted his family to be content, so he built a bridge between the north and the south. This bridge became known as the Bridge of the Gods. And for many years the family used the bridge to meet.

But there was a problem...

Both of the sons fell in love with a beautiful young woman named Loowit. And this young woman was indecisive. She could not choose between the two chiefs.

So Pahto and Wy'east went to war with one another. They threw fire at each other and destroyed the Bridge of the Gods. When the bridge fell the earth was devestated. Villages and forests were destroyed and indeed, the collapse of the bridge created a massive rift between the north and the south which we now know as the Columbia River Gorge.

Mount Hood

The devastation from this war was so great that Saghalie was offended by his sons and their violence. So for punishment he transformed all three of the lovers into great mountains. Wy'east, with his head lifted in pride, became Mount Hood. Pahto, with his head bent in shame, became Mount Adams. And the maiden Loowit, became Mount Saint Helens.

Mount Saint Helens

In recent decades, it seems that the biggest hothead of the three was Loowit. Pahto and Wy'east should have treated her better so that she didn't blow her top!


--Jason D. Martin

Fall Factor Mathematics

A couple of weeks ago, I put up a piece on Fall Factors. I included a Fall Factor calculator which was a bit screwy. A couple of people noticed that it wasn't working and had some additional questions about Fall Factors.

While thinking about this, I came across this video from a mathematics professor and climber at Emory University. It's a very nice piece that does a very good job in discussing the basics of Fall Factors.



--Jason D. Martin

October and November Climbing Events


-- Oct 23-24 -- Las Vegas, NV -- 2010 National Climbing Management Summit: This fall the Access Fund will host the 2010 National Climbing Management Summit in partnership with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and US Forest Service in Las Vegas, NV on October 23rd and 24th. The summit will bring land managers and field-level personnel who are involved in recreation policy and climbing management together to discuss best practices for

-- Oct 24-26 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- ClimbSmart

-- Oct 24-26 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Warrior's Way SPORT Camp

-- Oct 29-Nov -- Southwest various locations -- Chris Sharma Slideshow Tour

-- Oct 29-30 -- Red Rock, NV -- Make A Difference Day - Service project at Red Rock Canyon (contact Lisa at lvclc.admin@gmail.com)

-- Oct 30-Nov -- Banff, Canada -- Banff Mountian Film Fest

-- Oct 30-Nov 7 -- Italy -- International Mountain Summit Festival

-- Nov 5 -- Philadelphia, PA -- Penn Pull Down Bouldering Competition --  215.746.8622

-- Nov 6 -- Horse Pens Steele, AL -- Triple Crown Bouldering Series

-- Nov 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit

-- Nov 11 -- El Paso, TX --  Reel Rock Film Tour  

-- Nov 19 -- Sunnyvale, CA -- Bloc Party: A Planet Granite Bouldering Series  

-- Nov 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Stone Gardens 2010 Seattle Bouldering Challenge

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!

Well, the word is out...winter seems to be arriving in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest this weekend.  There is a big storm on its way and with it that beautiful frozen precipitation we like to call snow!  Once I heard about this incoming storm I've found myself having a hard time concentrating on simple tasks, instead my mind has been off skiing down pristine alpine slopes in bottomless powder.  Oh, the beauty of winter.  Anyway, since I can't shake the ski fever I figured I'd better embrace it and feature a couple ski films I found.  Enjoy!


SIDE BY SIDE - FIELD PRODUCTIONS 


Light The Wick - TGR - Teton Gravity Research - OFFICIAL 2010 Ski Teaser

Self Arrest with Crampons

We teach self arrest a lot.

You could argue that we teach this skill more than any other. Every single course that goes out onto a glacier will spend at least some time covering this foundational skill. Some will spend all day, whereas others may only spend a short period of time. But it happens on just about every mountaineering trip...

There are a lot of different elements to a successful self-arrest and this particular post wasn't written to address them all. Instead, this post was written to discuss the one area of self-arrest where there is a fair bit of contention: toes up or toes down.

One school of thought is that when you arrest, you need to kick your toes up off the ground. This is so that if you are wearing crampons, they won't catch and flip you over.

The second school of thought is that you should kick your toes into the snow to help arrest the fall. In this school of thought, your toes should go in immediately to provide more resistance to the slide. However, this school also believes that you should only do this if you are not wearing crampons. This school believes that you should not kick your toes in if you are wearing crampons for fear of injury or flipping over.

The third school of thought is that you should always kick your toes into the snow, regardless of whether or not you are wearing crampons. The theory here is that stopping is the most important thing and that it's worth the risk of getting flipped over or injuring your ankles to stop.

Most AAI guides teach a combination of the second and third schools of thought. Programs that teach the first concept are definitely in the minority these days. The number one focus of any self-arrest activity is to stop a slide and most of the time, that means using your feet as part of the arresting system.

The real question comes when we look at the most obvious break between the second and third schools of thought. In the second, you kick your feet up while wearing crampons and in the third, you put them into the snow no matter what. Each of these styles of thinking are a little bit too rigid. In alpine climbing there are seldom absolutes. Both concepts have validity in one venue or in another. The problem is that it depends on snow conditions.

If you are on hard, solid ice or neve, then it's usually better to kick your feet up into the air. If you are on semi-solid terrain with occasional harder sections, then it's probably better to kick your toes in. This "it depends" approach isn't what most people want to hear. They want to hear a black and white answer; in part because a black and white answer is easier to remember in the heat of the moment.

Strategical thinking when moving in the mountains, in any kind of terrain, should always be composed of two questions. What is is the likelhood of a fall? And, what are the consequences of a fall? If these questions are always at the forefront of your thinking, then a black-and-white answer may not be so important. If you are constantly strategizing what you'll do in the event of a fall, then it is likely that you will react appropriately when the right skill is needed.

There is no easy closure on this question. There will always be people who argue vehemently for one of the three schools of thought. When all is said and done, none of the arguments matter. All that matters is that you can stop yourself when you fall.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 10/21/10

Northwest:

A Goat beneath the Snow Creek Wall near Leavenworth
Photo by Jason Martin

--Robert Boardman set out on a hike Saturday with his wife in the Olympic National Park.  The Port Angeles man never completed his trail. Boardman, 63, died after trying to shoo away a mountain goat at the top of Klahhane Ridge, about four miles north of the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center, National Park Service officials said.  He is believed to be the first person to have died in an incident involving an animal in the park, spokeswoman Barb Maynes said. Rangers found and killed the animal, which was to be taken to Monroe for a necropsy, she said.  To read more, click here.

--In late September, well-known local climber Dallas Kloke was killed in a tragic accident in the Cascades.  Dallas was responsible for many dozens, if not hundreds, of first ascents.  However, the place that he had the largest impact was on Mount Erie, a small climbing area near Anacortes.  There is now a movement to create a memorial to the climber.  To read more, click here.

Former President Bill Clinton
Photo by Alasdair Turner

--It has been an interesting political week at the American Alpine Institute.  AAI guide and photographer, Alasdair Turner has become a "go to" guy for political photography.  This week, Alasdair was enlisted to photograph former President Bill Clinton when he came to Seattle to campaign for Senator Patty Murry.  Earlier this year, Alasdair was selected as a photographer when President Obama visited.  Outside of Alasdair's burgeoning career as a political photographer, the Institute office staff also had an interesting encounter.  We had the opportunity to meet U.S. Congressman Rick Larsen when he visited our home office in Bellingham on Tuesday as side-trip in between campaign stops.  The staff and Larsen discussed the need and methodologies to augment budgets for the National Park Service and US Forest Service in order to deal with backlogs in road and trail maintenance.  As past president of the Outdoor Industry Association, AAI director Dunham Gooding has worked on those budgeting issues with members of Congress for many years.

Sierra:

--Yosemite National Park is currently developing an Environmental Assessment (EA) to study rehabilitation on approximately 40 miles of the Tioga Road, the highest trans-sierra highway that crosses the northern part of the park. The primary goal of this project is to improve visitor safety along the Tioga Road while still preserving the natural and cultural resources throughout the Tioga Road corridor.  Yosemite National Park invites the public to a site visit for the Tioga Road Rehabilitation Project on Friday, October 29, 2010 from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. The previously scheduled site visits were cancelled due to inclement weather at the higher elevations in the park. This public site visit is an opportunity for interested parties to learn more about this planning effort. Park planners will be at the meeting to discuss the project and hear comments and concerns regarding the planning effort and proposed rehabilitation actions.  To read more, click here.

--In August of 2008, California Fish and Game Wardens received an anonymous report via CalTip about suspected poaching activity in the Virginia Canyon area of Yosemite National Park. Based on this tip, the National Park Service (NPS) and the California Department of Fish and Game (DFG) opened a joint investigation. As the investigation progressed, Chad Gierlich, his 14-year old son, his brother Chris Gierlich, and Kyle Narasky were identified as suspects.  After catching two suspects in the act, they were sentenced.  On Tuesday, October 19th, 2010, Chad and Chris Gierlich were sentenced in Federal Court. Chris received sentencing including five years of supervised probation, 250 hours of community service, and 45 days of house arrest. Additionally, Chris is prohibited from hunting within the United States for five years, is not allowed to be in the presence of anyone hunting, and is not allowed to possess a bow and arrow.Chad Gierlich’s sentence in federal court included five years of supervised probation and a $52,368 fine. Additionally, Chad is prohibited from hunting within the United States for five years, prohibited from being in the presence of other hunters, and is not allowed to possess a bow and arrow. He is not allowed in Yosemite for the duration of his probation.To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

AAI Guide Kevin Hogan demonstrating his skill with a Trekking Pole
Photo by Jason Martin

--It appears that AAI Guides Scott Massey and Kevin Hogan were responsible for making the first ascent of a new multi-pitch line in Red Rock this week.  More details to come!

--The quiet Poway Crags outside of San Diego has been re-opened to climbing after a 7 year closure—a big win for climbers in the area. Poway Crags, offering quality routes up to 200 feet, was originally closed in 2003 due to a major wildfire. Signs were posted restricting the area for habitat restoration. Climbers respected the closure and the area fell quiet. Years later, after nature had healed itself, ACSD made contact with the City of Poway to gain official reinstatement of climbing access to the area. To read more, click here.

--It's always important to remember that being passed and passing others is part of climbing.  The best way to deal with this from either end is to be pleasant and to work together to keep everyone moving. It appears that this was not the case in an incident last week in Red Rock. Check out the report, here.

Himalaya:

--Family and friends of Alexey Gorbatenkov and Svetlana Gutsalo are seeking any information from people in the Khumbu region who may have seen the pair over the course of the last month. They did not catch their return flight after their trip and are currently missing.  Gorbatenkov and Gutsalo set off to attempt Tengkang Poche (21,325'),  in late September. On the 27th they reported they were okay and beginning their attempt on Tengkang Poche's north face. To read more, click here.

--Alpinist.com has a nice breakdown of a series of new routes that were climbed this season in Pakistan, China and Afghanistan.  To read about the routes, please click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A Colorado climber who fell 1,000 feet  to his death has been identified, officials say.  James Charles Patrick was climbing on Rocky Mountain National Park's Taylor Glacier with two others on Saturday morning when he slipped and slid off an icy cliff, taking the group's rope with him as he fell and leaving them stranded.  To read more, click here.


--The Western Colorado Climber’s Coalition (WCCC) closed on the 13 acre Mother’s Buttress parcel in Unaweep Canyon, securing climbing access that was threatened by private property restrictions. The effort was made possible with the help of a $10,000 grant from the Access Fund, a $5,000 grant from REI, and donated services by Telluride surveyor Dave Foley, Grand Junction engineer Marc Kenney and Telluride attorney Steve Johnson, Western Colorado Regional Coordinator for the Access Fund, not to mention the dedication of the WCCC. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report - October 20 2010

NORTHWEST:

--AAI Guide Jeff Reis shot this from Highline Divide on Sunday, 10/17.


--Check out this report on a 13 hour car-to-car ice day on Observation Rock, near Mount Rainier.


Observation Rock. Photo Credit Felix.

--The weather was just too nice to stay inside this past weekend. Chair Peak looks very,very different without all that snow! Mostly solid climbing, no issues with rock fall.

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

RED ROCK CANYON:


--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:


--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.


SIERRA:

 --AAI Program Coordinator Andrew Yasso is in the Sierra this very moment. Check out this North Peak video from October 14th:


Following on the Middle Couloir of North Peak from Andrew Yasso on Vimeo.

--Check out these pictures of the fall colors near El Cap.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

ALASKA RANGE:

-- For the most current updates on Alaska, please see our Dispatch Blog.

--Forecast for Denali.

ALPS:



--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.




Mt. Shuksan Skills and Climb

 A few weeks ago I guided a trip up Mt. Shuksan.  I have said for a while now that photography and guiding go hand in hand, and this trip really reminded me that this is true.  I don't like being out in the rain, but guides in the Pacific Northwest spend a lot of their time putting on a happy face and pretending to have fun in the rain.  Its often cold, miserable, and not really that much fun.  So what does that have to do with photography?  Often times the most dramatic skys and the best views are not found in sunny warm weather, in my experience they are found just after really crappy weather, as the clouds start to break and sun peaks through.  Photography is all about lighting, and this trip made for some interesting photo opportunities.  Below are some photos from the weekend.

The North Cascades at dusk. 
Mt. Baker at sunrise.


The thing that made this three day trip really great was the fact that we did have one day of good weather.  So on the second day we made a break for the summit of Mt. Shuksan.  Its almost winter up there, and the conditions were more like a spring climb then a early fall climb.
Mt. Baker with a perfect cloud cap on top.
Interesting clouds over the summit pyramid of Mt. Shuksan.
Approaching the summit pyramid. 
Ruth climbing into the belay.
Looking down the route at the group below.
This really feels like winter climbing.  Ruth midway up the route. 
Half way up the route. 

Looking down the summit ridge with Mt. Baker in the background. 
Ruth on the summit ridge with the summit behind her.  She is sitting down because of high winds. 


Mitchel and Matt making the last few steps to the top. 
Summit shot. 
Heading down from the summit pyramid. 
Ruth back at camp after the summit. 
We all woke up some time after midnight with high winds and lots of rain.  I packed the camera deep in my pack surrounded by two garbage bags for the very wet hike out.  Summer in the Cascades is over! 
 
--Alasdair Turner, Instructor and Guide

Film Review: The Snow Walker

Not every film I review for this blog is completely connected to the mountains.  Occasionally, I post reviews of books and films that are only marginally linked to mountain culture.  Usually these are connected to our mission of bringing you the most interesting mountain content by some small thread.  The 2003 film, The Snow Walker is one of these.  No, it's not about climbing or skiing, but it is about indigenous culture and adventure, two things that we at the American Alpine Institute care about a great deal.


The Snow Walker is an interesting study of cultural understanding.  The story takes place in the fifties in a world where there is little tolerance for individuals who are not white and male.  Charlie Halliday (Barry Pepper) is a brash young pilot in Canada's Northern Territories who is enlisted to fly a sick Inuit woman (Annabella Piugattuk) who speaks very little English to a hospital in Yellowknife.  In the process of bringing her to safety across the barren tundra, Halliday crashes his plane.  The arrogant pilot must learn modesty, trust and understanding as the only way to stay alive in the barren arctic wastes is to put his faith in Inuit survival techniques.

Most of the stranger-in-a-strange-land culture-clash films have two elements to "make them exciting."  First, they tend to take place in a violent setting.  In other words, there is some kind of war or conflict, often between the cultures portrayed.  And second, there is usually a romance.  Sometimes the romance is between members of the same culture and sometimes it's cross-cultural.  Some excellent examples of these types of films include Kevin Costner's Dances with Wolves, Tom Cruise's The Last Samurai, last year's ubber-blockbuster Avatar, and even Disney's Pocahontas.  The Snow Walker breaks away from these cliche models and does something completely different.  There is no war between cultures and there is no romance between the two lead characters.  Instead, the film documents a story of trust and friendship deep in the wilderness and in many ways, the simplicity of the story creates a far more powerful message than some of the other films that have dealt with this theme.

Barry Pepper -- the film's lead -- is one of those actors you know you've seen before, but often can't place.  He's the guy that's in every movie, but when it comes right down to it, you can't name a single one.  Well, let me do it for you.  Pepper has been in big Hollywood productions like Seven Pounds, Flags of Our Fathers, 25th Hour, We Were Soldiers, Knockaround Guys, The Green Mile, Enemy of the State, and Saving Private Ryan.  He has also played leading and secondary roles in a variety of television shows and lesser known Hollywood and independent films.  The actor has even performed a feature role in a "live action" video game.

Pepper's performance in The Snow Walker makes me wonder why this particular actor has been typed as a supporting character in most of the work that he has done.  The actor has a breadth of range that has been ignored by big Hollywood directors and producers.  As most of us only have the slightest knowledge of Inuit culture, we first empathize with Pepper's character, lost in the wilderness. And then as he begins to connect with his Inuit companion, so too do we.



The Snow Walker is not a film that will blow you away with its originality.  You've seen this story before.  Maybe you haven't seen it with this particular culture being explored, but you've likely seen it with everything from aliens to Samurai. However, it is unlikely that you've seen this type of cultural-understanding story done before in such a tender and "un-Hollywood" way.

--Jason D. Martin

October and November Climbing Events

-- Oct 23-24 -- Las Vegas, NV -- 2010 National Climbing Management Summit: This fall the Access Fund will host the 2010 National Climbing Management Summit in partnership with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and US Forest Service in Las Vegas, NV on October 23rd and 24th. The summit will bring land managers and field-level personnel who are involved in recreation policy and climbing management together to discuss best practices for

-- Oct 24-26 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- ClimbSmart

-- Oct 24-26 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Warrior's Way SPORT Camp

-- Oct 29-Nov -- Southwest various locations -- Chris Sharma Slideshow Tour

-- Oct 29-30 -- Red Rock, NV -- Make A Difference Day - Service project at Red Rock Canyon (contact Lisa at lvclc.admin@gmail.com)

-- Oct 30-Nov -- Banff, Canada -- Banff Mountian Film Fest

-- Oct 30-Nov 7 -- Italy -- International Mountain Summit Festival

-- Nov 5 -- Philadelphia, PA -- Penn Pull Down Bouldering Competition --  215.746.8622

-- Nov 6 -- Horse Pens Steele, AL -- Triple Crown Bouldering Series

-- Nov 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit

-- Nov 11 -- El Paso, TX --  Reel Rock Film Tour  

-- Nov 19 -- Sunnyvale, CA -- Bloc Party: A Planet Granite Bouldering Series  

-- Nov 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Stone Gardens 2010 Seattle Bouldering Challenge

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!

One of our brave and incredibly hardcore guides, Chantel Astorga, is currently soloing Mescalito on El Capitan in Yosemite.  In honor of this impressive endeavor I decided to feature this route in the Weekend Warrior blog.  If any of you would like to see some pictures of Chantel's progress on the route check out this website (you may have to scroll through a few other reports to find her climb):  www.elcapreport.com

Well, without further delay here are a couple videos of two other hardcore climbers, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgenson, attempting to free climb Mescalito.  There is great footage of the climbing and exposure encountered on this route.  It's wild to imagine Chantel up there soloing all of this!


VIDEO Part 1: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap's hardest climb from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.


VIDEO Part 2: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap's hardest climb from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

A Trip to the Enchantments

Pat and I recently spent two days in the lesser traveled parts of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area.  Our cross country journey covered more that 20 miles and some of the most amazing terrain on what may have been one of the most perfect days of weather in Washington this summer. 


A perfect lake with perfect colors. 
Maybe we should just camp here. 
My shadow on the fall larches. 
I think this may be my new favorite spot in all of the cascades!
Our tour took us through a well traveled part of the Alpine Lakes which is the only place we saw any people. 

The Lost World?
Pat on a summit. 
The Enchantments from up high. 
So you may have noticed that I did not really go into depth on where this trip took us.  We had no real plan on this trip.  It was just a trip into the mountains.  It was an adventure to cover some ground we had not seen before.  We did that.  You should too.  Go out and adventure in the mountains and see somewhere you have not seen before.

--Alasdair Turner, Instructor and Guide