March and April Climbing Events

-- March 5 -- Dayton, OH -- Wright State University Adventure Summit

-- March 6-7 -- Steven's Pass, WA -- Hope on the Slopes


-- March 6 -- Warrenville, IL -- Vertical Endeavors No Hold Barred


-- March 13 -- Washington, DC -- HERA Foundation Climb4Life


-- March 18 – Las Vegas, NV -- Banff Mountain Film Festival Tour


-- March 18 -- Washington, DC -- Chris Warner speaking on 8km peaks, presented by the Mountaineering Section of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club



-- March 19-21 -- Red Rocks NV -- Red Rock Rendezvous


-- March 24 -- Washington, DC -- Glen Denny speaking on Yosemite, presented by the Mountaineering Section of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club


--April 10 -- Grand Junction, CO -- "MOG" Outdoor Gear Sale & COPMOBA Bike Swap


-- April 16 -- Seattle, WA -- Snowball! NWAC Fundraiser


-- April 17 -- Central Washington University -- Ropeless Rodeo Bouldering Competition


-- April 23,24 -- Maryland/DC Area -- EarthTreks Roc Comp


-- April 24 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- Bridwell Fest at the Gordon Ranch

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!

So I don't have a television, and don't spend a ton of time online, so I haven't watched any of the Winter Olympics. Regardless though, the Olympic spirit is in the air and I'm always down for watching people overcome incredible odds and perform amazing feats. Here is one such feat:

BLIND AND NAKED from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.



Pretty crazy huh? Moving in a somewhat similar direction, I found this clip of adaptive downhill skiing. Not only is the music killer, around 1:00 the tricks start happening. It always amazes me and what people can overcome. This guy not only "overcomes" but excels.

Trip Report: The North Face of Chair Peak

In 2003, I climbed Chair Peak for the first time.

A post on Cascadeclimbers.com made it sound as if the route was in excellent condition. I had been ice climbing a lot that winter and wanted to up the ante...so I decided to solo the route.

I arrived early in the morning, skied in and sent the route. Of course that all sounds very simple. The reality is that the route wasn't in very good shape. In fact, one might say it was in quite poor shape. There was a lot of steep unconsolidated snow on the line and the crux moves demanded mixed climbing above a five-hundred foot void.

In other words, the climb was mildly terrifying.

And I was tremendously proud of my solo accomplishment...

In the seven years since that ascent, things have changed. I've become a father. And this particular life-changing experience has made me quite a bit more conservative in my personal climbing. It's now hard for me to justify soloing to myself. That's not to say that I think soloing is a universally bad thing. It's just not right for me anymore.

I'm still proud of that 2003 ascent. So when former AAI guide Gene Pires sent out an email in an attempt to find a partner for a Chair Peak trip, I eagerly accepted. I've always wanted to go back to that mountain with a partner in the hopes of finding better conditions...and perhaps reliving some of fun of that solo without reliving the danger.

I've been climbing on and off with Gene since we met in college in the early nineties. He's always been a reliable partner who is more than ready to joke about pretty much anything. He also has a toddler that is about the same age as my daughter. In other words, half the day was spent talking about climbing and the other half was spent talking about potty training. It was a lot of fun to spend the day with an old friend.

We made the approach on snowshoes and climbed the route in good style, swapping pitches to the top. We found excellent conditions. The line was "in-shape" and was composed of a mix of water ice and neve. The route varied in angle from fifty to seventy degrees with occasional spots of thin ice over rock. There was almost no comparison to the way the route was in 2003. Back then it felt extremely insecure. On our recent ascent, with the exception of a handful of thin moves, it was an absolutely delightful climb.

Alpine climbs can change dramatically from one day to the next, especially alpine ice climbs. People don't change as fast, but inevitably they change too. I'm a very different person than I was seven years ago and it was good to look at the mountain with the eyes of a father looking to get out with a partner, instead of with the eyes of a hungry alpinist trying to define himself...

The Tooth is a popular peak with an easy multipitch line on the south face.
The peak can be seen in the center of this photo.


Approaching Chair Peak
The Northeast Buttress is on the right hand skyline


Gene standing in front of Chair Peak
The Northeast Buttress is the ridge in the center of the photo and the
North Face can be seen in the shade


Approaching the base of the North Face

Gene leading the the "Left-Facing Corner" pitch

Jason following the first pitch.

Jason with a big smile

Gene approaching the belay.

Gene leading the last technical pitch

Gene and Jason on the Summit

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 2/25/10

Northwest:

--Three experienced cross-country skiers who were buried after an avalanche near Clearwater, B.C., last Wednesday were able to escape, but one of them later died in hospital after a long journey back to town. RCMP said the men were in an area known as "the frowbowl," which is located on the north side of Raft Peak near Clearwater, when the avalanche occurred at around 10:30 a.m. One of the men was able to keep the fingers of one hand above the surface of the snow. He started moving them to begin the slow process of digging himself out. To read more, click here.

Skinning in the Pickets
Photo by Forest McBrian


--AAI Guide Forest McBrian recently completed the infamous Pickets Traverse in the Cascades on skis. Forest and his partner skied from Stetattle ridge to Hannegan Pass through both the southern and northern Pickets. He said that it was probably "like the Haute Route was 10,000 years ago." To read more, click here and here.

--When the two attackers accosted him on a snowy cross-country ski trail, demanding his car keys, Kevin Tracey thought it would be a simple robbery. He handed over his keys and then his backpack, thinking the men would be satisfied and go away. But, as he recounted Monday to a jury, the next moments turned into a horrifying ordeal of being brutally clubbed, strangled and left to die in the woods near Dougan Falls on the Washougal River. To read more, click here and here and here.

Sierra:

--AAI guide Kristen Looper was featured on page 16 in Climbing magazine's "Photo of the Month." Kristen is leading Space Truckin' (5.10a) in the Desolation Wilderness near Lake Tahoe.

--Yosemite National Park is initiating public scoping for the Curry Village Rockfall Hazard Zone Structures Project. Compliance with the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) and the National Historic Preservation Act (NHPA) will be coordinated through development of an environmental assessment (EA). The public scoping period for the EA will open on Thursday, February 25, 2010 and will extend through Wednesday, April 7, 2010. To read more, click here.

--Prior to the regular Mammoth Town Council meeting on Feb. 17, the Council met with the Airport Commission and discussed everything from the summer air service expected to kick off April 11 to the 10,000 enplanements necessary for the Town to be able to put in for its $1 million incentive. According to the Chair of Airport Commission, Pam Murphy, summer air service will run one flight per day to and from Los Angeles. The service, at this time, is expected to run from April 11 (starting directly after winter service ends) through the end of September. It will then shut down for a few weeks and re-open right before Thanksgiving. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--A citizens advisory panel Thursday approved increasing entrance fees at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The new fee schedule, which charges motorists $7 per vehicle for a daily pass on the scenic drive and $3 for bicyclists and pedestrians, could take effect as soon as March 1 if the recommendation gets final approval from Bureau of Land Management State Director Ron Wenker. A daily vehicle pass has been $5 since the user fee program was launched in 1997. Pedestrians, such as hikers and joggers, and bicyclists have been allowed to enter the park free. Visitors who hold $20 annual passes will be allowed to use them through their expiration dates. The new fee schedule sets the price of an "annual support pass" at $30. To read more, click here.

--Despite the recession, or perhaps because of it, 286 million visitors flocked to national parks last year, an increase of 10 million people. Utah's national park units attracted just over 9 million visitors during the year, up by 300,000. Interior Secretary Ken Salazar speculated Tuesday that the increases may have come because families on tight budgets view parks as bargains, parks offered free visitation on three weekends, and parks attracted extra attention because of President Barack Obama's visit to the Grand Canyon and Ken Burns's documentary on the history of parks. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

Bradford Washburn in 1941

--Bradford Washburn will be inducted into the Alaska Sports Hall of Fame on February 25. Washburn, who died in 2007 at the age of 96, was the pioneering mountaineer, photographer, mapmaker, and museum director for whom the American Mountaineering Museum in Colorado is named. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--An avalanche crashed down on a village in northwestern Pakistan, burying houses and leaving more than 50 people dead or missing, officials said last week. Rescuer teams digging into the snow and rubble almost a full day after Wednesday night's avalanche had recovered 38 bodies and had little hope that 14 people still missing would be found alive, local government Aminul Haq told Dunya television. To read more, click here.

--An avalanche killed a backcountry skier in Grand Teton National Park on Sunday morning. Wray Landon, Brady Johnston and Nathan Brown just summited the South Teton (12,514') via the Northwest Couloir. They skied a few hundred vertical feet down the Southeast Face when the snow fractured, caught Landon in a slide, and carried him over a 1,500' cliff. To read more, click here.

--A Colorado skier was missing after an avalanche occurred Tuesday afternoon near one of the Aspen area's most popular backcountry huts. Eight skiers were in the group when the avalanche happened around 4 p.m. near the Lindley Hut outside Ashcroft. The skiers, all locals, are very experienced in the backcountry, said Renee Rayton, Pitkin County Sheriff's deputy. To read more, click here.

While Pig Cycling is Unlikely to be an Olympic Event
Sport Climbing could be by 2020


--The International Olympic Committee has opened the door to the possibility of sport climbing as an Olympic event in 2020. On February 12th, the IOC formerly recognized the International Federation of Sport Climbing as the governing body for the sport. This particular step is one of the most important in the development of a new Olympic event. The IFSC is now frantically working to have climbing included in the 2020 summer games. To read more, click here and here.

--On Monday a nearly century old rule was changed. People are now allowed to carry loaded handguns, rifles and shotguns in national parks and wildlife refuges, as long as the state in which the park is located allows guns. The controversial rule change was part of a bill which congress passed in May. The rule's passage was a bitter defeat for gun-control advocates, and for others who worry that loaded guns will bring about more violence in now-peaceful places. To read more, click here. To read our opinion blog on this, click here.

--The Obama Administration is currently considering the creation of 14 new national monuments in nine states. The monuments will include sensitive areas like the Ceder Mesa and the San Rafael Swell in Utah. Conservative law-makers are up-in-arms about the possibility that more areas will be included on protected lists. To read more, click here.

Bolt bans often overlook the need to replace rusty bolts.

--The Pitkin County Open Space and Trails Board in Colorado has placed a temporary ban on bolting and drilling by rock climbers on county land. The moratorium will stay in place until they can develop a “comprehensive climbing management plan,” said open space ranger John Armstrong. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report - Feburary 24, 2010

RED ROCK CANYON:

At the base of Unimpeachable Groping, Ginger Buttress, last Friday. Photo by Dyan Padagas.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

NORTHWEST:

Gene on the first pitch of Chair Peak. Photo by Jason Martin.

-- Seems like every February in thePNW, we get a weekend of sun. Guess this past weekend was it. What did you do to get out? AAI guide Jason Martin did Chair Peak, and found the entire route was a cross between nevee waterice. Overall, it is in good condition. The best beta he can give is bring a 70m rope. This seemed to be the go-to route for this party as well.

-- AAI Guide Forest McBrian completed the Pickets Traverse on skis! Check out the trip report here.

-- Conditions video from the North Cascades from our Admin Assistant, Andrew Yasso, can be found here.

--The weather was perfect for Index cragging, as this group found.

Index cragging. Photo by Colin Bartholomew.

-- A super resource for Skykomish Valley Climbing can be found here.

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Sno-Park permits are available for purchase in Washington State. To purchase a permit and/or read more about them click here.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

-- Mt. Whitney lottery info can be found here.

--Check out this discussion on the Nutcracker tree.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.


ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.

--Forecast for Denali.

Route Finding: Magnetic Declination

Your compass is pointing in the wrong direction. You know it's not north. Indeed, it's nowhere near north.

So what's up? Is it broken? Defective? What?

The problem is that it's not pointing at "true north." Instead, it's pointing at "magnetic north." Most people don't realize that there are two North Poles, the real one and the fake one, the true one and the magnetic one.

The Compass Dude puts it a bit more succinctly:

Why are there two different poles? Good question!


The magnetic north and south poles are the ends of the magnetic field around the earth. The magnetic field is created by magnetic elements in the earth's fluid outer core and this molten rock does not align perfectly with the axis around which the earth spins.


There are actually many different sources of magnetic activity around and in the world. All those influencing factors combine to create the north and south attractions at each spot on the globe. The actual strength and direction of 'north' is slightly different everywhere, but it is generally towards the 'top' of the planet.


The difference between true north and magnetic north is referred to as the declination. If you are not aware of the declination in a given area, then you may not be able to locate true north.


Example of magnetic declination showing a compass needle
with a "positive" (or "easterly") variation from geographic north.
From Wikipedia

Modern compasses are designed in such a way that the declination may be set. If you adjust the compass properly allowing the arrow to line up, then you will get a reading which shows both where true north is as well as magnetic north.

Most compasses require one to set the red compass point a given number of degrees off of true north. Usually there is a screw on the back of the compass that will allow you to set the declination. Two lines, often referred to as "the shed," will shift the appropriate distance off of true north. Once this is set, you will be able to shift the compass to the point where the needle is in the center of the shed. The printed "N" will then point toward true north.

Unfortunately, the declination is not always the same from one area to another. Every place on the planet has its own local irregularities and due to the fact that magnetic north isn't actually at the top of the globe, there are other variables that need to be taken into account before setting the declination. Following is a short explanation from Wikipedia on the variables:

Magnetic declination varies both from place to place, and with the passage of time. As a traveller cruises the east coast of the United States, for example, the declination varies from 20 degrees west (in Maine) to zero (in Florida), to 10 degrees east (in Texas), meaning a compass adjusted at the beginning of the journey would have a true north error of over 30 degrees if not adjusted for the changing declination.


In most areas, the spatial variation reflects the irregularities of the flows deep in the earth; in some areas, deposits of iron ore or magnetite in the Earth's crust may contribute strongly to the declination. Similarly, secular changes to these flows result in slow changes to the field strength and direction at the same point on the Earth.


The magnetic declination in a given area will change slowly over time, possibly as much as 2-2.5 degrees every hundred years or so, depending upon how far from the magnetic poles it is. This may be insignificant to most travellers, but can be important if using magnetic bearings from old charts or metes (directions) in old deeds for locating places with any precision.

There are many ways to determine the declination. The first and most common way is to simply get it off of a USGS topo map. Unfortunately many maps are out-of-date and the declination may have changed. You may also get your declination from the web at the NOAA website, here.

Following is a short video which reviews many of the key points in this article:



To learn more about compasses and declination, the Compass Dude has a great site with a lot of valuable information.

Knowing how to use your compass well will help to keep you from getting lost... And staying found makes every trip a lot more fun!

--Jason D. Martin

Field Seminars and Teacher Trainings at Denali NP

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:

Registration Open for 2010 Field Seminars and Teacher Trainings in Denali National Park and Preserve

A wide variety of summer classes designed to immerse participants in different aspects of Denali National Park and Preserve’s cultural and natural history and provide an in-depth park experience are now available for registration with the Murie Science and Learning Center. The classes are small (no more than twelve participants), but the classroom is grand – the mountains, tundra and forest of Denali National Park and Preserve!

The seminars and trainings are for participants of all ages, and some are designed specifically for families. Offerings include seminars on birds, mammals, wildflowers, fly fishing, field journal writing, landscape painting, and drawing. Teacher trainings include geology, science writing, and using iMovie in the classroom. Professional development credit is available for both seminars and teacher trainings through the University of Alaska Anchorage.

A complete list of the seminars and trainings and registration is available at www.murieslc.org or by calling (888) 683-1269 or (907) 683-1269.

Most courses are based out of the Murie Science and Learning Center Field Camp, located 29 miles inside Denali National Park along the Teklanika River. From this spectacular location participants set out daily to explore Denali's diverse environments. The Field Camp includes rustic tent cabins and a common dining tent. All meals, accommodations, transportation, and instruction are included.

The Murie Science and Learning Center (MSLC) hosted at Denali National Park and Preserve, consists of many strong partnerships focused on ultimately increasing the effectiveness and communication of research and science results in the national parks. Specifically, the MSLC focuses its mission on providing research, discovery, and learning opportunities within arctic and subarctic National Parks to promote appreciation and caring for our natural and cultural heritage.

For additional information or to register, visit www.murieslc.org or call (907) 683-1269 or (888) 688-1269.

The Imapact of Guns in the National Parks

On the tiny summit of Forbidden Peak, a climber takes off his pack and empties the contents. He pulls out a water bottle, some sunscreen and his Glock handgun. On Astroman's crux Changing Corners pitch, a climber decides that it would be better to haul his shotgun. That way if it were to swing off his shoulder a little bit, it wouldn't get in the way of his cams. And on Denali's West Buttress, a team digs a cache at 13,100 feet. They fill the cache with bandoliers of ammunition...

Reality...?

Not even close.

Climbers up high in the mountains are unlikely to have to worry about the change in national park rules that goes into effect today. But climbers and hikers down low, in public campgrounds where the RV hordes and the wanna-be survivalists drink their beer, things have changed; and now those people will be allowed to legally carry weapons.

The nearly 100 year-old rule will be relaxed today on more than 84 million acres of land which include national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas and trails. This change, an evolution of changes sought by the Bush administration and Second Amendment advocates, was passed in May as an amendment to an Obama administration credit card reform bill.

Visitors will now be able to bring concealed and loaded weapons into national parks, as long as they abide by state rules regarding firearms. They still won't be permitted to bring weapons into federal buildings such as visitor centers or the White House; and they won't be allowed to bring them into concession buildings or on concession busses.

Obviously, some people carry weapons because they wish to defend themselves against violent crime.
However, in the national parks such crime is extremely uncommon. An article on AOL news brings this into perspective:

Violent crimes -- homicide, rape, robbery and aggravated assault -- have been declining for more than a decade in the national parks, according to FBI statistics. The rate for those crimes in 2008, the latest figures available, was 0.13 per 100,000 recreational park visitors. The nationwide crime rate: 454.5 per 100,000.

Arguably, permitted firearms have always been allowed on National Forest and BLM land and climbers have had few problems. Whether we will start to have safety issues in the national parks is subject to debate. However, more "tourists" visit the national parks than the National Forest and BLM locales. And it is possible that gun-toting city people in particular, who wish to express their Second Amendment rights may not be quite as responsible as those who visit the wilderness regularly.

What many news stories on this topic seem to have missed is the impact on animals in national parks. In September an armed angler shot a 175 lb female black bear near Lake Mary in the Eastern Sierra. The animal apparently got into the man's snack food. Scared and ignorant of how little danger he was actually in, the man subsequently shot and killed the bear.

The situation in the Lakes Basin was outside of any national park. And, by all accounts, the man was legally allowed to carry the weapon that he had with him. However, the angler was completely ignorant about bears, about food storage and about the reality of his situation. I have no doubt that the man thought that a bear getting into his marshmallows was a life-threatening situation and I have no doubt that his life was NOT in danger.

The result was a dead bear.

It is possible that with the advent of these new rules in the national parks that there will be a lot more dead animals. Many people who don't spend a significant time in the outdoors are likely to bring and show off their weapons simply to exercise their second amendment rights. Theoretically, it will be illegal to discharge said weapons, but that won't stop a few ignorants from shooting when they get scared by animals doing what they do in the woods...

--Jason D. Martin

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!

A few weeks back I posted something in relation to aid climbing, which of course gets me interested in big walls. I found this video of some guys taking some solid whips off of what they are arguing to be the most difficult big wall to date. This is a trailer to a longer film by BigUP Productions.



The following may as well be a trailer to a blockbuster film! I've got a couple titles already planned - "The Men with the Golden Cams," "Sending Takes Forever," or "The Asgard Project." Wait... the last one is the actual title. If you can put up with my horrible attempt to play off of James Bond Titles, you will accept the fact that this climbing film has the potential to thrill and create suspense in any viewer, just like 007 does. Check it out.

Red Rock Rendezvous Clinic Guides and Events

For the fifth-year running, the American Alpine Institute will be a key sponsor at the Red Rock Rendezvous in Red Rock Canyon.

Las Vegas, Nev. – The seventh annual “Mountain Gear Presents: Red Rock Rendezvous” (RRR) rock climbing festival announced its initial list of expert climbing guides to lead the event’s scheduled clinics. Clinic guides include internationally renowned athletes such as: Peter Croft, Alex Honnold, Brittany Griffith, Olivia Cussen, Matt Segal, Emily Harrington and the guides of the American Alpine Institute.

RRR will take place at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area near Las Vegas on March 19-21 to benefit The Access Fund, a climbing and environmentally focus organization, and other local and national non-profit organizations. This year’s event is limited to the first 1,000 registrants and early registration is recommended. To register, visit www.RedRockRendezvous.com.


The festival will also offer clinics for advanced and intermediate climbers on Saturday and Sunday. Registration is $99 per person for the Saturday and Sunday events, and $179 per person for the Friday “Intro to Climbing: UClimb” day and Saturday and Sunday clinic combo (without the gear package). Registration includes the Friday night opening celebration, a dinner buffet on Saturday night, demos, comps and mini-seminars by event sponsors, slideshow and movie on Friday
night, a blow-out party on Saturday night, pancake breakfast Sunday morning and service projects to assist in the environmental conservation of the Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain.

For the first time, RRR will also offer an intro to mountain biking clinic on Friday, March 19 that will teach basic biking skills and how to read off road trails. This Friday clinic along with the Saturday and Sunday climbing clinics will be $159 and will include the rental of a mountain bike provided by Specialized Bikes. Red Rock Rendezvous will also offer beginner, intermediate and advanced mountain biking clinics as part of the Saturday and Sunday clinic schedule.

RRR will also again offer a special “Intro to Climbing: UClimb” day designed for less experienced climbers and those who have never attempted the difficulty levels of the Red Rock Canyon. The intro day will be held on Friday, March 19 and will be hosted by UClimb, an organization designed to teach all ages how to rock climb in comfortable, small-group settings with other amateur climbers. The full-day introduction clinics will teach climbing fundamentals to succeed at the Red Rocks and other outdoor settings.

The introductory clinics will take place in an intimate clinic setting by professional guides from the American Alpine Institute who are also some of the world’s most accomplished climbers and mountain educators. “Intro” participants will then be able to enjoy one full day and one half day throughout the weekend. There will also
be an optional gear package that will include harness, helmet, shoes, belay device, carabineer, chalk bag and a membership to the Access Fund. The gear package with the “Intro” day and the weekend climbing clinics is $349.

All of the festival activities, outside of the climbing clinics, will take place at Spring Mountain Ranch State Park located approximately 10 minutes from the entrance to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. This year’s Red Rock Rendezvous participant camping will be at Bonnie Springs, one mile south of Spring Mountain Ranch. The festival will be running a shuttle bus between the campground and the festival locations throughout the event.

Event proceeds will benefit The Access Fund, a national non-profit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. Other benefiting organizations include the American Safe Climbing Association, the American Alpine Club, Friends of Red Rocks and the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council.

For additional information, call 800.829.2009 or visit www.RedRockRendezvous.com
.
If you're already visiting Red Rock Rendezvous, don't forget that we have a lot going on in Las Vegas around the Rendezvous. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:

In addition to all of the events going on around Red Rock Rendezvous, don't forget that AAI will have a lot of guides available for private guiding and instruction in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more, send us an email at info@aai.cc or give us a call at 360-671-1505.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 2/18/10

Between the aftermath of some giant avalanches in Afghanistan and Kashmir, some smaller avalanches in the United States, and a handful of climbing accidents, it's been a hard week. Pay very close attention to avalanche conditions and be very careful while climbing...

Northwest:


-- Authorities say the body of a climber who fell into the crater atop Mount St. Helens has been recovered. The Skamania County Sheriff's office says the body of Joseph Bohlig was found Tuesday, more than a day after the 52-year-old man tumbled 1,500 feet. Bohlig, of Kelso, Wash., reached the summit with a climbing partner after a four-hour hike Monday. Bohlig took off his backpack and a layer of clothing then decided to pose for pictures near the rim of the crater. He was backing up when the snow gave way and he fell. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--There is a movement afoot to name an unnamed Sierra Peak after Andrea Mead Lawrence, Olympic gold medalist, environmental activist and local politician. After a lifetime of working to protect the Eastern Sierra, supporters would like to honor Lawrence by naming a Sierra Peak in her honor. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:


--Two actresses have been cast in Danny Boyle's (Academy Awared winning director of Slumdog Millionaire and 28 Days Later) new film about a mountain climber pinned beneath a boulder. It's not clear exactly who Kate Mara and Amber Tamblyn will play in the reinvention of Aaron Ralston's Utah epic, but with James Franco as Ralston, it should be an interesting film. To read more, click here.

--Zion National Park is looking for volunteers to help park staff mark the boundaries of the park's new wilderness acreage and is inviting the public to visit on Friday. The wilderness designation is part of the Omnibus Public Land Management Act for Washington County, which was passed by Congress and signed into law by President Barack Obama on March 30, 2009. The law placed 124,406 acres under wilderness protection, 80 percent of them within Zion's boundaries. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--Troopers have identified the skier killed in an avalanche Saturday along Hiland Road as 60-year-old William Brasher Schorr of Eagle River. The avalanche came just after 4 p.m. in an area known as "Three Bowls," roughly three-quarters of a mile from Mile 7.3 of Hiland Road, said Alaska Mountain Rescue Group volunteers. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--The death toll from an avalanche that struck a major stretch of road connecting southern Afghanistan to the north and Central Asia has risen to 169. Officials expect that the number will continue to rise as rescue efforts turn to recovery in the Salang Pass. To read more, click here.

--Avalanches have killed another three Indian soldiers in Kashmir, bringing the military death toll in the snow-hit region to 21 in the last week, an army spokesman said Thursday. The latest deaths occurred when two separate avalanches hit army camps high on the Siachen glacier, a hotly disputed zone on the India-Pakistan border which, at 6,300-metres (20,800 feet), is known as the world's highest battleground. To read more, click here.

--An avalanche in the San Juan Mountains in southwest Colorado killed a backcountry skier and injured another. Two men in a group of seven people using the backcountry hut system got caught in the avalanche Thursday near Ridgway at about 11,500 feet, Ouray County sheriff's investigator Joel Burk said Friday. A 27-year-old Manitou Springs man died of his injuries, and a 24-year-old man whose hometown wasn't available was hospitalized with a dislocated hip, Burk said. It appeared the Manitou Springs man was killed instantly, Burk said. To read more, click here.

--Rescue crews spent Saturday trying to recover the body of a man who fell to his death in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. It appears that the man was a hiker with no climbing experience or equipment. To read more, click here.

--A 40 year-old man died Sunday after he fell nearly 50 feet trying to scale an ice wall near Fawns Leap waterfall on Route 23A in the Town of Hunter, said Maureen Wren, a spokeswoman for the Department of Environmental Conservation. Daniel Pawlik, a resident of Stamford, Conn., was flown by helicopter to Albany Medical Center where he was treated for severe injuries and later died, said Wren. To read more, click here.


--On Tuesday, the Access Fund announced the winners of its 2009 Sharp End Awards. Each year the Access Fund recognizes individuals and businesses that go above and beyond to volunteer their time and efforts to preserving climbing access and the climbing environment. These recipients stand out in their commitment to the American climbing community, and the Access Fund is honored to present this year's awards to a worthy group of volunteers and activists. To read more, click here.

--Former AAI Guide, Steve House, spent last Wednesday soloing two New Hampshire testpieces. According to Alpinist.com, An Ice Climber's Guide by Rick Wilcox describes the first line, Repentence (III WI5, 3 pitches) as "the classic hard ice line in the East" and the second line, Remission (IV WI5+ 5.7, 3 pitches) as "the most difficult route at Cathedral Ledge." To read more, click here.

--In October, Wojtec Kozub, Marcin Michalek and Krzystof Starek made an ascent of 4,500 foot unclimbed north face in Nepal's Khumbu Himal. The wall lies on Melanphulan (21,558'), a beautiful peak that has only seen one previous ascent. To read more, click here.

--In late January Dave Birkett climbed the first ascent of a winter line on the East Buttress of Scafell Pike in England's Lake District. Never Ever Say Never (VIII 8 or E7 5c) follows a thin strip of ice which links up three rock routes. To read more, click here.

Skiing Drunk can be Hazardous to your Health

--Wisconsin authorities say a drunken man stole an ambulance from a ski area with the patient still inside. The Dane County sheriff's office says Fitch-Rona emergency responders were treating a patient in the back of the ambulance at the Tyrol Basin Ski and Snowboard Area in Mt. Horeb on Monday night last week. A 24-year-old Illinois man got into the vehicle and drove it around the parking lot. To read more, click here.

--A 22-year-old German skier was hospitalized with hypothermia after being trapped for six hours in a chair lift that had been closed down for the night, police said Sunday. The man got on the lift 20 minutes after closing time Saturday evening to descend to the Kaltenbach-Hochzillertal ski resort in the Austrian Alps, police said. At that time, the lift was still running for maintenance, but it was shut down shortly afterward. To read more, click here.

--Papua's provincial administration and a foreign party named Papua-Explorer are jointly building a guesthouse dubbed Carstensz Shelter on snow-covered Mount Carstensz in Indonesia's most-eastern province. Papua-Explorer leader Dr.Werner F.Weiglein told here Thursday (Oct. 15) about the project on the sidelines of preparations by 18 journalists and Papua administration officials to visit the location where the Carstensz Shelter is being built. To read more, click here.

Timber Thinning Closes Tinkam Road to Public

The American Alpine Institute just got the following press release from Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest:

Everett, Wash. Feb. 17, 2010— The Forest Service has closed Tinkam Road (Forest Service Road 5500) at milepost .5 for logging 8 a.m. Monday through noon Friday until mid-March. Tinkam Road parallels the south side of I-90 from exit 42 to 47. The road will open for traffic Friday noon through Sunday and holidays. Hikers can still reach Asahel Curtis and McClellan Butte trailheads. The road is closed for public safety. “Tinkam Road is narrow with limited turnarounds. The area is not safe for public access with timber equipment that includes a loader, yarder, log decks and skyline cables,” said Jim Franzel, Snoqualmie District Ranger for the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Access to some recreation sites may require backtracking from exit 47, rather than ascending up the South Fork valley from exit 42. After the thinning on the south side of I-90 is complete, harvest operations will move in late spring and summer to the north side of I-90.

The Forest Service is thinning 350 acres of western hemlock, Douglas-Fir and western Redcedar, cutting trees 60-80 years old to improve the growth and health of those remaining according to Franzel. “Dense unthinned stands are more susceptible to insects, diseases, climate changes,” he said. “These are areas that were logged 70 to 80 years ago and we want to restore the stands to a healthy vigorous condition.”

Call Snoqualmie Ranger District for updates at 425-888-1421, or stop by the office at 902 S.E. North Bend Way, North Bend, Wash., 98045. For updated information about trails and roads, go to alerts and conditions on http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/ .

Conditions Report - February 17, 2009

RED ROCK CANYON:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

A Climber on Chips and Salsa in Red Rock
Archive Photo by Jason Martin


--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

N
ORTHWEST:

-- A super resource for Skykomish Valley Climbing can be found here.

AAI Guide Forest McBrian guided Triple Couloirs mid-week last week.

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Sno-Park permits are available for purchase in Washington State. To purchase a permit and/or read more about them click here.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.


Dan Helmstadter skied the North Face of Mount Shuksan last week.
Photo by Dan Helmstadter

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

--Enchantment permits info can be found by clicking here.

--AAI Guide Forest McBrian got after it last week, guiding Triple Couloirs on Dragontail Peak. They found snowy conditions without much ice. To read about the ascent, click here and here.

--Many parties got out over the weekend and last week even though the weather has been quite variable. Most people know that the Olympics have been having a hard time with weather. That same weather exists throughout the Pacific Northwest. This indivi
dual climbed an obscure peak called Old Man's Nose. This team climbed Vesper Peak. And these guys found a break in the weather to climb in Index.

--The skiing has been a bit tougher. This party checked out Mt. Hood. This party got back into t he Hidden Lakes peak region. And this party checked out Lichtenberg Mountain.

SIERRA:

-- The Mt. Whitney lottery is now in progress. Click here to be directed to the Inyo National Forest website.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

Tyler Lappetito on the North Arete of Matterhorn Peak on Monday
Photo by Bryce Stath

--Webcams for
Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

--There was a rockslide on Highway 140 on Tuesday. It is assumed that the road is still closed. For more information, click here.

--On Monday, this party attempted to make a winter ascent of Matterhorn Peak.

ALPS:


--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--The
American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.

--Forecast for Denali.