Fear of Falling - Clip-Drop Technique

The scariest thing in all of climbing is falling. And perhaps the hardest thing to do in all of climbing is to manage the fear of falling. The Clip-Drop technique is a way to train your brain to accept that falling is a part of the game and that in many cases, that falling is perfectly safe.

In a nut-shell, the Clip-Drop technique is simply what it says. You clip a bolt, climb up a bit and fall. You clip the next bolt, climb up a bit and fall again. The idea is that if you do this all the way up a route, you will become accustomed to falling and will be able to get past the fear of it.

The following video from Steep Media and UKclimbing.com illustrates the use of this technique in a climbing gym.

Fear of Falling - clip-drop technique from SteepMedia on Vimeo.

--Jason D. Martin

Agonizingly Close

So I'm down from the wall now and back in Boulder. I had fun up on the route but didn't manage the send. I did come about as close as possible though.

After redpointing the lower crux on Saturday, Sandy and I hiked to the base with all our gear on Sunday and hauled everything to the top of pitch 3. Early the next morning, I lowered down and worked the crux of pitch 3 (hard 12d). Sandy came down to the belay and I redpointed the pitch first try. We broke camp and then I started up on the next pitch (12a). I had done it years ago on TR, but didn't really remember anything. I decided to go for it pseudo-onsight rather than working the moves first. It took lots of patience figuring out the route because the first section meanders a lot before you get to the crack. I pulled it off though and then did the heavy haul. Pitch 5 goes at 12b and I remembered that it was a bit tricky at the end. I didn't want to waste the energy for a solid onsight try knowing that I could blow it right at the end, so I climbed it first taking rests at every few pieces. I got to the top and lowered down. With most of the beta figured out and the gear sussed, I sent on my next try. At this point, I was a bit tired from the climbing and hauling and decided to aid the next pitch (12c) to save more energy. Once I got to the top, I lowered down and worked it on TR. By the time I got back to the top of the pitch, it was almost dark, so I decided to haul the bag and set up camp -- leaving the redpoint for the next morning.

Hiking the final load up to the base

A scary load indeed!

On Tuesday morning, I first tried some of the moves on the second crux of the route, pitch 7 (13+). This pitch is a 12c thin traverse to a really tough vertical boulder problem on tiny holds. I tried the crux moves a bit trying to remember the sequence I had figured out in the past. After a few tries, a key crystal on one of the crimps crumbled and I didn't think I could do it using the same beta. Luckily, I figured out a slightly different way that wasn't significantly harder. Confident that I had a sequence, I came back to the bivy and lowered down to prepare for a redpoint of the lower pitch. To my surprise, the crack had seeped over night and was unclimbable. So instead, I headed back out the traverse of pitch 7 to try to understand the crux moves even more. After a few tries, the sun came around the corner and I was forced to quit. The rest of the day was mostly spent chilling on the portaledge. At the end of the day, Sandy and I lowered to the bottom of pitch 6 and I redpointed it.

Not much for the hands and tiny feet on the 12c section of pitch 7

Spending a rest day in style

My hope was to redpoint the next pitch Wednesday morning and make it to the final collection of hard pitches that evening. I was confident that I could do the rest of the climb if I could complete pitch 7 because everything else was 5.12 and below except for one 13a bouldery crux move which I had done in the past. Early in the morning, I gave a go at pitch 7. I climbed through the 12c, which was a harsh warmup, and then rested at a no-hands stance for a bit. Then I launched into the crux. I got near the end, but my hand popped off the crimp as I was preparing for the finish moves. I suspected that I crumbled a little part of the crimp, but wasn't completely sure. I tried the move a few times to make sure I could still do it the same way. Then I gave another try, but things went wrong. The moves are so technical and require such a high degree of precision that it's so easy for something little to go wrong. On my third try, I found myself staring down the final hold before things get easier. I only had the crimp with two fingers and the foot I was standing felt bad. I had to make a quick decision: go for the hold now, or try to get things in better position first. I chose to go for the hold and slapped the edge of it just as everything popped off. Unfortunately, I didn't stick it. I couldn't believe how close I had been and kept questioning if I made the right decision. When I got back to the belay, I realized that this attempt had left me with a blood blister at the top of my pointer finger and middle finger on the hand that holds the key crimp. Not good... I drained the blisters and gave one more attempt for the day but didn't come as close. I spent the rest of the day again sitting on the portaledge and making sure the blisters didn't fill back up. I figured I could give another good go the next morning.

My fingers after draining the blood blisters

On Thursday morning, I gave a few more tries but didn't come as close as the previous day. Hindered by bad skin and tired muscles, things just didn't feel as good. I could still do the crux in two overlapping sections, but it just wasn't clicking. I conceded for the day and then had to make the hard decision to go down. It was difficult because I knew I could do this move as well as the rest of the route and I had worked hard to get to this point. Still, the forecast for the next days was grimmer calling for higher winds and perhaps a snow storm. Additionally, I needed to be back in Boulder by Sunday. If the weather had been perfect, I probably would have had enough provisions to wait another day at this point and still climb the rest of the wall. It just wasn't right though and my psyche and confidence had faded.

I really wanted to succeed on the route, but I guess I'll just have to come back to it. Here's a photo of pitch 7 that will hopefully inspire me to get back soon. Can't deny that it is a beautiful place to climb. I just hope more holds don't break before my next attempt.

November and December Climbing Events

--November 27-29 -- West Cochise Stronghold Sweet Rock Campground, AZ --Cochise Stronghold Refuse Roundup 2009

--December 1 -- Bellingham, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

--December 2-4 -- Seattle, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

--December 5 -- Duluth, MN -- North Shore Style Climbing Competition 2009

--December 6 -- Berkeley, CA --Sierra Nevada Section Annaul Holiday Dinner

--December 9 -- New Haven, CT --Connecticut ABS 11 Bouldering Competition

--December 9 -- North Bend, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival - Index Support

--December 11 -- Bellingham, WA -- International Mountain Day Festival - Index Benefit

--December 12 -- Montbleu Resort, South Lake Tahoe --World Class Action Sports Cinematography featured at Tahoe Adventure Film Festival

--December 13 -- Sandstone, MN --Sandstone Ice Festival

--December 13 -- Bozman, MT --Bozman Ice Festival

--December 31-January 3 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- Joshua Tree Climbers Carnival

Consumerism and Climbing

I recently watched the excellent documentary, What would Jesus Buy? The film uses a theatrical troupe that poses as an anti-consumerism church as a window into today's shopping-driven lifestyles. This is a very serious topic, but the church and their tactics are also extremely funny. As a result, the sober nature of the subject matter can be addressed in a way that provides a non-confrontational look into how most Americans spend their time and money.

The Church of Stop Shopping is lead by a charismatic man who acts like a faith healer in order to stop people from buying into the need to constantly shop. The Reverend Billy preaches of the shopacalypse, an apocalyptic time when the world will literally collapse in on itself from too much shopping. The Reverend and his choir preach their message in front of Walmart and Starbucks and in churches across America. Check out the trailer below:



The documentary got me thinking. How do we as climbers and as outdoor people buy into the need to constantly get more stuff?

Clearly, based on the climbing and skiing and hiking gear stored in my garage, the Reverend Billy would see me as great sinner. A consumer with too much stuff for my own good.

However, I would argue that I use all my stuff until it wears out. I would argue that I don't spend my days hanging out in shopping malls and I would argue that I'm a fierce advocate for these sports that I love...sports that revolve around getting away from buying more stuff and getting people out to experience the outdoors.

I would also argue that the stuff we buy allows us to experience wild places that need protection. Our ability to see the beauty of these places leads us to become stewards of them, either from afar with our choice of elected officials and our donations to stewardship funds, or from close by with trailwork and litter cleanups. The stuff we as outdoors people buy leads us to be better advocates for wild places.

And indeed, many expeditions go to places where the entire economy is based on visiting climbers and trekkers. Not only do those who visit such places bring money into those communities, but they also bring aid in the guise of schools and medical care. Many who visit these places are so impressed by the people that they support foundations that provide such services to developing countries.

Now clearly, this is my defense of our lifestyles. And it's easy for us to get tunnel vision and to only see what's good for our own selfish interests. Certainly, the person who owns 700 pairs of shoes might have just as good a defense....but then again, maybe not...

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/26/09

Happy Turkey Day!

This week and weekend is traditionally the busiest time of the year for climbers in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, in Joshua Tree National Park, in Smith Rock State Park, in Zion National Park and in Indian Creek. Many people journey to these locations to take advantage of extra time off. If your on your way to one of these locations this weekend, it would be good to have a back-up plan for camping as most campgrounds will be full...

Northwest:

--Jordan Nicurit was hiking when he slipped and fell nearly twenty feet, crushing his pelvis. After three days of not eating anything, the man was forced to drag himself to a place where people could find him otherwise he would have died. His harrowing survival story, which took place in October, is just coming to light. To read about it, click here and here.

--Two teams established prominiate new routes in British Columbia's Coast Range over the summer. The first team put up a new line on Mount Combatant (12,322'). AAI guide Mike Pond was involved in the second team's ascent of a new variation on Mount Desire (8,549'). To read more, click here.

--A new film adapted from Cormic McCarthy's apocalyptic novel The Road, was shot on and around Mount Saint Helens. "Once you're up top on, it's pretty bare, and you can still see the devastation of 30 years ago," said Mortensen by phone from Los Angeles. Because the production team had to wait for a break in the weather, the St. Helens scenes were among the last ones filmed. To read more, click here.

--The Northwest-based Mazama Climbing Club has a grant program to promote adventurous climbing and provide resources for climbers to explore and attempt challenging climbs. While trips do not need to be at the leading edge of alpinism, special consideration will be given to expeditions contributing to the sport of mountaineering and alpine climbing by attempting new routs or significant repeat ascents. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--Yosemite National Park Rangers are asking the public's assistance in locating a missing person, who was last seen in Yosemite National Park on November 6, 2009. Anthony Clifton Green, Jr. was in the park and may have contacted his family from a pay phone at Happy Isles on November 7, 2009. His vehicle was found in the Wilderness Parking Lot. To read more, click here.

--Colin Haley and Dave Turner just made a sub-24 hour link-up of El Capitan and Half Dome on October 31, treating it as a fun training for their future missions to Patagonia. By choosing to go for the link-up (which involves roughly 5,000 feet of climbing0 so late in the season (their link-up was possibly the latest in the season anyone has pulled off) the pair spent 12 hours climbing in the dark by headlamp compared to only eight hours of climbing in daylight. To read more, click here.

--Another wild year of bear issues wrapped up in Mammoth Lakes with Wildlife Specialist Steve Searles presenting his year-end review at the November 18 Town Council meeting. Searles called this year "busy". Searles warned the public that not all of the bears have gone to sleep yet for the winter, so vigilance with food sources still needed to be maintained. "Five or six bears are working in the early morning hours and a car was recently broken into," Searles explained. He added that when more snow falls the bears would head into hibernation. To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

The Italian team that conquered K2 (1954). Standing, from left: Achille Compagnoni, Ugo Angelino, Dr Gino Pagani, Mario Fantin, Ardito Desio, Erich Abram, Gino Solda, Lino Lacedelli, Walter Bonatti, Sergio Viotto, Pino Gallotti. Front: Ubaldo Rey, Cirillo

--Lino Lacedelli, the Italian mountaineer, who died on November 20 aged 83, was the first man to conquer K2, the world's second-highest peak, a feat that generated national rejoicing in Italy but also unprecedented controversy. To read more, click here.

--A Nepalese man who climbed Mt. Everest at age 76 and became the oldest person to conquer the world's highest peak celebrated Monday official recognition of his achievement by Guinness World Records. To read more, click here.

--Japanese explorer Tamotsu Nakamura has made his third photographic expedition to the Nyainqentanglha and Kangri Garpo regions of Tibet. His photos literally illustrate mind-blowing first ascent potential. To see the photos, click here.

--Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff, the French duo first to climb the south face of Nemjung (23,425') in October referred to their new line as "maybe the most beautiful we have ever done, certainly the most continuously steep, sustained and constantly exposed." To read the details of their ascent, please click here.

--Rock and Ice posted a nice round-up of the sold-out, black-tie New York section dinner of the American Alpine Club with Stephen Venables. Stephen presented a slideshow on his life and his accomplishments including the only solo ascent of the East/Kangshung Face of Everest. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A man convicted of raping and assaulting a hiker in Marin County in 2005 may be spending the rest of his life in prison after being sentenced. Forty-six-year-old Terry Ray Hawes was sentenced to nearly 34 years in prison Tuesday after being convicted in a case that went to trial in June of this year after it had been delayed by legal battles over his mental competency. To read more, click here.


-- Former AAI Guide Steve House recently won the Boardman-Tasker prize for Mountain Literature for his book, Beyond the Mountain. To read more, click here.

--Supertopo.com has a very funny thread running about "after-the-fact funny bee sting stories." One of the stories starts by saying, "the injured bee crawled up my inner thigh toward “big bob & the twins,” and it gets worse and funnier from there. To read the post, click here.

--British climbers Steve Beckwith and Matt Traver recently climbed a new route on the Dragon's Horns, twin towers. The pair of towers are a prominent feature above the dense jungle on the Malaysian Island of Tioman in the South China Sea. To read more, click here.

--Peruvians Beto Pinto Toledo and Erick Albino climbed a new route on the south face of Urus central (18,011') in Peru's Ishinca Valley in the Cordillera Blanca. The line climbs steep snow up to 80 degrees. To read more, click here.

--National Geographic has named winners of the 'Best of Adventure' awards for 2009. Topping the list, as 'Adventurer of the Year' is extreme climber Dean Potter. Dean was filmed, as seen in the video below, flying in a specialized 'wingsuit.' He's since worked toward perfecting the art of human 'flying' from several locations around the world. To read more, click here.



--Max Dünßer, Reinhard Hones and Martin Schindele recently climbed a new nine pitch 5.12c route in South Africa in the massive Yellowwood Amphitheatre. The new route on the 1200 foot wall is called, Your Mother's Face. To read more, click here.

-- A man's body was found yesterday by a rock climber in Sydney, Australia. The body was approximately thirty feet from the top of the cliff and had been there for a month or more. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report -- November 25, 2009

RED ROCK CANYON:

--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Sno-Park permits are now available for purchase in Washington State. To purchase a permit and/or read more about them click here.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.

--Forecast for Denali.

High Altitude Oxygen

We are always hearing about 8000 meter mountains and the use of oxygen. Should it be used of should it be left behind?

This blog entry has absolutely nothing to do with this common debate about oxygen in the mountains, but instead explains what

There are really two systems being employed in the high mountains. They are the constant flow system and the demand system.

The constant flow system delivers oxygen on a constant basis through a face mask worn by the climber. A flow rate is set and the oxygen keeps coming at that rate until you are out. This system is also often referred to as the Poisk system.

The second kind of oxygen flow system is the demand system. In this system, the climber wears a nose pipe that only provides oxygen when you inhale. The value of this system is that it's running half the time that a constant system is running. As a result, you have to carry half of the oxygen cylinders that you might carry otherwise.

The demand system has been used for nearly twenty years, but it has some problems. These include frozen tubes and release of oxygen when not in demand.

There is a third alternative which is a heavier and less realistic system and that is the closed circuit oxygen system. Most systems are a combination of the ambient oxygen in the air and supplemental oxygen from a bottle. In a closed circuit system, all of the oxygen is coming from a bottle, which could theoretically reduce the altitude feeling to sea level.

As the weight of all that oxygen is unrealistic, there has never been a valid test of a true closed system.

In the following video, we see the different parts of a normal constant flow system.



The first ascent of Everest in 1953 required quite a bit more in weight and old school technology. The following video shows a diagram of the original oxygen system and quickly describes how it worked.



The oxygen debate is one that will always rage, but that has nothing to do with the actual oxygen systems. If you choose to use oxygen in the high mountains, research each of the different systems, including brands and models available. Your summit and your life depend on making the right choice.

--Jason D. Martin

Lynn Hill - Visualization and Patience

In this climbing technique video, world class climber Lynn Hill demonstrates her movement on a world class climb. While she is climbing a 5.13a, she talks about how to be patient and how to visualize the movement while resting.

Most of us won't be climbing 5.13s anytime soon, but that doesn't mean that this advice isn't apt. Lynn's recommendations are just as valid on a 5.6 or a 5.10 as they are on a 5.13.



--Jason D. Martin

Surprise

So I had a pleasant surprise yesterday. I redpointed the first pitch which is a tough 12c for the first time. Then I started out on the second pitch. It was definitely a bit colder and there were some clouds which shaded the wall at times. Conditions felt better, but still not perfect. I was planning to try to link into the crux dyno to see how it felt from the start. I wasn't really serious about redpointing the pitch because I knew there was a move past the crux that I hadn't remembered how to do on my previous attempt. I did the first two cruxes and then pulled the last crux that leads to a good pod before the dyno. I rested at the pod for a while and then set up into the small crimps and bad feet that you jump from. Everything felt pretty good so I lunged to the left and to my surprise, stuck the hold. All of a sudden, I realized that I could redpoint the pitch right then. I was worried and nervous about the moves ahead which were still a bit unfamiliar. I took my time though, milked the rests, and somehow made it to the better slopey holds at the end of the pitch. At this point, I wanted to get to the end so badly that all technique went out the window and I grovelled my way to the jugs at the top of the pitch. I was so surprised that it was hard to believe that I had just done it. I really wasn't expecting this. I thought maybe I would have a chance in the morning shade when conditions were better, but in the afternoon sun? I guess things just came together well and I got a little lucky.

After a little rest, I went up on the third pitch (12d) to refresh the sequence. I came back down and prepared for a redpoint. I made it through the first half of the pitch just as dusk rolled in and as I rested at a good stance in the middle, everything became dark. I switched on my headlamp and gave a go at the crux section of the pitch. Only a few moves in, I was doing a technical foot move and couldn't see or feel the foot hold I was supposed to use. My other foot slipped and I was off. I gave up for the evening and came down to the valley floor to collect all the gear for spending a bunch of days on the wall.

I'm heading up there today soon and will haul all my gear up and spend tonight on the wall. Tomorrow morning, I'll give the third pitch another go and hopefully send first go. Then I'll try to climb the next three pitches (12a, 12b, 12c) and set up bivy before pitch 7 -- the next major 13+ crux. From there it all depends on how I feel and whether or not luck favors me. Hopefully I can sneak out a redpoint of pitch 7 on the next morning and then cruise up to the final cruxes on the route. I'll have enough gear to spend about 5 days up there so hopefully I can get it done. It'll definitely be tough though.

Here's the video of me climbing Midnight Lightning V8 a few days ago. It's not the best quality and is a bit squat for some reason, but no time to fix it now, got to get on the wall. Psyched!

Midnight Lightning from Matt Wilder on Vimeo.

November and December Climbing Events

--November 22 -- Baltimore, MD --Loyola University Maryland ClimbMax Climbing Competition 2009

--November 26 -- Vancouver, BC --4th Annual Reel Rock Film Tour

--November 27-29 -- West Cochise Stronghold Sweet Rock Campground, AZ --Cochise Stronghold Refuse Roundup 2009

--December 5 -- Duluth, MN -- North Shore Style Climbing Competition 2009

--December 6 -- Berkeley, CA --Sierra Nevada Section Annaul Holiday Dinner

--December 9 -- New Haven, CT --Connecticut ABS 11 Bouldering Competition

--December 11 -- Bellingham, WA -- International Mountain Day Festival

--December 12 -- Montbleu Resort, South Lake Tahoe --World Class Action Sports Cinematography featured at Tahoe Adventure Film Festival

--December 13 -- Sandstone, MN --Sandstone Ice Festival

--December 13 -- Bozman, MT --Bozman Ice Festival

Yosemite Update

I've been in Yosemite for about a week now and the weather has been amazing. In fact, it's been so nice that it's been a bit too warm on Lurking Fear. I've worked the crux pitch three days now and am trying it again this afternoon. On the first day, I spent most of my time searching the rock for the minute holds on the crux 2nd pitch. I figured out most of the moves, but left some for later. My second day up there was pretty much a wash. I went up pretty early in the morning hoping that the route would still be in the shade because it's on the west side of El Cap. Unfortunately, the route is in the sun all day long this time of year because the sun is so low. I tried some of the moves on the crux pitch, but it was so hot that I was worried I'd slice my fingers to shreds. So I came down and did a bit of bouldering instead. The bouldering conditions were so amazing that I started wondering if I was doing the wrong thing focussing on a bigwall route. On my third day on the route, I came up late planning to do most of my climbing after dark -- strange to be doing that in November in Yosemite. I made progress on the crux pitch doing some long links and coming close to sticking the crux sideways dyno. The dyno is a bit harder now because a key hold that you used to dyno from broke. It still goes though and probably isn't too much harder. Hopefully today I'll get more links and stick the crux move a few times.

On Sunday, I'll head up there, haul the first three pitches and stay the night at the base. Then Monday morning, I'll have a last ditch effort at redpointing the crux pitch. I'm not too optimistic that it will go because the climbing is very technical and delicate and it's easy to make a mistake. Plus it will be difficult to keep my skin good and my feet from hurting throughout the whole pitch. Even if I don't redpoint the second pitch, I'll still climb the rest of the route and try to do most everything else free. If I do manage to pull off the 2nd pitch, I'll still have lots of hard climbing to the summit including the other crux pitch which could prove to be more desperate (though it is shorter). In either case, it should be a fun outing and the weather looks perfect.

I'm psyched.

Unfortunately, I don't have any interesting photos from the wall. I have a short low-quality video of me repeating Midnight Lightning that I'll try to put up tomorrow before I get on the wall.

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Ahoy there Weekend Warriors!

I found a couple videos for this weeks post that I really think you'll enjoy. They are made by the Rocky Mountain Sherpas, a very talented group of filmmakers who are passionate about the outdoors, especially when it is covered with snow! I hope you enjoy, both these videos are award winners at the Whistler film fest and are well worth watching.

Vertical Limit - An Instructional Video

Hold your breath! Okay, you can let it out now. There wasn't that much a reason to hold your breath, because the 2000 film, Vertical Limit is dumb.

It has been discussed here in the past and in many other climbing forums and blogs. There is no other way to put it...

Vertical Limit is stupid.

Maybe I should make this a little bit more clear. Vertical Limit is perhaps the most ludicrous climbing film of all time. There is not one iota of truth or reality in the entire movie from the beginning to the end. And in many cases, the storyline is so outrageous that it is actually comical.

So a small group of climbers decided that the best way to use the content of this film was to make an instructional climbing video out of it. Hilarity ensues...



--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/19/09

Northwest:

--The body of a 54-year-old man from Coquitlam, B.C., was found in the Mt. Baker wilderness Monday, Nov. 16, close to where he was last seen by his wife. The man was reported missing at about 2:30 p.m. Sunday. He was found by search and rescue workers at about 5:40 p.m. the next evening. His name is being withheld until family members have been notified, said Deputy George Ratayczak of the Whatcom County Sheriff's Office. The man was found buried in about 18 inches of snow 60 to 80 yards outside of the backcountry gate of the Mt. Baker wilderness. He apparently had fallen off a cornice and was buried upside down, Ratayczak said. To read more, click here.

A Climber in Index
Photo by Alasdair Turner

--Cascadeclimbers and the Boalps have among many others have run successful campaigns to raise money for the purchase of the Index climbing area. The Cascadeclimbers event over the weekend was quite successful. The American Alpine Institute will be running an Index event on December 11th. To learn more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

-- On the evening of Sunday, November 15, park staff of Pinnacles National Monument assisted two male climbers, from the San Jose area, off of a climbing route after they had become stranded due to nightfall. Both climbers were uninjured. The climbers were able to place a cell phone call to a friend, who contacted the park, around 6:00PM after they could no longer climb in darkness. They were near the top of "Condor [Condom] Condiment", a 500 foot route on the Condor Crag formation in the High Peaks area of Pinnacles National Monument. The climbers were in different locations on the route and could not complete the final 100 feet without additional light. Rangers contacted the party via their cell phone and determined their approximate location and condition before the climber's phone battery was exhausted. To read more, click here.

----Federal officials plan to spend $11.7 million for about 5,000 acres of private land in national monuments, forests and recreation areas in three Western states. The largest purchase announced Monday was for 4,573 acres in the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument in southwestern Colorado. The 166,000-acre monument, about 380 miles southwest of Denver, has the country's highest known density of archaeological sites. This money also includes purchases in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. To read more, click here.

--Joshua Tree National park employees are at work this week closing off abandoned mine shafts. In the current phase of mine closures, National Park Service employees will close 11 holes at eight sites while contractors will close 29 holes at an additional 14 sites throughout the park. To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

--A renowned Slovenian mountaineer has been found dead in the Himalayas. Tomasz Humar, 40, last contacted his base on Monday to say that he had been injured while climbing a peak in Nepal. Viki Groselj, a fellow Slovenian mountaineer and friend of Mr Humar, told the Associated Press that he had broken his leg and become stranded. To read more click here and here.

Notes from All Over:

The Jungfrau

--The trial of two Swiss mountain guides charged with involuntary manslaughter for the death of six army recruits is underway in the eastern Swiss city of Chur. On July 12, 2007, the guides gave the go-ahead for the group of soldiers they were leading to ascend the Jungfrau mountain despite a high risk of avalanche. The defendants face up to three years in prison if found guilty by the military tribunal. To read more, click here.

--The second year of the American Alpine Club's Patagonia Sustainable Trails Project has kicked off with a trail-restoration educational course for 17 Argentinean rangers from eight national parks across Patagonia. The course, held October 24 to November 1, was organized by AAC member Rolando Garibotti, directed by Max Ludington, a National Park Service (NPS) seasonal trail crew leader based out of Jackson Hole, and coordinated by Claudio Chehebar, director of the regional office for all Argentinean Patagonia national parks. To read more, click here.

--Federal officials plan to spend $11.7 million for about 5,000 acres of private land in national monuments, forests and recreation areas in three Western states. The largest purchase announced Monday was for 4,573 acres in the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument in southwestern Colorado. The 166,000-acre monument, about 380 miles southwest of Denver, has the country's highest known density of archaeological sites. To read more, click here.

--Tired of constant threats to close California’s state parks, a coalition of environmental and nonprofit groups has proposed a ballot initiative that would charge motorists an additional $18 to register their vehicles in exchange for free admission to the state parks. The registration fee would apply to all California vehicles, including motorcycles and recreational vehicles. Larger commercial vehicles, mobile homes and permanent trailers would be exempt. In exchange, Californians would no longer pay day-use or admission fees at any state park. To read more, click here.

--This week we did a round-up of all the literary awards offered this Fall. To see them, click here.

Conditions Report -- November 18, 2009

RED ROCK CANYON:

--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Sno-Park permits are now available for purchase in Washington State. To purchase a permit and/or read more about them click here.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

Geoff Georges skinning up to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo by Jessica Todd

--Jessica Todd and her friend skied up to Mt. Rainier's Camp Muir last weekend to check out the conditions. She was rewarded with some good turns with the exception of some pea soup down lower. To read the full report click here.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

John Mauro ripping up the powder at Stevens. Photo by Greg Louie

--Greg Louie and friends headed up to Stevens Pass last Saturday and were greeting by some fantastic conditions. To read the full report click here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.

--Forecast for Denali.