Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Well Warriors, another weekend is upon us and I have decided to do something a little different this week.  I decided to mix it up with some other extreme outdoor sports.  I figured that all Weekend Warriors can appreciate beautiful scenery, insane athletes, and a healthy dose of pure adrenaline.  So grab your coffee, hold onto your armchair and use caution if you have high blood pressure, because these will get your blood pumping!

The first video features some very talented mountain bikers flying down dirt trails, defying gravity, and risking serious bodily harm all at the same time.  Enjoy!



If the first video didn't get that heart rate up than this one sure will.  I think that base jumping combined with these "squirrel suits" is the closest that humans have ever come to flying without using any type of motor.  Pure adrenaline and purely incredible.

Carabou Recovery Rock 'n Roll!

AAI just received this email from the Conservation Connection:

This month, more than a year after the original landmark agreement for the highly endangered mountain caribou, the British Columbia government legalized a caribou recovery plan that protects more than 90% of the caribou's best winter habitat from logging and road building. That's more than 2.2 million hectares (5.4 million acres), an area eight times the size of North Cascades National Park, of globally unique Inland Temperate Rainforest.

The victory comes following years of hard work by Conservation Northwest and our close allies, Wildsight, Forest Ethics, and others in the Mountain Caribou Project. Still needed is careful attention to conservation "IOUs" promised in the original agreement. But today, one of North America's most endangered mammals, the mountain caribou, just became a little less endangered.

Tour Planning and Navigation - Part 1

Tools for Success

Planning a backcountry ski or climbing trip encompasses a wide range of details that can ultimately define the safety and success of any adven
ture into the wild. In the field climbers make countless difficult decisions dealing with route options and safety. Why not be prepared for them with a bomb-proof Tour Plan? Here we will detail the materials needed to get you started.

Details, Details. A USGS 7.5 minute series map is the preferred scale for domestic trips.

The basic sighting compass with adjustable declination, slope meter, sight, mirror, and rulers.

The basic materials for any trip are a good map and compass. Without the ability to interpret them both, route finding would be pretty tricky eh?

We want to have as detailed up to date maps as possible so that major route options and hazards can be easily identified before the trip and found along the way. The United States Geological Survey (USGS) produces multiple series maps covering a vast majority of the United States and parts of other countries. Typically domestic outdoor recreationist use the USGS 7.5 minute scale topographic series maps which offer excellent detail. If traveling in other countries similar map series can be found, some of which will offer even more accurate detail than the maps found in the US, and others well….good luck.

A sighting compass is also one of our most valuable tools in the mountains. Like selecting a new car, make sure your compass has all the options, but not
so many that you will get confused with it. A basic sighting compass with mirror, and adjustable declination arrow will make your orienteering efforts much more accurate especially when triangulating (resection) on unknown locations. Other options that make things plush are a built in slope meter, distance rulers (printed on the base plate), and a magnifier (which I use to ID snow crystals). Prices range from a few bucks to hundreds of dollars, in my experience don’t spend hundreds but get something a little higher end than the one from your 8yr olds outdoor detective kit. You want something with a few more options.

Write in the rain #311 notebook

Tools of the trade. GPS, Altimeter, Map tool, and map…

Brooks Range Map Tool. Sweet!
In the digital age we can use a few more items to make our planning and route finding more efficient. Knowledge and use of basic GPS units, an altimeter, and a map/utm grid tools will help you create pinpoint accurate plans in little time.

Get yourself an altimeter! This can be one of the most useful planning and navigational tools. I also use this item to help forecast weather events by monitoring the barometer/altimeter at camps. Currently the most common wrist top altimeter watch can be found at just about any outdoor retailer and is made by Suunto. You can also look for a really cool large yellow plastic thing on someone’s wrist at your local rock climbing wall. It’s probably an altimeter watch. Ask them “whats your elevation man?” for me…


A GPS unit can make planning, in conjunction with a computer, super easy. Getting acquainted with these sytems can take time but will create a plan quickly and can be printed out at home custom, with a multitude of different mapping programs. When selecting the right program for yourself realize that they all have there limitations, and one user may prefer one over another, most systems create the same product so it is important to ask around and see what other users recommend with the ever changing technology. Personally
I use a basic Garmin GPS unit, in conjunction with the National Geographic TOPO program. This seems to work really well for all of the western US and Alaska. Disclaimer: A GPS is not a replacement for good map reading and compass work! Get really good with your maps.

Now find yourself a Brooks Range (www.brooks-range.com) All –in- One map tool for easy UTM grid reading, and distances on varying scales of maps. This tool incorporates just about all the information you need to formulate an accurate tour plan on almost any type map. Now… put all of this information into a nice weather proof journal. I use the Write in the rain #311 (www.RiteintheRain.com) type book for all planning, forecasting, and snow science reports. That’s a lot of information! Guess what? You will be super excited to have it when making difficult decisions with your friends!


Have fun!

Where am I? aHH

-- Ben Traxler, AAI Guide


Oh so close

Got back on Terre de Sienne this morning and came even closer. Here's footage of my attempt. If I had a second longer before my left foot popped, I might have sent. Anyway I've still got one more day to get it done. It looks like Saturday might be a bit cooler too - today was low 80s (though the strong breeze helped things some). Below is a photo from my close attempt the previous day I stuck the move and fell when my right hand blew off the starting crimp. I like how the only thing connecting me to the wall is the horrible crux crimp. It's as if I'm trying to hold the swing even though everything else has come off the wall. Anyone who is familiar with this hold knows how absurd that would be. At least I was trying hard.

warning: may contain bad language





I tried Algerita a bit after Terre and figured out some more beta. Then I did El Techo de los Tres B which has gotten easier since a hold got bigger. I wasn't really expecting to do it but gave a try from the start anyway and everything worked out. It seems like it is now V12 or V11. Not sure. I guess some people have suggested V11 and I could definitely see that. It is probably more classic now as well.

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- February 26, 2009

Northwest:

--A cross-country skier who was beaten and apparently left for dead has three college students to thank for saving his life. Robert Tracey, 52, told investigators that two men attacked him Monday near Dougan Falls, along Washington's Washougal River. He said one even came back and choked him. The men then left Tracey in the snow and may have taken his SUV, which is now nowhere to be found. A trio of college students who set out on a hike that day happened upon Tracey and could not believe what they saw. To read more, click here.

Mount Rainier
From planetware.com


--Mount Rainier National Park will conduct a test of the Geohazard Warning Siren at the Nisqually Entrance on Saturday, February 28, 2009, at 12:00, noon. The park is testing the new system and attempting to familiarize visitors, local residents and staff with the siren in the event of an actual geohazard. The Geohazard Warning Siren is designed to warn park staff and visitors of sudden geohazards, including lahars and smaller debris flows. Without warning, debris flows and glacial outburst floods can occur at any time, eroding stream banks and scouring everything in their paths, including rocks and trees. In case such an emergency occurs within the park, it is recommended that visitors head up hill, away from rivers and streams, and rising water. Avoid crossing any running water once the siren has been activated. Geohazard sirens are located at Cougar Rock Campground, Longmire, and Nisqually Entrance. To read more, click here.

--Prolific ice climbers Will Gadd and EJ Plimley recently climbed Canada's thrid tallest waterfall. The 1,000-foot tall Hunlen Falls in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, east of Bella Coola, British Columbia, provided the climbers with a stunning and dangerous ascent. The route was in incredibly poor shape and the team faced the possibility of the route's collapse throughout their ascent. To read more, click here.

Southwest:

Red Rock Mural

--Artist Sherri Lewis recently finished this phenomenal wooden mural of "The Escarpment" in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. This mural was recently featured on a thread in supertopo.com. To see the thread, click here.

Sierra:

--A mountaineer from South Korea is alive after being trapped in a Yosemite avalanche. Injured Monday when a slab of snow cut loose on the steep slopes beneath the face of Half Dome, rescuers pulled Jun Ho Wang off the slope by helicopter Tuesday. To read more, click here.

--High avalanche danger led to a snow slide in bounds at the June Mountain Ski Area. A local snowboarder was carried on a wave of snow and suffered minor injuries. Skiing below the Mid Chalet, the snowboarder triggered a slide in an area that had seen much avalanche control over the past few days. When the pocket of powder slid, the boarder was carried about 100 feet before he hit a tree and stopped. The avalanche continued down the slope without him. Hitting obstacles like trees and rocks while being carried by an avalanche commonly cause major trauma, but in this case the snowboarder was relatively uninjured. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A terrifying video has made its way around the web. It appears that an Argentinian guide suffering from an altitude related illness was abandoned on Aconcagua by his would-be rescuers. A video that has lit up the web like wildfire shows the rescuers making feeble attempts at reviving the man and then leaving him. To read more, click here.

--National Forest lands, desert landscapes and the National Park Service (NPS) will receive $2.5 billion under the stimulus plan signed by President Obama yesterday. The money will pay for improvemtns to visitor facilities, road and trail restoration, preservation of building of cultural and historical importance, rehabilitation of abandoned mines and oild fields and environmental cleanup projects. To read more, click here.


Pike's Peak
Photo from Wikipedia

--Hikers who climb to the summit of Colorado's Pikes Peak but call for a rescue so that they don't have to walk the 12 miles back down could soon have to pay for their ride. The Colorado Springs city council is expected to vote Tuesday on a proposal from Pikes Peak Highway officials that would charge up to $500 for each uninjured hiker who calls 911 for a ride down. To read more, click here.

--An Alps like mountain range was recently discovered under the Antarctic ice. Flying twin-engine light aircraft the equivalent of several trips around the globe and establishing a network of seismic instruments across an area the size of Texas, a U.S.-led, international team of scientists has not only verified the existence of a mountain range that is suspected to have caused the massive East Antarctic Ice Sheet to form, but also has created a detailed picture of the rugged landscape buried under more than four kilometers (2.5 miles) of ice. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report -- February 25, 2009


RED ROCK CANYON:

Spring conditions on Mt. Wilson in the morning light (2008) Photo by Jason Martin
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The hours to the scenic drive recently changed. The BLM has begun to open the loop at 7 AM in order to save money. Please call Mark Tenaka-Sanders, the Las Vegas Field Office manager at 702-515-5365 to complain.

JOSHUA TREE:

Climbing Illusion Dweller.  Photo by Andy Farley

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

--The climber's coffee program runs every Saturday morning and will begin to run both Saturday and Sunday mornings beginning in February. This program takes place in the Intersection Rock parking area and allows climbers and rangers to exchange ideas and information. Climbers generally meet at around eight in the morning.

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth and Highway 2.

--This past weekend a team headed up to do a winter ascent of Mount St. Helens.  They were greeted with good conditions and fantastic views.  One of the climbers, Ryan Canfield, made a great trip report complete with photos and videos.  Check out his video below and read the trip report here.

Summit Of Mt St Helens In The Winter (2/20/2009)


--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.

--A party cruised up to Manning Park to do some ice climbing in the Sumallo Bluffs last weekend.  They found near perfect ice on the Landmark Gully.  Check out the complete trip report here.

Landmark (left) and Busowski/Kippan (right).  Photo by Marc-Andre Leclerc

--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.

--Interested in climbing Mt. Hood soon?  Check out this trip report and video of a party climbing the West Crater last Saturday.




SIERRA:

Rider at Mt. Rose, Tahoe Backcountry.  Photo by Seth Burke

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

--There hasn't been a lot of snow in the Sierra this winter, but parties are still getting out and skiing. Large groups are now visiting Lee Vining Canyon to ice climb every weekend.


ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

--The Alaska season will start up in April. We are now accepting applications for our 2009 Denali expeditions and our 2009 Alaska Range Mountaineering Programs.

North Cascade Highway

AAI just received the following email from the Washington State Department of Transportation:

The preliminary best guess is that we'll be able to start reopening the North Cascades Highway the last week in March or the first week in April.

Our Avalanche Control and Maintenance technicians traveled from the east closure point at Early Winters, west of Mazama 20 miles to Rainy Pass on snowmobiles and a snow cat this morning, assessing the conditions. They encountered overcast skies, 27 degree temperatures and no new snow. Only 4/100ths of an inch of precipitation was recorded in the last 24 hours, and most of that was rain. We expect to be able to free up the personnel and equipment we need for the reopening from Stevens Pass and some of our other facilities by late March or early April, depending on weather, equipment and manpower.

They found only moderate snow depths this year. For example the snow at Washington summit is only 5-1/2 feet deep when it's usually 7 to 9 feet deep. At the same time they found more slides and they’re a different consistency - they look like lava. The slides at Liberty Bell Mtn., just east of Washington Pass are an example: The highway passes under them, and loops back to the east around Spiral Gulch.

The snow is 40-feet deep and 1200-feet wide below LB 2 and 3, but it came down with such force that the same slide covered the highway on the opposite side of the gulch with snow that’s 25-feet deep and 1200 feet wide. Further east in the avalanche chutes in the Cutthroat Ridge zone,some slides were as much as 20 feet deep and 12 to 1500 feet wide. Another anomaly for this season is a 40-foot deep slide near Bridge Creek, between Rainy and Washington Passes. The avalanche crew had never seen a slide there before.

The highway was closed for the season on December 11th. Last spring, the highway reopened on May 1st. Visit the WSDOT FlickR photo page to view pictures from the assessment:

www.flickr.com/search/?q=WSDOT&s=rec

For more information, visit the North Cascades Highway web page:

www.wsdot.wa.gov/Traffic/Passes/NorthCascades/

The official news release with the official scheduled dates and some of the photos should be approved and posted sometime tomorrow. Lets hope that the lava-look avalanches are only a crust and won't take any longer to cut through than normal - a nice, uneventful 4 week clearing effort would be nice - we've had enough "disasters" this winter...!

80 plus degrees

Just finished up a hot day of bouldering. I still managed to get some good burns on my projects though. I hit it early, just after the park opened at 8am. First objective was Terre de Sienne. I warmed up and started getting ready to give it a go. As I was waiting for any sort of breeze to cool my hands a bit, Tim Clifford and gang showed up. I waited a bit longer for the conditions to improve and then decided to give it a go. On my first try, I stuck the first move with three fingers and didn't quite have it good enough to do the next move. My skin started rolling on the small crimp just as I was getting my feet positioned into the drop knee. Still this was the first time I stuck the move so it felt great anyway. I gave a few more burns and came very close to sticking the hold again on a few occasions but it didn't happen. I know I can do it now so I'll just rest tomorrow and get back to it on Thursday - hopefully there will be a bit more wind then. Tim tried it some and came close to sticking the first move.

I got back to the headquarters before 10 and hooked up with Glen and Heather for a tour out to the East Spur. I was psyched to get back out Coeur de Leon V13. My first two goes were ok but I tried slightly different beta which ended up being worse. On my third try, I went back to my original beta and came closer but still fell. On the fourth try, the problem went down. I was psyched to do it because I was pretty sure that I wouldn't get it done and probably wouldn't get back to it on this trip. I was sure that that was my last try as well because it was really cutting the skin on my right pointer finger which is crucial for Terre and my left bicep was hurting from the stressful underclinging. It's great that I managed to pull this one off. If I can only complete Terre de Sienne and Algerita, it will be an amazing trip. As it stands now, I've already had a successful trip and would still be psyched even if I didn't do anything else.

Hopefully the weather improves slightly for my last two days of climbing. I'm prettty sure now that I won't compete in the Rodeo because it will be hot and I will run the risk of hurting myself trying so many hard problems.

Film Review: Touching the Void

The following review was first published at Movies Online in 2003. Touching the Void has been available on DVD for nearly six years and may be obtained at any video store. This piece was written for a non-climber audience.

I recently rewatched this film and there is no doubt in my mind, this tremendous documentary still packs a whole lotta' punch!

__________________________________________________________________



In the 1993 catastrophe of a film,
Cliffhanger, Sylvester Stallone scaled vertical rock walls in freezing ice storms wearing nothing but a tank top. In the year 2000, Tom Cruise ascended a steep desert tower without ropes or any other type of climbing gear to protect himself in Mission Impossible 2. And who could forget Chris O'Donell as a nitroglycerin toting rescuer in that ludicrous attempt at a climbing movie called Vertical Limit? Yes, big Hollywood movies which include mountain climbers of any type over the last few years have done little more than to portray ridiculous plots with equally ridiculous characters. So walking into the new independent film Touching the Void was a little frightening. The last thing I needed to see was yet another half-witted actor struggling to remember five word sentences in a mind-numbing action movie.

Touching the Void is anything but a predictable action film. Indeed, the movie is a documentary or a docu-drama, instead of a conventional film and is based on the best-selling memoir by Joe Simpson of the same title. A large percentage of American audiences hear the word documentary and run screaming from the theatre. But this piece is different, the story and the adventure narrative behind it make the film an utterly compelling piece of entertainment.

In 1985, British mountain climbers, Joe Simpson and Simon Yates made a trip to the Peruvian Andes in order to scale the tremendously steep and as yet unclimbed west face of Siula Grande. The pair attacked the mountain using a relatively new style of climbing at the time. They ascended the peak employing an "alpine style." This particular method of climbing essentially indicates that the climbers ascend the mountain in a single push. This is in direct opposition to the rather old school "expedition style" of climbing, where ropes are strung from the bottom of the mountain to the top. The advantage to this latter method is that if something goes wrong, climbers can easily descend the mountain. The disadvantage to this style of climbing is that it takes a very long time to ascend to the summit. An expedition climb might take months, whereas an alpine style climb might take days.

Unfortunately for Simpson and Yates, something did go wrong during their alpine style climb. While descending the mountain Simpson fell and seriously broke his leg. As the men didn't have any means of easily descending the mountain, Yates was forced to lower Simpson down a steep icy slope a few hundred feet at a time. They managed to descend a large portion of the mountain before a second incident occurred, an incident that has become an integral part of modern mountaineering lore...

Without giving too much away, it's enough to know that Simpson and Yates become seperated. We watch Simpson, broken at the bottom of a gaping crevasse, struggling to escape and we watch Yates back in basecamp, racked with guilt and dealing with the belief that his friend is dead. Much of the remaining film focuses on Simpson's battle to survive, while exploring the psycological and emotional trumoil surrounding the utter belief that he is going to die.

It is perhaps this last part of the film which strikes the average non-climbing audience member the most deeply. Existential angst runs through Simpson like blood as he lay dying in a crevasse. He swears, he weeps, and then hedecides that there is no God, that there is only the void. Tom Hanks rotting alone on a deserted island in Castaway never made such philosophical discoveries, nor have countless characters in countless films that were facing a lonely and horrible death. Indeed, it is this element which raises the film beyond a simple documentary about mountain climbers and makes it something more profound. This exploration of the void takes the film to a stage where it becomes a universal look at what it means to be alone and dying.

Director Kevin Macdonald expertly weaves this story together, intercutting interviews of present-day Simpson and Yates with images of the foreboding Peruvian mountain they climbed nearly twenty years ago. Two young actors, Brendan Mackey and Nicholas Aaron are convincingly used to play the parts of these now middle-aged men, making the drama part of the docu-drama all that more intense.

Macdonald has shown a great deal of growth as a filmmaker. His previous Oscar-winning documentary, One Day in September, delved into the terrorist attack on the 1972 Olympics wherein a number of athletes were kidnapped and executed. One Day in September was spliced together using a combination of old footage and interviews in much the same way as this current film, but it never achieves the tightness and fluidity of Touching the Void.

Though Macdonald has put together a fantastic film, it does have a couple of shortcomings. The movie starts with clips of both Yates and Simpson speaking about their endeavor. As a result, before the action really starts, the audience is aware that both of the climbers survived their encounter with nature. This particular element draws back some of the tension which could have been created were the film shot without present day clips of Simpson and Yates speaking.

A secondary issue in the film is its length. At over a hundred minutes the movie begins to drag toward the end. There is a point where the audience knows that Simpson will survive and so for the sake of dramatic tension, Macdonald should have cut about ten minutes off the final scenes of the movie.

When all is said and done, Touching the Void is a powerful and dramatic piece of cinema which will surly go down in history as perhaps one of the best films about mountain climbing ever made. The scripts and the action of obscenely bad climbing movies like Vertical Limit and Cliffhanger have nothing on this movie. The reason they don't is because they are nothing more than fantasy. Joe Simpson and Simon Yates are real people who survived a real life harrowing endeavor.

Indeed, they touched the void...

--Jason D. Martin

February and March Climbing Events

--February 27-March 28 -- DC Metro Area -- Hera Climb 4 Life

--March 6-8 -- Anchorage, AK -- Alaska Ice Climbing Festival

--March 11-12 -- San Francisco -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

--March 12 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

--March 20-22 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Red Rock Rendezvous

--March 20-21 -- Anchorage, AK -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

--March 27-28 -- Bishop, CA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

Diabolic Sent


I did Diabolic yesterday! Super psyched. It went down first try from the start after doing the upper moves once. Here is a still from some video footage I got. Hopefully I will edit a piece together from my trip and submit it to MVM.

After Diabolic, I tried Terre de Sienne a few times and felt pretty good but didn't stick the move. Later I tried Algerita a bit - it was too hot to really work it though I was able to figure out some of the moves. I'll definitely try to get back to it if time allows.

Tomorrow morning I'll go to Terre early to give a few tries and then I might go on tour back to Coeur de Leon. Hopefully things will fall into place for me on these projects.

This morning I went out and filmed Andre DiFelice climb Algerita. He worked it yesterday and sent it in a few goes this morning. Watchin him do it motivated me even more to do the problem.

In other news, Nalle and Jon Cardwell put up a new V13 in the East Spur Maze. It's on the same boulder as Glas Roof. Looks like a good problem. I think they called it the Machinist.

Intro To Aid Technique

Free climbing is the technique of ascending a route with equipment and climbing protection, but without directly using that equipment to assist one's ascent. Instead, the equipment is used solely for safety. In direct opposition to this, aid climbing is the direct use of climbing equipment to climb a wall.

A basic aid pitch requires one to place a piece of protection. Once the piece is secure, the climber will clip an etrier or aider to that piece of gear. An etrier (which some people refer to as an aider) is a nylon ladder. The climber will climb up the etrier until she is as high as possible. The climber will then place another piece of gear and clip another etrier to this. An aid pitch requires one to do this repeatedly as he or she works up the route.


A Climber Relaxes on a Portaledge
Photo from Backcountry.com


A big wall climb is a route that is so big, that it generally takes more than a day to complete. Many walls require one to haul bags full of food, water and equipment as well as to use a portable ledge (a portaledge). This type of climbing can be equated to vertical backpacking.

Most big wall climbs require a great deal of aid climbing. Part of the reason that one must sleep on the wall is because aid climbing is incredibly slow. There has to be a piece of gear of some sort every six feet. If a climber is not quick with her system, then the time will add up very quickly and a Grade IV will turn into a Grade VI.

Aid climbing requires a lot of unusual gear. Following is a quick glossary of simple aid terms. There is a lot more to this aspect of climbing and this should simply be thought of as a quick intro:
  1. Hook -- This is literally a hook that one might use as a piece of protection. A climber will put a small metal hook over a rock lip and then clip the etrier to it in order to move up.
  2. Jumar -- The second (the follower) on an aid pitch is required to climb the rope instead of the rock. The second will usually do this with mechanical ascenders called jumars. The act of climbing up the rope with these is called jugging.
  3. A1-A5 -- The aid grade system. An A1 placement is perfect and could hold a bus. An A5 placement is really bad and will only hold bodyweight.
  4. Daisy Chain -- This is a personal anchor system with a series of loops sewn into it. A climber can place a hook (called a fifi hook) on her harness an hook the loops of the daisy to shorten it.
  5. Hauling -- The act of dragging a bag up the wall. This is the most miserable part of an aid climb.
  6. Copperhead -- A wire with a maleable copper top. These can be pounded into a crack and will usually hold bodyweight on high end aid climbs.
  7. Nailing -- A pitch that requires the use of pitons.
The following videos provide an introduction to aid technique with a focus on the methods required to climb a big wall.





At AAI we will begin teaching aid and big wall technique in a classroom format for the first time this summer. Previously, we have only taught these courses on a private basis. This summer we will be offering aid and big wall technique in Part III of our Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series.

--Jason D. Martin

Hueco Update

Hello from Hueco. I'm sitting outside the headquarters using the free internet now. Today is my first rest day. I arrived on Thursday after a tiring drive and climbed some. First I tried Diabolic V12/13 and felt pretty good even though I was a bit disoriented from the drive. I even managed to get a new high point and came agonizingly close to sending the whole thing. I stuck the crux move and fell on the next move which is probably the last hard move. I think it'll go down tomorrow morning if I can get on North Mountain. Here's a video of my best attempt. I also tried Terre de Sienne and felt good on that too. I didn't do the first move but was hitting the hold without too much extra body movement. It will have to be a really precise deadpoint but I think I can do it. I climbed the rest of the problem first try again so I think it really will just come down to that first move.



Yesterday I went on a volunteer tour to the East Spur Maze. I ended up trying Coeur de Leon V13 a bit and came really close to doing it. I fell after the crux on this one too. The problem is in a hole and thus not too aesthetic but the moves are really interesting. I'm psyched to try to get on another tour out there and finish it off. I think it should go down quickly now that I know the beta which is very intricate and convoluted.

Lots of strong climbers are down here now and there were some solid sends yesterday - I'm sure I don't even know about all of them, but for starters, Nalle and Jon Cardwell both did Coeur de Leon and Nalle flashed Full Monty V12. I think this must be the first flash of the Full Monty - definitely a solid effort. Tim Clifford is down here for a bit more than a week and despite the fact that he's getting over the flu, he climbed Algerita V13 yesterday and is close on El Techo de Los Tres B V12/13 (not sure of the grade because it has apparently changed recently because some stones were pulled out of the crack behind one of the holds making it a bit bigger).

I'll be climbing on North tomorrow and will hopefully get a some sends of my own. I'm really psyched on Diabolic and will head to that first. Then Terre de Sienne will be next on the list. Hopefully I can do Diabolic quickly so that I will still be fresh for Terre. I'd like to try Algerita a bit - Tim told me his beta which is slightly different that what I've tried in the past. It'll probably be unrealistic to have skin left for trying Algerita after a session on Terre. We'll see. Stay tuned for more news from the Hueco front.

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Ahoy Weekend Warriors!

This weeks videos are dedicated to the epic amount of snow that has recently dumped in the Sierras.  I don't know if you've heard but they were blessed with a bountiful amount of the white stuff, sending throngs of snow-starved skiers and boarders into the mountains to get their powder fix.  So sit back, relax and be prepared to be transported to a winter wonderland!

The first video is for all you snowboarders out there.  Don't let the 5 minute length deter you from checking this one out.  Hang in there and watch these guys cruise some incredible lines...trust me, it is well worth it!



The second video we've got for you should make any tele-skiers mouth begin to water.   So many turns....so much snow....so beautiful!!!




The final video is for anyone who, like me, is stuck behind a desk all week.  I've come up with a new technique to help satiate that powder hunger that always seems to come near the end of the week.  First, set up a big fan by your computer.  Second, lean way in towards the screen.  Third, put on your ski goggles. Lastly, watch this video (full screen) and be prepared to find yourself cruisin' the pow with the Pointer Sisters blasting on your iPod.

Rock Rescue: The Munter-Mule

In the following clip, a climber demonstrates two things. First, he shows us how to tie a munter hitch on a carabiner clipped to a harness. And second, he shows us how to mule off a munter hitch that is clipped to a locker on a pre-equalized anchor.

The munter-mule is one of the most useful combination's that one can employ in any rock rescue scenario. It provides the basis for load transfers and for a number of other rescue techniques.

In the video, the climber refers to the mule knot as a slip knot...which it is, but the official name for what he is doing is the "mule."

It is important to watch how the climber releases the mule. He never takes his hand off the break strand. I believe that the most common mistake that people make in this particular setting is that they completely let go of the break strand as they jump their break hand up the strand and closer to the hitch. When you practice, be aware of this and be careful to avoid letting go of the break strand.



--Jason D. Martin

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- February 19, 2009

Northwest:

--The scenic Pacific Northwest Trail may soon join the ranks as one of the country's premier hiking trails as a National Scenic Trail.  The designation is included in a massive public lands bill that is currently pending before the U.S. House of representatives.  Such a designation will bring better maintenance, better funding, and more signage.  To read more, click here.

Pacific Northwest old growth timber will be protected under the
 new bill before the House.

--Democratic Representative Carolyn Maloney has again introduced a wide-reaching wilderness protection bill that would ban logging, oil exploration and other development on 23 million acres across five Northwestern states.  The Northern Rockies Ecosystem Protection Act would designate new wilderness acreage in Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Oregon and Washington.  To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--The water content of the snow in the Sierra remains low for this time of year, but the latest round of storms has helped bring it a little bit closer to normal.  The latest number for the snowpack at Mammoth Pass show that the water content has increased by another six inches.  The month of January ended with 16.2 percent of normal to date.  The latest numbers, reflecting snowfall as of February 10th, show 22 inches of water at Mammoth Pass.  Twenty-two inches of water checks in at 72 percent of normal to date, and 50 percent of the normal season total.  To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A man died after hiking too close to the edge of a cliff in Red River Gorge Kentucky after he slipped and feel 165 feet.  It appears the 63-year-old Ronald Trick of Powell, Ohio was hiking alone in the Daniel Boone National Forest when he fell.  To read more, click here.

The West Face of Mount Everest
Photo by Guy Cotter

--Three Nepalese brothers are going to attempt to break a world record by spending 24 hours on top of Mount Everest.  The siblings intend to use their stay on the summit to pray for peace in Nepal and in the world.  To read more, click here.

--Climbing magazine recently published a phenomenal article entitled "Eight Confessions of a Climbing Mom."  Susan writes about the emotional and physical roller coaster of being both a mom and a climber.  To read this excellent article, click here.

--The American Alpine Club awards more grant money to climbers than any other organization.  Indeed, the odds for getting a grant from the AAC is actually quite high.  In 2008, there were 87 applicants and 32 of them received a grant.  That's a whopping 37 percent.  Many of the grant applications are due on March 1st.  To read about grant opportunities, click here.

The American Pika

--The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service will consider whether to protect a rabbit-like, alpine creature known as the American pika because of habitat loss.  The decision comes in an agreement announced last week with the Center for Biological Diversity and Earthjustice.  To read more, click here.

--A crazy story is making the rounds about three backcountry skiers in Colorado who were buried in an avalanche, were stuck under the snow for multiple hours, and were finally able to escape with their lives, all thanks to the Avalung.  To read more, click here.

--The producers of "The Office" and "The Biggest Loser" are currently running an open casting for people who are 45 years old or older who are rock climbers for a new reality show.  To read more, click here.

--A forum poster on rockclimbing.com recently discovered a potentially dangerous manufacturing defect in the #5 BigBro and Trango has decided to recall them.  It appears that the inner tubes were not made to spec resulting in the angled end faces not being parallel.  Details may be found on the Trango homepage.  Please see the following photo: 
image

Conditions Report -- February 18, 2009

RED ROCK CANYON:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The hours to the scenic drive recently changed. The BLM has begun to open the loop at 7 AM in order to save money. Please call Mark Tenaka-Sanders, the Las Vegas Field Office manager at 702-515-5365 to complain.

--The storm systems that have passed over the Southwest have coated the Spring Mountains of Red Rock Canyon with snow.  Hearty climbers are ignoring the cold and still got after it over the long weekend!

JOSHUA TREE:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

Paul Larsen ponders the protection on Brown and Serve (5.11a)
Photo by Ian McEleney

--The climber's coffee program runs every Saturday morning and will begin to run both Saturday and Sunday mornings beginning in February. This pr ogram takes place in the Intersection Rock parking area and allows climbers and rangers to exchange ideas and information. Climbers generally meet at around eight in the morning.

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth and Highway 2.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--We got some nice sunny weather up in the North Cascades last weekend and skiers in the Northwest didn't let it go to waste.

--A party went up and circumnavigated Chair Peak.  You can see a trip report, complete with photos, here.

--Another party found beautiful conditions around Table Mountain and took some great photos while they were at it.  Click here to check it out.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.

--Ice climbers were busy over the Valentine's Day weekend!  They were spreading the love all over the state.  A party climbed some great looking ice at Source Lake around Alpental.  Check out their trip report here.  The icey action didn't stop there.  Another party headed over the mountains to Leavenworth and got some great shots of Hubba Hubba.  Follow this link to check them out.

--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.

SIERRA:

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

--The snow has ARRIVED!  During this past weekend the Sierras received heavy amounts of snow and there is no shortage of people out there enjoying it.

--Check out the conditions around Mt. Rose in the Tahoe backcountry.  Just seeing all that fresh powder is enough to make a grown man (or woman) drool.  You can see pictures here.

--Here is some more Tahoe powder eye candy for you.  These guys are riding generous amounts of the white stuff around the Brockway Summit in the Tahoe area.

--And lastly, here is a great photo essay from the ice in Lee Vining!

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

--The Alaska season will start up in April. We are now accepting applications for our 2009 Denali expeditions and our 2009 Alaska Range Mountaineering Programs.

Leaving for Hueco tomorrow

I'm hitting the road tomorrow afternoon and should be climbing on Thursday. I'm super psyched - and feeling healthy though maybe slightly out of shape from not climbing much the past two weeks. I'm optimistic about the trip though. I'll be bringing an HD camcorder down with me so hopefully I'll get lots of good footage and be able to edit something.

Andy Mann couldn't join me in the end, so I'll be heading down solo. The weather is looking good now but may warm up next week. Hopefully the conditions stay reasonable - you don't have the option for early morning sessions or lantern night sessions in hueco to get better temps. Anyway, I'll try to post regular updates on the trip whenever I can get internet access so stay tuned. Here are a few more hueco pics from the archive.


Unknown climber on Babyface


Sandy climbing Ghetto Simulator


Sandy doing some serious filming just like I'll be doing down there soon.

Scaling Summits - AAI Climber Art Huseonica Profiled

Long time AAI climber, Art Huseonica, was recently the subject of a Toastmaster's article written by Julie Bawden-Davis.

Failure to communicate is not an option when you are dangling on a rope, tied to a partner at 18,000 above sea level. Toastmaster Art Huseonica enjoys the many parallels between his worldwide climbing adventures and his Toastmasters experience. Recently back from a speed ascent of Washington’s Mt. Rainer with accomplished American climber Ed Viesturs, Huseonica says leadership, preparation and precise communication are essential for survival both in front of an audience and on top of a mountain.

Taking Toastmasters to New Heights

Scaling Summits


From the Toastmaster magazine, January 2009

By Julie Bawden Davis

Taking Toastmasters to New Heights

Art Huseonica’s idea of fun takes his breath away – literally. When he’s where he wants to be, this Toastmaster is climbing in thin air at 17,000 feet, and he couldn’t be happier.


“People say I’m crazy, but I like the mental and physical challenges of high-altitude mountain climbing,” says Huseonica. “Even though I’m breathing hard and it feels like I’ve got cellophane over my face, the experience is exhilarating.”


Huseonica, a member of the Kritikos club in Odenton, Maryland, has been involved in extreme sports for many years, including skydiving and hot-air ballooning, but he didn’t begin serious mountaineering until four years ago. Since then, he has reached 17,200 feet on Alaska’s Mount McKinley (also known as Denali – “The Great One”), turning back from its 20,320-foot summit because his guide was ill; climbed the Andes in South America twice, and scaled Mount Rainier four times.


When Huseonica joined Toastmasters in January 2008, he did so to improve his presentation skills, but he soon discovered significant parallels between the skills needed in his club and climbing.


“Good communication is critical with mountain climbing,” says Huseonica, who serves as vice president public relations for his club. “When faced with extreme physical situations, it’s important that you communicate precisely and concisely and are very articulate so as not to waste your breath.” He has seen other climbers suffer from conditions such as altitude sickness because of reduced air pressure and oxygen. This can affect the brain and lungs and even lead to death, so it’s important that climbers pay attention to one another’s body language.


“If another climber gets wobbly legs and starts walking like he or she is drunk, that’s an indication that something is wrong,” says Huseonica, who notes that climbers watch out for each other. “At times, in order to conserve oxygen, we’ll use a simple thumbs up or down to check on each other’s well-being.”


Huesonica notes that many aspects of the Toastmasters Promise also apply to mountain climbing, and he has done a speech on the subject.


“Seven out of 10 of the Promise items relate to mountain climbing,” he says. “For instance, Number Two is to be prepared. In mountain climbing, physical and mental preparation are key. Physically, you train and get all of the right gear, and mentally you psyche yourself into the climb.”


Number 10 also applies, he says. “Maintaining honest and highly ethical standards during the conduct of all activities can be seen through the ‘leave no trace’ standards that climbers strive to meet by bringing down all solid waste and only leaving their boot prints on the mountains they visit.”


Fellow club member Anita Hoffman enjoys Huseonica’s speeches about his climbing expeditions. “He’s a very good speaker who is comfortable with his audience, and he has thrilling subject matter that keeps us all on the edge of our seats,” she says.


Coley Gentzel has climbed with Huseonica on several occasions. He is the program coordinator and a guide for the American Alpine Institute, a Bellingham, Washington-based company that conducts mountain tours. “People like Art are in a category all of their own,” says Gentzel. “He’s very passionate about climbing and great at sharing his enthusiasm with other climbers. He was instrumental in spearheading the Denali climb, which consisted of climbers who were almost all over the age of 50. Known as the ‘Ice Agers,’ they took a slightly less aggressive approach up the mountain. Art facilitated the group’s correspondence in the months leading up to the 24-day trip. He and another climber even created logos and T-shirts.”


Huseonica’s wife, Karen, feels that her husband’s involvement with Toastmasters has positively affected his climbing. “His membership has reinforced his confidence and self-assurance, making him even more careful and prepared when he climbs,” she says.


Known as “Base-camp Karen” by everyone who climbs with Huseonica, she talks with her husband via satellite telephone during his adventures and then e-mails her reports to friends and family.


Huseonica’s climbing mentor is Ed Viesturs, America’s leading high-altitude mountaineer, and the two men have twice scaled Mount Rainier together.


Though he enjoys all of his climbs, Huseonica especially looks forward to his treks with Viesturs, whom he met during the famous mountaineer’s travels across the U.S. promoting his IMAX-format film, Everest. “Ed and I got to talking at some of his book signings, and I gave him some suggestions for his Web site,” says Huseonica. “Eventually he invited me on a climb. The best part of climbing with Ed is that I learn something new every time.”


On their most recent climb together, on Mount Rainier, they did a speed ascent in order to prevent altitude sickness. During that climb, Viesturs took the picture of Huseonica holding the Kritikos Toastmasters logo.


Huseonica suspects that the urge to climb mountains has something to do with his upbringing. He grew up in Homer City, Pennsylvania, an isolated town of just 200 people in central western Pennsylvania. “My father worked in the local coal mine, and we had outdoor plumbing,” he says. “The town was so small, there was just one store, one gas station and a small post office. From that experience I learned about self-reliance and depending on family.”


After leaving home, Huseonica served in the U.S. Navy for 20 years. Adventure comes naturally to him; he spent a lot of time at sea and in isolated shore stations, and was trained to fly aircraft and work on submarines. Since retiring, he has worked in higher education administration and is currently a Web consultant and part-time teacher for the University of Maryland University College and warehouse manager for a school supply company. He also regularly uses his Toastmasters training to speak at local organizations and recently published his club’s Web site.


As for future climbing, Huseonica has been offered a 2010 spot in a Denali climb, and he is waiting for word about another Mount Rainier expedition with Viesturs. “I’d also like to go back to the Grand Canyon with my friend Ray Bellem and do that climb again,” he says. “It’s a beautiful area, and we have a great time climbing together.”



Julie Bawden Davis is a freelance writer based in Southern California and longtime contributor to the Toastmaster magazine.