October and November Climbing Events

--October 1 -- Portland, OR -- Ozone Guidebook Party and Fundraiser

--October 1 -- Las Vegas, NV -- LVCLC Meeting

--October 3-9 -- Indian Creek, UT -- Internationalize Indian Creek

--October 10-12 -- Front Range, CO -- AAC's Inaugural Craggin' Classic

--October 10-12 -- Leavenworth, WA -- Cascadeclimbers.Com Rope-Up

--October 11 -- Boise, ID -- Adopt-a-Crag

--October 14 -- Seattle, WA -- Powderwhore Productions "The Pact"

--October 15 -- Las Vegas, NV -- LVCLC Meeting

--October 16 -- Seattle, WA -- Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 16 -- Bellingham, WA -- Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 16-18 -- Tehran, Iran -- UIAA General Assembly

--October 17 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 19-21 -- Bend, OR -- AMGA Annual Meeting

--November 19 -- Las Vegas, NV -- LVCLC Meeting

--November 22 -- Seattle, WA -- Seattle Bouldering Challenge

--November 28-30 -- Los Angeles, CA -- ATS Outdoor Adventure Festival

--October-November -- Various Other Locations -- Reel Rock Film Tour

The Seasonality of Mountaineering (Part 2 of 2)

We left off in the preceding article with March. We have accumulated snow all winter and now things are changing.

In April and May, the battle for domination starts to shift from the bad weather to the good and the snow pack continues to consolidate and firm up, eventually reaching isothermal (a consistent temp throughout) and becoming good for summer glacier climbing conditions.

Now don’t take this to mean that you can’t climb mountains at other times, in fact you can climb mountains in any month of the year here, and even have a good time and good conditions doing it. A few years back I wrote piece about winter climbing about capturing small windows of good conditions in the off season here in the Cascades. Trying to have safe and successful climbs outside of the typical season requires tenacity and even more attention to subtle details and current conditions. Traveling on a snowpack that has not yet consolidated almost always required flotation of some sort. AAI guide Dylan Taylor previously authored a piece on snow locomotion where he described the options for that.

During the mid-summer months, the snowpack receeds on a daily basis. The days are long and the sun is usually shining more often than not. A mountaineers concerns start to shift from surface conditions to coverage issues. Crevasses start to be revealed, things like moats, bergschrunds, and talus slopes start to become factors that require some consideration. This trend continues through fall until the cycle starts over again. Lately, the winter snow hasn’t been able to keep up with the summer warmth in most parts of the world and the glaciers are shrinking.

So what do these seasons mean for mountaineers? There is always something to climb and something to learn at any point in the cycle. It might not be your preferred activity, ascent or style, but there is always something to be learned. In my mind, that is kind of what it means to be a mountaineer. Not someone with a helmet, ice axe, and 40-feet of webbing, but rather a person who is knowledgeable about the mountains, intimately familiar with their features and conditions, and skilled in the techniques that it takes to travel in them safely, regardless of the season or conditions.

Learning these thing is a lifelong process and even those that have spent countless days in ranges across the globe always have something to learn, a new way of seeing things, and they have to adapt to both subtle and substantial changes from season to season and place to place. It think this is one of the many facets that makes mountaineering such an engaging pursuit and leads many people into a mountaineering lifestyle rather than treating it like a hobby of sorts. Many mountaineers choose to live in a place where they can be close to the mountains and be a part of these seasonal transitions.

Here in the Cascades, mountaineer’s are hanging up their crampons for the season and eagerly anticipating the first substantial accumulations of the winter season. Any day now we should get a big dump and the hardcores will get out their rock skis and battle out the seasons first turns. As the winter wanders on, savvy climbers will keep an eye on conditions and hope for a window to get up a route in winter conditions under fair skies. Into the spring, the short winter days will lengthen and our vitamin B starved bodies will start to long for the long walks on the glaciers and winding trails through lush undergrowth, and the heavy, moisture laden air of the Cascade summer, and the feeling of dry granite under our finger-tips and toes.

As mentioned above, all climbing areas have their own cycles. For example, now is the prime time for rock climbing in the desert southwest whereas a month ago you would have probably died of heat stroke in the direct sun. The summer mountaineering season in South America is just a few weeks from kicking off. The monsoon season in the Himalaya is just coming to and end and the technical climbing season is about to begin.

So, stay tuned in and turned on to make your free-time line up with the seasonality of mountaineering and go climbing!

--Coley Gentzel

The Jackson Visitor Center finally closes its doors

Without too much fanfare, the Jackson Visitor Center closed its doors to the public today, September 28th, 2008. The NPS is replacing the facility with a new Jackson Visitor Center, scheduled to open (with much fanfare) on October 10th.

For curiosity and fun, I hung out near the main doorway as the final visitors exited and walked away. Over the past two weeks, a public reader board noted today’s significance by counting down the days. Next to it was a hand drawn picture of the space saucer shaped visitor center blasting off into orbit above Mount Rainier. As the front doors were finally locked, you could see rangers and concession employees giggling and smiling inside.
Before the doors closed, I spoke with about one dozen visitors. Interestingly, most didn’t know before arriving in the park that today was the Jackson Visitor Center’s “last day.” Those who did primarily lamented the loss of the 360 degree view from the observation deck, and why wouldn’t they? Today was perfect and the sun was showing off as it slowly slipped behind the mountains and down the Nisqually Valley. The day had been clear and surprisingly warm for late September.


A small crowd cheered as the family (above and left) was informally proclaimed “the last visitors to the JVC.” By the way, there is nothing official about this distinction. It’s just that the doors were promptly locked behind them as they left. Turns out, they were from Puyallup and cruised up in a restored 1969 Cougar to say goodbye. Here is TNT reporter Jeff Mayor talking with them. Note the smiles.

Anyway, now we're just wondering: what sort of welcoming will the new JVC get? More after October 10th.

The Seasonality of Mountaineering (Part 1 of 2)

The following blog entry got a little long winded, so we decided to break it up into multiple parts, two to be exact. Stay tuned for the rest of the article tomorrow!

We all know that in this great big world of ours, there are seasons, and that things like weather and local conditions change from day to day, week to week, and of course month to month. But how do these changes in the season affect the mountains and our travels in them. For most people, the mountains are the glittering points on the horizon. Sometimes they are snowy, sometimes they are bare, sometimes you can see them, but most of the time you can't. So what is going on up there anyhow? Being both a guide and a Program Coordinator in AAI’s offices, I often field questions about courses and programs that are “out of season” so to speak. Quite often people wonder why we don’t offer particular courses and climbs year round. A simple answer would be, the seasonality of mountaineering.


Mount Shuksan in summer (left) and winter conditions (right).

Most ranges of mountains have a defined or “typical” mountaineering season. That is to say a season where the climbing conditions are optimal for the types of climbing contained therein. Each range and place is unique in its characteristics, patterns, and factors, but there are many similarities as well. I will use the Cascade Range here in Washington as a model.

My first few years as a new climber in the Cascades were frustrating to say the least. I didn’t have much of a feel for conditions in the mountains, where to find info on such things, or how to interpret lowland factors to extrapolate highland realities. Many of my trips were met with bad weather, too much snow, not enough snow, or the route being “out of condition” for any number of reasons. Now, after over a decade of running around in the Cascades, I can almost predict the exact conditions at any given time without having been in the range for weeks or even months. This isn’t accomplished by any special skill in particular, but more from being familiar with the seasonal changes that happen every year, by knowing how to interpret lowland factors, and by knowing where to look for up to date information. Being familiar with each of these relatively straight forward process can help your success rate and enjoyment factor go way up by minimizing some of what is typically thought of as guess work in mountaineering.

The glacier mountaineering season in the Cascades is generally thought of as the summer months. Conditions for glacier climbing are at their best when the snowpack has gone isothermal and the surface of the glacier freezes at higher elevations during the night. During this freeze, climbers wear boots and crampons and walk on top of the snow instead of sinking into it deeply like they do during the winter and early spring months. Conditions in the mountains are always changing. Sometimes they are literally different from one minute to the next. Being able to predict, plan for, and properly assess these conditions can make a huge difference in your level of success, enjoyment, and even safety.

For the sake of order, lets look at the seasons starting from the end of the summer, before the snow starts to fall. Since many of these concepts revolve around snow, it makes the most sense to start from the beginning when there is none. Here in the Cascades, the middle or even the end of September is the end of the typical mountaineering season. Depending on the year, we might get some decent weather into October and be able to sneak in another climb or two, but the days are short and the snow can fly at any time.

As I write this I can see our last Cascade mountaineering group out my rain-streaked window returning from Mount Baker where they got pummeled by rain and snow. By the end of our summer, nearly all of the seasonal snow has melted off the surface of the glaciers and from the lower and even higher elevation slopes. When the snow starts again, it will gradually (or rapidly depending on the storm!) accumulate throughout the winter, usually into March when the days become long enough and bright enough that the snow pack depth starts to even out and even recede despite the fact that new snow is still falling regularly.

To Read Part II, Click Here.

--Coley Gentzel

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!

Alright warriors, it's the weekend and it's time to get stoked! This week we're getting stoked over Red Rocks; we're getting stoked over bacountry pow. And we're getting stoked over twinkies...

First up, we have a nice little video to get you psyched about climbing in the desert. A crew of college students made a spring break road-trip to Red Rock Canyon and came up with the following video. It's quite a dramatic little piece of work.

Those who are sensitive to foul language should avoid this video. Though the expletives are not gratuitous, one can hear a word here or there in the background.



This week the snow began to fly at the higher elevations in the Pacific Northwest. It's a bit early and the likelihood of that snow staying around is a bit unlikely. However, the spray-masters on websites like turns-all-year.com and teletips.com can't shut-up about it. You'd think it had snowed four feet, not an inch. That said, we're all psyched for the Northwest backcounty season to start. This video provides a little taste of what's to come.



And lastly...you probably thought it was a little weird when we wrote that you would get stoked over twinkies, so let us explain. Many of you know that AAI Guide Jason Martin is also a playwright and screenwriter. He was recently invited by 911 Media Arts in Seattle to participate with them in a 48 Hour Film competition as a screenwriter. In other words, their team (led by his brother and producer of the project, Eli Martin) was provided a series of things that they must use in a film. Once they received their list of items they were required to write, shoot and edit the film all in 48 hours.
  1. The theme they were provided was, "a world dangerously disconnected from its food source."
  2. They were required to use a burlap sack as a prop.
  3. Their genre was roadtrip movie.
  4. They had to get the line, "it doesn't have to be that way" into the script.
  5. At least one character had to be named Rick Dickonson and he had to be a grocery store manager.
  6. Their film could be no more than three minutes long.
They felt that the easiest way to accomplish all this was to produce a movie trailer instead of an actual movie. So like most mediocre artists they ripped off people who did it better. Watch carefully for allusions to Saw, Alien and The Birds.

There are images in this video that some might find disturbing.


It Doesn’t Have To Be That Way! from Eli Martin on Vimeo.

Used Gear Sale!

It’s that time of year again!

The Equipment Shop at the American Alpine Institute’s Annual used gear sale is coming up this Thursday and Friday, October 2nd and 3rd.

Summit Day on Mount Baker -- Photo by Andy Bourne

We’ll have used Hilleberg and Mountain Hardwear tents, helmets, gaiters, crampons, ice-axes, boots and much more at up to 70% off!

In addition to the great deals on the usual used gear we’ll also have brand new Petzl Meteor Helmets and Adjama Harnesses, I/O Bio Wool Underwear and garments, Injinji Socks, all Petzl Ropes and Grigris, MSR Reactor and XGK stoves, and OR Bivy Sacks all at 30% Off.

Doors open at 10 am! Get here early! Please keep in mind that the sale is limited to in-store purchases only and all sales are final.

Reality TV and Mountain Guiding

Last Thursday it came in an email.

I received a call this morning from an attorney friend in Seattle who is setting up interviews for guides who are interested in being part of a TV reality show on guides and guiding. The company developing this concept has previously done a variety of TV reality shows including Survivor, The Bachelor, and now new work themed programs like Ice Road Truckers.

A separate production company working with them is financing this and is currently funding:

--auditions for a series focused on guides
--the creation of a pilot

Woah! What's this? A TV show about mountain guides. Can you imagine how much fun people would make of the guides involved? Can you imagine how much goading and ribbing they would take from their peers?

Could this man be a reality TV star? (Dylan Taylor)

It's hard enough to tell people that you're a mountain guide with a straight face. It would be utterly impossible to tell people that you were both a mountain guide and a reality TV star without sounding like a complete doofus.

So after making fun of this all day, Dylan Taylor and I talked each other into going. AAI Guides Richard Riquelme and Dawn Glanc also participated.

The audition went well for everyone. Indeed, it sounds like if this thing gets off the ground we could all be on television. That would be both cool and incredibly embarrassing. Reality stars look like models. Mountain guides look like pieces of leather.

Anyway since we're all going to be stars of reality TV, I've started to work out my plan. I've already made alliances with everyone. Dylan and I are totally going to vote Richard off the mountain and Richard and I are totally going to vote Dylan off the mountain. Dawn's still neutral. I'm going to have to flip her one way or the other to win. It's going to be awesome!

Or maybe it will just be ludicrous. I don't think there will be any voting, but who knows...? It is reality television.

Here's a little taste of reality vs. reality. In other words, Reality TV, vs the reality of being a mountain guide. I've placed a few pictures of reality TV stars above pictures of our guides. You can decide which reality is more interesting...

The Bachelor
The Real Bachelor (Forest McBrain)

Hell's Kitchen

And the kitchen after hell froze over. (Coley Gentzel)

Dancing with the Stars

And Not Dancing with the Stars. (Alistair Turner)

The Girls Next Door

And Eric next door. (Eric Johnson)

America's Next Top Model

And America's Current Top Model. (Mike Powers)

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- August 25, 2008

Northwest:

Mount Rainier

--Throughout the summer the speed record on Mount Rainier has been repeatedly challenged and broken. And though big wall speed ascents in Yosemite have been in vogue for years, Chad Kellogg was one of the first climbers to bring notoriety to speed ascents on big mountains in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska. To read about Kellogg and his tactics for round trip summit and back speed runs up and down Mount Rainier, click here.

--U.S. Forest Service law enforcement ranger Kristine Fairbanks, 51, was shot and killed on Saturday on a remote road near Sequim in the foothills of the Olympic Mountains. Fairbanks, a K9 officer, was killed by a man she pulled over in a traffic stop. Shawn Roe, 36, the man believed to have shot the officer, was killed in a shoot-out with police later in the day. Roe was also suspected in the death of the individual that owned the truck which he was driving. To read more, click here and here.

--Two rescue operations took place over the weekend in Snohomish County. A man fell down a glacier on Three Fingers while another fell from his horse. Nearly 75 rescuers in two operations were coordinated to rescue the men. To read more, click here and here.

--Three Grays Harbor County men have entered guilty pleas in U.S. District Court in Tacoma for conspiring to steal and damage 31 old-growth cedar trees in the Olympic National Forest. In essence they cut the trees down and then tried to sell them to timber mills. To read more, click here.

Southwest:

Wheeler Peak, NV. NE Face. FA "Siens et de la Biere" IV 5.9 R/X Layton/Waters

-- Former AAI shop employee Mike Layton and Brian Waters put up a new line on Wheeler Peak in Northern Nevada last week. The 1800 foot tall Northeast face of Wheeler is 1800 feet tall and only sports one other route. The rock is is utterly terrible and the party found the climb to be at times absolutely terrifying. To read more, click here.

Mike Layton leads a pitch high on Wheeler Peak.

--Supertopo.com is currently has a thread running that features a photo essay on the Sierras. The essay was put together by an individual who has been taking scenic shots of the Sierra since 1983. To see the photos, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--An English climber sustained minor injuries after taking a 52 foot fall off a popular route at the Bosigran Wall in Cornwall, England. The climber's cam -- a Rock Empire number 1 – failed due to metal fatigue caused by flexing. The technical report indicated that the design of the device made it difficult for users to check for signs of potential problems. It is incredibly important to constantly check your gear for signs of wear. To read more, click here.

--New species of plant and animal life are often found in the remote places of the world, but what about in places that are not so remote? What about in places like Yosemite National Park? It turns out that a new species of lichen has been discovered on some of the most well-known formations in the valley. It is not clear if such a species lives anywhere else in the world. To read more, click here.

--Ryan Hokanson and Samuel Johnson completed two massive climbs in the Arrigetch Peaks in Alaska’s Gates of the Arctic National Park. After a two-day approach with 95 pound packs, the team warmed up on the North Buttress of West Maiden (V 5.9). After completing the 22 pitch line, they set their sights on a new line. After a 27 hour push they established The Pillar Arete (V 5.10b) on the eastern side of Caliban Peak. To read more, click here.

--Carles Figueras, Pep Permane and Josep Sola made the first ascent of an unnamed peak (18,989') above the Kunti Glacier in northern Pakistan. They made their ascent up the steep rock face from August 1-3 and climbed alpine style. To read more, click here.

--A series of new routes went up in the Canadian Rockies this summer. Many of those who climb in this region tend to sandbag climbs. The Rockies are famous for 5.9 A2 routes which would be 5.11 A3+ R/X anywhere else. That said, the new routes that were established this summer run the gamut of grades. To read more, click here.

Colorado Day Three: Boulder Bandits

"Jello"'s comments in italicsLet's start by saying that Boulder is not one of "Jello"'s favorite places. While I'll let him discuss his political appreciation of the town, I will go ahead and beat him to the punch regarding the camping situation and then get into what turned out to be an interesting day of climbing.Boulder CanyonWith Greg's crack lesson being over, we decided to head to Boulder

Colorado Day Two: Turkey Rocks (the education of Greg continues)

Jello's comments in italics"Jello" has never been shy about ragging me for not being a very strong crack climber. Whenever we've done anything resembling a crack on the east coast, he has always felt the need to yell at me for searching for holds out on the face. "Stay in the crack you wimp!" (or other variations thereof) was a common taunt that neither of us could avoid: he wanted to make sure

Jackson Visitor Center - Final Weekend to Visit!

Yup, the Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center (JVC), whose design has been loved, hated, and debated since its opening in 1966, will welcome its last visitor on Sunday, September 28. It is closing to prepare for the demolition and move to the new JVC, which will open at 10:00 a.m. on October 10th. Between September 29th and October 9th, the Paradise Ranger Station (in the upper lot) will serve as the main NPS contact point at Paradise.

Here's some background on the now infamous "space saucer" of Paradise. The NPS commissioned its construction as part of a 10-year effort called MISSION 66. MISSION 66 set out to improve infrastructure and visitor services for NPS in time for its 50th anniversary in, guess what, 1966. The Paradise visitor center was originally known as the "Paradise Day Use Facility" until 1987, when it was re-named in honor of Washington Senator Henry "Scoop" Jackson. "Scoop" had originally secured congressional funding for the project and personally selected the architects.

The future of the oldJVC is significantly less promising. With the initiative to build a new visitor center came the $880,000 contract to demolish the JVC and rehabilitate the lower parking lot. Sometime late next year, you should be able to park your vehicle near the current information desk or bookstore. If the weather holds, this fall the contractor intends to start salvage operations of reusable materials and also carry out removal of fuel tank and hazardous materials. Final demolition will begin in the late spring of 2009 and will be completed by the end of the summer.

NOTE: If you're visiting the park this weekend, September 27 and 28, there are no entrance fees. The NPS is waiving fees on Saturday in celebration of National Public Lands Day and on Sunday in honor of newly naturalized United States citizens. The JVC at Paradise will be open from 10:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. through Sunday the 28th. Come on by, because it's your last chance to lounge in those creamy orange couches and chairs.

Conditions Report -- September 24, 2008

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--The last few days saw a great deal of precipitation in the mountains. Most of that came down as snow. However, even in the terrible weather some guided groups and an AMGA Alpine exam got after it. Exam participants climbed both Mount Shuksan and Mount Baker in terrible conditions and AAI climbers fled east to climb Prime Rib (IV 5.8) and the Inspiration Methow (III 5.9+) near Mazama.

SIERRA:

--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Here's a nice photo heavy trip report from a climb of North Peak last week.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali

--The Alaska season is over until April of 2009.

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- The climbing season in Red Rock Canyon has officially started! The local climbing ranger has indicated that a number of people are requesting late exit permits. People are definitely getting after it on the shady aspects of the canyon!

CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:

Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.

Colorado Day One: Garden of the Gods (an introduction to soft sandstone)

"Jello"'s comments in italicsEveryone needs a break every now and again. While I'm not disadvantaged in any realistic manner, I certainly have felt under the gun the past year or so. Life changes do make things interesting and challenging, especially against the pressures of expectations. And I've worked hard to maintain some semblance of progress in my life. Despite some important setbacks, I've

Down vs Synthetic

On big expeditions a good sleeping bag is perhaps the most important piece of equipment that you carry. A sleeping bag does a great deal more than to simply keep you warm at night. It becomes a means to keep water bottles from freezing and provides a way to dry out damp clothing and boots. And indeed, in an emergency it might be the last shield between you and hypothermia or even death.

So what kind of sleeping bag should you invest in? Down or synthetic? Synthetic or down?

Advantages of a Down Sleeping Bag:
  1. Many would argue that nature does it best. Down (either goose or duck) tends to be significantly warmer than a synthetic alternative. Ounce per ounce, down tends to be approximately three times warmer than synthetic.
  2. If you take care of it, down retains its shape and loft. With proper care a down bag can last a lifetime.
  3. Down tends to wick body moisture away which can make for a far more comfortable night's sleep.
  4. Down is far more compressible and lightweight.
  5. The nature of down is that it keeps you warm in the cold and cool in the warmth.
AAI Guide Justin Wood enjoying a book in a down bag on Denali.

Disadvantages of a Down Sleeping Bag:
  1. The largest disadvantage to a down bag is how poorly it deals with water. A wet down bag is close to useless. Those who elect to use down in a wetter climate need to have all of their systems dialed. In other words they need to be very good at protecting their bag from the elements.
  2. Once wet, down bags don't dry easily.
  3. Down can be difficult to clean. If it is improperly cleaned it may break down and lose its loft. Be sure to read and follow all washing directions on your down bag.
  4. Some people have allergic reactions to down.
  5. Down is expensive.
Advantages to a Synthetic Sleeping Bag:
  1. Synthetics are more weather resistant and dry more quickly.
  2. Synthetics are easier to care for.
  3. Synthetics are hypoallergenic.
  4. There is a lot of variety out there and it tends to be less expensive than the alternative.
Disadvantages to a Synthetic Sleeping Bag:
  1. Synthetics tend to be heavier and bulkier than down.
  2. Many synthetics don't pack down as tightly as down.
  3. Synthetics tend to breakdown and perform poorly over time.
  4. Some of the lower end products may not fit well.
So which is better? Most guides use down bags, but they know that they have to be hyper-aware when it comes to getting them wet. If you don't think that you can do this, then a synthetic bag is the way to go.

The purchase of a sleeping bag is a big financial decision, but that shouldn't be the deciding factor. Instead, it should be based on where you think you're going to use it and what type of conditions you think you're going to encounter the most.

--Jason D. Martin

September and October Climbing Events

--September 21-27 -- Whistler, BC -- ISSW Avalanche Workshop

--September 24-28 -- Yosemite Valley, CA -- Yosemite Facelift

--September 27 -- Portland, OR -- Portland Ice Festival

--September 29 -- Eugene, OR -- Justen Sjong Slideshow

--October 1 -- Portland, OR -- Ozone Guidebook Party and Fundraiser

--October 3-9 -- Indian Creek, UT -- Internationalize Indian Creek

--October 10-12 -- Front Range, CO -- AAC's Inaugural Craggin' Classic

--October 10-12 -- Leavenworth, WA -- Cascadeclimbers.Com Rope-Up

--October 16 -- Seattle, WA -- Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 17 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 19-21 -- Bend, OR -- AMGA Annual Meeting

--September-November -- Various Other Locations -- Reel Rock Film Tour

The need for more speed!

For those anxious readers interested in yet another story of a climber who has set yet another new 'unofficial' round trip summit speed record, please read on. For the rest of you who are tired of hearing of such drivel, we suggest you continue reading anyway and perhaps you still may find the story interesting. Besides, how can you ignore such an amazing feat? A person climbs to the summit of Mount Rainier in under 3 1/2 hours, and then descends to Paradise in just over an hour, resetting the speed record to 4 hours, 40 minutes and 59 seconds.

For comparison, it takes most folks 5 hours just to make it UP to Camp Muir, never mind to the summit and back to Paradise again in less time! Can you imagine the feeling of being lapped on a day hike by someone who has summitted? Then again, the person running past you on the Muir Snowfield is Guillermo (Willie) Benegas, an international guide, sponsored member of the North Face team, and highly accredited guide with the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). Benegas' climbing portfolio is impressive. Among other credentials, he has been a guide with Mountain Madness for 10 years and is the previous speed record holder on Aconcagua... Oh yeah, he's climbed Everest seven times and leads expeditions up numerous peaks over 26,000 ft.

For more information and an account of the ascent by Benegas, check out his interview in The News Tribune.

Steve House Rupal Face Equipment

Last week we posted a video where former AAI Guide Steve House described the clothing that he wore on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat (26,658') when he and Vince Anderson made an alpine style ascent of the route. To see last week's post, click here.

This week we have posted a slightly longer video wherein Steve describes the equipment that they used on the route. The Rupal Face is arguably one of the most dangerous technical and demanding routes in the world. Steve and Vince were required to go as light as possible while being prepared for extreme climbing. And though the equipment systems presented here may not work for everyone, it is well worth seeing what world class alpinists prefer.

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!

Ah, the seasons are changing my fellow weekend warriors. In honor of this planetary shift I have included some videos of places to go and things to do during this fall season. Enjoy!

Our Red Rock season has begun! This world-class climbing locale is a short drive from Las Vegas and features a seemingly endless selection of routes. One of the classics is Frogland, a 6-pitch 5.8. The video even features some helmet cam shots which give you a good idea of what the rock texture is like.




The second video we have for you is a clip from the movie "First Descent". Watch Terje Haakonsen boldly descend where no man has descended before. Warning: This video may cause a sudden drop of the jaw, please ensure that all obstructions are clear.




The final video we have for you features some breathtaking shots of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. Oh how I love time-lapse photography...probably the greatest invention since Hostess cupcakes.


Sierra Segment Trailer from Neil Gill on Vimeo.

National Park(ing) Day!

A parking space is occupied by a small impromptu park.

Happy National Park(ing) Day!

What's National Park(ing) Day you ask?

National Park(ing) Day is an opportunity to celebrate parks in cities and to promote the need for more parks and for more open spaces by creating temporary public parks in public parking spaces. National Park(ing) Day is sponsored by The Trust for Public Land, a national conservation nonprofit, and based on an idea conceived by REBAR, a San Francisco art collective.

In 2007, National Park(ing) Day spawned more than 200 new parks in more than fifty cities nationwide. So if you see a weird little patch of grass and a park bench in your favorite parking spot, take a load off and enjoy that tiny bit of nature in the urban jungle. To read more, click here.

Route Profile: The South Arete of South Early Winter Spire

South Early Winter Spire with the South Arete
following the sun/shade line left of center.


Location: North Cascades of Washington, Washington Pass

Season: Nearly year round. As with most alpine route routes in the Cascades, snow levels are the biggest variables outside of weather. The opening and closing of Highway 20 (usually opens in April and closes in November) play a big part in the time required for climbing at the Pass.

Time required: 1 day, not counting drive time.

Route Description: From the Blue Lake trailhead, the typical summer approach is about 2.5 miles and you gain about 2000 feet of elevation on the approach. The South Arete is a fairly broad and broken ridge that follows a crest between the SW couloir and the steep and dramatic East Face of South Early Winter Spire. The route is primarily a 4th and low-5th class scramble with a few short steps of harder moves. It is rated 5.3 and the exposure along the route is just about perfect for first time alpine rock climbers.

Notes:
AAI leads climbs on the South Arete as part of their Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series and also as part of their Classic Guided Ascents in the Pacific Northwest private programs. This route make a fantastic first alpine rock climb for beginning level climbers, and is also well-suited for a climber's first "lead" in the mountains. The Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, just a short distance away, is a great follow-up to the South Arete for a weekend of Alpine Rock climbing at Washington Pass.

Climbers start up the first,
crux pitch of the South Arete.

The South Arete starts with a steep step right off the bat that includes a few slabby moves and a bit of crack climbing before the angle eases. This is followed by mellow scrambling in a shallow gully for a few hundred feet.

AAI Guide Ben Traxler traverse a narrow
section of the Arete about halfway up the route.


At the top of the gully there is a chockstone which is passed on the left that includes a few 5.3 moves. Above the chockstone the scrambling and traversing continues until the ridge-crest narrows leading to a fun traverse on a sharp spine of smooth granite.

Climbers traversing the final lenth of ridge just below the summit.

After the completing the spine the views become increasing better. The last few hundred feet of blocky traversing leads directly to an airy ridge crest.

AAI Director of Staff Development, Mike Powers, on the summit of South
Early Winter Spire after his 85th ascent of the South Arete.

From the summit it's possible to see nearly all of the North Cascades from Mount Baker to the north down to Glacier Peak to the south. The summit offers a rare glimpse of the Northeast Face of Mount Goode, a rarely seen Cascade giant. And across the valley the rocky ridges and pinacles of Silverstar Mountain and the Wine Spires jut into the sky.

If you're looking for a scenic cruise on perfect granite, you simply can't miss with a trip to Washington Pass!

--Coley Gentzel

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- September 18, 2008

Northwest:

White Pass proposed expansion into Hogback Basin.

--A federal judge approved a request by the management of the White Pass Ski Resort to expand lift service into Hogback Basin, an area popular for its seclusion with backcountry skiers and an area popular for it's ecological diversity with environmentalists. Our favorite quote of the article was from White Pass President Kevin McCarthy, "the backcountry skiers just want to be left alone in this area and we find that incredibly selfish." And so by his logic, expanding a massive resort into a pristine area in order to make more money isn't selfish. To read more, click here. To see what the skiing and climbing community is saying about this click here and here.

Forest Troll -- Photo by Gil Aegerter

Ghost Face -- Photo by Josh Smestad

--The popular hiking website, nwhikers.net has an interesting thread this week. Members of the site are posting pictures of trees that look like faces. To see these pictures, click here.

The final pitch at the top of Lemolo Peak (Southeast Summit Mox) V 5.10- R
Photo by Eric Wehrly

--Last weekend Rolf Larson and Eric Wehrly made their way to a remote region of the Cascades and climbed a new route on a the Southeast summit of Mox Peak. This is an epic place that is difficult to get to where the rock is loose and the climbing is not always secure. Wehrly wrote a very understated trip report on the climb that makes for a great read. Former AAI shop employee Mike Layton made an ascent of the East Face of Mox Peak three years ago. At the time it was the largest unclimbed wall in the Cascades. Indeed, Fred Beckey said of the area, that "it was a good place for a funeral." To read about Mike's ascent, click here.

--A 72-year-old man from Chilliwack, British Columbia, was rescued on Mount Baker Monday, Sept. 15, after falling about 25 feet into a crevasse. To read more, click here and here.

--Bellingham climber Blake Herrington has been getting out quite a bit. In recent weeks he has been responsible for two first ascents in the Cascades. First he climbed a new line on Colchuck Balanced Rock and then he completed a new line on the Silver Horn. The Tempest Wall clocks in at Grade IV 5.10 A2. And Playin' Not Sprayin' clocks in at Grade III 5.10. To read about the Tempest Wall, click here. To read about Playin' Not Sprayin', click here.

--A columnist at the Seattle Post-Intelligencer wrote that the North Cascades National Park Complex needs an advocate. The writer states that those who helped the park become a reality are slowly dying off and there doesn't appear to be a new generation to pick up the cause. To read more, click here.

Southwest:

--In early Septmeber, petty criminals have targeted small cabins in the Sierra foothills, destroying property and the mountain community’s sense of security. Vehicle and cabin windows were destroyed at points in the Sierra from Bishop to Big Pine and a high-altitude laboratory in the White Mountains was damaged, all for no apparent reason. The crime appears to have stopped as swiftly as it started. To read more, click here.

A bighorn sheep in Red Rock Canyon

--After a number of years of research and review, the federal government has provided Sierra Nevada bighorn sheep additional habitat to fuel their recovery. On Aug. 5, a ruling from the United States Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) finalized designation of 417,577 acres of land throughout the Sierra Nevada range as critical habitat for the endangered animal. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Nicola Tondini, a respected Dolomite climber, has completed a free traditional ascent of La Perla Preziosa (The Precious Pearl 5.12a) on the west face of the Sass dia Crusc (9,268') in the Italian Dolomites. To read more, click here.

--Calling all creative minds! The Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics is looking for a new slogan. They have initiated a contest with a few cool outdoor-type prizes for the winner. To read more, click here.

--National Public Radio ran a story on Tuesday morning about river guides in the Grand Canyon. Their lives are surprisingly similar to that of mountain guides. To listen to the story, click here.

--Slovenians Andrej and Tanja Grmovsek put up a series of new routes in the Hermelndal at the head of the Tasermiut Fjord in South Greenland. This seldom visited area presented the team with massive walls. Big wall routes in the area had already required over 30 pitches of climbing by other teams.

Holly Martin -- AAI Guide Jason Martin's daughter -- eats snow on Mount Charleston, NV.
It seems like the children of both our guides and our climbers don't really need a special occasion to take their kids outside this week or next. They just do it!

--September 24-September 30th is Take a Child Outside week. This program was designed to help break down obstacles that keep children from discovering the natural world. By arming parents, teachers and other caregivers with resources on outdoor activities, the goal is to help children across the country develop a better understanding and appreciation of the environment in which they live, and a burgeoning enthusiasm for its exploration. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report -- September 17, 2008

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--On September 20th and 21st there will be several groups of Mountaineers in the Vantage/Frenchman Coulee Area. They are likely to use the Feathers, Sunshine Wall, Riverview,and the Green Wall. To avoid crowding, it would be good to avoid those areas.

--These guys cycled up to Mount Hood and then climbed it this week. This guy soloed the south side of Mount Baker. And these guys messed around with the difficult and dangerous Johannesburg Mountain.

Bob Wiebe rips it up on the Ptarmigan Ridge. Photo by Gabe Wiebe.

--Every week of the summer that there's less snow, the skiers still surprise us by continuing to chase skiable snow. These guys found lots of snow on the Ptarmigan Ridge. These guys went for it on the Muir Snowfield. And this team got up to the Coleman Pinnacle.

Gabe Wiebe on the Ptarmigan Ridge. Photo by Bob Wiebe.

SIERRA:

--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

Mount Whitney in late season conditions.

--These guys climbed a route on Mount Conness in a mildly outdated trip report from the Sierra.
These guys climbed Temple Crag and Mount Sill. And here is a photo-heavy trip report from a multi-peak road trip to the Sierra.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali

--The Alaska season is over until April of 2009.

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- The climbing season in Red Rock Canyon has officially started! Our first trip of the season went out yesterday and encountered temperatures in the upper nineties in the sun, but mid-seventies in the shade. The local climbing ranger has indicated that a number of people are requesting late exit permits. People are definitely getting after it on the shady aspects of the canyon!

CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:

Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.

Steve House Rupal Face Clothing System

Former AAI Guide Steve House goes through the clothing he wore on his and Vince Anderson's alpine-style first ascent of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat (26,658') in September, 2005. They were awarded the 2005 Piolet d'Or Award, recognizing the significance of this innovative route climbed in a clean and committed style.

The Rupal Face is arguably one of the most dangerous technical and demanding routes in the world. Steve and Vince were required to go as light as possible while being prepared for extreme temperatures. And though the clothing system presented here may not work for everyone, it is well worth seeing what world class alpinists prefer.

September and October Climbing Events

--September 18 -- Bozeman, MT -- Alpinist Film Festival Tour

--September 18-21 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- HERA Climb for Life

--September 18-21 -- Ogden, UT -- Utah Mountain Film Fest

--September 21-27 -- Whistler, BC -- ISSW Avalanche Workshop

--September 24-28 -- Yosemite Valley, CA -- Yosemite Facelift

--September 27 -- Portland, OR -- Portland Ice Festival

--September 29 -- Eugene, OR -- Justen Sjong Slideshow

--October 1 -- Portland, OR -- Ozone Guidebook Party and Fundraiser

--October 3-9 -- Indian Creek, UT -- Internationalize Indian Creek

--October 10-12 -- Front Range, CO -- AAC's Inaugural Craggin' Classic

--October 10-12 -- Leavenworth, WA -- Cascadeclimbers.Com Rope-Up

--October 16 -- Seattle, WA -- Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 17 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 19-21 -- Bend, OR -- AMGA Annual Meeting

--September-November -- Various Other Locations -- Reel Rock Film Tour