Late Tuesday night, a massive slide covered the Sea to Sky Highway in the Porteau Cove area. The highway will be closed for at least 5 days, an estimate that officials think is fairly reasonable, considering that the debris is piled 30-ft high, and is covering 250-ft of the roadway. There is an alternate route through Duffy Lake, and they are also considering using a temporary ferry service. For more information, please read The Vancouver Sun or click here.Breaking News: Roadslide Blocks Highway to Squamish and Whistler
Late Tuesday night, a massive slide covered the Sea to Sky Highway in the Porteau Cove area. The highway will be closed for at least 5 days, an estimate that officials think is fairly reasonable, considering that the debris is piled 30-ft high, and is covering 250-ft of the roadway. There is an alternate route through Duffy Lake, and they are also considering using a temporary ferry service. For more information, please read The Vancouver Sun or click here.
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- July 31, 2008
NORTHWEST:
.
--On July 27th, Dr. Walter Lee, a 55 year-old oncologist from Eugene, Oregon, was killed on Mount Hood. Lee and his 20 year-old son were descending the Cooper Spur route when the man was struck by rockfall and thrown from his stance. To read more, click here.
.
--There is a request floating around the internet for input on a new management strategy for the climbing resources in Squamish. The last series of policies were generated a decade ago. Certainly, anytime they open up a climbing management plan for revision, we as climbers risk losing access to certain crags or the use of fixed anchors or both. To read more, click here.
.
SIERRA:
.
--Wolverines were long thought to have disappeared in the Sierra, but an image caught on a hidden wildlife viewing camera has changed everything. On February 28th, wildlife biologists captured an image of an animal that is indisputably a wolverine. Proof of the animal's existence in the Sierra may put it on the endangered species list and have an impact on numerous land use decisions. To read more, click more.
.
--There is a conversation going on at supertopo.com about the garbage at Camp 6 on the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite. The camp is nothing more than a large ledge on a pillar. The backside of the pillar is detached and filled with years of garbage. The original poster in the supertopo thread proposes to clean out the hole and then plug it with something that looks like granite. The Nose sees thousands of ascents a year and is considered by many to be "the best" rock climb in the world. To read more, click here.
.
--Three-thousand five-hundred firefighters continue to battle a blaze set by a target shooter just outside the boundaries of Yosemite National Park. Twenty-one houses have been destroyed and nearly four thousand more are under threat. The visibility in Yosemite Valley is terrible and some visitors are encountering breathing problems. To read more, click here and here and here.
..
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
.
--A horrible tragedy was suffered in the Alps this week. A Dutch family of four -- all roped together -- fell, after one member stumbled and was was unable to regain his footing. The family fell nearly 1,600 feet before their bodies came to a rest. The mother was the only survivor. To read more, click here.
.
--Russian climbers, Valery Babonov and Victor Afanaziev, summited Broad Peak (26,400 feet) via a new route on the northwest face on July 17, 2008. To read more, click here.
.
--There have been two high profile helicopter rescues in the Karakoram in recent weeks. Italian alpinists Simon Kehrer and Walter Nones were plucked off of Nanga Parabat (25,643') last week after suffering the loss of a team member followed by an epic attempt to get off the mountain. On July 27th, a group of Austrians were rescued from Spantik (23,054') after their guide suffered a broken leg. To read more, click here.
.
--In a related story, British climber Benjamin Cheek is still missing on Shimshal Whitehorn (20,679') in the Karakoram. To read more, click here.
.
--It appears that for the second year in a row, the north side of Mount Everest will be closed to climbers. Chinese officials in conjunction with the Tibetan Environmental Protection Bureau indicate that they will close the north side for a "clean-up." To read more, click here.
.
--Speaking of Mount Everest, this series of video podcasts of an Everest expedition is pretty cool.
.
--In 1974, Frenchman Philippe Petite strung a cable between the twin towers and proceeded to walk across the void several times. A new documentary entitled "Man on a Wire" explores this daredevil's motivations. It appears that what brought him to the skyscrapers is what brings the strongest of climbers into the mountains: a need to tempt the impossible. To read more, click here.
.
--Bears are seldom a real threat to human beings. Occasionally however, an incident will take place that reminds us that we are not at the top of the food chain. This was the case at a mine in a remote region of Russia last week when a pack of at least thirty hungry bears attacked and killed two guards. Understandibly, terrified miners are refusing to go back to work. To read more, click here.
Discovery Channel Looking for Adventurers
The Discovery Channel is looking for individuals that want to join an epic journey through Alaska. Do you think you have what it takes? If you would like to be a part of the next Alaska Adventurer Challenge, click here.
To watch episodes from last season's challenge, click here.
To watch episodes from last season's challenge, click here.
Conditions Report -- July 30, 2008
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The toilets on both the north and the south side of Mount Baker are now in place. Enjoy!
--One of our teams witnessed a massive -- Alaska sized -- snow bridge collapse just below the North Ridge of Mount Baker this weekend. It appears that there was some instability in the crevasses below the surface. One guide indicated that he thought it simply wasn't freezing down there. The bridge that collapsed was forty by forty.
--The beautiful weather is providing for a lot of great ascents. People have reported on climbs of Forbidden Peak, Sherpa Peak, Mount Rainier, and Bonanza Peak.
--The most hardcore skiers are still at it. Here is a report from Mount Rainier and here's one from Mount Olympus.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--A major fire is burning on the west side of Yosemite, just outside the boundaries of the park. The fire has already consumed 25 houses and displaced at least three hundred people. At least 3,400 firefighters are working to get the blaze under control. To read more, click here.
--This is a very nice trip report with great photos from a climb of Temple Crag in the Eastern Sierra. And here is another less descriptive trip report from Matthes Crest.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite and Rainier may be found here.
ALPS:
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite and Rainier may be found here.
Trip Report: Mount Baker
We just received a quick trip report from Justin Wood, lead guide on this past weekend's Mount Baker climb:
Day one: Ten climbers joined fellow AAI guide Kristen Looper and me at the AAI office Saturday morning, and after reviewing gear, efficiently packing our packs, and loading up the AAI vans, we headed for the Coleman glacier. We arrived at the Hogsback Camp at 2:00pm with very high spirits, though the weather was looking gloomy. After setting up camp, we took a short break for lunch. We then spent some time reviewing the use of the technical equipment we would be using and introduced and practiced several climbing knots. We concluded the evening by demonstrating how to properly rope up for glacier travel.
Day two: Although it was raining, everyone had a lot of enthusiasm to continue learning the skills necessary to complete this climb. We spent more time on climbing technique and working on knots, practiced self-arrest, and concluded the day applying glacier travel skills during a tour of part of the Coleman glacier. We were all excited when the skies cleared around 7:00pm.
Day three (Summit day): It was quite hard to sleep once the weather turned nice, and we knew we were going to get a real chance to make the summit. But we did get up in time for a 1:00am departure from the 6000’ camp. We were treated to starry skies during the first three hours that we were headed for the summit, and we enjoyed the sight of the rising crescent moon. As the sun came up, we were nearing the summit, and at about 7:30am, all 12 members of our group made it to the top. We were lucky to have expansive views of the Cascades in three directions and the San Juan Islands to the west. After enjoying some views, we made an efficient return to our camp where we had some food, took a rest, and packed up. We then headed down the trail and made it back to Bellingham and the AAI office by 6:00pm, celebrating our success!
Day one: Ten climbers joined fellow AAI guide Kristen Looper and me at the AAI office Saturday morning, and after reviewing gear, efficiently packing our packs, and loading up the AAI vans, we headed for the Coleman glacier. We arrived at the Hogsback Camp at 2:00pm with very high spirits, though the weather was looking gloomy. After setting up camp, we took a short break for lunch. We then spent some time reviewing the use of the technical equipment we would be using and introduced and practiced several climbing knots. We concluded the evening by demonstrating how to properly rope up for glacier travel.
Day two: Although it was raining, everyone had a lot of enthusiasm to continue learning the skills necessary to complete this climb. We spent more time on climbing technique and working on knots, practiced self-arrest, and concluded the day applying glacier travel skills during a tour of part of the Coleman glacier. We were all excited when the skies cleared around 7:00pm.
Day three (Summit day): It was quite hard to sleep once the weather turned nice, and we knew we were going to get a real chance to make the summit. But we did get up in time for a 1:00am departure from the 6000’ camp. We were treated to starry skies during the first three hours that we were headed for the summit, and we enjoyed the sight of the rising crescent moon. As the sun came up, we were nearing the summit, and at about 7:30am, all 12 members of our group made it to the top. We were lucky to have expansive views of the Cascades in three directions and the San Juan Islands to the west. After enjoying some views, we made an efficient return to our camp where we had some food, took a rest, and packed up. We then headed down the trail and made it back to Bellingham and the AAI office by 6:00pm, celebrating our success!
2008 Heather Meadows Guest Speaker Program
The following came from the good folks at the Mount-Baker Snoqualmie National Forest. Some of these look like very interesting programs!
Sunday, August 3
An Excursion on Fire and Ice
Join Whatcom County Parks interpreter David Bean for a walk through the geologic history of the Heather Meadows area.
Saturday, August 9
Mountain Goats of Mt. Baker
Mt. Baker Ranger District biologist Don Gay speaks about local mountain
goat herds.
Sunday, August 10
A Tale of Many Volcanoes: Volcanic Rocks at Artist Point
Join Dave Tucker, Mount Baker volcanologist and research associate at Western Washington University’s Geology Department, for a geological trip back in time. Meet at 1 p.m. near the bathrooms in the Artist Point parking lot.
Saturday, August 16
Avalanche Awareness
Learn more about how to be safe in a mountain environment from an Avalanche Safety Awareness Program educational volunteer.
Sunday, August 18
Subalpine Bird Walk
Come and find out about the birds of Heather Meadows. This walk in the Bagley Lakes area, led by Forest Service Volunteer Mary-Beth Phelan, will start at the Heather Meadows Visitor. *this program is not wheelchair accessible*.
Saturday, August 23
Stringing the Past Together--12 noon
Enjoy a musical presentation about the human history of the Mt. Baker area. Original songs are written and performed by local musician Jimmy Brite and wilderness ranger Luca Williams. Audience participation is encouraged. Come blow your horn for Jerry Bourn.
Subalpine Plant Walk 1 p.m.
Join Mountain Steward and former Komo Kulshan Native Plant Society club president Walt Lockwood for a guided plant walk around Bagley Lakes. *this program is not wheelchair accessible*
Sunday, August 24
Mt. Baker the Stories Behind the Beauty: Reminisces of Jake Steiner as told to Virginia Hoyt, Part 1
Local historian and author Virginia Hoyt will present a slide show about the road development of the area. Jake Steiner was born in Glacier. His father homesteaded in the area in the late 1800s.
Saturday, August 30
Nooksack Tribal Stories
Join Nooksack elder Tammy Cooper-Woodrich for traditional stories about the animals, plants, and people of the Nooksack River drainage.
Sunday, August 31
Mt. Baker the Stories Behind the Beauty: Reminisces of Jake Steiner as told to Virginia Hoyt, Part 2
Local historian and author Virginia Hoyt will present a slide show about the trees of the area. Jake Steiner was born in Glacier. His father homesteaded in the area in the late 1800s.
All programs start at 1 p.m. at the Heather Meadows Visitor Center unless otherwise noted. All programs are accessible unless otherwise noted. Programs are free, but a valid parking pass is required. For more information call the Glacier Public Service Center at 360-599-2714, open daily, 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Sunday, August 3
An Excursion on Fire and Ice
Join Whatcom County Parks interpreter David Bean for a walk through the geologic history of the Heather Meadows area.
Saturday, August 9
Mountain Goats of Mt. Baker
Mt. Baker Ranger District biologist Don Gay speaks about local mountain
goat herds.
Sunday, August 10
A Tale of Many Volcanoes: Volcanic Rocks at Artist Point
Join Dave Tucker, Mount Baker volcanologist and research associate at Western Washington University’s Geology Department, for a geological trip back in time. Meet at 1 p.m. near the bathrooms in the Artist Point parking lot.
Saturday, August 16
Avalanche Awareness
Learn more about how to be safe in a mountain environment from an Avalanche Safety Awareness Program educational volunteer.
Sunday, August 18
Subalpine Bird Walk
Come and find out about the birds of Heather Meadows. This walk in the Bagley Lakes area, led by Forest Service Volunteer Mary-Beth Phelan, will start at the Heather Meadows Visitor. *this program is not wheelchair accessible*.
Saturday, August 23
Stringing the Past Together--12 noon
Enjoy a musical presentation about the human history of the Mt. Baker area. Original songs are written and performed by local musician Jimmy Brite and wilderness ranger Luca Williams. Audience participation is encouraged. Come blow your horn for Jerry Bourn.
Subalpine Plant Walk 1 p.m.
Join Mountain Steward and former Komo Kulshan Native Plant Society club president Walt Lockwood for a guided plant walk around Bagley Lakes. *this program is not wheelchair accessible*
Sunday, August 24
Mt. Baker the Stories Behind the Beauty: Reminisces of Jake Steiner as told to Virginia Hoyt, Part 1
Local historian and author Virginia Hoyt will present a slide show about the road development of the area. Jake Steiner was born in Glacier. His father homesteaded in the area in the late 1800s.
Saturday, August 30
Nooksack Tribal Stories
Join Nooksack elder Tammy Cooper-Woodrich for traditional stories about the animals, plants, and people of the Nooksack River drainage.
Sunday, August 31
Mt. Baker the Stories Behind the Beauty: Reminisces of Jake Steiner as told to Virginia Hoyt, Part 2
Local historian and author Virginia Hoyt will present a slide show about the trees of the area. Jake Steiner was born in Glacier. His father homesteaded in the area in the late 1800s.
August and September Climbing Events
--August 8-9 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Mammut Bouldering Championship
--August 8-10 -- Morgantown, WV -- Appalachian Wilderness Medicine Conference
--August 16 -- Mt. Baker Ski Area, WA -- Avalanche Awareness
--August 16 -- Mt. Baker Ski Area, WA -- Avalanche Awareness
--August 16-17 -- Bear Valley, CA -- Bear Valley Adventure Sports Festival
--August 16-23 -- Bicz Gorges National Park, Romania -- International Youth Climbing Camp
--September 5-7 -- Pine Mountain, CA -- Pine Mountain Pulldown
--September 18-21 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- HERA Climb for Life
--September 24-28 -- Yosemite Valley, CA -- Yosemite Facelift
--September 29 -- Eugene, OR -- Justen Sjong Slideshow
A Near Miss
There are days when I want to climb for the fun of it, and there are days when I just go with the flow. I rarely feel the need to push myself these days, though I admit that sometimes these moments flare up. Often times, however, I just want to do something, and that is what I decided to do at the 'Gunks on Saturday.Friday afternoon was restless for me. I had taken the previous afternoon off and
Rock Climbing Styles
Many beginning level climbers are confused by the terminology used to define different styles of climbing. This isn't too surprising because there are a lot of terms that get thrown around. The following is a quick discussion of the different types and styles of climbing and what they entail.
Toprope Climbing
When a climber uses the term "toprope," he is referring to a technique wherein an anchor is set at the top of the cliff. A rope runs from a belayer at the base of the cliff, up to the anchor and then back down to the climber. As the climber ascends the wall, the belayer takes in rope through his belay device. If the climber falls, the belayer merely locks off his device, arresting the fall. This system is designed to stop the climber's fall immediately.
Toproped climbing is very safe because no one is required to "lead." In most cases, climbers are simply able walk around to the top of a cliff in order to set-up the system.
Lead Climbing
The leader is the first person to climb a cliff. As the leader ascends the wall he drags a rope up that is tied to his harness. As he works his way up a wall he will put in rock protection. After the "pro" is in place, the leader may clip the rope into the gear while the follower belays from below. Should the leader fall, the follower will "catch" him in midair with the belay device.
Of course, if the leader falls 10 feet above the last piece of protection, he will actually fall 20 feet or more before the follower catches him. That makes the leader's job quite risky. Once the leader is on top, he may build an anchor, clip into it and put his partner on belay, essentially providing the follower a toprope.
Lead climbing may be done on both traditional and sport climbs.
Free Climbing
Toprope Climbing
When a climber uses the term "toprope," he is referring to a technique wherein an anchor is set at the top of the cliff. A rope runs from a belayer at the base of the cliff, up to the anchor and then back down to the climber. As the climber ascends the wall, the belayer takes in rope through his belay device. If the climber falls, the belayer merely locks off his device, arresting the fall. This system is designed to stop the climber's fall immediately.
Toproped climbing is very safe because no one is required to "lead." In most cases, climbers are simply able walk around to the top of a cliff in order to set-up the system.Lead Climbing
The leader is the first person to climb a cliff. As the leader ascends the wall he drags a rope up that is tied to his harness. As he works his way up a wall he will put in rock protection. After the "pro" is in place, the leader may clip the rope into the gear while the follower belays from below. Should the leader fall, the follower will "catch" him in midair with the belay device.
Of course, if the leader falls 10 feet above the last piece of protection, he will actually fall 20 feet or more before the follower catches him. That makes the leader's job quite risky. Once the leader is on top, he may build an anchor, clip into it and put his partner on belay, essentially providing the follower a toprope.
Lead climbing may be done on both traditional and sport climbs.
Free Climbing
Free climbing does not mean, "without a rope." Conversely, free climbing absolutely requires a rope. The defining characteristic of free climbing is that it does not require an individual to pull on protection. The protection exists to keep a climber from hitting the ground should he fall, not to aid the climber on his ascent.
Aid Climbing
The polar opposite of free climbing is aid climbing. When an individual aid climbs, he places a piece of protection and then clips a nylon ladder to it. He then climbs up the ladder and places another piece, repeating the process over and over again. The climber is using direct aid to ascend the cliff face. This is often done when it is much too difficult to free climb.
Trad Climbing
Sport Climbing
The polar opposite of free climbing is aid climbing. When an individual aid climbs, he places a piece of protection and then clips a nylon ladder to it. He then climbs up the ladder and places another piece, repeating the process over and over again. The climber is using direct aid to ascend the cliff face. This is often done when it is much too difficult to free climb.
Big routes in Zion National Park and in Yosemite National Park are commonly aided. These are the massive routes that sometimes require portaledges or bivies on the wall. Big wall aid climbing is in many ways analogous to vertical backpacking. And while most big wall climbs require some free climbing, they tend to lean toward direct aid.
Free Soloing
Free Soloing
Free soloing is the art of climbing without any ropes whatsoever. A fall under these circumstances will result in serious injury or death. Free soloing is incredibly dangerous and is only practiced by a small percentage of climbers.
Trad Climbing
Traditional climbing, or "trad" climbing, is a style of climbing that requires the leader to carry all of his protection with him. In other words, the leader carries an array of camming devices, wired nuts and other assorted odds and ends that might be used to protect the route. Traditionalists will not alter to rock in order to create protection for the leader. In other words, a true traditional route does not have any bolts on it.
Sport Climbing
Sport climbing is a style of climbing that requires significantly less equipment than trad climbing. A sport climb is a route manufactured with bolts. A true sport climb does not require any traditional gear at all.
Many consider sport climbing to be much safer than trad climbing because in most cases the routes have been manufactured in such a way that they are safe for a leader. As a result, this is an incredibly popular form of climbing.
Conclusion
Climbing is an incredibly varied sport and the preceding is only the most elemental breakdown of it from a stylistic perspective. That said, an understanding of this beginner level material will help the novice climber to understand the many conversations about style that take place in the climbing world every day.
Last chance! Submit Your Photo Today!
Think you can beat this photo on the right? Well, they won the January 2008 Photo Contest, so make sure you've got something good!The next AAI E-Newsletter and Photo Contest is set to release August 1st! This means that the deadline for new photos for the contest is coming right up. If you've got some great shots of a trip with us, or on an expedition of your own, we'd love to publish them in our E-Newsletter.
To check out the May 2008 photo contest, click here.
To submit your photos to the AAI Photo Contest, email them to climberspath@aai.cc.
You can win great prizes!
1st Place: $100 gift certificate for trips or gear
2nd Place: $75 gift certificate for trips or gear
3rd Place: $50 gift certificate for trips or gear
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!
Do any of you know what time of the week it is? If you said that it is time for another edition of Weekend Warrior than you are absolutely correct! I hope that all of you are making the most of your weekends this summer and if you aren't....just watch these videos and you won't be able to keep yourself from going outside and playing.
If you don't have a lot of time to spare this weekend then this first video is for you. It is short but jam packed with incredibly dramatic alpine scenery and exciting climbing footage. This video is the trailer for the Alps IMAX movie and even though it came out quite some time ago it is still worth a watch for a quick adrenaline rush.
The second video is for anyone who can't stop daydreaming of powder turns and the beautiful backcountry that so often accompanies them. Watch "The Spirit of Snow" and get stoked to search for those elusive summer slopes high in the mountains.
The last video on the line-up features some amazing desert rock climbing. Watch as Rob Pizem and Mike Brumbaugh attempt to climb 5 huge desert towers in a 24 hour period. They aren't just taking the easy way either. After I watched this video I couldn't wait for the desert to cool down and make climbing there tolerable.
If you don't have a lot of time to spare this weekend then this first video is for you. It is short but jam packed with incredibly dramatic alpine scenery and exciting climbing footage. This video is the trailer for the Alps IMAX movie and even though it came out quite some time ago it is still worth a watch for a quick adrenaline rush.
The second video is for anyone who can't stop daydreaming of powder turns and the beautiful backcountry that so often accompanies them. Watch "The Spirit of Snow" and get stoked to search for those elusive summer slopes high in the mountains.
The last video on the line-up features some amazing desert rock climbing. Watch as Rob Pizem and Mike Brumbaugh attempt to climb 5 huge desert towers in a 24 hour period. They aren't just taking the easy way either. After I watched this video I couldn't wait for the desert to cool down and make climbing there tolerable.
Alpine Solitude
In the end of our lives we must all travel alone. We travel a well worn path without guidebook or map to a place that nobody knows. Left behind are the many connections we have made like spun silk cast out into space to those who knew us. The web is cut with amazing speed and finality as the rest of us try ineffectually to re-establish the connection.Recently a friend of mine was killed when he
Jason Becomes a Father: Round 2
Jason Martin, AAI Program Coordinator and Guide, is now the proud father of a brand new son, born July 24, 2008! Jason and his wife Krista have named the new little guy Caden Jase Martin. Check out the pictures below of Jason, Krista, baby Caden, and his older sister Holly.
Congratulations Jason, we are so excited for the whole family!
Congratulations Jason, we are so excited for the whole family!
Holly and Jason take a walk the day before Caden arrives.
Caden Jase Martin
Krista and Caden
Holly and Caden get to know each other.
Beached Whale
Why do I have epics on Cannon every time I go? The first epic was due to poor advice and an inability to understand the weather dangers. The second was due an overreaction of the first experience and a poor understanding of the descent. The third was my inability to tap into my Piscean observation talents.Our goal was to climb Moby Grape (5.8): a musical line of eight to nine pitches of mostly
Trip Report: North Ridge of Mount Baker
Last week Bill Thompson and guide Ian McEleney climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker. Read Ian's story below:I met up with Bill at the AAI office Friday morning. By late afternoon, we were walking into a busy camp at about 6000-feet on the Hogsback. We settled in to our tents and tried to go to bed early for our alpine start the next morning.
After only a few hours of sleep we were roping up and picking our way across the upper Coleman Glacier. Navigating by headlamp through crevasses that could swallow a house will always be exciting, no matter how much glacier experience you have. About halfway to the base of the ridge we came across the tracks of another party. I've learned that following tracks isn’t always a good idea. This is because the climbers who made them might not have had the same destination as you, and even if they did, they might not know how to get there! However, we could see the headlamps of this particular party in the distance so we knew they were going to the North Ridge. After reminding ourselves not to follow their tracks if we didn’t like where they went, we decided to follow them.
We took the direct start to the route, which went up a steep snowfield sometimes called The Hourglass. Earlier in the season, this area was a mellow snow bench leading up to steeper ice. Last week, however, this bench featured a crevasse and a 25-degree slope of hard water ice mixed with gravel. We pulled our second tools out of our packs and went to work. This terrain took us a little while to negotiate, but eventually we were climbing some steep ice to gain a 60-degree ramp that went up about two pitches high. Bill had expressed some nervousness about the steep ice, but when showtime came, he made quick work of it. Later, Bill told me that "The climb was harder than I expected, not because it was too technical, but because the harder sections went on for longer than I had read about." But the steep ice was hard and in the shade, so pulling over onto the sunny ramp with its one-swing “hero” ice was a pleasure. Above the ramp we climbed a little more steep snow, and then it was time for lunch.
After our lunch break we faced our last hurdle, the bergschrund guarding the summit plateau. The best route through this area changes quickly. This time it required climbing two steps of steep snow, the first was about 50 degrees and the second 90 degrees. We had stowed our second tools, but the snow was pretty firm so this wasn’t an issue. Above this, a quick walk put us on top. Though our day certainly wasn’t over (we still had to descend 4000 vertical feet of steep snow and glacier), the technical terrain was almost completely behind us. As Bill said, "Although this route was difficult and technical, it just made the climb all the more satisfying by the end." We could finally start to relax a little and daydream about the first thing we were going to eat when we got back to town.
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- July 24, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--Congratulations are in order to Viren Perumal, Ben Traxler, Dana Hickenbottom, Julie Schoenfeld, and Nathan Zumwalt. This group of guides -- the first three from AAI -- all successfully passed their American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Certification Exam. The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. To learn more about this, click here.
SOUTHWEST:
--Congratulations to Jason Martin! The AAI guide/program coordinator and his wife had a baby boy this morning in Las Vegas. More news to come on this front!
--The search for 44 year-old Ric DeVan has come to a tragic end. Authorities located the man's body near Bishop Pass in the Eastern Sierra. DeVan went missing while on a solo tour on July 5th. Search and Rescue officials suspended the search on Saturday. A backpacker is responsible for discovering the body after investigating a rock slide. To read more about this tragic incident, click here.
ALASKA:
--Eleven year-old Jordon Romero summitted Denali on June 19th. With this feat, Romero became the second 11 year-old to stand on the top of the tallest peak in North America. Denali is the fourth summit in the young man's quest to climb the seven summits. To read more, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Respected Italian alpinist Karl Unterkircher was reportedly killed in a crevasse fall on Nanga Parbat (26,660') last week. Unterkircher and his partners were at approximately 20,000 feet when a snow bridge collapsed beneath the climber. Unterkircher fell to the bottom of a deep crevasse. His partners Simon Kehrer and Walter Nones worked through the night to retrieve the man but were ultimately unable to do so. To read more, click here and here.
--Teton climbing guide George Gardner died on Saturday while making a solo ascent of the Lower Exum Ridge. To read more about this tragedy, click here.
--The Merced River in Yosemite Valley is one of the most scenic rivers in the country. The river is currently under federal protection, but what does that protection mean? What level of recreational use is acceptable? Officials in Yosemite National Park must come up with a plan that accommodates both its use and protection. To read more, click here.
--After multiple ascents over the last few months, the New York Time Building is now altering its facade to keep climbers from sending the 52 story building. To read more, click here.
--Climbing guide Frank Sanders decided to do something a little unusual to draw attention to the poverty stricken Native Americans around the Devils Tower National Monument. Over a period of a year, the fifty-seven year old climbed "the Tower" 365 times. To read more, click here.
--Three German climbers who were kidnapped by PKK Kurdish Rebels in Turkey while on an ascent of Mount Ararat were released on Sunday. The three Germans were seized on July 8th, reportedly to protest German pressure on Kurdish rebels' supporters in Germany. To read more, click here.
--Congratulations are in order to Viren Perumal, Ben Traxler, Dana Hickenbottom, Julie Schoenfeld, and Nathan Zumwalt. This group of guides -- the first three from AAI -- all successfully passed their American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Certification Exam. The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. To learn more about this, click here.
SOUTHWEST:
--Congratulations to Jason Martin! The AAI guide/program coordinator and his wife had a baby boy this morning in Las Vegas. More news to come on this front!
--The search for 44 year-old Ric DeVan has come to a tragic end. Authorities located the man's body near Bishop Pass in the Eastern Sierra. DeVan went missing while on a solo tour on July 5th. Search and Rescue officials suspended the search on Saturday. A backpacker is responsible for discovering the body after investigating a rock slide. To read more about this tragic incident, click here.
ALASKA:
--Eleven year-old Jordon Romero summitted Denali on June 19th. With this feat, Romero became the second 11 year-old to stand on the top of the tallest peak in North America. Denali is the fourth summit in the young man's quest to climb the seven summits. To read more, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Respected Italian alpinist Karl Unterkircher was reportedly killed in a crevasse fall on Nanga Parbat (26,660') last week. Unterkircher and his partners were at approximately 20,000 feet when a snow bridge collapsed beneath the climber. Unterkircher fell to the bottom of a deep crevasse. His partners Simon Kehrer and Walter Nones worked through the night to retrieve the man but were ultimately unable to do so. To read more, click here and here.
--Teton climbing guide George Gardner died on Saturday while making a solo ascent of the Lower Exum Ridge. To read more about this tragedy, click here.
--The Merced River in Yosemite Valley is one of the most scenic rivers in the country. The river is currently under federal protection, but what does that protection mean? What level of recreational use is acceptable? Officials in Yosemite National Park must come up with a plan that accommodates both its use and protection. To read more, click here.
--After multiple ascents over the last few months, the New York Time Building is now altering its facade to keep climbers from sending the 52 story building. To read more, click here.
--Climbing guide Frank Sanders decided to do something a little unusual to draw attention to the poverty stricken Native Americans around the Devils Tower National Monument. Over a period of a year, the fifty-seven year old climbed "the Tower" 365 times. To read more, click here.
--Three German climbers who were kidnapped by PKK Kurdish Rebels in Turkey while on an ascent of Mount Ararat were released on Sunday. The three Germans were seized on July 8th, reportedly to protest German pressure on Kurdish rebels' supporters in Germany. To read more, click here.
--The Discovery Channel is currently casting a new show about Alaskan adventurers. They are looking for real-life adventure seekers to make the show feel "real." To read more about this, click here.
2008 Camp Patriot Climb
The motto for Camp Patriot, “giving back to those that have given” effectively states their mission: to provide disabled veterans opportunities to continue enjoying outdoor adventures. In this spirit, three disabled veterans were chosen to join professional climbing guides on a summit climb of Mount Rainier, a challenge that many climbers without any physical obstacles find difficult. The three participating climbers, Ryan Job, Chad Jukes and Joey Martinez, all served in the military and are disabled as a result of injuries sustained during a tour of duty oversees defending our country. Each was chosen because of their unwavering commitment to service, their strength, courage, and dedication to continue living active and fulfilling lives despite past injury. Camp Patriot commemorates these exceptional men and in the process provides this experience of a lifetime.
The attached photo was taken on the last day of Camp, Sunday July 10th, when two F15's from the 173rdFW out of Klamath Falls, OR, flew overhead Camp Muir at precisely 8:00 a.m. to celebrate this extraordinary climb. For more information about Camp Patriot and the 2008 Mount Rainier climb, see a recent front page article posted in the Seattle Times
Conditions Report -- July 23, 2008
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--AAI Guide Alasdair Turner climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker the other day and had the following to say: "The route is in really good shape. We reached the ice pitches via the normal way to the right of the buttress. It looks like some people have gone left of the buttress, but this adds more time and is not necessary. As far as route beta goes, go straight up. There is a small traverse on the summit to avoid a HUGE shrund, which is worth walking to the edge of to look in since it is big enough to fit many houses inside. To exit the ridge to the summit, dogleg very slightly right (20 meters) and go straight up the steep wall to the summit plateau. The route is in icy shape where it should be, and has perfect hard snow where it should be. I used bomber ice screw belays on the ice pitches and single ice axe belays above that with solid picket placements for running pro."
--The plastic pit toilets will be helicoptered into Mount Baker today. These toilets will be placed at strategic locations on both the north and the south side of the mountain.
--For those of you who are new to climbing in Squamish, it's important to remember that there is a lot of theft in the area. Protect yourself by taking valuables out of your car. To read about one unfortunate victims first trip to Squamish, click here.
--The climbing season has really taken off in Darrington. This particular climbing area is one of the best kept secrets in Washington. To read about the conditions, click here.
--The massive 12.5 square mile Cold Springs fire near Mount Adams was 75 percent contained as of Monday. To read more about this, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--AAI Guide Alasdair Turner climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker the other day and had the following to say: "The route is in really good shape. We reached the ice pitches via the normal way to the right of the buttress. It looks like some people have gone left of the buttress, but this adds more time and is not necessary. As far as route beta goes, go straight up. There is a small traverse on the summit to avoid a HUGE shrund, which is worth walking to the edge of to look in since it is big enough to fit many houses inside. To exit the ridge to the summit, dogleg very slightly right (20 meters) and go straight up the steep wall to the summit plateau. The route is in icy shape where it should be, and has perfect hard snow where it should be. I used bomber ice screw belays on the ice pitches and single ice axe belays above that with solid picket placements for running pro."
--The plastic pit toilets will be helicoptered into Mount Baker today. These toilets will be placed at strategic locations on both the north and the south side of the mountain.
--For those of you who are new to climbing in Squamish, it's important to remember that there is a lot of theft in the area. Protect yourself by taking valuables out of your car. To read about one unfortunate victims first trip to Squamish, click here.
--The climbing season has really taken off in Darrington. This particular climbing area is one of the best kept secrets in Washington. To read about the conditions, click here.
--The massive 12.5 square mile Cold Springs fire near Mount Adams was 75 percent contained as of Monday. To read more about this, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
Another record - Puget Sound to Columbia Crest and back in one day
Climbers strive to push the boundary of their sport to new limits every day – faster ascent times (see the recent post about Justin Merle’s new unofficial speed summit record), more difficult routes, and even multi-sport athletic events. In the case of Randall Nordfors, he turned a simple guided summit climb with International Mountain Guides (IMG) into a full-on endurance race. Not only did he set out to bicycle a total of 162 miles from Puget Sound to Paradise and back, but he threw in a single push speed summit. If this trip wasn’t challenging enough, Nordfors set himself two personal goals: #1 Summit in under 12 hours and #2 Complete the entire trip in less than 20 hours. The starting point for Nordfors trek was Tolmie State Park, located just a few miles from the end of the Nisqually River, whose source is glaciers up on Rainier. Despite problems that caused a slower than expected start and impossible to control time delays due to traffic and stop lights, Nordsfor still made the trip to Paradise in well under 5 hours. After successfully achieving his first goal in 11 hours and 40 minutes, Nordfors was back on his bike and headed downhill at speeds of about 40 mph. Although the final stage of his trip was mostly downhill, staying alert after such sustained physical exertion is a huge challenge. The final stretch of road was for sure the defining point of the trip. Behind in his time, Nordfors left nothing on the road, peddling hard and fast to make up for lost time and pulling in to Tolmie Park like a madman, finishing just under his goal of 20 hours at 19 hours 57 minutes and 30 seconds. Not bad for a day’s work...
Randall's To Do List:
Summit Mount Rainier under 12 hours – CHECK!
Finish crazy long bike ride and climb in under 20 hours – CHECK!
According to Nordfors, other than the actual physical conditioning required to complete this sort of endurance event, the two most important aspects of his training was eating when your body didn’t want to, and staying focused and mentally alert while your body is completely exhausted. As a retired competitive bicycle racer, Nordsfors is not new to intense training and challenges. Although only a novice climber, Nordfors, 45, decided that after his retirement from racing a few years ago, he wanted to try new things and test the ability of his body to new limits. His trip from Puget Sound to Summit certainly proved to be a worthy challenge, and although Nordfors achieved both of his lofty goals, he is not completely satisfied with his bicycle ride from Tolmie Park to Paradise and will attempt to improve his time in a another epic tour. Best of luck on your next adventure Randall!
Summit Mount Rainier under 12 hours – CHECK!
Finish crazy long bike ride and climb in under 20 hours – CHECK!
According to Nordfors, other than the actual physical conditioning required to complete this sort of endurance event, the two most important aspects of his training was eating when your body didn’t want to, and staying focused and mentally alert while your body is completely exhausted. As a retired competitive bicycle racer, Nordsfors is not new to intense training and challenges. Although only a novice climber, Nordfors, 45, decided that after his retirement from racing a few years ago, he wanted to try new things and test the ability of his body to new limits. His trip from Puget Sound to Summit certainly proved to be a worthy challenge, and although Nordfors achieved both of his lofty goals, he is not completely satisfied with his bicycle ride from Tolmie Park to Paradise and will attempt to improve his time in a another epic tour. Best of luck on your next adventure Randall!
The Problem with Water
It was a few years ago now, but I remember it like yesterday. You don't forget something like that. It's too uncomfortable to forget. I was on Mount Baker and I drank some bad water. You can imagine what happened next. It wasn't pretty.
There are two major water-born protozoa that climbers must be aware of. Both Giardia and Cryptosporidium occur in lakes, rivers and streams throughout North America. They each take two to twenty days to manifest themselves. The most common symptoms of these protozoa are nausea, diarrhea, fever, headaches, stomach cramps, flatulence and belches that reek like rotten eggs.
In addition to protozoa, climbers must be concerned about viruses and bacteria in the water. We don't have to worry about water-born viruses too much in North America. Infectious hepatitis and other viruses are more commonly found in tropical waters. Bacteria such as salmonella and Escherichia coli may be found in some contaminated mountain water sources and alpinists should protect themselves against them.
There are three common ways to treat problematic water. The first way is to boil it, the second way is to disinfect with chemicals and the third way is to filter it.
Boiling Water:
There is perhaps no better way to kill anything that might live in the water and wants to live in your stomach than to boil it. Some people argue that you must bring your water to a boil for ten minutes. The reality is that if you bring the water to a rolling boil and then turn off your stove, anything that might be a real problem will be taken care of.
Treatment:
It's common for guides to use iodine to treat their water. Iodine tablets effectively kill viruses and bacteria...and they also effectively make the water taste terrible. Iodine is less effective agains Giardia and Cryptosporidium.
There is the possibility that too much iodine may be bad for your thyroid. This may not be too big of a deal for weekend warriors, but for those who spend a significant amount of time in the field, this could pose a serious health risk.
Another chemical, chlorine dioxide, is gaining popularity for treating water. This chemical reliably kills viruses, bacteria, Giardia and Cryptospridium, however the contact time required for killing protozoa may be unacceptably long for some climbers.
Water Filtration:
These are heavy items for alpinists to carry, but they do provide the quickest filtration. And though water filters do an excellent job removing protozoa, most models are less effective in with viruses and bacteria. A small percentage of the filters on the market include an integral iodine chamber that will treat the water for additional pathogens, but these models are more expensive, less common and may not always be effective.
There was a time when it was possible to trust running water in the mountains. That time is long gone. Today the wisest course of action is to treat all of the water that you drink...that or risk the uncomfortable consequences.
--Jason D. Martin
There are two major water-born protozoa that climbers must be aware of. Both Giardia and Cryptosporidium occur in lakes, rivers and streams throughout North America. They each take two to twenty days to manifest themselves. The most common symptoms of these protozoa are nausea, diarrhea, fever, headaches, stomach cramps, flatulence and belches that reek like rotten eggs.
In addition to protozoa, climbers must be concerned about viruses and bacteria in the water. We don't have to worry about water-born viruses too much in North America. Infectious hepatitis and other viruses are more commonly found in tropical waters. Bacteria such as salmonella and Escherichia coli may be found in some contaminated mountain water sources and alpinists should protect themselves against them.
There are three common ways to treat problematic water. The first way is to boil it, the second way is to disinfect with chemicals and the third way is to filter it.
Boiling Water:
There is perhaps no better way to kill anything that might live in the water and wants to live in your stomach than to boil it. Some people argue that you must bring your water to a boil for ten minutes. The reality is that if you bring the water to a rolling boil and then turn off your stove, anything that might be a real problem will be taken care of.
Treatment:
It's common for guides to use iodine to treat their water. Iodine tablets effectively kill viruses and bacteria...and they also effectively make the water taste terrible. Iodine is less effective agains Giardia and Cryptosporidium.
There is the possibility that too much iodine may be bad for your thyroid. This may not be too big of a deal for weekend warriors, but for those who spend a significant amount of time in the field, this could pose a serious health risk.
Another chemical, chlorine dioxide, is gaining popularity for treating water. This chemical reliably kills viruses, bacteria, Giardia and Cryptospridium, however the contact time required for killing protozoa may be unacceptably long for some climbers.
Water Filtration:
These are heavy items for alpinists to carry, but they do provide the quickest filtration. And though water filters do an excellent job removing protozoa, most models are less effective in with viruses and bacteria. A small percentage of the filters on the market include an integral iodine chamber that will treat the water for additional pathogens, but these models are more expensive, less common and may not always be effective.
There was a time when it was possible to trust running water in the mountains. That time is long gone. Today the wisest course of action is to treat all of the water that you drink...that or risk the uncomfortable consequences.
--Jason D. Martin
July and August Climbing Events
SOUTHWEST and SIERRA:
--August 16-17 -- Bear Valley Adventure Sports Festival
--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. For more info, click here.
--July 27 -- Allgäu Mountains, Germany -- UIAA Global Youth Summit: Hot rocks wild water camp in Germany
--August 6-11 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Outdoor Retailer Show
--August 8-9 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Mammut Bouldering Championship
--August 16-23 -- Bicz Gorges National Park, Romania -- International Youth Climbing Camp
--August 16-17 -- Bear Valley Adventure Sports Festival
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. For more info, click here.
--July 27 -- Allgäu Mountains, Germany -- UIAA Global Youth Summit: Hot rocks wild water camp in Germany
--August 6-11 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Outdoor Retailer Show
--August 8-9 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Mammut Bouldering Championship
--August 16-23 -- Bicz Gorges National Park, Romania -- International Youth Climbing Camp
Non-Event Feedback Loops
Many climbing and ski mountaineering accidents are the result of human error. There are a number of types of human error, but the most disconcerting and common type results from a non-event feedback loop.
--I've been doing it this this way for years and nothing bad has ever happened.
--We skied the slope all day and it was fine. How were we to know that it would slide?
--The boot-track went right under the ice cliff. I just went the way everybody else went.
The thinking process behind non-event feedback is predicated on the following belief: Nothing bad happened last time and nothing bad happened to someone else; therefore, nothing bad will happen this time to me. The psychology of non-event feedback is complex, but its very existence leads to following reality:
The crag that you climb the most, the slope that you ski the most, the mountain that you've been up the most times...these are the most dangerous places that you will ever go.
Non-event feedback takes on a new dimension with group dynamics. A beginner may follow a competent leader up a mountain. The leader may look at the conditions and decide that they're safe. If the leader doesn't go through his entire thinking process, the beginner may then make the assumption that the conditions are always safe.
Avalanche research indicates that the likelihood of skiers tackling a dangerous slope increases dramatically after one person successfully skis the slope first. In other words, once someone sees someone else get away with something, they subconsciously believe that they can get away with it too.
The only way to avoid getting stuck in non-event feedback loops is to constantly question yourself. Is this safe today? Am I just following the leader? And lastly, am I responding to the conditions as they are or as I wish they were?
--Jason D. Martin
--I've been doing it this this way for years and nothing bad has ever happened.
--We skied the slope all day and it was fine. How were we to know that it would slide?
--The boot-track went right under the ice cliff. I just went the way everybody else went.
The thinking process behind non-event feedback is predicated on the following belief: Nothing bad happened last time and nothing bad happened to someone else; therefore, nothing bad will happen this time to me. The psychology of non-event feedback is complex, but its very existence leads to following reality:
The crag that you climb the most, the slope that you ski the most, the mountain that you've been up the most times...these are the most dangerous places that you will ever go.
Non-event feedback takes on a new dimension with group dynamics. A beginner may follow a competent leader up a mountain. The leader may look at the conditions and decide that they're safe. If the leader doesn't go through his entire thinking process, the beginner may then make the assumption that the conditions are always safe.
Avalanche research indicates that the likelihood of skiers tackling a dangerous slope increases dramatically after one person successfully skis the slope first. In other words, once someone sees someone else get away with something, they subconsciously believe that they can get away with it too.
The only way to avoid getting stuck in non-event feedback loops is to constantly question yourself. Is this safe today? Am I just following the leader? And lastly, am I responding to the conditions as they are or as I wish they were?
--Jason D. Martin
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!
The weekend is upon us once again and it is time for us Warriors to get outside and play!
The weather is warm and the snow is melting here in the North Cascades and climbers are migrating into the mountains like the salmon of Capistrano. To help you get stoked we have an eclectic mix of videos for your viewing enjoyment.
The first video we have for you features two power couples of climbing teaming up to create a regular International Dream Team of big-wall alpine ascents. Watch as Americans Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell combine forces with French climbers Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet to climb the incredible Lotus Flower deep in the Yukon Territory...and I mean deep.
The second video of the weekend features some serious alpine climbing, beautiful scenery, and a killer soundtrack to boot. But seriously, I want to download this music to my iPod and listen to it every morning to get pumped up for the day. This montage-esque video documents an expedition to climb the Arwa Tower in the Indian Himalayas, a 900 meter climb that goes at VI M9 5.9 A3...sounds like a good time to me.
The final video may seem a little out of place in this line-up but I assure you that it is worthy to get you stoked! I don't know how many of you are familiar with the glorious Japanese television show called Ninja Warrior but it is basically an obstacle course on steroids. Watch as "The Fireman" makes his way past various challenges in an attempt to become a true Ninja Warrior. Just imagine what this guy could do on a rock face.
The weather is warm and the snow is melting here in the North Cascades and climbers are migrating into the mountains like the salmon of Capistrano. To help you get stoked we have an eclectic mix of videos for your viewing enjoyment.
The first video we have for you features two power couples of climbing teaming up to create a regular International Dream Team of big-wall alpine ascents. Watch as Americans Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell combine forces with French climbers Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet to climb the incredible Lotus Flower deep in the Yukon Territory...and I mean deep.
The second video of the weekend features some serious alpine climbing, beautiful scenery, and a killer soundtrack to boot. But seriously, I want to download this music to my iPod and listen to it every morning to get pumped up for the day. This montage-esque video documents an expedition to climb the Arwa Tower in the Indian Himalayas, a 900 meter climb that goes at VI M9 5.9 A3...sounds like a good time to me.
The final video may seem a little out of place in this line-up but I assure you that it is worthy to get you stoked! I don't know how many of you are familiar with the glorious Japanese television show called Ninja Warrior but it is basically an obstacle course on steroids. Watch as "The Fireman" makes his way past various challenges in an attempt to become a true Ninja Warrior. Just imagine what this guy could do on a rock face.
Route Updates - Don't be caught with old reports
The mid-season is upon Mount Rainier and the condition updates are flying in fast and furiously. FYI, updating a specific route condition report doesn't necessarily mean that the "update" will bounce to the top the "Updated Route Conditions" page. Hope that makes sense.
Anyway, in the past week, we've posted some great reports on: Little Tahoma, Fuhrer Finger, Kautz Glacier, Disappointment Cleaver, Tahoma Glacier, Emmons, and Muir Snowfield. Don't be caught on the mountain with old reports.
Anyway, in the past week, we've posted some great reports on: Little Tahoma, Fuhrer Finger, Kautz Glacier, Disappointment Cleaver, Tahoma Glacier, Emmons, and Muir Snowfield. Don't be caught on the mountain with old reports.
Top Ten Reasons Why Natasha Caldwell is Awesome
Natasha Caldwell, Program and Outreach Coordinator for AAI, is an incredible person and staff member. Today is her last day at the Institute, and to show her how much we are going to miss her, we put together this list - 'Top Ten Reasons Why Natasha is Awesome.' Although she will be moving on from her position in the office, she will always be a part of the AAI family.
1. She runs marathons.
2. She wants to kidnap Jason's baby.
3. Her hair is larger than her body.
4. She tells it like it is.
5. She's got the finest strut in town.
6. She can dance circles around anyone at Reggae Night - she is by far the best person to go out with on a Wednesday night!
7. Her theme song to life is "Rains down in Africa" by Toto . . . it doesn't get cooler than that
8. Her deep love and appreciation for the color pink
9. She is the most caring and compassionate friend
10. She is now the best person to go visit in Seattle!
Natasha, you are energetic, ambitious, considerate, thoughtful, organized, confident, courageous, kind, loyal, hilarious, and beautiful - We are going to miss you so much!
With Love,
Your AAI Family
1. She runs marathons.
2. She wants to kidnap Jason's baby.
3. Her hair is larger than her body.
4. She tells it like it is.
5. She's got the finest strut in town.
6. She can dance circles around anyone at Reggae Night - she is by far the best person to go out with on a Wednesday night!
7. Her theme song to life is "Rains down in Africa" by Toto . . . it doesn't get cooler than that
8. Her deep love and appreciation for the color pink
9. She is the most caring and compassionate friend
10. She is now the best person to go visit in Seattle!
Natasha, you are energetic, ambitious, considerate, thoughtful, organized, confident, courageous, kind, loyal, hilarious, and beautiful - We are going to miss you so much!
With Love,
Your AAI Family
Lover's Leap Day Three: Chasing Osman
The unfortunately irrevocable Dan Osman climbed the 400ft Bear's Reach at Lover's Leap in four minutes and 25 seconds. Let that settle for just a few minutes......................Bear's Reach (5.7 with a 5.9 variation finish) - Three Pitches - Trad Gear Anchors - All three ledApproach:Turn of Highway 50 onto Strawberry Drive next to the Strawberry Lodge. Drive up the road and turn left onto
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- July 17, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--On Wednesday, July 11th, the Mount Rainier speed record was broken. Justin Merle climbed from Paradise to the summit in a record 4 hours, 49 minutes and 35 seconds. To read more, click here and here.
--A number of news agencies are reporting that there may be one or more wolf packs in the Methow Valley near Twisp. Biologists indicate that if this is indeed true, the wolf pack will be the first resident pack of the endangered species in the state since 1930. To read more, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--The title of the London Daily Telegraph article says it all: Nude Climber Craze Tipped to Take over England. The subtitle is, "battling gravity on a number of levels, these naked climbers are demonstrating a new American craze tipped to take Britain by storm." Somebody apparently didn't do their homework. There clearly isn't a naked climbing craze in the United States. However, a calendar that features black and white images of climbers in the buff entitled Stone Nudes has been around for years.
WARNING: The links in the preceding post show what many people consider to be artistic naked images from the Stone Nudes Calendar. Please don't click on these if you find nudity offensive.
--This week the New York Times reported on an extreme sport in Europe that is growing in popularity. Rock jumping is the art of jumping from one rock tower to another. In many cases the span between such towers is in excess of ten feet. The consequences of missing a jump, even tied in to a rope, may be catastrophic. To read more, click here.
--Two Polish climbers recently completed the second complete traverse of Gasherbrum I (26,509') and Gasherbrum II (26,362'). Piotr Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor completed their link-up between June 18th and July 6th. This traverse was previously completed in 1984 by Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander. To read more, click here.
--An Italian team comprised of Karl Unterkircher, Walter Nones and Simon Kehrer, completed the second ascent Chongra Peak (22,402') in Pakistan, via a new route on the West Ridge. The team made their alpine style push on July 3rd which marks the first time that such a style was used on the peak. To read more, click here.
--On Wednesday, July 11th, the Mount Rainier speed record was broken. Justin Merle climbed from Paradise to the summit in a record 4 hours, 49 minutes and 35 seconds. To read more, click here and here.
--A number of news agencies are reporting that there may be one or more wolf packs in the Methow Valley near Twisp. Biologists indicate that if this is indeed true, the wolf pack will be the first resident pack of the endangered species in the state since 1930. To read more, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--The title of the London Daily Telegraph article says it all: Nude Climber Craze Tipped to Take over England. The subtitle is, "battling gravity on a number of levels, these naked climbers are demonstrating a new American craze tipped to take Britain by storm." Somebody apparently didn't do their homework. There clearly isn't a naked climbing craze in the United States. However, a calendar that features black and white images of climbers in the buff entitled Stone Nudes has been around for years.
WARNING: The links in the preceding post show what many people consider to be artistic naked images from the Stone Nudes Calendar. Please don't click on these if you find nudity offensive.
--This week the New York Times reported on an extreme sport in Europe that is growing in popularity. Rock jumping is the art of jumping from one rock tower to another. In many cases the span between such towers is in excess of ten feet. The consequences of missing a jump, even tied in to a rope, may be catastrophic. To read more, click here.
--Two Polish climbers recently completed the second complete traverse of Gasherbrum I (26,509') and Gasherbrum II (26,362'). Piotr Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor completed their link-up between June 18th and July 6th. This traverse was previously completed in 1984 by Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander. To read more, click here.
--An Italian team comprised of Karl Unterkircher, Walter Nones and Simon Kehrer, completed the second ascent Chongra Peak (22,402') in Pakistan, via a new route on the West Ridge. The team made their alpine style push on July 3rd which marks the first time that such a style was used on the peak. To read more, click here.
Conditions Report -- July 16, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The largest fire to strike the Southern Cascades is still growing. The Cold Springs fire has burned approximately 9 square miles of timber around Mount Adams in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest and on the Yakama Indian Reservation. To read more, click here.
--The Coleman-Deming Glacier continues to be in excellent shape. However, the trail up to the Heliotrope Ridge on the north side of Mount Baker is an absolute mess. The bridge is still out at the trailhead and climbers must use a log just downstream to cross the creek. It is likely that this will be fixed in the next couple of weeks. The trail itself is covered in blowdown. Downed trees, rootwads and other obstacles that are difficult to manage exist from the beginning to the end of the trail. Indeed, there are a number of areas where the damage is so bad that you must actually leave the trail and travel cross-country to avoid the worst of it. These cross-country sections are well-marked by orange flagging tape.
--The North Face of Mount Shuksan is in excellent shape. AAI guide Jeremy Ellison recently climbed the route and found soft snow, but good climbing conditions. He indicated that there was only one short section of terrain that might require two tools.
--The excellent weather this weekend led to many excellent ascents. Climbers made ascents up Forbidden Peak, Dragontail Peak, Mount Shuksan, Mount Buckner, and a one group climbed all the major peaks in the Liberty Bell group.
--It's late in the year for skiing, but there are still a lot of people getting after it. Mount Baker was skied this weekend, so was Mount Hood and Mount Rainier.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives. We currently have a party in Little Switzerland on the Pika Glacier.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The largest fire to strike the Southern Cascades is still growing. The Cold Springs fire has burned approximately 9 square miles of timber around Mount Adams in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest and on the Yakama Indian Reservation. To read more, click here.
--The Coleman-Deming Glacier continues to be in excellent shape. However, the trail up to the Heliotrope Ridge on the north side of Mount Baker is an absolute mess. The bridge is still out at the trailhead and climbers must use a log just downstream to cross the creek. It is likely that this will be fixed in the next couple of weeks. The trail itself is covered in blowdown. Downed trees, rootwads and other obstacles that are difficult to manage exist from the beginning to the end of the trail. Indeed, there are a number of areas where the damage is so bad that you must actually leave the trail and travel cross-country to avoid the worst of it. These cross-country sections are well-marked by orange flagging tape.
--The North Face of Mount Shuksan is in excellent shape. AAI guide Jeremy Ellison recently climbed the route and found soft snow, but good climbing conditions. He indicated that there was only one short section of terrain that might require two tools.
--The excellent weather this weekend led to many excellent ascents. Climbers made ascents up Forbidden Peak, Dragontail Peak, Mount Shuksan, Mount Buckner, and a one group climbed all the major peaks in the Liberty Bell group.
--It's late in the year for skiing, but there are still a lot of people getting after it. Mount Baker was skied this weekend, so was Mount Hood and Mount Rainier.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives. We currently have a party in Little Switzerland on the Pika Glacier.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)