Working as a mountain guide provides for a strange life. However, there are a few of us who participate in "normal" activities. There are a few of us who don't live out of a car. And indeed, there are a few of us who even have kids.
This blog is devoted to those wonderful children who are growing up with a mountain guide as a parent.
First we have a series of photos from the Kuhnleins. Peter Kuhnlein has been working for AAI since 2002. He no longer works for us full time, but does pick up trips here or there. In mid-June he successfully guided the Mountaineers Route on Mount Whitney. He and his wife Lisa run a photography studio in Anacortes. Their daughter Madelyn is 2 years and three months old. And they're expecting another one!
AAI Guide Joseph Anderson has two young boys. His older son, Jacob just finished kindergarten. His younger son, Elias, is two and a half. A number of the proceeding pictures are from a rock climbing trip to Leavenworth, Washington. In the second photo, Jacob is climbing Meat Grinder, a seriously sandbagged 5.10a.
AAI Guide Jason Martin has an 11 month-old daughter and a son on the way. Jason's daughter is already well traveled. In the proceeding photos she is in Yosemite National Park, Red Rock Canyon and Seattle. She has also been fortunate enough to visit Joshua Tree National Park, Flagstaff, and Albaqurquie.
In this last photo, Holly is posing at the Red Rock Rendezvous. She is holding up an AAI catalogue that is open to a page that features a photo of her daddy.
As stated above, both Jason's and Peter's wives are pregnant. AAI Guide Richard Riquelme's wife is also expecting. Rest assured, there will be more news on each of these upcoming additions to the AAI family.
Rain at Cathedral
I'm not a big fan of long drives and one-day climbing opportunities, so when I say that I'm a bit frustrated with the recent weather patterns here in New England, I'm saying this whole rain / occasional threat of thunder / periodic downpour BS is getting a bit old. Still, despite the constant threat of getting soaked and / or electrically shocked out of this world, Saturday was a productive day
Hot Time to Climb
For the first time this season the freezing level is rising above 14,500 feet. This means earlier starts for summit attempts. Get up and out of high camp so you're back before the mid-afternoon heat. The high pressure should be around all weekend and into the early part of next week. Groups of excited climbers were out enjoying their first tan of the season Saturday morning. Here is a photo of the sun rising over the Cowlitz. Notice the sun cups starting to form in the bottom of the photo. If you look closely you can see Camp Muir to the left of the climber's head lamp (Photo by Brian Scheele). Come take advantage of this great early summer weather.
New Beginner Rock Climbing Courses!
In order to address the demand for economical one day beginner level rock climbing courses in the Pacific Northwest, the American Alpine Institute is proud to present our new Intro to Rock Climbing course.
This course will be run at a scenic cragging area just outside of Anacortes, Washington. Mount Erie is an exceptional low land climbing destination with a wide array of beginner to intermediate level routes. Participants will revel in both the spectacular climbing there as well as in the phenomenal views.
We will be offering this course on the following dates:
July 12
July 26
August 9
August 23
September 6
September 20
To read more about this new program, click here. To read about all of our rock climbing programs, click here.
This course will be run at a scenic cragging area just outside of Anacortes, Washington. Mount Erie is an exceptional low land climbing destination with a wide array of beginner to intermediate level routes. Participants will revel in both the spectacular climbing there as well as in the phenomenal views.
We will be offering this course on the following dates:
July 12
July 26
August 9
August 23
September 6
September 20
To read more about this new program, click here. To read about all of our rock climbing programs, click here.
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- June 26, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--On Saturday a small group of strangers joined forces to search for the remains of three snowboarders that went missing near Crystal Mountain Ski Resort. The three men were swept away by an avalanche while on a backcountry snowboard tour in December. Due to deep snow and avalanche danger, body recovery efforts ceased months ago. Last week a post on turns-all-year.com resulted in the assembly of a body recovery expedition. Twelve people who only knew each other through the ski and snowboard oriented internet forum came together to find missing men. The team planned on a multi-day search effort, but found the bodies within a matter of hours. To read more, click here.
--The Squamish Mountain Festival will present a new award named for Squamish climbing pioneer Jim Baldwin to “commemorate the ground-breaking climbs of past generations while at the same time acknowledging the great climbs that are still happening out there today.” The festival will take place July 16-20th. To read more about the award, click here.
--A major tenant of Leave No Trace is to Respect Wildlife. Feeding or trying to pet wild animals often leads to the death of the animal. This week the Bellingham Herald reported on the tranqualization and removal of four black bears from the area. People gave the animals handouts until they became accustomed to humans and acted aggressively toward people if they didn't get food. To read more, click here.
ALASKA:
--AAI Guide Dawn Glanc finished her expedition to an unnamed and unclimbed peak in Alaska this week. The Big Expedition for Cancer Research ended their climb five hundred feet from the top of the mountain due to dangerous conditions. To read about their climb, click here. To read a new article about their expedition in the Bellingham Herald, click here.
--Both AAI Denali teams 7 and 8 are prepping to move to high camp at 17,000 feet. To read more of our dispatches, click here.
SIERRA:
--Nine teenagers and two adults went missing on an Outward Bound trip in the high Sierra just east of Fresno this week. Fresno County Search and Rescue teams were deployed yesterday when the Outward Bound group failed to meet an additional instructor at a predetermined meeting place. The team was outfitted with enough food and supplies to make it until June 27th. Luckily they were quickly located by Search and rescue professionals. To read more about this, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--An injured American hiker in the Bavarian Alps was able to signal a police helicopter with her sports bra. Twenty-four year old Jessica Bruinsma was lost for three days after being separated from her hiking companion and then suffering a fall. Bruinsma was injured and could not climb free, but she could reach a cable used by the logging company to move timber down the mountain. The young woman attached her sports bra to the cable and was thus able to attract the attention required to attain a rescue. To read more, click here.
--The Chinese are planning a major clean-up effort on the Tibetan side of Mount Everest next year. Over 40, 000 people have visited the mountain from that side and have left an estimated 120 tons of garbage. It is likely that this is a move to appease climbers who are still upset about the restrictions that were placed on the mountain due to the Olympic Torch relay that closed the Tibetan side of the mountain and placed severe restrictions on the Nepali side. To read more, click here.
--Omega Pacific has just released another warning about their link cams. If you own any of these cams, click here to see whether or not your cams have been recalled.
--Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper led a five man German team to a remote region on Baffin Island to put up a new 2,300 foot route. The team traveled approximately 100 miles northwest of the more commonly visited Sam Ford Fjord to potentially become the first climbers to visit the region. To read more about this ascent, click here.
--An exhibit on climbing at the Yosemite Museum just opened and will run until October 27th. The exhibit features the largest collection of Yosemite climbing photos an hardware ever assembled. To read more about this exhibit, click here.
--Bradford Washburn's camera is being launched into space. American Alpine Club member and astronaut John Grunsfeld contacted the AAC about bringing something of Washburn's into space as a remembrance to the famous mountaineering photographer and cartographer. To read more about this, click here.
--On Saturday a small group of strangers joined forces to search for the remains of three snowboarders that went missing near Crystal Mountain Ski Resort. The three men were swept away by an avalanche while on a backcountry snowboard tour in December. Due to deep snow and avalanche danger, body recovery efforts ceased months ago. Last week a post on turns-all-year.com resulted in the assembly of a body recovery expedition. Twelve people who only knew each other through the ski and snowboard oriented internet forum came together to find missing men. The team planned on a multi-day search effort, but found the bodies within a matter of hours. To read more, click here.
--The Squamish Mountain Festival will present a new award named for Squamish climbing pioneer Jim Baldwin to “commemorate the ground-breaking climbs of past generations while at the same time acknowledging the great climbs that are still happening out there today.” The festival will take place July 16-20th. To read more about the award, click here.
--A major tenant of Leave No Trace is to Respect Wildlife. Feeding or trying to pet wild animals often leads to the death of the animal. This week the Bellingham Herald reported on the tranqualization and removal of four black bears from the area. People gave the animals handouts until they became accustomed to humans and acted aggressively toward people if they didn't get food. To read more, click here.
ALASKA:
--AAI Guide Dawn Glanc finished her expedition to an unnamed and unclimbed peak in Alaska this week. The Big Expedition for Cancer Research ended their climb five hundred feet from the top of the mountain due to dangerous conditions. To read about their climb, click here. To read a new article about their expedition in the Bellingham Herald, click here.
--Both AAI Denali teams 7 and 8 are prepping to move to high camp at 17,000 feet. To read more of our dispatches, click here.
SIERRA:
--Nine teenagers and two adults went missing on an Outward Bound trip in the high Sierra just east of Fresno this week. Fresno County Search and Rescue teams were deployed yesterday when the Outward Bound group failed to meet an additional instructor at a predetermined meeting place. The team was outfitted with enough food and supplies to make it until June 27th. Luckily they were quickly located by Search and rescue professionals. To read more about this, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--An injured American hiker in the Bavarian Alps was able to signal a police helicopter with her sports bra. Twenty-four year old Jessica Bruinsma was lost for three days after being separated from her hiking companion and then suffering a fall. Bruinsma was injured and could not climb free, but she could reach a cable used by the logging company to move timber down the mountain. The young woman attached her sports bra to the cable and was thus able to attract the attention required to attain a rescue. To read more, click here.
--The Chinese are planning a major clean-up effort on the Tibetan side of Mount Everest next year. Over 40, 000 people have visited the mountain from that side and have left an estimated 120 tons of garbage. It is likely that this is a move to appease climbers who are still upset about the restrictions that were placed on the mountain due to the Olympic Torch relay that closed the Tibetan side of the mountain and placed severe restrictions on the Nepali side. To read more, click here.
--Omega Pacific has just released another warning about their link cams. If you own any of these cams, click here to see whether or not your cams have been recalled.
--Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper led a five man German team to a remote region on Baffin Island to put up a new 2,300 foot route. The team traveled approximately 100 miles northwest of the more commonly visited Sam Ford Fjord to potentially become the first climbers to visit the region. To read more about this ascent, click here.
--An exhibit on climbing at the Yosemite Museum just opened and will run until October 27th. The exhibit features the largest collection of Yosemite climbing photos an hardware ever assembled. To read more about this exhibit, click here.
--Bradford Washburn's camera is being launched into space. American Alpine Club member and astronaut John Grunsfeld contacted the AAC about bringing something of Washburn's into space as a remembrance to the famous mountaineering photographer and cartographer. To read more about this, click here.
Breaking News -- 11 Hikers Missing in the Sierras!
Nine teenagers and two adults are currently missing on an Outward Bound trip in the high Sierra just east of Fresno. Fresno County Search and Rescue teams were deployed yesterday when the Outward Bound group failed to meet an additional instructor at a predetermined meeting place. The team was outfitted with enough food and supplies to make it until June 27th. To see a video on this topic, click here. To read an article about this rescue effort, click here.
Conditions Report -- June 25, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--AAI Guide Joseph Anderson climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker last week. He found steeper and harder conditions than in the past. There is approximately eight feet of vertical ice at the start of the ice section of the climb. Conditions were somewhat brittle, but that could certainly change overnight.
--The bridge that accesses the north side of Mount Baker is out. A static line was left over the creek to facilitate a tyrolean traverse, but it is far from perfect. Some climbers might choose to access the mountain via the Director's Cut. The Director's Cut is a route that skiers use that climbs steeply out of the parking lot behind the outhouse.
--Road crews are stripping Mount Baker highway (SR 542) this week. Be aware that this could cause traffic slowdowns and increased time on approaches to Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, the Twin Sister Range, Ruth Mountain, Goat Mountain and Church Mountain. To read more, click here.
--Okay weather in the Pacific Northwest led to an okay number of ascents this weekend. A party climbed Little Tahoma, Northwest hardman Wayne Wallace made an ascent of Bonanza this weekend, and skiers checked out places like Mount Adams, Colchuck Glacier, and Washington Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--We currently have multiple teams on the mountain. Everybody has found good coverage of crevasses and easy movement on the lower Kahiltna.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--AAI Guide Paul Ivaska climbed Mount Whitney twice last week. He found firm conditions in the morning and soft snow in the afternoon.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
Yosemite Day Two: Zossima's Servant
"For the world says:'You have desires and so satisfy them, for you have the same rights as the most rich and powerful. Don't be afraid of satisfying them and even multiply your desires.' That is the modern doctrine of the world. In that they see freedom. And what follows from this right of multiplication of desires? In the rich, isolation and spiritual suicide; in the poor, envy and murder; for
June and July Climbing Events
NORTHWEST:
--July 9-12 -- Mount Rainier, WA -- Climb to Conquer SADS
--July 16-20 -- Squamish, BC -- Squamish Mountain Festival
SOUTHWEST:
--July 16 -- Las Vegas -- Las Vegas Climbers Liasion Council Meeting
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. For more info, click here.
--July 1 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Perfecto Premier
--July 9-13 -- Lander, WY -- International Climber's Festival
--July 15 -- NA -- Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition Deadline
--July 27 -- Allgäu Mountains, Germany -- UIAA Global Youth Summit: Hot rocks wild water camp in Germany
ACCESS FUND ADOPT-A-CRAG EVENTS:
--June 31 -- Colorado Springs, CO -- The Ute Valley Climbing Comp & Clean-Up, a TeamWorks Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the ROCK Climbing Center Junior Team, Front Range Climbing Company, the Mountain Chalet, and REI Colorado Springs. Lara Groshong, info@climbingtherock.com
Big Expedition Ends Attempt 500 Feet from Summit
AAI got the following email this afternoon from Dawn Glanc's expedition for cancer research:
- The metaphor for cancer research is complete. There are more unclimbed mountains to challenge.
- Late on Saturday, our team of Farmer, Dawn, Kevin and Bayard on the Big Expedition for Cancer Research determined that they had reached the safe limits of their attempt to climb one of Alaska’s unclimbed peaks. For 9 hours, they battled unstable snow, ice and rock to move within 500 vertical feet of the summit of Peak 8290 in Glacier Bay’s Fairweather Range. The two rope teams huddled at the high point and called an end to their attempt of the unclimbed mountain in the inaugural Big Expedition for Cancer Research.
- Lee Hartwell, president and director of the Hutchinson Center, when receiving the news said “"The climbers are to be congratulated for going so far under trying conditions but especially for putting safety first. It is a true reflection of a principle that governs the research we do in each of our clinical trials. We are proud of the team for their successful challenge of this unclimbed mountain."
- “Extremely hazardous” were the first two words out of Farmer’s mouth when he made the sat phone call back from base camp to Seattle. "We gave this mountain everything we had within the boundaries of safe, rational mountaineering standards. Sometimes the mountain sets the limits and we have to accept them,” he said.
- The team had been battling deteriorating weather conditions for three days. After establishing their 5100-foot base camp at the end of the week, they spent a day carrying a cache of climbing equipment top of a saddle at an elevation of 5500 feet for better access to their proposed route. They returned and began to plan their ascent of the Northeast Ridge of Peak 8290.
- It was determined that leaving early in the evening would help mitigate the daytime warming temperatures that were making the snow and ice very unstable. The National Park Service in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve was very supportive and helpful throughout the expedition relaying weather conditions to the team on a regular basis. The team left base camp on skis at 9:15 pm on Friday evening.
- They reached their cache in less than an hour and changed into climbing boots for the ascent. The team then traversed the flank of the ridge, working slowly and meticulously to avoid crevasses and other objective danger. They again took stock of the route in front of them and then moved up onto the Northeast Ridge as a group in two rope teams. Farmer and Dawn n one team and Kevin and Bayard on the other. Progress was slow. The snow was very soft and mushy and there was avalanche danger to avoid as they progressed.
- Above the 6000 foot level, they encountered unstable rock under the snow as they slowly ascended closer to the rock pyramid at the top of the mountain. What they realized as they crossed the 7000 foot level was that this mountain was “a big pile of rocks”. The Northeast ridge and it summit pyramid had looked majestic from a distance, but in reality “it was like stacks of china teetering in the wind”. Every step was a balancing act.
- At approximately 7800 feet, the rope team of Mahoney and Russell looked hard at the treacherous traverse over to the summit pyramid. It was a 70 degree slope covered with crusty, “sugary” snow. The area was unsupported and there was no protection if it broke away and slid down the mountain. The danger was greater to those below the lead climber because anything (ice or rock) that was punched out by a foot or an ice axe would fall on those following behind.
- After evaluating the treacherous situation, the two teams made the decision together that the summit was not to be. This was not a mountain that was ready to be conquered. After accepting that fact, “We were comfortable that this was the right decision. We had met the challenge and found it to be too daunting for us to return safely, if we advanced any further,” Farmer said.
- The descent to base camp was arduous as a new weather front moved in and it began to snow. The team reached base camp late Saturday afternoon and took stock of their encounter with the mountain. Two other less attractive unclimbed peaks nearby were discussed among the team members and it was determined that the same rock and ice conditions would be encountered there. Putting that option to rest, the group made the call back to headquarters in Seattle to say that the Big Expedition was coming home.
- Thousands of interested citizens have followed this journey for cancer research in the media and online. Success is in the advancement of the cause. The Big Expedition for Cancer Research is a concerted effort to draw the public closer to the enormity of this task. As the team returns, the quest for more unclimbed mountains continues.
Cancer Research Expedition Update
Late in the afternoon on Friday, AAI got the following report from Dawn Glanc's team in Alaska. Dawn was selected as one of four climbers to climb an unnamed and unclimbed peak in Alaska in order to raise awareness of cancer research.
- The four mountaineers attempting an unclimbed mountain in Glacier Bay National Park are in position to make a summit attempt in the next two days. “Our nemesis is the wet, slushy snow. When we’re not using our skis we’re “post-holing” (sinking in the snow) up to our knees. It’s very tough going,” said Farmer via satellite phone.
- They have established a base camp on the south side of a saddle in the Fairweather Range at about 5100 feet. “We have a beautiful view looking south across the snowfield. We can even see the water. We think it’s the ocean but we’re not certain,” Farmer reports.
- Yesterday, the team took their skis and some other equipment like bivy sacks (high altitude overnight sleeping bags) to a stash closer to Peak 8290 for the summit attempt. They plan to leave base camp at midnight tonight (Saturday, 12 am), pick up their skis and equipment and move across the northeast flank of the mountain. That should take them about two hours. They want to do as much climbing as they can during the night because that is as cool as the mountain will get in this weather.
- Their route will be direct up the northeast ridge of the mountain. The first 2000 feet of the ridge are in the snow. It is then that they encounter the final 1000 feet to the summit on a “perfect rock pyramid”, as they described it earlier in the week.
- Selected by an advisory committee made up of climbing legends, (Matt) Farmer, Dawn Glanc, Kevin Mahoney and Bayard Russell have come together as team to climb this unclimbed and unnamed peak in the name of Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. This national awareness project is a metaphor for the valuable work being done at the Hutchinson Center and in many other locations around the world to eliminate cancer as a cause of human suffering and death.
- We anxiously await their next report.
Breaking News -- Bridge Out on N. Side of Baker!
The log bridge used to cross the creek just out of the parking lot on the north side of Mount Baker is now gone. The bridge was seriously damaged by this year's heavy snowpack. Many parties used the damaged bridge, but it appears to have finally given way.
The Forest Service plans to repair the bridge after the snow on the road melts out. It is likely that snow will remain on the road to the parking lot for another two to three weeks.
--Jason D. Martin
The Forest Service plans to repair the bridge after the snow on the road melts out. It is likely that snow will remain on the road to the parking lot for another two to three weeks.
--Jason D. Martin
What's Up with Rock Shoes?
You've heard it before and you'll hear it again. It happens all over the country with a carbon copy of the same clueless individual at the climbing shop. "Dude, you need shoes that hurt," he tells you. "They should be at least two sizes too small for your feet!"
Two sizes too small...? Is there any truth to this?
The answer is yes and no. What the yahoo behind the counter forgot to do was to ask what you're going to do with your rock shoes. Are you going to boulder a lot? Are you trying to do hard sport climbs? Or are you headed out to do long multi-pitch trad routes? Each answer should lead the clerk to a different recommendation...not to the generic two sizes too small answer.
To understand rock shoes, one must understand that the shoes are tools. And different tools are constructed differently for a different job. There are two major styles of rock shoe, board-lasted and slip-lasted.
Board-Lasted
These are shoes that feel literally stiffer than the alternative. The midsole of these shoes are particularly stiff. This stiffness comes from an internal structure on the bottom of the shoe called a last. In this style of shoe the last is rigid, but it is important to note that this is not the case with all lasts.
Board-lasted models are excellent all-around shoes for two major reasons. First, they work equally well in all environments. They work well for edging and friction as well as for cracks. Second, they do not require a super tight fit to perform well. As a result, this style of shoe is recommended as an all day shoe for all levels of climbers and as a first shoe for beginners.
When it comes to fit, all shoes should be somewhat tight. I often buy board-lasted shoes that are a half size to a full size too small. A half size is good if you plan to wear them in the alpine with socks and a full size is good if your plan is to go go barefoot in them. Don't forget that your shoes will stretch and that if your toes are moving around it will be hard focus force where you want it to be.
Slip-Lasted
These shoes are designed for sensitivity. They are built around a sock-like last that allows a climber to focus his foot strength on the smallest of edges. Slip-lasted shoes have little support, require a tight fit and are not recommended for those who have not yet developed the prerequisite foot strength.
Slip-lasted shoes were designed primarily for bouldering and sport climbing. In these endeavors a climber might only wear his shoes for a very short period of time and thus a tight fit is more tolerable. This is the type of shoe that an individual might get in an extra tight size. One to one and a half sizes too small is good for sport climbing...and for those who engage in bouldering, they are among the only ones that should consider wearing shoes that are two sizes too small...
--Jason D. Martin
Two sizes too small...? Is there any truth to this?
The answer is yes and no. What the yahoo behind the counter forgot to do was to ask what you're going to do with your rock shoes. Are you going to boulder a lot? Are you trying to do hard sport climbs? Or are you headed out to do long multi-pitch trad routes? Each answer should lead the clerk to a different recommendation...not to the generic two sizes too small answer.
To understand rock shoes, one must understand that the shoes are tools. And different tools are constructed differently for a different job. There are two major styles of rock shoe, board-lasted and slip-lasted.
Board-Lasted
These are shoes that feel literally stiffer than the alternative. The midsole of these shoes are particularly stiff. This stiffness comes from an internal structure on the bottom of the shoe called a last. In this style of shoe the last is rigid, but it is important to note that this is not the case with all lasts.
Board-lasted models are excellent all-around shoes for two major reasons. First, they work equally well in all environments. They work well for edging and friction as well as for cracks. Second, they do not require a super tight fit to perform well. As a result, this style of shoe is recommended as an all day shoe for all levels of climbers and as a first shoe for beginners.
When it comes to fit, all shoes should be somewhat tight. I often buy board-lasted shoes that are a half size to a full size too small. A half size is good if you plan to wear them in the alpine with socks and a full size is good if your plan is to go go barefoot in them. Don't forget that your shoes will stretch and that if your toes are moving around it will be hard focus force where you want it to be.
Slip-Lasted
These shoes are designed for sensitivity. They are built around a sock-like last that allows a climber to focus his foot strength on the smallest of edges. Slip-lasted shoes have little support, require a tight fit and are not recommended for those who have not yet developed the prerequisite foot strength.
Slip-lasted shoes were designed primarily for bouldering and sport climbing. In these endeavors a climber might only wear his shoes for a very short period of time and thus a tight fit is more tolerable. This is the type of shoe that an individual might get in an extra tight size. One to one and a half sizes too small is good for sport climbing...and for those who engage in bouldering, they are among the only ones that should consider wearing shoes that are two sizes too small...
--Jason D. Martin
A Lazy (my ASS) Saturday Climbing with Friends
Went back to the chosspile known as Farley yesterday with a few more people. Why would I bring more people to such a crappy climbing area after seeing what little it had to offer the first time? To make everyone feel my pain, that's why."KITT", "Ratherbe", "Gecko", "Gammie", "GGF", and I got up early and were essentially the first people there. The "Wall of Early Morning Sun" was as advertised,
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!
It's time for another edition of the Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you Stoked! This weekend is a special one here in the North Cascades because it looks like the end of our cold, dreary Junuary (June and January combined for those who are unfamiliar with the term) weather. We have some fantastic videos to get you motivated to go out and play in the mountains!
Our first video we present to you features one of our favorite local climbing areas to the North, Squamish. Watch as Sonny Trotter finally nabs the first free ascent of Cobra Crack, an aesthetic 5.14 line up a beautiful granite face. Just watching this video gets my arms pumped! Check it out here.
The second video we have for you this weekend is actually a trailer for the climbing movie, "Beyond Gravity". The video features almost every type of climbing you can imagine. Watch as climbers offer insight into why they climb and what inspires them. Click here to watch.
The final video for all you weekend warriors is shot in a place you wouldn't want to stay for only a weekend. This video features the beautiful alpine scenery of the Alps. Get up close and personal with the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks here.
Our first video we present to you features one of our favorite local climbing areas to the North, Squamish. Watch as Sonny Trotter finally nabs the first free ascent of Cobra Crack, an aesthetic 5.14 line up a beautiful granite face. Just watching this video gets my arms pumped! Check it out here.
The second video we have for you this weekend is actually a trailer for the climbing movie, "Beyond Gravity". The video features almost every type of climbing you can imagine. Watch as climbers offer insight into why they climb and what inspires them. Click here to watch.
The final video for all you weekend warriors is shot in a place you wouldn't want to stay for only a weekend. This video features the beautiful alpine scenery of the Alps. Get up close and personal with the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks here.
Get to Know Your Guide: An interview with Ian McEleney
Every week, we take the reader into the interesting and ever-changing life of an American Alpine Institute guide. Every AAI guide is very experienced in alpine and rock climbing, and all have received professional training in advanced guiding techniques and rescue. Collectively they have one of the highest levels of wilderness first aid, avalanche, and Leave No Trace training among the world's international guide services.
This week, we interview Ian McEleney, one of our most recent hires. Ian is an extremely careful, diligent, and experienced climber and we are very excited about the upcoming trips that he is guiding.
Age: 28
Hometown: Anywhere
Upcoming courses with AAI: Alpinism 2, where we’ll get to climb some alpine rock and a glaciated peak. We get a piece from every part of the Cascades buffet.
A New Perspective on Guiding
What made you decide to become a guide? I’ve loved climbing from the day I started. I also really enjoy teaching, and my degree is in education. So guiding seemed like a logical job choice. The first time I visit an amazing place is always the best, because I’m seeing it with new eyes. Subsequent visits can be awesome, but they lack that first time magic. When I get the chance to bring someone to a place and they think it is amazing too, I get a little piece of the magic back.
What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
Everyone has a unique learning style, so being able to teach the same concept in multiple ways can really help people get it. Also, of course, patience.
What are your must-haves (e.g. favorite foods, equipment)?
Chocolate, a jacket with a hood, and a positive attitude.
A Climbing Life
How old were you when you first started climbing?
I led my first climb when I was 22. I already had a lot of backcountry experience backpacking. I had this crazy idea that it might be fun to pick two points on a map, draw a straight line connecting them, and travel that line. Of course, that would require some skills. With walking covered, vertical terrain seemed next on the list. I picked up some books on climbing and began the long and exciting task of teaching myself to climb. Knowing what I know now, some of the things I did then seem pretty crazy.
How do you stay in shape, and what are your favorite training activities?
Dave Mayville, a Joshua Tree guide and all around badass, says that the only exercise one needs to do for climbing are one legged squats, because climbing is all about footwork. I don’t really train per se, I just get out there and play as much as possible. There’s no training as effective as a good adventure.
Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
I don’t really have any climbing heroes, except for my climbing partners. Josh Harding, Brian Post, Eric Braswell, and Bernadette Regan are the people I’ve most enjoyed being tied to.
What are your other interests besides climbing?
I really like going to movies, eating ice cream, and sewing.
Where is your favorite place to travel?
Zion National Park in Utah and the Tetons are probably my favorite spots.
On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style.
Crack climbing is my favorite style of climbing. To many people, I think, crack climbing feels unnatural, but to me there is nothing so secure as getting a body part firmly wedged in the rock. I also like covering a lot of terrain.
What has been your most technically difficult climb?
Probably Touchstone, in Zion. It’s not the hardest free climbing I’ve done, but it has both free and aid climbing, it’s long, and the descent is not simple (especially in the dark). It’s also a lot of fun.
What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
I’d rather try something new than throw myself at the same difficult route or boulder problem over and over. This probably slows my progression to more difficult routes.
This week, we interview Ian McEleney, one of our most recent hires. Ian is an extremely careful, diligent, and experienced climber and we are very excited about the upcoming trips that he is guiding.
Age: 28
Hometown: Anywhere
Upcoming courses with AAI: Alpinism 2, where we’ll get to climb some alpine rock and a glaciated peak. We get a piece from every part of the Cascades buffet.
A New Perspective on Guiding
What made you decide to become a guide? I’ve loved climbing from the day I started. I also really enjoy teaching, and my degree is in education. So guiding seemed like a logical job choice. The first time I visit an amazing place is always the best, because I’m seeing it with new eyes. Subsequent visits can be awesome, but they lack that first time magic. When I get the chance to bring someone to a place and they think it is amazing too, I get a little piece of the magic back.
What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
Everyone has a unique learning style, so being able to teach the same concept in multiple ways can really help people get it. Also, of course, patience.
What are your must-haves (e.g. favorite foods, equipment)?
Chocolate, a jacket with a hood, and a positive attitude.
A Climbing Life
How old were you when you first started climbing?
I led my first climb when I was 22. I already had a lot of backcountry experience backpacking. I had this crazy idea that it might be fun to pick two points on a map, draw a straight line connecting them, and travel that line. Of course, that would require some skills. With walking covered, vertical terrain seemed next on the list. I picked up some books on climbing and began the long and exciting task of teaching myself to climb. Knowing what I know now, some of the things I did then seem pretty crazy.
How do you stay in shape, and what are your favorite training activities?
Dave Mayville, a Joshua Tree guide and all around badass, says that the only exercise one needs to do for climbing are one legged squats, because climbing is all about footwork. I don’t really train per se, I just get out there and play as much as possible. There’s no training as effective as a good adventure.
Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
I don’t really have any climbing heroes, except for my climbing partners. Josh Harding, Brian Post, Eric Braswell, and Bernadette Regan are the people I’ve most enjoyed being tied to.
What are your other interests besides climbing?
I really like going to movies, eating ice cream, and sewing.
Where is your favorite place to travel?
Zion National Park in Utah and the Tetons are probably my favorite spots.
On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style.
Crack climbing is my favorite style of climbing. To many people, I think, crack climbing feels unnatural, but to me there is nothing so secure as getting a body part firmly wedged in the rock. I also like covering a lot of terrain.
What has been your most technically difficult climb?
Probably Touchstone, in Zion. It’s not the hardest free climbing I’ve done, but it has both free and aid climbing, it’s long, and the descent is not simple (especially in the dark). It’s also a lot of fun.
What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
I’d rather try something new than throw myself at the same difficult route or boulder problem over and over. This probably slows my progression to more difficult routes.
Wigout: Benefit Event in Bellingham for Kim Carson
This Sunday, there will be a breast cancer benefit for AAI's long-time Arts and Graphic Design Manager, Kim Carson.
This show will feature Swamp Mama Johnson, a funky and bluesy band, as well as other well known artists in the community. Kim, the drummer for Swamp Mama, will be putting on a great show. Please come join us at the Wild Buffalo for a good time - and wigs suggested but not required!
Here's the info:
Sunday, June 22nd: 3 - 10pm
Seven Bands at the Wild Buffalo in Bellingham, WA
-- $20 Suggested Donation -- All proceeds to benefit Kim's recovery
For advance tickets:
http://www.wildbuffalo.net/
Wild Buffalo House of Music
208 W. Holly Bellingham, WA 98225
Can't be there but want to donate anyway?
Click Here -- DONATE MONEY TO KIM
This show will feature Swamp Mama Johnson, a funky and bluesy band, as well as other well known artists in the community. Kim, the drummer for Swamp Mama, will be putting on a great show. Please come join us at the Wild Buffalo for a good time - and wigs suggested but not required!
Here's the info:
Sunday, June 22nd: 3 - 10pm
Seven Bands at the Wild Buffalo in Bellingham, WA
-- $20 Suggested Donation -- All proceeds to benefit Kim's recovery
For advance tickets:
http://www.wildbuffalo.net/
Wild Buffalo House of Music
208 W. Holly Bellingham, WA 98225
Can't be there but want to donate anyway?
Click Here -- DONATE MONEY TO KIM
Route Updates
There are a number of route condition updates. Particularly, Disappointment Cleaver, Muir Snowfield, Gibraltar Ledges, Emmons Glacier, Fuhrer Finger, and a really fantastic and detailed report on Liberty Ridge.
As far as other major Rainier news, their isn't a ton to share. But if you're climbing the mountain soon, we'd love to get your trip report.
As far as other major Rainier news, their isn't a ton to share. But if you're climbing the mountain soon, we'd love to get your trip report.
Mont Blanc Climbed Under Difficult Conditions
AAI Guide Tim Connelly reports on one of the first successful climbs of France's 15,771-foot Mont Blanc this season:
Climber David Salesin of Seattle, with AAI’s Chamonix based guide Pete Mason, had a very successful trip on Mont Blanc, having been able to summit in a very small weather window. Bad weather has shut down the majority of climbing teams these past few weeks. It is absolutely pouring with rain outside right now, and when ever you get a glimpse up through the clouds you see fresh snow on the lower hillsides as well as the mountains. It was with these cold and snowy weather patterns in mind after arriving at Mont Blanc’s Gouter Hut that Pete and David came to the conclusion to then carry on to the summit that afternoon and evening rather than risk waiting for the traditional early morning start and getting weathered out.
It was long, cold, and grueling and a few hours after a fantastic sunset they arrived at the summit at around 11:30pm. Other teams that left the following morning at the regular time of 3:00am were not to reach the summit as the weather had by then moved in. Hats off to them and the tremendous effort they put into this.”
To view David's photos from the climb, follow this link: http://salesin.cs.washington.edu/Postcards/
Big Expedition for Cancer Research Dispatch
AAI Guide Dawn Glanc is currently on an expedition to raise awareness on cancer research. We just got this email from their expedition:
- Team Moves Across Icefield after meeting the “Visitor”
- On Monday, June 16, the four mountaineers on the Big Expedition for Cancer Research were on the Brady Icefield and picking up their pace toward base camp. Via satellite phone, Matt Farmer, who likes to be called Farmer, said that the team was in good shape and moving toward the Southeast corner of the icefield where they will get their first look at Peak 8290 from the ground.
- Since arriving at Reid Inlet on Saturday, the team has had two good days for travel. On Saturday, they moved all their gear approximately 1.5 miles up to the top of Reid Glacier. The terrain was too steep to use their sleds so they each had to make three round trips with only their packs to reach their first overnight camp.
- Not 5 minutes after they brought their last load to the campsite, the “Visitor” appeared. Remember the bear that the Park Service told them about? He poked his head up over the moraine not 50 feet away and just looked at them. The team grabbed every pot, pan and noisemaker they could find and began beating, banging and screaming at the top of their lungs. Mr. Bear just looked on in amazement. Fortunately, in this remote location, the “Visitor” hasn’t really seen any humans so he probably was watching the team make each carry during the day wondering what in the world they were doing. Regardless, after observing for awhile, he sauntered off and was not seen again.
- Great precautions were taken that first night. No fire. No cooking. Only cold food for dinner. The food was buried and every crumb picked up. There was surely one eye open at all times that night.
- Sunday, Day Two on the glacier, was a glorious and sunny. There was still some elevation to deal with so the team still was not moving at top speed. In spite of that, they covered almost three miles and enjoyed a great day in the Fairweather Range.
- Thus far, the Big Expedition has gone according to plan…except for the “Visitor”. Everyone is healthy. The gear is working and they are bearing down on their base camp location. More to come.
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- June 19, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--There was another tragic fatality on a northwest volcano this week. Twenty-five year-old Hyun Seo of Bothell was killed by a falling boulder on the Squak Glacier of Mount Baker on Friday. Reports indicate that the man was standing on a ledge at the 6,500 foot level when a boulder sheered off and crushed him. It took rescue crews two days to retrieve the body. This accident comes directly on the heels of a fatality earlier last week on Mount Rainier. These two deaths mark an incredibly unfortunate and tragic start to the high season in the mountains. To read more about the accident on Mount Baker, click here.
--The Seattle Post Intelligencer ran an article on waterfalls in the Pacific Northwest this week. The massive snowmelt in the Cascades will lead to unusually spectacular waterfalls this season. To read more, click here.
ALASKA:
--Two young backpackers were lost in Denali National Park for nearly a week. Twenty-five year-old Abby Flantz and 23 year-old Erica Nelson were reported missing on Saturday when they did not show up for work. Friends reported that they were going to do an overnight backpacking trip and return on Friday. Search and Rescue personnel staged a massive effort, hunting for the missing women in a one hundred square mile zone surrounding the Savage River. After a call yesterday from one of the women, rescuers were able to determine where they were. A short time later the women were rescued and returned to their families. To read more, click here.
--AAI Denali Team 5 is safe and off the mountain after a successful summit on June 15. AAI Denali Team 6 moved up to the 17,000 foot camp today and are planning to stage a summit attempt in the next few days. AAI Denali Team 7 is working to move gear up to the 11,000 foot camp today. To read more dispatches, click here.
--A new route was climbed in the Ruth Gorge by a pair of strong Norwegians on a small unnamed peak (Peak 747) between Mt. Bradley (9,100') and Mt. Dickey (9,545'). Kuriositeten -- which means "rarity" in Norwegian -- clocks in at a solid AI5, M3+. To read about this new route, click here.
--A second new route was climbed in Alaska by the American duo of Zack Smith and Josh Wharton. This new ice and mixed line on Kichatna Spire sends an ice couloir on the north end of the peak, just to the left of The Voice of Unreason (700m, ED2 M7 WI5 A1, Isaac-Owens-Strong, 2005). To read more about this climb, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Omega Pacific is requesting that Link Cam owners inspect their Link Cams for a potential defect recently discovered. To read more, click here.
--Are you a "real alpinist?" Take this quiz and find out.
--A documentary film about Thomas and Alexander Huber was just released to a limited number of theaters in the United States. The Huber brothers are a well-known duo in the climbing world. They have been responsible for a number of high end ascents in Yosemite and throughout the world. To read a review of this new film, click here.
--A new treatment for severe frostbite is showing a great deal of promise and may ultimately be able to save damaged fingers and toes. To read more, click here.
--The search for the multimillionaire adventurer, Steve Fossett, is set to resume in remote parts of California and Nevada. Authorities believe that following a spring thaw it might be easier to spot the man's missing plane. To read more, click here.
--Climbing writer and guide Freddie Wilkinson wrote a rant against those who climbed Everest this season on the liberal blog the Huffingtonpost. It was transcribed on supertopos.com where there have been a number of discussions on the merits of his original piece of writing. To read the supertopo version, click here. To see the original article, click here.
--There was another tragic fatality on a northwest volcano this week. Twenty-five year-old Hyun Seo of Bothell was killed by a falling boulder on the Squak Glacier of Mount Baker on Friday. Reports indicate that the man was standing on a ledge at the 6,500 foot level when a boulder sheered off and crushed him. It took rescue crews two days to retrieve the body. This accident comes directly on the heels of a fatality earlier last week on Mount Rainier. These two deaths mark an incredibly unfortunate and tragic start to the high season in the mountains. To read more about the accident on Mount Baker, click here.
--The Seattle Post Intelligencer ran an article on waterfalls in the Pacific Northwest this week. The massive snowmelt in the Cascades will lead to unusually spectacular waterfalls this season. To read more, click here.
ALASKA:
--Two young backpackers were lost in Denali National Park for nearly a week. Twenty-five year-old Abby Flantz and 23 year-old Erica Nelson were reported missing on Saturday when they did not show up for work. Friends reported that they were going to do an overnight backpacking trip and return on Friday. Search and Rescue personnel staged a massive effort, hunting for the missing women in a one hundred square mile zone surrounding the Savage River. After a call yesterday from one of the women, rescuers were able to determine where they were. A short time later the women were rescued and returned to their families. To read more, click here.
--AAI Denali Team 5 is safe and off the mountain after a successful summit on June 15. AAI Denali Team 6 moved up to the 17,000 foot camp today and are planning to stage a summit attempt in the next few days. AAI Denali Team 7 is working to move gear up to the 11,000 foot camp today. To read more dispatches, click here.
--A new route was climbed in the Ruth Gorge by a pair of strong Norwegians on a small unnamed peak (Peak 747) between Mt. Bradley (9,100') and Mt. Dickey (9,545'). Kuriositeten -- which means "rarity" in Norwegian -- clocks in at a solid AI5, M3+. To read about this new route, click here.
--A second new route was climbed in Alaska by the American duo of Zack Smith and Josh Wharton. This new ice and mixed line on Kichatna Spire sends an ice couloir on the north end of the peak, just to the left of The Voice of Unreason (700m, ED2 M7 WI5 A1, Isaac-Owens-Strong, 2005). To read more about this climb, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Omega Pacific is requesting that Link Cam owners inspect their Link Cams for a potential defect recently discovered. To read more, click here.
--Are you a "real alpinist?" Take this quiz and find out.
--A documentary film about Thomas and Alexander Huber was just released to a limited number of theaters in the United States. The Huber brothers are a well-known duo in the climbing world. They have been responsible for a number of high end ascents in Yosemite and throughout the world. To read a review of this new film, click here.
--A new treatment for severe frostbite is showing a great deal of promise and may ultimately be able to save damaged fingers and toes. To read more, click here.
--The search for the multimillionaire adventurer, Steve Fossett, is set to resume in remote parts of California and Nevada. Authorities believe that following a spring thaw it might be easier to spot the man's missing plane. To read more, click here.
--Climbing writer and guide Freddie Wilkinson wrote a rant against those who climbed Everest this season on the liberal blog the Huffingtonpost. It was transcribed on supertopos.com where there have been a number of discussions on the merits of his original piece of writing. To read the supertopo version, click here. To see the original article, click here.
Update from Rescue Operation in Denali National Park
AAI just received this email from Denali National Park:
- Update on Status of Abby Flantz and Erica Nelson
- Both women were reported to be uninjured and healthy when Erica Nelson called her mother’s cell phone at approximately 9:15 a.m. today, while the Nelson and Flantz family members were being briefed on today’s planned search activities. The young women were asked to move to a highly visible area, remain in that location, make themselves highly visible and signal any helicopters that flew overhead.
- Two helicopters were immediately dispatched to search the area where the two women believed themselves to be, and to pick them up. At this time they have not been located, and there has been no other cell phone contact since the initial call.
- The new area being searched is north of Mount Healy, approximately five miles west of the Parks Highway. The area is a mix of national park and state-owned lands.
- An additional helicopter and a fixed wing are now searching this new area, and ten ground searchers and two dog teams are being inserted at this time. Search managers are making arrangements to move ground searchers from areas of the previous search into this new area throughout the afternoon if needed.
Bolivia Expedition - Huayna Potosi Summit
AAI currently has a team in Bolivia, and they are close to finishing up their expedition. Read below for AAI Guide Andrew Wexler's most recent dispatch and to view his breathtaking photos of Huayna Potosi. For more dispatches from Bolivia, Denali, and around the world, check out our dispatch webpage.
"Hello again from Bolivia! The 1st Bolivia Expedition of 2008 has returned to La Paz after a successful ascent of Huayna Potosi. Here is a brief re-cap and some highlights from the past few weeks."
"Early in the morning on Monday, June 16, the team left the Huayna Potosi High Camp and headed for the summit. Despite some unsettled weather in the area, the skies remained clear and the temps were pleasant. We rolled out of camp on two rope teams and quickly made our way up to the flat basin below the French Face (Campamiento Argentino). From here, the rope team comprised of Tim, Johann, and myself climbed over a short, steep bergschrund and emerged into the day's first rays of sun. Ahhhhhhh... Unfortunately, at about this time, we received a call on the radio that the other rope team (comprised of Jaime, Peter and Michael), were not feeling 'top-banana.' Despite some hemming and hawing, they made the wise decision to listen to their bodies and return to camp. That left the overall success of the climb in the hands of Tim, Johann, and myself."
"We gathered our strength in the rising sun and vowed (our first vow) not to return without a summit scalp! A few hours later, after much flat footing, front-pointing and duck walking, we reached the summit of Huayna Potosi herself. We sat there speechless for a few minutes, (due mainly to the hypoxia, but also owing to the overwhelming beauty of nature), before starting down. Less than two hours later we were back in camp. Michael, Jaime and Peter were feeling better and we vowed (our second vow) to celebrate the Team success in La Paz. Of course, by the time we got back to the city, we were all too knackered to do much of anything and so vowed (our third vow) to celebrate tonight!"
"During our two and a half weeks together, we had some good laughs, climbed some great routes and ate too many excellent meals to remember. Tim Jung's comment (while listening to the IPOD in the dining tent), 'Are Snoop and Dre the same?' was probably the highlight of the trip . Michael Hennon's laid back composure and constant humor throughout his evening bout with Montezuma was formidable. Peter Wiesenekker's evolution from cramponing neophyte to Pequeno Alpamayo Summiteer was impressive. And Johann Melillo's list of 'First Maltese Ascents' was astounding. Well done!"
"That's it from me. Jaime, Johann and Peter will be travelling to Illimani tomorrow morning for a final show down. We wish them the best of luck!"
"Hello again from Bolivia! The 1st Bolivia Expedition of 2008 has returned to La Paz after a successful ascent of Huayna Potosi. Here is a brief re-cap and some highlights from the past few weeks."
"Early in the morning on Monday, June 16, the team left the Huayna Potosi High Camp and headed for the summit. Despite some unsettled weather in the area, the skies remained clear and the temps were pleasant. We rolled out of camp on two rope teams and quickly made our way up to the flat basin below the French Face (Campamiento Argentino). From here, the rope team comprised of Tim, Johann, and myself climbed over a short, steep bergschrund and emerged into the day's first rays of sun. Ahhhhhhh... Unfortunately, at about this time, we received a call on the radio that the other rope team (comprised of Jaime, Peter and Michael), were not feeling 'top-banana.' Despite some hemming and hawing, they made the wise decision to listen to their bodies and return to camp. That left the overall success of the climb in the hands of Tim, Johann, and myself."
"We gathered our strength in the rising sun and vowed (our first vow) not to return without a summit scalp! A few hours later, after much flat footing, front-pointing and duck walking, we reached the summit of Huayna Potosi herself. We sat there speechless for a few minutes, (due mainly to the hypoxia, but also owing to the overwhelming beauty of nature), before starting down. Less than two hours later we were back in camp. Michael, Jaime and Peter were feeling better and we vowed (our second vow) to celebrate the Team success in La Paz. Of course, by the time we got back to the city, we were all too knackered to do much of anything and so vowed (our third vow) to celebrate tonight!"
Huayna Potosi in the distance
"During our two and a half weeks together, we had some good laughs, climbed some great routes and ate too many excellent meals to remember. Tim Jung's comment (while listening to the IPOD in the dining tent), 'Are Snoop and Dre the same?' was probably the highlight of the trip . Michael Hennon's laid back composure and constant humor throughout his evening bout with Montezuma was formidable. Peter Wiesenekker's evolution from cramponing neophyte to Pequeno Alpamayo Summiteer was impressive. And Johann Melillo's list of 'First Maltese Ascents' was astounding. Well done!"
A Sunset view of Huayna Potosi from the Condoriri Valley
"That's it from me. Jaime, Johann and Peter will be travelling to Illimani tomorrow morning for a final show down. We wish them the best of luck!"
The Summit Team
Breaking News -- Lost Backpackers Found!
AAI just received the following email from Denali National Park:
- Abby Flantz and Erica Nelson have been found, alive and well. More details will be provided shortly as they become available. The families are here, and the young women will shortly be reunited with them.
More Searchers Arrive to Look for Missing Backpackers in Denali National Park
The following email just arrived in the AAI inbox:
- More Searchers Arriving to Assist with Search for Missing Backpackers Park Medical Response Needs Temporarily Divert Incident Resources
- Today’s combined efforts of eleven ground teams and four aircraft failed to yield any new clues on the location of missing backpackers Abby Flantz and Erica Nelson. The teams were tasked with more thoroughly investigating specific segments within the search area, those sections that search managers feel are the most likely locations of the two hikers. More than 60 people were involved in today’s search effort, including more than 40 air and ground searchers and the overhead personnel who provide support and assistance to them.
- Five new teams will be utilized in Wednesday’s efforts, in addition to the teams who have been involved in the previous days’ search. These resources include a team from the Anchorage based Alaska Mountain Rescue Group, and search and rescue teams from Grand Teton, Mount Rainier, Sequoia-Kings Canyon, and Yosemite National Parks. Two fresh dog teams from the Alaska Search and Rescue Dog organization in Anchorage will replace the PAWS teams from Fairbanks in tomorrow’s search efforts.
- With the influx of fresh new personnel, searcher numbers will swell to approximately 60 people. The additional staffing will allow search managers to increase the size of the teams in high priority segments, which will allow them to search more thoroughly. Searchers will be placed on the ground for the first time in some higher elevations of the search area, sections that have previously only been searched by air. These segments have steep, rocky and snow-covered sections. There are a total of 105 people assigned to Wednesday’s search activities.
- The air search will continue with up to five helicopters and the park’s fixed-wing aircraft. The high-altitude Lama is available, but will be needed for a medical evacuation from the 14,200 foot camp on Mount McKinley as soon as weather conditions allow. A helicopter from the Alaska Fire Service Tanana Zone will be added to the three that were utilized in Tuesday’s operations.
- During the past two days, helicopters assigned to the search have been temporarily diverted to assist with two medical incidents in the park. On Monday, June 16 an incident helicopter was needed to transport a 54 year old man experiencing medical problems from the Eielson Visitor Center to the park airstrip, where he was taken by ambulance to the Canyon Clinic. Another helicopter was needed today, June 17 to evacuate a 53-year old man who had a possible broken leg two miles up the trail on Mount Healy. He was flown to the Healy airstrip and transported to the Tri-Valley Clinic.
- The National Park Service search managers would like to speak with anyone who was hiking in the Savage River drainage between Thursday, June 12 and Sunday, June 15. Anyone who may have information to share is asked to call (907) 683-9648.
Conditions Report -- June 18, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The Glacier Creek Road on the north side of Mount Baker still has snow covering the last mile and a half. The bridge at the start of the trail is damaged and it is recommended that only one person cross it at a time. On Friday, a team was avalanched off the Roman Wall. Nobody was injured and conditions have firmed up since then. Many teams are finding snow-free camps at the top of the Hogsback Ridge on the north side. Numerous parties summitted over the weekend under perfect conditions. Few crevasses are currently open on the north side of the mountain.
--The perfect conditions over the weekend enticed many parties into climbing and skiing. Read about a climb of the Serpentine Arete on Dragontail Peak here. Read about an ascent of Prusik Peak here. A team did a high circumnavigation of Mount Baker on skis this weekend. A team skied the south face of Jack Mountain. And lastly a team skied Eldorado mountain this weekend.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--We currently have multiple teams on the mountain. Everybody has found good coverage of crevasses and easy movement on the lower Kahiltna.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--AAI Guide Paul Ivaska has toured the Sierras over the last week or so. Generally snow conditions have been firm in the morning, softening up in the afternoon. He found this to be especially true in the Mount Whitney area on the Mountaineers Route.
--In the Palisade Area, patchy snow starts at treeline. North facing slopes are holding all of their snow. Paul climbed the Venetian Blind (IV 5.7) and found the need for crampons and an ice axe on both the approach and the descent. He and his partner then climbed the U-Notch Couloir from Third Lake. They found it easier to camp at Third Lake then to go higher because the snow conditions were so good. The U-Notch had mashed potato snow with sporadic patches of blue ice on the route.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
Yosemite Day One: Swan Slabs Prepares Us In More Ways Than One
We awoke on east-coast time, a good three hours before any sane person on west-coast time should have been slapping the alarm clock off. "PBR" and "Ratherbe" had slept well, as did I, but they had the advantage of brains that allowed them to sleep right up until the point when we all rolled out of bed. The chill in the air was surprising to me. I knew we were up in the mountains, but I didn't
Search Continues for Missing Backpackers
AAI got the following email this morning from Denali National Park:
- No Sign of Missing Backpackers – Air and Ground Search to Continue on Tuesday.
- Additional search teams on the ground, including two dog teams, and continued aerial searching with three aircraft failed to yield any sign of missing backpackers Abby Flantz and Erica Nelson during today’s search efforts. The day’s operations ended at 7:00 p.m. in order for crews and pilots to get adequate rest before the resumption of the search effort on Tuesday. Over twenty members of the ground search teams are camping overnight near the Lower Savage ranger cabin, an historic ranger patrol cabin located on the northern boundary of the park, approximately four miles downstream from the Denali Park Road. A total of 51 people were involved in today’s operations.
- Tomorrow’s search efforts will include additional ground search teams. They include members of Matanuska Search and Rescue from Wasilla, Alaska Mountain Rescue Group from Anchorage, and a team of whitewater river experts from the Denali Outdoor Center in Healy. The air search will continue with three helicopters and the park’s fixed-wing aircraft. The helicopters are being provided by Air Logistics from Fairbanks, Maritime Helicopters, inc. of Homer, as well as Helo One from the Alaska State Troopers. The high-altitude Lama helicopter is on a mandatory one day rest period.
- The search area of approximately 100 square miles will remain the same for Tuesday’s activities. Teams are being tasked with investigating search segments to the highest degree possible, which is difficult, slow work due to the rugged and heavily vegetated terrain.
- The National Park Service search managers would like to speak with anyone who was hiking in the Savage River drainage between Thursday, June 12 and Sunday, June 15. Anyone who may have information to share is asked to call (907) 683-9648.
Belay Glove Confession
A few years ago I was in a Nomad Ventures, the climbing shop near Joshua Tree National Park, when a question arose.
"Do you use these?" my partner asked.
I looked over and saw him holding a pair of hand jammies. Hand jammies are a pair of gimmicky gloves that supposedly take the place of hand tape. They cover the back of your hand with sticky rubber in order to protect the skin from the sharp innards of a crack
A -- Hand jammies are dorky.
B -- Gunther wears hand jammies.C -- Gunther is a dork.
My partner turned to the clerk behind the counter and asked the same question, "do you wear these?"
The clerk was a little less political in his answer. "No," he snorted. "I don't want to get beat up."
Sometime later, something happened to me. I didn't take up hand jammies. No, instead I started to wear something a bit worse. I started to wear belay gloves.
When you go out to the crag you'll notice that belay gloves are incredibly uncommon. The reason that they are uncommon is because most people don't see the need for them. Nobody really rappels or lowers anyone fast enough to burn their hands.
I don't wear them to avoid hand burns. I wear them to avoid the aluminum that inevitably gets transferred from the carabiners to the rope and then subsequently to my hands. Over the last few seasons I've found it harder and harder to wash the tiny fragments of metal out of the creases in my hands and as such it always looked like my hands were dirty.
I worked with a guide last season who was concerned that Alzheimer's disease comes from aluminum. As a result he always wore gloves whenever he handled a rope.
A short time after the guide told me about this, we had a baby. My wife felt that when I got home from work I should play with the baby, which I gladly did. But she also felt that the black smudges I left all over the baby's clothes were a bit much.
And so, I began to wear belay gloves. Everybody made fun of me, but I still wore them...
A -- Belay gloves are dorky.
B -- Jason wear's belay gloves.
C -- Jason is a dork.
(Jason and his daughter Holly, discussing the difference between hand jammies and baby jammies in Joshua Tree National Park.)
--Jason D. Martin
June and July Climbing Events
NORTHWEST:
--July 16-20 -- Squamish, BC -- Squamish Mountain Festival
SOUTHWEST:
--June 18 -- Las Vegas -- Las Vegas Climbers Liasion Council Meeting
--July 16 -- Las Vegas -- Las Vegas Climbers Liasion Council Meeting
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. For more info, click here.
--July 9-13 -- Lander, WY -- International Climber's Festival
--July 15 -- NA -- Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition Deadline
ACCESS FUND ADOPT-A-CRAG EVENTS:
--June 17 -- Sandstone, MN -- Robinson Park Clean-Up, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Minnesota Climbers Association and the city of Sandstone. Glenn Burns, glenn.burns@gmail.com
--June 18 -- Taylor Falls, MN -- The Taylors Falls Clean-Up an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the Minnesota Climbers Association, Mid-West Mountaineering, and Minnesota DNR. Glenn Burns, glenn.burns@gmail.com
--June 23 -- Franklin Gorge, WV -- The 2nd Annual Franklin Traildaze & Crankfest, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Punishers, Inc. Starts at 3pm May 23rd ending through Midnight May 26th. Camping and Cabins available, more information available at: www.rockclimbing.com. Michael Gray, roninorne@rockclimbing.com
--June 31 -- Colorado Springs, CO -- The Ute Valley Climbing Comp & Clean-Up, a TeamWorks Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the ROCK Climbing Center Junior Team, Front Range Climbing Company, the Mountain Chalet, and REI Colorado Springs. Lara Groshong, info@climbingtherock.com
Stark Yosemite: My Initial Thoughts
Note: "Orangekayak" is now named "PBR"An early morning flight from Boston touched "Ratherbe" and I down in Oakland an hour ahead of "PBR"'s flight from Dallas. We were stuffed in the car and on our way by early afternoon with the hopes of getting at least a toprope in before the sun set that evening. But the road to Yosemite is slower than expected, and we were too tired to do much of anything
The Worst Climbing Movies Ever!
For a non-climber, climbing is a foreign thing. All of the participants are adrenaline junkies looking for their next fix. This perception in conjunction with a serious lack of knowledge about climbing culture have come together over the years to provide us with some very bad climbing films.
You might think that there is little to no value in a poorly executed climbing film, but you would be horribly wrong. The value in these films is wholly unintentional. Most people can suspend their disbelief under certain circumstances. If there is something unrealistic here or there, we usually choose to ignore it. But in some films, it is utterly impossible to ignore the problems. They get it so wrong, yet play it so straight, that the films actually become quite comic.
The worst offenders take poor plot-lines, poor dialogue and incredibly ludicrous climbing scenarios and successfully -- though unintentionally -- weave them into a cinematic mess that is so unbelievable they seem surreal. Three films stand out as the worst of the worst. And indeed it is because these are the worst offenders that they are so fun to watch.
Cliffhanger (1993)
Synopsis: A high end climber and search and rescue expert -- who lost a friend in a tragic, but totally avoidable, climbing accident -- is forced to assist a group of gun-wielding thieves in their quest to find boxes of money scattered throughout the Rocky Mountains. Oh yeah, as this is a Sylvester Stallone movie, he does this mostly in the snow wearing a t-shirt. And sometimes he's even topless...
Cardboard characters, racial and ethnic stereotypes, and a script that is so unrealistic that there isn't a moment of the film where one doesn't laugh at the stupidity of the characters are all components of the vast majority of the Stallone films. This one certainly does not stand out as being different or of a higher quality.
Cliffhanger does have a few didactic moments for climbers. We learn that it is really not a good idea to shoot a machine gun at the cornice that you're standing beneath. We learn that we should be terrified if the stuffed animal in our backpack falls. And of course we learn that you shouldn't mess around with Rambo.
Vertical Limit (2000)
Synopsis: A high end climber and photographer -- who lost his dad in a tragic, but totally avoidable, climbing accident -- must rescue his sister from a crevasse as well as from a crazed climber. Oh yeah, and he's supposed to do it with bottles of nitroglycerin. On K2.
A great deal has been said about this film in the climbing community. Indeed, it may be possible that this was the most talked about "bad" climbing film of all time. Why? It's just way over the top.
In the opening scene, somehow all kinds of cams and pins rip out of a desert tower leading to an incredibly unrealistic accident. Somehow they mixed up the party scene in Joshua Tree National Park with base camp on K2. And somehow, they thought that a mountain climbing rescue drama needed a few things to spice it up. It needed a villainous character who murders people high on the mountain. It needed characters wandering around on the glacier with full racks of shiny cams with no rock climbing in sight. And clearly to make any climbing movie realistic, you need to have unstable nitroglycerin.
In the opening scene, somehow all kinds of cams and pins rip out of a desert tower leading to an incredibly unrealistic accident. Somehow they mixed up the party scene in Joshua Tree National Park with base camp on K2. And somehow, they thought that a mountain climbing rescue drama needed a few things to spice it up. It needed a villainous character who murders people high on the mountain. It needed characters wandering around on the glacier with full racks of shiny cams with no rock climbing in sight. And clearly to make any climbing movie realistic, you need to have unstable nitroglycerin.
A lot of people like to talk about leading man, Chris O'Donnell, and his radical running leap over a chasm high on K2. My question is, have you ever run in crampons? Have you ever run at altitude? Were that me, I would have probably tripped over my crampons while hyperventilating, thus falling down to the bottom of the bottomless chasm.
I know that I'm not the only one who noticed another problem with O'Donnell's portrayal of a world-class climber. Every time he talks to his sister (Robin Tunney) throughout the film it looks like he's trying to seduce her. It appears that O'Donnell only knows how to play one thing while working with a female counterpart on screen and in light of these two character's relationship, it's a little bit icky.
Take it to the Limit (2000)
Synopsis: A bad boy from the city -- who was in a tragic, but totally avoidable accident with a stolen car -- hangs out with a bunch of inept climbers who appear to have near-terminal cases of ADHD. Oh yeah, he does this to pick up a girl.
Famous B movie producer Roger Corman was behind this strange adventure. And ironically, even though it is a B movie, this film probably has the best script of the three. The problem is that with little to no knowledge of climbing culture or climbing itself, an okay script turns into an exercise in the ludicrous.
There are a few scenes that stick out as being over the top. There's the time when the hero and his girlfriend get stuck on a cliff approximately a hundred feet up a third class pitch with no way to get down. Then there's the time when they go "climbing" on a water tower; only to leave the hero stuck on top because he doesn't have climbing shoes. And then there's the time that they go toproping, but they give each other so many high fives when it's suggested that you literally wonder what they were smoking.
Perhaps the best part of the entire film is the rap. A rap, you say? Yes, a rap. Every time they go climbing the rap starts. It goes something like this:
- Take it to the limit, the limit, the limit
- Take it to the limit, the limit, the limit
- Take it to the limit, the limit, the limit
Ironically, outside the climbing world, these three movies no longer have a life of their own. Clearly, they weren't just bad climbing movies. They were just plain bad. For better or worse, we're responsible for keeping these movies alive. I suppose I can live with that...
The trailers for each of these three movies may be found at the following links:
Cliffhanger.
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